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Dantheman1540
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Didn't want no oil getting by duhh
2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
- Thread starter Dantheman1540
- Start date
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Didn't want no oil getting by duhh
I take back my compliment on how fast you got that thing back together. It doesn’t count if you totally screw it up.
randeez
Full Access Member
fair enough
If I could only figure how to do that next time I do a rear main. That’s the seal that a guy never wants to leak again.
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
It should count even more because I installed double seals which takes longerI take back my compliment on how fast you got that thing back together. It doesn’t count if you totally screw it up.
Not even sure I ordered straight from TSP which is usually fast but they only gave me FEDEX home as a shipping option so I'm guessing 3 days.
Yeah it takes most people half as long to do something wrong. I have to give you some accolades for this. It takes some kind of special talent to take twice as long and still f*ck it all up.It should count even more because I installed double seals which takes longer
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Nope, they aren't even here till tomorrow I think.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I was just making conversation. I don't like crickets in this thread...
So tomorrow about noon, you'll be doing donuts.
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
I wish! It bugs me not having it up and running, I'm so used to having all the storage space of a full-size SUV that I have the entire access cab of my taco filled and my main welding toolbox is strapped down in the bed. In the Tahoe, it all sits nicely in the back and is easy to get to.
Krajniak
TYF Newbie
the Rotella t6 is for desiel engines correct? do you run that in your gas engine? my brother inlaw says thats what he uses in his yukon but wasnt sure if its ok to run in gas engine.
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
I never had any issues with it and have run it in a lot of stuff in the past, it's just a little thick for winter use. Although I think the low oil pressure when cold issue was likely an old oil pick-up tube o ring.
Krajniak
TYF Newbie
ok cool thanks i ordered 2 gallons and a new wick filter for my up coming oil change
iamdub
Full Access Member
All Rotellas are for diesel engines except for the somewhat new Rotella Gas Truck. Diesel engine oils have more zinc in them which, allegedly, isn't good for catalytic converters. I suspect the Gas Truck version of Rotella is similar to their diesel formula but with no zinc or maybe just a minimal, safe level of zinc. I don't have cats so it's no problem and I even add zinc and phosphorous with Lucas ZDDP additive.
Considering the environment diesel engine oil has to operate in, it's extremely (and I dare say excessively) robust in a gas engine. My oil is still very translucent on the dipstick after 5,000 miles. I don't baby my ride, either:
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Dantheman1540
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It’s alive again and running good although it definitely needs tuning. I’m a total idiot and did indeed put two different kinds of valve seals in it which the top sixteen pretty well got destroyed. I got them swapped out and slapped back together with a few hiccups along the way.
First, 150psi is not enough shop air to hold both valves up vs two 160# springs. So I finally learned why an old man once told me to use my Peter as much as I can before I get old, because pushing a rope just ain’t fun. I ended up putting a rope in the cylinder turning it to top dead center and using the piston to hold the valves.
Second, when you use the piston to hold the valves there’s a little bit of give with the rope meaning you have to push the spring further down to get the keepers off and in doing so it bends the arp rocker studs.
Third, the permatex thread sealer works well as a loctite and the tiny t10/12 Allen head on the studs will round out when you try to back the stud out enough to put the spring compressor tool on.
Forth, buy an extra set of keepers because them thangs be going errewhere. I had to run across town to a Vato Zone after one disappeared on me.
Lastly, an exhaust leak can sound like internal engine damage. I had a strange v band leak at the top of the band where the headers meet the Ypipe and it sounded like a bottom end issue. I pulled the valve covers to find everything looked great then crawled under the engine with it running and swear I heard noise in the oil pan, I was about to grab a stethoscope when I found the v band leak.
Whatever’s after lastly, I did an oil and filter change and found minimal stuff in the filter or magnetic plug. I did however find a ton of stuff under the valve covers and I’m fairly confident nothing went much further than that.
First, 150psi is not enough shop air to hold both valves up vs two 160# springs. So I finally learned why an old man once told me to use my Peter as much as I can before I get old, because pushing a rope just ain’t fun
. I ended up putting a rope in the cylinder turning it to top dead center and using the piston to hold the valves.Second, when you use the piston to hold the valves there’s a little bit of give with the rope meaning you have to push the spring further down to get the keepers off and in doing so it bends the arp rocker studs.
Third, the permatex thread sealer works well as a loctite and the tiny t10/12 Allen head on the studs will round out when you try to back the stud out enough to put the spring compressor tool on.
Forth, buy an extra set of keepers because them thangs be going errewhere. I had to run across town to a Vato Zone after one disappeared on me.
Lastly, an exhaust leak can sound like internal engine damage. I had a strange v band leak at the top of the band where the headers meet the Ypipe and it sounded like a bottom end issue. I pulled the valve covers to find everything looked great then crawled under the engine with it running and swear I heard noise in the oil pan, I was about to grab a stethoscope when I found the v band leak.
Whatever’s after lastly, I did an oil and filter change and found minimal stuff in the filter or magnetic plug. I did however find a ton of stuff under the valve covers and I’m fairly confident nothing went much further than that.
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Did you find pieces of those valve seals in there? As far as the rope in the cylinders, meh. I didn’t use it. Just put the piston at TDC and when you remove the keepers just grab the valve stem and slowly lower it onto the piston, it only drops 1/4” or so and it’s slow since the seals are holding it from moving fast. When it’s time to reinstall it, just pull it up and it will stay with new seals. If it drops a bit because the spring hits it just pull it back up.
I’m thinking that was a great lesson in slowing down and putting the crack pipe away when doing valve springs lol. I didn’t lose a single keeper between 2 trucks but I put new hardened ones in. I could have used the originals if needed. Glad you got it all sorted out. You got lucky.
I’m thinking that was a great lesson in slowing down and putting the crack pipe away when doing valve springs lol. I didn’t lose a single keeper between 2 trucks but I put new hardened ones in. I could have used the originals if needed. Glad you got it all sorted out. You got lucky.
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Dantheman1540
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Definitely got lucky! Dropping the keeper was annoying but I’m genuinely awful at holding onto things so I kinda expected it. The new ones are Melling VL760s so hopefully they are okay I bought all that auto zone had for future spares lol.
Were you using a dab of grease on them to help hold ‘em in place? I use little bit of it but you gotta be careful to not use too much or the keeper disappears into it. Just a bit on the end of a small screwdriver, then touch it to the inside of the keeper. Really works good especially holding the first one in place while you put the second one on.
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Dantheman1540
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I did not use grease until I lost the one, I was on a roll and had the passenger side done in about an hour and a half. Went to the driver side and decided to start on #7 and that’s when I dropped one. At that point I was starving and getting a little shaky which didn’t help. Taco Bell and using tacky transmission assembly grease kept me in the fight after that.
