I’ve been putting this off, but finally dropped my oil pan and replaced the O-ring and gasket. Not the worst job to do, but not much fun either. That said, now my oil pressure is nice and solid in the green. I was getting intermittent low pressure warnings prior.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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lowh07
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Are Hellwig sway bars still the top dog? 7685 and 7707. I don't think I'd need the 7799 spacers but idk. I don't think it's even close to touching my 4L80E lines. I was set on Hotchkis but I don't see them available anywhere anymore. Did some research yesterday and found a few posts about Hellwig
mikez71
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Nolathane bars don't have great eyelet alignment.. I would go Hellwig over Nolathanes anyway..
After a year and a half of replacing drive gears, changing module's and having it apart about 100 times i got this from the wrecking yard for $150 as a last ditch effort to fix it.
Had it apart and the new part in, in less than a half hour.
Fallowed the relearn procedure and SUCCESS! Finally, the gate opens with the remote and closes with the button. Did it about 10 times cuz it was nice to see it was working properly.
No idea why the old one would not work. It has had two new drive gears and 2 different modules and i can hear the motor run but for what ever reason the drive gear will not engage.
Had it apart and the new part in, in less than a half hour.
Fallowed the relearn procedure and SUCCESS! Finally, the gate opens with the remote and closes with the button. Did it about 10 times cuz it was nice to see it was working properly.
No idea why the old one would not work. It has had two new drive gears and 2 different modules and i can hear the motor run but for what ever reason the drive gear will not engage.
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IMO, you cannot go wrong with Hellwig sway bars. They simply cancel body roll.
The instructions said to use the spacers on my truck, and I did. IMO, they were not needed for clearance purposes on my truck.
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yep
I have one of these I pulled at the junkyard a couple years and stuck it in storage in case mine ever takes a dump, which oddly enough in the last couple months it's started making a thump noise at full open sometimes but no other symptoms.
how does the re calibration process work?
Sir_Hiro
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I'm still alive. Had to remove the passenger side flare due to the tape coming off..Waiting on a nice couple warm days to re stick it on the car.
I believe in my scanner without looking it says. Tailgate open/close test.
lowh07
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Painted the block and started reassembly. The main clearances are tighter than I’d like so I ordered some oversized bearings. 1,2,4,5 are showing about .0018 and 3 is around .0012 according to the plastigage.
Finally disabled the DOD, even though it has been working fine, I wanted to see how it compares as I can usually tell when it's in V4 mode at cruise based on the pitch change. Really made a difference in overall smoothness, at times I thought it was the road surface or even a tire balance issue but these were very subtle. I may switch it back for a day or 2 every so often just to keep fresh oil flowing through the lifters but as of now I'm enjoying it deactivated.
mine has been off for 100k, no need to turn it back on ever
the_tool_man
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I had mine turned off a few weeks after I got my Yukon, 94k miles ago. I've never once thought about turning it back on (not that I could if I did). If I ever buy another GMT900 with AFM, I'll immediately get it turned off. It's a no-brainer.
There's no benefit in doing that. Oil is still flowing through the lifters because they're hydraulic, and the AFM portion will still be getting at least some oil flow, as the chambers aren't sealed from leakage.
LSCALADE
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Its almost warm enough to start doing some body work on these two. Gotta hate salt and the rust damage it causes!
Ok, I guess I was thinking if for some reason I reverted back to the stock tune, that there would be any chance of the lifter getting stuck in the collapsed position. I can see how the oil would sill move throughout the lifter but now sure if any part of that circuit saw little to no oil flow. Good to know though...the few times I have driven it now I can't believe I waited this long. Now that it has some more time to fine tune the PCM it feels even better just after a few hundred miles.
I've been in the lifter area with a borescope when I changed the rocker arms just to take a peek, and it looked clean as a whistle so I agree there shoudln't be a problem.
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I brought my truck into the shop today for a checkup, before going into the mountains at the end of the week. Everything should be good, but its worth checking, rather than being stranded in the mountains. In particular, I want the the fluid in the transfer case changed, as I don't know for sure when it was last changed.
I'm going to have the remaining front brake caliper bolts checked for proper torque, since I lost a bolt last week on the right front caliper.
Last, I'm getting a boost gauge installed on the steering column, behind the steering wheel, just because.
I'm going to have the remaining front brake caliper bolts checked for proper torque, since I lost a bolt last week on the right front caliper.
Last, I'm getting a boost gauge installed on the steering column, behind the steering wheel, just because.
Do they make an A-pillar pod mount for the 1500's? Not saying you should do it but just curious. I would like to have th eneed for a boost gauge..
...maybe later though....lol.
Nice lineup on the porch!
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Yes, they do, but that's not where I want mine to be mounted.Do they make an A-pillar pod mount for the 1500's? Not saying you should do it but just curious. I would like to have th eneed for a boost gauge..
