i decided a while back that I wanted footwell lighting.
So I ordered from superbrightleds.com
Qty Product/Options Price/Ea
2 WFLS-CW30-BK 50cm[19.7in] Cool White 13.95
You can search for that product code, or go
here.
I don't plan on getting these wet, but they're waterproof so maybe they are a little bit more sturdy than the non-w/p? They are also designed so you can cut them every third LED and rewire them.
Then I went to autozone and radioshack, and got some electrical stuff.
- Butt Connector
- Ring Connector
- Roll of 18GA Wire
- On-Off-On Switch
- Crimp Splices
Here's a simple diagram of the wiring bundle I made.
I measured twice, added 5 or so inches to every measurement of wire, and connected everything together as noted.
The switch is On-Off-On, which means that with the switch to the left end, it connects the left post to the middle post. When the switch is centered, nothing is connected, essentially. When the switch is to the right, the right post is connected to the middle.
If you visualize the switch not being in the circuit, you have 3 separate circuits. With every circuit, the black/negative wires from the Led strips are spliced and run to the bolt on the firewall, as a ground.
Circuit 1 is courtesy lighting. The tap into the courtesy power under the dash is connected to the Y connecting the red/positives on the led strips. The led strips come on when you unlocked the car, open a door, press the courtesy lighting switch, or anything else that would turn the overhead/map/dome lights on in the car. They turn off at the same times at the overheads as well.
Circuit 2 is everything off. The led strips do not come on, no matter what the state of the car or ignition.
Circuit 3 is constant on. The power wire tapped behind the cigarette lighter runs to the Y connecting the red/positives on the led strips. The led strips are powered on all the time, whether the car is locked or unlocked or the ignition is on accessory or on. Always on.
Now, running all that through the switch gives you flexibility to have the lights on, off, or with courtesy at any time you like. The switch is "hidden" in my dash, in the back of the cubby under the radio.
I know some of you purists think that soldering is the only way to go, but I am terrible at soldering! SO, I used the connectors I listed to make clean connections that satisfy me, and shrinkwrapped every connection, except the spliced ones.
I then ran the strips up under the footwell molding, and used small clear zip ties to hold them in place. I didn't notice any light loss from using the ties. I read about some people having problems with the adhesive melting on the backs of the strips, so I didn't even bother.
One other thing, I cut the strips in half at one of the marks, and used half strips for the front footwells. I'll add onto the circuit and add in the other halves for the back seat later! I'm also thinking about perhaps throwing some under the step bars or back bumper.
Right now, it's working perfectly, and I'm satisfied with it!
This is the passenger side.
By the way, I think my courtesy power splice only works for a certain year range of vehicles, but I'm not sure which.
I basically followed the wire bundle down the A post, and found the Molex connector it ran to, and then used a multimeter to find 12V when dome lights were on, and 0V when they were off. Tapped that wire, and ba-da-boom-ba-da-bing.
Ask any questions, I'm happy to help.
Thanks for the write up on the Aux Output. That's pretty cool 
