2003 z71 tahoe

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ncalvo

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Next projects to knock out in the next couple..
Minor patching on the passenger rocker with a cover
2500hd conversion new front bumper/bumper pad/grille, may get some black foglights
tint the windshield and rear hatch glass
clay bar/polish/wax

not in a rush for these next ones but have them on the radar for later this year or next..
new gm exhaust manifolds, gaskets, bolts.. I have two broken bolts.. going to have a shop do it.. may have them do motor mounts at the same time
new maf sensor, starter, oil pan gasket, pick up tube o ring, oil level sensor, crankshaft sensor
I got a nylon fuel line kit off ebay, will replace the original lines and also new fuel pump
Replace the remaining brake lines from the kit I have
 

Scott in AZ

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With those Esky corner vents and those tails, combined with that rear glass, I had to do a double take because I thought I was looking at an S10 Blazer for a second.
View attachment 395151
View attachment 395152

See the resemblance? Lol!
Those back rear corner vent louvers.…. I have one that’s cracked on my 2001 Yukon SLT. Does anyone have an extra passenger side rear cover trim vent for sale? Or know a good source? How do I remove them? Thanks in advance.
 

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ncalvo

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Those back rear corner vent louvers.…. I have one that’s cracked on my 2001 Yukon SLT. Does anyone have an extra passenger side rear cover trim vent for sale? Or know a good source? How do I remove them? Thanks in advance.
I have both my original vent covers if you were interested in them. $20 plus cost of shipping.
 

Scott in AZ

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Sure, I'll Zelle you $20 plus fair shipping, sent you a DM, pic would be great, any tips on removing / replacing? Thanks a lot.
 

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They're called appliqués. This guy shows how they come off and where the clips are, he starts the removal around 2:30 into it. Using a plastic trim removal tool will help, since they do take some persuasion. I'd recommend letting yours warm up in the sun for a bit before doing any prying. The audio is pretty low, so be ready to turn it up.


Here's the back side of the Esky piece, they're in the same exact place as the Tahoe's. The circles show the plastic clips on one side and the metal clip on the other; the arrow shows the hole at the top, after the screw is removed as shown in the video.

Esky applique clips.jpg
 
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555hp

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I have both my original vent covers if you were interested in them. $20 plus cost of shipping.
Is Scott doesn't take them, them pks add me as a back up.

I have the Surburban version of yours (2003, Z71) and decided to give it a major makeover, though maybe not as much as yours. I am very interested in your factory sub replacement (box size and how you got everything to fit) and how hard is was to replace the fram isolators.

I'm trying to keep most things factory original (OEM radio, 17 inch wheels( but will do many of the other upgrades you did (E?efans are my next project).
 
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Is Scott doesn't take them, them pks add me as a back up.

I have the Surburban version of yours (2003, Z71) and decided to give it a major makeover, though maybe not as much as yours. I am very interested in your factory sub replacement (box size and how you got everything to fit) and how hard is was to replace the fram isolators.

I'm trying to keep most things factory original (OEM radio, 17 inch wheels( but will do many of the other upgrades you did (E?efans are my next project).
Took the seats out, and the console out, gutted the inside of the console from factory amp and hacked away at the frame.
I grabbed an 8" sub and calculated minimum volume for the box, used cardboard to build a mockup that would fit, and then made it out of MDF.
There isn't sound isolators there isn't room, but the box is wrapped in sound carpet cloth and it sits on carpet, the console frame almost hugs it for support. It's legit and solid but not 100% pretty.
 

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Ncalvo’s rear corner vent louver appliqués showed up and he was true - they are in great shape. I cleaned them up with Meguiar’s cleaner wax and a toothbrush, buffed them out, and the result was great. I will end up using his on the other corner too.

You don’t have to remove the lift gate piston to do this job but I will probably replace the lift gate pistons when I do the other side. (Anybody got a recommendation for lift gate pistons? I’ll probably just use OEM Stabilus).

Turns out the rear corner vent appliqués are functional - they vent cabin air out the back. (Makes me wonder about half-blocking them to keep the conditioned air inside in the hot Arizona summer….). I used single-sided foam tape to supplement the existing foam gasket installed around the clips. Wire to wire time was under an hour and that included the toothbrush treatment and a deep clean on the normally-covered body panel under the functional vent appliqué! Good project, fixed a problem I’ve lived with for years, but this would be a good clean-up project even if replacing is not needed.
 

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Scott in AZ

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After I removed the old rear corner vent louver I can actually see another rubber internal vent louver under it that passes into the cabin through the rear pillar and behind the trim panel. It seems like this is an air flow path through this speaker grill out to daylight that will flow pretty good when the truck is moving down the road. I should have taken a picture of the body panel under the rear corner vent louver to show the internal vent louver but I’m almost certain that is what the internal and external rear corner vent louver system is for.
 

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Fless

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You don’t have to remove the lift gate piston to do this job but I will probably replace the lift gate pistons when I do the other side. (Anybody got a recommendation for lift gate pistons? I’ll probably just use OEM Stabilus).

Strongarm brand. I used #4557 for the liftgate and #4185 for the glass struts. Now I have to be careful to be able to back up quickly when I pull the latch.
 
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ncalvo

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Ncalvo’s rear corner vent louver appliqués showed up and he was true - they are in great shape. I cleaned them up with Meguiar’s cleaner wax and a toothbrush, buffed them out, and the result was great. I will end up using his on the other corner too.

You don’t have to remove the lift gate piston to do this job but I will probably replace the lift gate pistons when I do the other side. (Anybody got a recommendation for lift gate pistons? I’ll probably just use OEM Stabilus).

Turns out the rear corner vent appliqués are functional - they vent cabin air out the back. (Makes me wonder about half-blocking them to keep the conditioned air inside in the hot Arizona summer….). I used single-sided foam tape to supplement the existing foam gasket installed around the clips. Wire to wire time was under an hour and that included the toothbrush treatment and a deep clean on the normally-covered body panel under the functional vent appliqué! Good project, fixed a problem I’ve lived with for years, but this would be a good clean-up project even if replacing is not needed.
I bought a cheap pair off amazon maybe $20 or 30 just look for some with good reviews, they won't last forever but mine are going on 5 yrs.
If you replace the lift gate struts and then want the same results for your hatch glass like I did... be cautious replacing the struts for your glass... I would recommend against it.
Inspect your hinges, as they are simply molded into the plastic and are weak, the new struts will add much more force to them. My hinges broke shortly after replacing them. My friend gave me his hatch glass that he repaired the hinges on, and at that point I took the struts out and stopped using the glass.
See earlier posts in this thread where I permanently fixed the weak point recently and put the upgraded hatch glass in.



Below is pic of the hinge my buddy repaired.
20230510_102246.jpg
 

Sam Harris

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I bought a cheap pair off amazon maybe $20 or 30 just look for some with good reviews, they won't last forever but mine are going on 5 yrs.
If you replace the lift gate struts and then want the same results for your hatch glass like I did... be cautious replacing the struts for your glass... I would recommend against it.
Inspect your hinges, as they are simply molded into the plastic and are weak, the new struts will add much more force to them. My hinges broke shortly after replacing them. My friend gave me his hatch glass that he repaired the hinges on, and at that point I took the struts out and stopped using the glass.
See earlier posts in this thread where I permanently fixed the weak point recently and put the upgraded hatch glass in.



Below is pic of the hinge my buddy repaired.View attachment 398915
Actually, as @Rocket Man pointed out in another thread, the hinges are indeed glued onto the glass (I was under the same assumption as you). With that said, I have decided not to replace my glass struts (did the lift gate yesterday), as I rarely use the glass, and would rather not take the chance of detaching them from the glass..

Post in thread 'What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?'
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...s-gmt800-tahoe-yukon-today.12502/post-1779257
 
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She's mounted, only the top brackets are bolted in.
I have to drill new holes on the outside brackets 1.5" higher and get two nuts to throw in there. Also need to make a 1.5" spacer and grab two longer bolts for the inside then all 6 mounting points are good to go.
New black led foglights on the way.


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Pics of the finished conversion. All bolts are in, I could have done something different than spacers in the center but they are acceptable to me like they are. Foglights are in.
Next up having a shop replace my exhaust manifolds and engine mounts next week with my parts, I have two broken bolts.
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