03 hard shift 1-2 4l60

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Timc9516

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So you ordered a whole new accumulator housing from GM and only got one spring? I would just order the big outer one if you are worried about harsh shifts. Me, id roll the dice and hope the one in my trans was ok. Then again i like solid shifts, so even if it was broken id probably just hit up a hardware store and look for a spring close in diameter. Just to keep tension on the piston not even really for cushion.
Ok so in other words your saying there should be two springs?
 

Mudsport96

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IMG_0107.jpg
both of these show a large and a small spring
vlXtfxQ.jpg
 

Mudsport96

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So i would say you need 2 springs. Most people from what i can find, reuse the stock ones. Are yours good? I have no idea maybe not since you have a harsh shift.
 

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Interesting. Mine is having the Occasional hard 1-2 shift as well. Recently I replaced the filter and fluid. Seems to have helped but I catch it doing it randomly. Seems to do it more often constant use, or a long period of stop and go driving. I use it for work every day so it's on and driving/shifting all day. Hadn't done it in over 2 months until this Monday.
 

rockola1971

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There should be 2 springs (big and small). Usually the old bigger one is busted in half which causes the hard shift. Replace it and dont goto the damn hardware store and just stick a spring from there in there. Stick what is designed and suppose to be in there.
 

Mudsport96

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There should be 2 springs (big and small). Usually the old bigger one is busted in half which causes the hard shift. Replace it and dont goto the damn hardware store and just stick a spring from there in there. Stick what is designed and suppose to be in there.
Why not? I used a bunch of washers to space my short spring and a chunk of pipe where the big one goes.
Oh wait wait. Hes trying to get rid of the harsh shift. Carry on.
 
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Timc9516

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Sorry for the delay. I wasn't able to get a bay open at my shop.

So the struggle and confusion continues.

So I dropped the pan to do the 1-2 accumulator and of course my bad luck continued. The valve body gasket tore when I dropped the accumulator. So I ordered a over haul kit containing all seals (luckily) because that was the only one I could find with next day air shipping.

Due to the website not fulfilling orders past 3 on Friday. It didn't ship till monday. I got it yesterday and started back on it last night.

So now for the big reveal when I dropped the pan I noticed it didn't have the newer accumulator housing which I thought was weird but I used that one just incase. After I dropped the valve body and got it all clean I noticed the gasket only had a v not a vb stamped into it. So I got curious and found the info stamp at the tail on the case and googled it... the person I bought the truck from apparently didn't see it important to tell me they blew up the original transmission and instead of having it rebuilt. They put a 2001 4l60e from a 5.3l in it....

So here's my questions.

First. How is this even possible. I thought the 4l65e and 4l60e used different converters, flex plates and bellhousings? And not to mention its from a 5.3l and the 2003 yukon xl denalis only came with a 4l65e or 4l80e

Second. Ik the 4l65e was designed for the newer 6.0l because the 4l60e can't handle the extra power. So could this be the reason I was experiencing that hard shift?

Third I'm guessing that this 4l60e isn't gonna last long. So what would be required to swap it back to a 4l65e. Is there different software for the 2001 4l60e. Was I right about the differences mentioned above?? Obviously I'm not doing it when the time comes. I don't have the space nor the time. (I'm expecting a chuckle from the trans shop when I do eventually bring it in *****)

Lastly. Just for fun. Would would be required to swap it to a 4l80e or should I just go back to a 4l65e?
 

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The only difference between a 60 and 65 is a few hard parts. You can Google for the exact parts but it’s not much and most upgraded 60’s are actually stronger than stock 65’s. They use the same bell housings and converters. If you want to put an 80 in, you’ll need an adapter for the transfer case from a guy on Performance Trucks.net if one can still be found, then build a crossmember or buy one that somebody built and finally you’ll need someone with HP Tuners to do a segment swap for the tune. IMO it’s only really worth all the trouble if you’re running over 450 hp. There are 60’s built to take 1000 hp. I’m running a Level 3 Performabuilt 4l60e in my supercharged 02 Denali that’s rated for 900.
 

Mudsport96

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Could always find a 70e to swap in to your rig. As far as i know, they are bolt in and go other than swapping the shift shaft sensor and omitting the input shaft speed sensor. Supposed to be better tuan the 65e to boot.
 
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Timc9516

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Well ik its been awhile. I've been super busy at work. But a few weeks ago I got a code for pressure control solenoid circuit open. Was getting ready to order the parts soon. But on my way to work today. It suddenly started making this awful grinding noise. Luckily I was right down the street from work so I limped it there at bearly 2 mph cause anything over you couldn't hear yourself think. I thought maybe the front diff went so I tried to back it into my spot to slide under at lunch and the second I put it in reverse it started making that noise with out moving and couldn't move.(edit: also the speedometer climbs when in reverse)I'm beginning to think the trans is shot. My guess planetary gears. This has been such a headache. Luckily I only paid a grand for the truck. Anyways. Anyone have any insight or things to check first before I cal the trans shop to get a quote. Also anyone who has had theres rebuilt wanna chime in with what it ended up costing you so I can get an idea
 
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Mudsport96

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This truck 2 or 4 wheel drive? Usually the output shaft has to spin to make the speedo move? Sounds like if its 4x4 the transfercase is broken and the output is spinning. If its 2wd you have a big problem ( not that it wasnt apparent)
 

rockola1971

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AWD/4wd/2wd and grinding while in reverse with no movement of the vehicle......Sunshell center hub weld has broke or the spline in the hub is stripped, could also be that the chain has jumped teeth (stretched) in the AWD unit also. Tcase has to come down no matter what first anyway. Pull it and check it first. Hopefully the chain hasnt dug into the case and destroyed it.
 
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Timc9516

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Yea I figured sunshell when it had no reverse its just weird that the speedometer climbs when in reverse but I don't move but I can drive forward
 

Mudsport96

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AWD/4wd/2wd and grinding while in reverse with no movement of the vehicle......Sunshell center hub weld has broke or the spline in the hub is stripped, could also be that the chain has jumped teeth (stretched) in the AWD unit also. Tcase has to come down no matter what first anyway. Pull it and check it first. Hopefully the chain hasnt dug into the case and destroyed it.
Usually i would agree with the sunshell thought, but the no movement but having speedo input makes me think it is something after the transmission because the output has to turn to get the speedo signal.
Yea I figured sunshell when it had no reverse its just weird that the speedometer climbs when in reverse but I don't move but I can drive forward
This is what i would do in your place. Take the front driveshaft loose of the front diff and see how difficult it is to turn and if it makes any noise.
 
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Timc9516

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I'm taking it to a shop cause I just don't have the time or the space to fix it myself.

I read alot about the 4x4 cases having a snap ring on the rear output shaft that brakes and acts similar. Anyone know if that snap ring is on the nr3 and cases too?
 

rockola1971

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I'm taking it to a shop cause I just don't have the time or the space to fix it myself.

I read alot about the 4x4 cases having a snap ring on the rear output shaft that brakes and acts similar. Anyone know if that snap ring is on the nr3 and cases too?
All that snapring does is hold the output shaft bearing in place. It wouldnt give the symptoms that you have.
 
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Timc9516

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Well I brought it to the the trans shop. It turned out to be the rear planetary gear set. He rebuilt the whole trans and did my rear main seal for me. 2808 out the door.

It's so nice now. Just gotta take care of the miss fire and the leaking radiator.... it never ends lol
 

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