2007 5.3 year compatibility

[solli5pack]

In GM’s schematics and breakout diagrams for purchasing parts, what is the component they list as the BCM?

 

[solli5pack]

In GM’s schematics and breakout diagrams for purchasing parts, what is the component they list as the BCM?

I had one go bad on my 03 Impala and the horn would randomly start blasting and not turn off.

 

[j91z28d1]

what are we talking about? ecm engine controller module. bcm body control module. tcm transmission control module?

if you wanna know what the bcm does, pick up a higher end scanner and open the body control module active tests. it does stuff on the body, like the horn, headlights, tail lights and door lock type stuff. as far as I know, no domestic based tuning software has even tried to crack the bcm. it's very annoying. while the import world hacks the bcm, the abs and everything is adjustable.

we act like if you adjust the traction control you're going to kill a bus load of nuns. it's silly but nothing in the bcm needs adjustments for a small increase in cubic inch

 

[petethepug]

Thank you solli5pack for info on GM BCM’s

 

[Doubeleive]

There's different types of glade plug-ins that 'disable' V4 mode, by somehow tricking the ecm into thinking that one or more of the conditions that would prevent V4 mode happens to be in effect.
The plug-in that tricks the TCM into 5speed mode would cost some MpGs.
Not sure that's the most clever way of avoiding V4 mode, long-term.

What IS clever about those plug-ins, is that while the plug-in is plugged in,
How does one get any realtime ecm / tcm data? How does one look at what the plug-in is actually doing?

(petethepug, V4 mode is tuned out of the ENGINE control module, not the body control module, even if other modules can say something to the engine control module to prevent V4 mode.)

you connect a obd splitter to monitor via the 2nd Y port

 

[tjoyce81]

352k with AFM is better than a lot without AFM lol impressive!

Years ago I blocked off the oil pressure relief in the oil pan, because the spring in it was failing. That increased the oil pressure and gave a more consistant pressure. The afm worked up until this issue. So, pretty sure this - along with 3000 oil and filter changes - contributed to the longevity.

I also run Quaker State full synthetic ultimate durability dexos 1 gen 3 - the one with the gold label.
It's the best on the market - but that's a serious pandoras box that I will leave closed...lol

 

[Doubeleive]

In GM’s schematics and breakout diagrams for purchasing parts, what is the component they list as the BCM?

BCM: body control module
ECM: engine control module
two completely different things
bcm is right under the dash, ecm is in the engine bay/compartment
they communicate to each other but are seperate things
both are somewhat universal in that they can be swapped from vehicle to vehicle (of same platform) as long as the correct vin data is programmed into them.
there may be differences of where say a escalade bcm and a lt tahoe bcm may not be interchangeable depending on a variety of things.

 

[Marky Dissod]

I also run Quaker State full synthetic ultimate durability dexos 1 gen 3 - the one with the gold label.
It's the best on the market - but that's a serious pandora's box that I will leave closed ...

I'll open it.
bobistheoilguy?
540ratblog?
I typically prefer Group IV full synthetics by Quaker State, Valvoline, Pennzoil Platinum (but NOT Ultra), Mobil1 Advanced, all 5W30 or 0W30.
Does Quaker State still make Ultimate Durability? Thought it was discontinued.

 

[iamdub]

Im pretty sure my 2007 Tahoe LMG, vin0, engine cam broke (or cam chain broke?). Just shut off on highway, threw a code P0340. Removed cam sensor, stuck my finger in, rotated the engine by hand, and couldn't feel or see the reluctor wheel spinning. Verified by looking down the oil fill, rocker arms not moving.
So, with 352000 miles - completely stock - AFM operational until this - I am pulling the motor.

I plan on deleting the AFM, and installing the proper kit too do so - cam, block off plate, lifters, ecm delete, etc. etc.

Question I have - IF the engine I have cannot be used, what years can I use to replace the one in my 07 Tahoe?
Is there any 5.3s that do not have the AFM/DOD setup that will work?

The cam sensor is in the front cover, and the knock sensors are on the side of the block (easy accessed).
I am not looking for any type of performance upgrades (other than the afm delete) or larger displacement - just a job that can be easily done - because its getting cold and I'm doing this on the street lol.

Thanks for any help

A lot has been said already and your questions here have been answered. But, unless there is major internal damage, your LMG can be reused. At 352K miles, I would absolutely do a full rebuild, upgrading where desired (including deleting AFM). I wouldn't just replace the cam or timing chain or whatever broke. It's sure to need bearings and rings. This would be the longer route so if you wanna get it back in operation ASAP, swap in another engine, either a good used or rebuilt one. You can do whatever mods to it before you swap it in.

Dropping in a 6.0 or 6.2 to have a plug-and-play (or near it) upgrade would be fun, but you gotta consider the transmission. It's adequate behind the LMG, but will be stressed behind the HP/TQ of an upgraded engine.

 

[Fless]

In GM’s schematics and breakout diagrams for purchasing parts, what is the component they list as the BCM?

In the GMT800 Upfitter Guide ground diagram, it's initialized as the TBC (apparently Truck Body Control):

 

[iamdub]

Years ago I blocked off the oil pressure relief in the oil pan, because the spring in it was failing. That increased the oil pressure and gave a more consistant pressure. The afm worked up until this issue.

@swathdiver, get a load of this!

 

[Marky Dissod]

Dropping in a 6.0L or 6.2L to have a plug-and-play (or near it) upgrade would be fun, but you gotta consider the transmission.
It's adequate behind the LMG, but will be stressed behind the HP/TQ of an upgraded engine.

Depends on how you drive it, and whether or not the ecm & tcm are reprogrammed properly to provide increased line pressure to hold the 4L60E together.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

The AFM software that is usually sold as a AFM defeat or disabler can simply trick the trans from going into overdrive keeping the AFM from turning on. All the troublesome mechanicals are still in the motor so if you’re referring to tuned off, its really not.

You’d have to have a tuner write a program to tune it out. That’d be far easier than using the 6.0L BCM and adding all the existing trucks features to the donor motor profile. After the AFM is tuned out of the BCM, then you need the 6.0L motor that never had AFM or the existing 5.7L motor with all its AFM mechanicals removed.

@petethepug Gotcha, I have a mechanically AFM deleted 5.3 that has AFM tuned out with a Black Bear tune. Just wondering if I got bored enough if I could drop a 6.0 in or if I needed to do anything else.

 

[iamdub]

Depends on how you drive it, and whether or not the ecm & tcm are reprogrammed properly to provide increased line pressure to hold the 4L60E together.

Sure. But why swap in 50 (at least) more HP/TQ just to throttle and/or tune it down to worn 5.3 power levels? I was basing my comment on GM's advertised ratings for the 4L60E, which, in this case would only apply if his had been rebuilt to proper OEM specs. Cranking up the line pressure is only a small and specific solution. That damned sun shell still has its limit.

With how I run mine, I'm convinced my trans has been rebuilt or replaced. Or I'm just still lucky for the time being.

 

[Marky Dissod]

... why swap in 50 (at least) more HP/TQ, just to throttle and / or tune it down to worn 5.3L power levels?
I was basing my comment on GM's advertised ratings for the 4L60E, which, in this case would only apply if his had been rebuilt to proper OEM specs.
Cranking up the line pressure is only a small and specific solution. That damned sun shell still has its limit.

With how I run mine, I'm convinced my trans has been rebuilt or replaced. Or I'm just still lucky for the time being.

Never said to detune the 6.0L.
Between cranking up the line pressures, carefully editing the shift strategy tables, and not being a leadfooted riceboi, the only things left to worry about are:
if that 4L60E has not been rebuilt in the last 5 years (NOT 50), and/or if the axle gears are 3.42 or less.

 

[donjetman]

Im pretty sure my 2007 Tahoe LMG, vin0, engine cam broke (or cam chain broke?). Just shut off on highway, threw a code P0340. Removed cam sensor, stuck my finger in, rotated the engine by hand, and couldn't feel or see the reluctor wheel spinning. Verified by looking down the oil fill, rocker arms not moving.
So, with 352000 miles - completely stock - AFM operational until this - I am pulling the motor.

I plan on deleting the AFM, and installing the proper kit too do so - cam, block off plate, lifters, ecm delete, etc. etc.

Question I have - IF the engine I have cannot be used, what years can I use to replace the one in my 07 Tahoe?
Is there any 5.3s that do not have the AFM/DOD setup that will work?

The cam sensor is in the front cover, and the knock sensors are on the side of the block (easy accessed).
I am not looking for any type of performance upgrades (other than the afm delete) or larger displacement - just a job that can be easily done - because its getting cold and I'm doing this on the street lol.

Thanks for any help

I've often thought if our 2007 6.2 L92 gave up I'd find a 2010-2014 4.8 L20 to replace it. We have no need for the L92 power and would like to run 87 octane with its lower compression.
L20 doesn't have AFM, does have VVT(good), is FlexFuel compatible(good), and an iron block(good).
I think we could plug & play this swap with a tune, and keep our existing exhaust, wire harness, ecm, tcm, bcm, 6L80, etc.
If power was lacking I'd install a turbo kit .

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018...ormance-bore-stroke-cylinder-heads-cam-specs/

 

[petethepug]

Oh my gugg, a 4.8L in a Denali would be like my daughter’s 01 S10 with its 2.2L L43 120hp I-4 that doesn’t get to that 120 hp until it’s at 5000 rpm.

No lane changes or pulling into traffic unless you’re aware you’ll accelerate as fast as a 60’s VW Bus. It’d probably be faster with the 4.8L connected to a propeller at the back vs the drive train.

Ahhh, sigh of relief. I’ve seen the NNBS ECM vs BCM discussions in the past as a lurker. The last one I saw was a dude who emphatically insisted both were an interchangeable term for 07-14. I’m happy to now say NOPE.

I love pictures and part numbers.

ECM …

BCM

 

[iamdub]

Never said to detune the 6.0L.
Between cranking up the line pressures, carefully editing the shift strategy tables, and not being a leadfooted riceboi, the only things left to worry about are:
if that 4L60E has not been rebuilt in the last 5 years (NOT 50), and/or if the axle gears are 3.42 or less.

I gotcha. I read "...and whether or not the ecm & tcm are reprogrammed properly..." as the ECM being tuned to protect the trans (like retarded timing/extra Torque Management) and the TCM (actually all the same in this generation) adjusted to have higher line pressure.

 

[strutaeng]

I've often thought if our 2007 6.2 L92 gave up I'd find a 2010-2014 4.8 L20 to replace it. We have no need for the L92 power and would like to run 87 octane with its lower compression.
L20 doesn't have AFM, does have VVT(good), is FlexFuel compatible(good), and an iron block(good).
I think we could plug & play this swap with a tune, and keep our existing exhaust, wire harness, ecm, tcm, bcm, 6L80, etc.
If power was lacking I'd install a turbo kit .

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018...ormance-bore-stroke-cylinder-heads-cam-specs/

I was kinda wondering the same after looking around due to this thread and OP's question.

L20 iron block and piecing together like a stroker kit, keeping it NA. I think I've seen 3.905" bore & 4.00" stroker kits, which is a 383(?) Should have plenty of torque for a large truck or towing. Core prices on 4.8 always seem to be the best bargains because everyone is after the larger displacements.

I'm building an iron block 6.0 right now. Pretty stock-ish. My oldest son came in the garage and he was asking me some questions, so I was explaining to him how engines work, using the engine on the stand as a working display. He's 12 but lately been interested in mechanical stuff with all sorts of questions (some of which I actually don't have answers to!). Anyways, at the end I told him that this hobby is pretty expensive, especially if you go into aftermarket stuff...I wish I could have built a stroker, but in reality, I'm barely going to be able to put this thing together in stock form, LoL.

So, yes, still plenty of potential on the "little" 4.8 LS

 

[Marky Dissod]

I've often thought if our 2007 6.2L L92 gave up I'd find a 2010-2014 4.8L L20 to replace it.
We have no need for the L92 power and would like to run 87 octane with its lower compression.
L20 doesn't have AFM, does have VVT (good), is FlexFuel compatible (good), and an iron block (good).
I think we could plug & play this swap with a tune, and keep our existing exhaust, wire harness, ecm, tcm, bcm, 6L80, etc.
If power was lacking I'd install a turbo kit .

4.8L is like a 5.3L from 3500RpM to 5500RpM. Under 3500RpM, it's even weaker - more like a 4.3L V6.

Everything you said, but instead of 4.8L ... 6.0L.

Every L98, L76, and L77 is tuned by GM for 87 octane.
If you don't like aluminum blocks, there are plenty of 6.0L iron blocks - just don't see why you wouldn't want to lose some weight, and if you don't need 6.2L power, you likely won't need an iron block either.

When my L59 dies, whether 5.3L or 6.0L, I'm going with an aluminum block to lose a lil bit of weight.