08 Yukon Projector Retrofit Issue

[HACK BLOCK]

I think I grounded it to the brace that connects the rad support to the fender

 

[Doubeleive]

Yes, I'm using the morimoto harness so power is fed directly from the battery. The morimoto harness doesn't have two separate relays. It has a "motocontrol" module. Here is what i'm using:

http://www.morimotohid.com/mopar-h13.html

I was originally using their regular H13 hi/low harness and still had issues with that.

I've double checked all connections and they're fine. I've also checked all ground points and they are fine. I've swapped ballasts, bulbs, igniters from side to side and they are all fine.

The one thing i noticed today was that it appeared the driver side was getting intermittent power. I disconnected the ballast for a few minutes and reconnected and it fired up again! I'm at a loss at this point.

thanks for chiming in tho! I appreciate ya taking the time to brainstorm this.

I see, that's a really screwy setup and also not necessary on these trucks they do not even have canbus, you don't need the resistors and you don't need the capacitor.
these trucks are dumb headlight wise, no part of the system can determine if there is a burnt out headlight or if there is even a bulb installed or not or if the wire is even connected
that being said you can run any off the shelf ballast, relays, and bulb of your choice.
all you need to connect is
1. headlight +positive to relay trigger
2. relay to ground
3. battery +positive to relay (insert fuse in this power line, as close to battery as you can)
4. ballast -negative to ground
5. ballast +positive from relay
6. ballast output to bulb

the negative from headlight harness can remain disconnected

when you turn on the headlight the signal triggers relay on, relay sends power to ballast, when the headlight is turned off the relay turns off and ballast no longer has power.

this is that simple, anything else is unnecessary

 

[Shimmy23]

I see, that's a really screwy setup and also not necessary on these trucks they do not even have canbus, you don't need the resistors and you don't need the capacitor.
these trucks are dumb headlight wise, no part of the system can determine if there is a burnt out headlight or if there is even a bulb installed or not or if the wire is even connected
that being said you can run any off the shelf ballast, relays, and bulb of your choice.
all you need to connect is
1. headlight +positive to relay trigger
2. relay to ground
3. battery +positive to relay (insert fuse in this power line, as close to battery as you can)
4. ballast -negative to ground
5. ballast +positive from relay
6. ballast output to bulb

the negative from headlight harness can remain disconnected

when you turn on the headlight the signal triggers relay on, relay sends power to ballast, when the headlight is turned off the relay turns off and ballast no longer has power.

this is that simple, anything else is unnecessary

How do you control your hi beams? The morimoto harness allows me to use the hi beam functions

 

[Doubeleive]

How do you control your hi beams? The morimoto harness allows me to use the hi beam functions

how does the bulb function? is it a magnetic bulb that shifts the position or does it have the little bulb on the side? there is no TRUE hi/lo hid bulb, so it depends on which trickery they are using, if it has the small bulb on the side then you just hook that up to the high beam power, if it is the magnetic bulb then it depends on how it operates but it should have another wire.

 

[BG1988]

I feel like i've tried everything I can to figure this issue out, aside from replacing the morimoto harness or adding capacitors. I'm no electrical engineer

Here's my setup:

Morimoto D2S mini 5.0 projectors
Osram CBB w/morimoto XB35 2.0 ballasts
Morimoto relay harness (plug and play)
in OEM yukon headlight housings

My first issue is that the driver side light will intermittently work. If its out, I'll turn off the headlights and then BOTH won't work... I wait a minute or so, then both turn on. Makes me think there's a voltage issue or potential relay?

My second issue is that if both sides work, the passenger side will start to have a faint flicker that comes and goes. Its barely there, but enough for me to notice when I'm driving. Its almost a pulsing type flicker, not like a flashing or strobing. I do not hear any clicking from the relay during this action.

All components are about 2 months old. I've checked all connections and they're fine. I've checked all grounds (wired to factory grounding spots), all seem fine. I've swapped ballasts/igniters and still have the same issue. My last stop is replacing the wiring relay harness or adding a capacitor.

Any ideas what could be causing this? I know many of us have done retrofits. This is my second one on this chassis and never had issues before. What wiring harness are ya'll using?

TIA!

EDIT:
i have 80k miles, and on original alternator. Battery was replaced about 4 years ago.

need a capacitor to filter out the flickering and ignition issues... I should have my OEM capacitors on Monday i'll let you.(i got to rewire them and bypass the capacitor computer module ). these are Automotive grade and automotive grade housing, capacitors none of that DIY rubbish (you can get 1k farad @12v unit for 25$)..a 1k farad unit @ 12v is worth $900. these sellers are so stupid the don't even know they got a pile of gold on them. i would not be able to make one and sell it to you due to the forum rules but you can make your own or buy one premade



some say connecting it directly to the battery? fixes it but don't do anything yet someone might know how to fix it

 

[Shimmy23]

how does the bulb function? is it a magnetic bulb that shifts the position or does it have the little bulb on the side? there is no TRUE hi/lo hid bulb, so it depends on which trickery they are using, if it has the small bulb on the side then you just hook that up to the high beam power, if it is the magnetic bulb then it depends on how it operates but it should have another wire.

I’ve retrofitted my headlights so I’m using a D2S bulb and the hi/lo signal is triggering the light shield in the projector.

at this point I’m wondering if I have a faulty motocontrol module. I’ve replaced the module once already but maybe I keep getting a faulty one from morimoto. These harnesses are essentially plug and play. I’m using the mopar spec version since TRS suggested this after I talked with them several times and still could not fix the issues. Below is a diagram of what I have

 

[mcislak]

I have the Moro control harness as well with the same issues as you. I’ve swapped the wiring a couldn’t times and I’ve swapped the relay a few times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[mcislak]

I’m going to be doing my suburban in the coming weeks. That won’t need the motocontrol relay because it has separate high and low beams. I’m hoping I don’t have the same issues again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Doubeleive]

I’ve retrofitted my headlights so I’m using a D2S bulb and the hi/lo signal is triggering the light shield in the projector.

at this point I’m wondering if I have a faulty motocontrol module. I’ve replaced the module once already but maybe I keep getting a faulty one from morimoto. These harnesses are essentially plug and play. I’m using the mopar spec version since TRS suggested this after I talked with them several times and still could not fix the issues. Below is a diagram of what I have


View attachment 239826

ok, so all you would need to do is figure out which wire activates the shade then connect the high beam power output to that wire or use a 2nd relay, even though you have upgraded to the d2s you still do not need all these components for a canbus.
on your diagram above it would be the "hi-beam output" since there really is no high beam that is what is triggering the projector shade. check that with 12v and a ground, you should hear a click sound of the shade moving.
that system can be eliminated all together and you would be less prone to failure.
you can use part of the existing harness and add 2 new ballast and 2 relays and
you may need a couple of h13 harness adapters so you don't have to cut any factory wires.

 

[Doubeleive]

need a capacitor to filter out the flickering and ignition issues... I should have my OEM capacitors on Monday i'll let you.(i got to rewire them and bypass the capacitor computer module ). these are Automotive grade and automotive grade housing, capacitors none of that DIY rubbish (you can get 1k farad @12v unit for 25$)..a 1k farad unit @ 12v is worth $900. these sellers are so stupid the don't even know they got a pile of gold on them. i would not be able to make one and sell it to you due to the forum rules but you can make your own or buy one premade



some say connecting it directly to the battery? fixes it but don't do anything yet someone might know how to fix it

a capacitor not needed, if you have flickering or ignition issue's then you have a defective bulb or ballast or relay or the wire gauge is too small or you have a poor ground issue
I have no caps on mine and never have had any flickering or ignition problems, never have since I had my 00 and my 03, and 04, and my 12 and 18.
if I start getting flickering or ignition problems then I troubleshoot and fix the problem, it's only 1 of 4 things.
1. bad ballast
2. bad bulb
3 bad relay
4 bad wiring
usually that's pretty easy to figure out.
flickering is usually a bad bulb
no ignition is usually bad ballast or relay and occasionally the bulb
it's real easy to verify by pulling the ballast and connecting straight to the battery if it doesn't work then swap ballast, if it doesn't work swap bulb. if it works directly from the battery then the problem is the relay or wiring.