mikez71
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OEM's are definitely going to charge a subscription fee for that option...
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Charlie207
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Concur, you need to pull it out. Makes it 10,001% possible. There's no way to fold the seat cover clips up/around onto the frame rails with the seat in the car.
Plus, with the seat on the garage/basement floor, you can sit in it, to "seat" the clips fully onto the frame with your body weight.
Charlie207
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Added the upper/inner gusset plates that I forgot about when I initially welded the bumper up. They were in the bottom of the box, and I didn't see them...oofda.
Also, I realized that the giant bumper logo was almost exactly the same size as the LED bar that came on my rig when I bought it. So I cut that MOVE section out, and welded some tabs in for the Retina Blaster 9000. The car was already wired for the bar, so that made it a no-brainer. (Still working out a solution for reusing the factory fog lights.)
Primer is drying over night, then whatever black paint I have left in the stack of rattle-cans.
I think phase 17 will address triangulating the bumper wings to the frame mounts.
Also, I realized that the giant bumper logo was almost exactly the same size as the LED bar that came on my rig when I bought it. So I cut that MOVE section out, and welded some tabs in for the Retina Blaster 9000. The car was already wired for the bar, so that made it a no-brainer. (Still working out a solution for reusing the factory fog lights.)
Primer is drying over night, then whatever black paint I have left in the stack of rattle-cans.
I think phase 17 will address triangulating the bumper wings to the frame mounts.
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CMoore711
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Been hearing some squeaks & creeks from the front suspension.
So hit the zerk fittings on ball joints in my Mevotech TTX control arms with some red & tacky.
Did both driver & passenger sides upper and lower ball joints.
Some squeezed out of my upper driver side which I wasn’t a huge fan of, but I’ll keep an eye on it.
Morning commute into work over my routine route that causes the squeaks will confirm if this did the trick.
So hit the zerk fittings on ball joints in my Mevotech TTX control arms with some red & tacky.
Did both driver & passenger sides upper and lower ball joints.
Some squeezed out of my upper driver side which I wasn’t a huge fan of, but I’ll keep an eye on it.
Morning commute into work over my routine route that causes the squeaks will confirm if this did the trick.
Charlie207
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It's probably the swaybar bushings that creak/squeak.
Also, you don't need to pump so much grease into the ball joints that it blows out. One squirt is enough to supplant the grease that's cycled through the ball/socket as it cycles through its range of motion.
CMoore711
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The creaks & squeaks are gone from the front suspension so I feel like the ball joints were the culprit.
Thanks @Charlie207 Admittedly I wasn't too sure on how much grease to put into them and probably did over do it. I kept slowly adding more pumps until I could visually see the boot expand some. That may have not been the correct "visual indicator" to go by...
Charlie207
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I doubt you hurt the rubber, as they looked fairly serviceable. I've definitely blown out old rubber balljoint boots after they've been weakened and cracked, and just gave the grease-gun the 21-pump salute. Not wise, but now I know.
I've done it a few times both ways. IMHO pulling it out is easier. It's hard as hell to get the bottom cover clips pulled down onto the seat frame, especially along the console tunnel side.
when you found the drivers side firewall/body leak on yours what did you use to seal it? I assume that was you anyway I could be wrong
I am one of us here dealing with that, it isn't found/fixed yet. Check this thread out, @Rocket Man seemed to have fixed his:
Rocket Man’s 2008 Tahoe Build Thread
Damn. I am watching this. I have the same leak. It's a ***** to figure out. If the rubber backed padding wasn’t completely covering the firewall and going behind everything a person could at least see where it’s coming from. I finally was able to get access to the bottom portion. I have a...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
I guess I am going to grab this stuff and see what I can doI am one of us here dealing with that, it isn't found/fixed yet. Check this thread out, @Rocket Man seemed to have fixed his:
Rocket Man’s 2008 Tahoe Build Thread
Damn. I am watching this. I have the same leak. It's a ***** to figure out. If the rubber backed padding wasn’t completely covering the firewall and going behind everything a person could at least see where it’s coming from. I finally was able to get access to the bottom portion. I have a...
Got this delivered today, LUK TC0017. Forgot how heavy torque convertors are!
Charlie207
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I was just reading about those today, and their rated for 1000Nm, or almost 738ft./lbs. You'll annihilate the gearbox and twist the driveshaft into confetti before the TC slips. Nice.
Charlie207
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Finished the last 10% of the bumper build. Got the little extra steel parts welded and painted, the light bar mounted and wired, and even managed to reuse most of the hard foam insert behind the bumper cover.
I imagine it helps funnel air into the radiator and other coolers by blocking off the air flowing down.
I have to figure out a good foglight solution. Square lights on L-brackets would be the easiest to cut and weld for, but I like the idea of somehow reusing the factory lights. It would be significantly harder for me to cut a bice oblong hole and use the OEM light mounts.
Time for a barley-pop.
I imagine it helps funnel air into the radiator and other coolers by blocking off the air flowing down.
I have to figure out a good foglight solution. Square lights on L-brackets would be the easiest to cut and weld for, but I like the idea of somehow reusing the factory lights. It would be significantly harder for me to cut a bice oblong hole and use the OEM light mounts.
Time for a barley-pop.
You have a much higher opinion of the factory fog lights than I do. They're only 25W or so, and the pattern isn't great.
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Looking at your radiator, it appears that you need to blow out the fins to improve air flow.
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I made the decision to rebuild/upgrade my transfer case, since that is the only drivetrain item on my truck that has not been rebuilt. I purchased a used transfer case from LKQ, and it should be delivered to my build shop on Monday for a complete rebuild/upgrade. Once rebuilt, it goes into the truck.
Totally normal. I have taken the rear mount loose and jacked the trans up enough to wiggle it out. Some can just wiggle out.
