Bought my first Tahoe today. Need advice on what to watch out for and perhaps replace.

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04Z71w

04Z71w

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I used the higher end moog steering / suspension parts on my tahoe and have no complaints. They have grease zerks and went 37,000 miles no problems so far. Your Tahoe should have a steering gear box, not a rack and pinion. If the gear box is good at that mileage consider your self lucky and keep it! Remanufactured ones that don’t have slop are hard to find! I learned that the hard way by replacing it anyways with everything else like you mentioned haha
hahaha yea the mechanic corrected me about it being a gear box not a rack/pinion but I still refer to them as steering racks. It's apparently still good so I'll leave it alone for now.
Got all the moog parts needed plus a bunch of other stuff. Only thing I managed to accomplish today was getting the water pump on.
Got sidelined after driving it around to check the temps after water pump install. The transmission is slipping a ton, wont kick down and hangs high until it decides it wants to shift up. Not to mention after about 10 minutes of warming up the trans sounds like a vacuum on speed. It'll literally be so slugish but once it decides to get in the right gear it moves. Transmission fluid is clean and and full so not really enthused about a possible ( more than likely since its a 4l60e ) trans rebuilt.

Found a stage 1 unit for 1500.00 through transdepot though. Not entirely sure what the previous owner had repaired on it only that it had some parts ''replaced'' If it's anything like the way they ghettoed in the aftermarket headlight assemblies then the trans is toast lol.
 
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Teamiez

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hahaha yea the mechanic corrected me about it being a gear box not a rack/pinion but I still refer to them as steering racks. It's apparently still good so I'll leave it alone for now.
Got all the moog parts needed plus a bunch of other stuff. Only thing I managed to accomplish today was getting the water pump on.
Got sidelined after driving it around to check the temps after water pump install. The transmission is slipping a ton, wont kick down and hangs high until it decides it wants to shift up. Not to mention after about 10 minutes of warming up the trans sounds like a vacuum on speed. It'll literally be so slugish but once it decides to get in the right gear it moves. Transmission fluid is clean and and full so not really enthused about a possible ( more than likely since its a 4l60e ) trans rebuilt.

Found a stage 1 unit for 1500.00 through transdepot though. Not entirely sure what the previous owner had repaired on it only that it had some parts ''replaced'' If it's anything like the way they ghettoed in the aftermarket headlight assemblies then the trans is toast lol.
Sounds like a 4L60E. Things were meant to move Camaros not tahoes in my eyes haha
 

Popeye101

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Hello,

I bout my first Tahoe today, a 2004 z71 with 275k miles. Bought it for a pretty good price and in above average condition for how old it is.
I'm a sports car person but decided I wanted a Tahoe for the occasional camping trips and what not.
Not knowing that much about them I'm just wanting some advice on what to look out for at 275k miles. The transfer case was replaced 6 months ago ( verified ) along with the rear main seal and a rebuilt transmission but not completely rebuilt just some parts or 780 worth of it.

Only issues I have with it are one or both the catalytic converters are going bad as its running super rich and reeks of unspent gas through the exhaust.
Steering is a bit loose, brakes are super spongy and the temp gauge hovers around 200 to 220 degrees, depends on the load but doesn't actually over heat just goes a little past 210 degrees then back own for a bit.

Saying that what should I watch out or possibly slowly replace? My plans are to replace the radiator, upgrade to better cooling fans as the ones on there now are super noisy. like loud as all get it out like a wheezy cough Look into buying a complete suspension kit and replace the front as well as with the steering components. I already have new coolant hoses and belts should I need.

Biggest things are the A/C front and Rear works like a charm which is needed in North Texas this time of year.
Any advice or preferred parts to use would be helpful. Right now planning no performance mods until normal stuff gets sorted.
 

OR VietVet

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@Popeye101, welcome to the forum.

You quoted @04Z71w and then you could have commented under the quote after you loaded the quote on your post.

Since you are new, the standing expectation is for you to also post pics of your rig.
 

RED TAHOE LS

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Hello,

I bout my first Tahoe today, a 2004 z71 with 275k miles. Bought it for a pretty good price and in above average condition for how old it is.
I'm a sports car person but decided I wanted a Tahoe for the occasional camping trips and what not.
Not knowing that much about them I'm just wanting some advice on what to look out for at 275k miles. The transfer case was replaced 6 months ago ( verified ) along with the rear main seal and a rebuilt transmission but not completely rebuilt just some parts or 780 worth of it.

Only issues I have with it are one or both the catalytic converters are going bad as its running super rich and reeks of unspent gas through the exhaust.
Steering is a bit loose, brakes are super spongy and the temp gauge hovers around 200 to 220 degrees, depends on the load but doesn't actually over heat just goes a little past 210 degrees then back own for a bit.

Saying that what should I watch out or possibly slowly replace? My plans are to replace the radiator, upgrade to better cooling fans as the ones on there now are super noisy. like loud as all get it out like a wheezy cough Look into buying a complete suspension kit and replace the front as well as with the steering components. I already have new coolant hoses and belts should I need.

Biggest things are the A/C front and Rear works like a charm which is needed in North Texas this time of year.
Any advice or preferred parts to use would be helpful. Right now planning no performance mods until normal stuff gets sorted.
Make a plan with priority's FIRST, basic mechanical immediately. You found a diamond in the rough so go slow. I suggest a 195 degree thermostat, OEM radiator is all you need with fresh hoses. Flushing the cooling system is the most important to clean the engine OUT BEFORE replacing the radiator. There is only one-way to flush.......to do it correct.
1. cooling flush in radiator
2. follow directions on bottle
3. let circulate @ least 30 minutes make sure HEATER is on. turn engine off
4. remove top radiator from radiator, move so water will drain on ground
5. put wadded up rag in upper radiator neck where hose was
6. Remove radiator cap and put water hose in radiator
7. start engine and adjust water hose in radiator just to keep water running
8. when water from upper hose is CLEAN.....YOU'RE DONE.

I share the way I was taught by good people years ago. There's GIVERS and TAKERS......i choose too share in giving.
You have a great Z71......keep it that way.
 

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04Z71w

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Spot and that's pretty much what I did. Replaced the water pump because I did see a fair amount of coolant leaking from it. During that time it got a good flush as well. The current fan/fan clutch looked good so I left it on. It comes on at first start up then goes away until it's needed but it does come on fairly early even under minimal slow city driving. It's just so dang loud when it kicks on and I can instantly, what feels like, 100hp go missing. It sounds like a vacuum on steroids. Been way to busy lately to work on but I do have a new clutch ready to go in this weekend. I've just never know a damn fan/fan clutch be so loud and rob that much power.

Oh and it cools great while driving and stays little below 210 ( all while being loud as all get it ) so I'm assuming right at 195F However if I get stuck at a light the temperature goes past 210 to around 230ish little more but does not completely over heat. When the light turns green and I go the temp goes back down to normal....is that the sign of a bad fan/fan clutch? Never really dealt with a fan clutch and Probably next spring it's getting an electric conversion done.
 
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04Z71w

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replace thermostat.....water boils @ 212
Purchased a new thermostat this past weekend have yet to put it in
replace thermostat.....water boils @ 212
Got a new thermostat have yet to install it. Got a few other parts coming in so I can do them all at once. Thermostat, fan clutch, idle pulley, oil sending unit, exhaust manifold clamps, new rotors, pads , break lines. Shocks/struts, complete moon front end kit, head light bezels, new head lights because whoever put these crap ass aftermarket ones in ruined the mounting tabs and bezels and they are not even close to being lined up correctly and for giggles I got a set of spare 862 heads to have ported along with a 2500hd hood I did some horse trading for. Just waiting on coil packs, egr valve, some vacuum lines and motor/transmission mounts to come in. Engine is in great shape for 277k miles compression is well within spec just needs a ton of small stuff that was neglected and half-assed. Don't understand why people rig up or half ass proper maintenance.
 

Tonyrodz

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Purchased a new thermostat this past weekend have yet to put it in

Got a new thermostat have yet to install it. Got a few other parts coming in so I can do them all at once. Thermostat, fan clutch, idle pulley, oil sending unit, exhaust manifold clamps, new rotors, pads , break lines. Shocks/struts, complete moon front end kit, head light bezels, new head lights because whoever put these crap ass aftermarket ones in ruined the mounting tabs and bezels and they are not even close to being lined up correctly and for giggles I got a set of spare 862 heads to have ported along with a 2500hd hood I did some horse trading for. Just waiting on coil packs, egr valve, some vacuum lines and motor/transmission mounts to come in. Engine is in great shape for 277k miles compression is well within spec just needs a ton of small stuff that was neglected and half-assed. Don't understand why people rig up or half ass proper maintenance.
Check the heads for any cracks.
 
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04Z71w

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Check the heads
They're Good. Had them checked by a local shop who does ls everything.
However the issue I'm facing now is the trans is slipping majorly. Starts out in 2nd, shifts into 1st randomly, 3rd gear is there some where. I can feather the throttle a little bit to get it to stick and shift properly but I'm think a stage 1 trans has made the list.
 

alpha_omega

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Have you dropped the trans pan and replaced the filter yet? Might be something as simple as needing new fluid and a filter. Dropping the pan with also give you an idea as to how much clutch material is in the pan. *take and send photos*
You might find this an easier task to complete if/when you remove the exhaust. Otherwise just be prepared with some penetrating oil and new exhaust hardware.

Have you drained the front/rear Diff and the transfer case? If not, I would do that asap as well.

Regarding powerstop pads and rotors…they work very well for our heavy ass vehicles. I’ve used the rotors on my 02’ but have no experience with their pads. @Doubeleive can chime in on this as well.

One thing I didn’t notice if you or anyone else had mentioned were the fittings for your coolant lines. The plastic quick connect fittings are notorious for being brittle, especially on an older vehicle. Have them on hand when you go to make that swap.
 

Doubeleive

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I see they haven't responded in a bit but funky shifting in a otherwise working transmission could very well be a bad maf or solenioids
at 274k if the maf is original throw that thing away it's pretty typical to see them start being weird at around 160k and they can cause all kinds of seemingly unrelated problems.
as far as brakes a good premium ceramic pad has always worked well for me I am very ******* brakes, rotors are rotors unless you are towing a lot or driving it like it's Porsche then you might consider better stuff there are many brands out there and many opinions drilled and slotted may be less prone to warping but some cheapy brands will tend to develop hairline cracks, if you want to go extreme there are carbon fiber options but they are noisy and make a ton of dust. or just buy a big brake kit if you are flush with $$$$'s
 

MassHoe04

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I've had great experiences using NAPA Gold premium ceramic pads. The NAPA Ultra Premium poly coated rotors were awesome! I had them on my Jeep for three salty New England winters and they still looked brand new. No warpage, they're beefy, great stopping and not speck of rust.

I am doing Raybestos R series on my 04 Tahoe now, because funds are tight now.

I definitely have the NAPA coated rotors on my list for next set of brakes. With those, I would expect to change pads many times before having to do rotors again.

Whatever you end up with...
In the long run, it definitely pays to not cheap out on rotors.
 

BG1988

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First thing I would address is the brakes, you could maybe just need to flush and bleed them real good but inspect and if need be do pads and rotors at the same time
I would then move on to the cooling system, temp should be rock solid under normal conditions and should not fluctuate at all, being high mileage and unless you have evidence that it has been replaced in the last 5 years I would just replace the radiator and flush everything out real well, use some radiator flush first with just water and run it a couple days, drain and refill with water a couple times afterwards then use 50/50 coolant/water mix for the final fill. this should resolve the temp fluctuation if not then you need to move on to the thermostat and water pump.
you may want to invest in a good scanner like a tech2 it's what the dealers use, you could use that to see what is going on with rich mixture and go from there. cat's are pretty pricey right now due to covid and production being slow. so I would try to stretch that need out until the prices get better again. just for reference cat prices are double what they were pre-covid.
GMT800 came equipped with spongy brakes option the lines need to be replaced with some aftermarket (even the GMT900 are better)
 

dejackson1064

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Thanks for all the info!

I did manage to get out there and inspect the brakes. Rotors are fairly worn down and the pads are I would say 80% gone so I'm going to update them with better than OE parts. What's a good upgrade for rotors and pads? When I do those it'll get a full flush and bleed.
The suspension looks to be original and a bit worn so I'm going to have to do a complete front end suspension/steering tune up on it.
The cooling system is getting replaced as far as the radiator/fan/fan clutch and hoses. The ac works real well however the ac condenser looks real bad so I might change that out. I'm going to have a GM mechanic check out the steering this weekend that's beyond me and since it's a major component it's better a pro diagnose it.

It actually has an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold and where it meets the y pipe. I'm guess that's why the CEL keeps popping on and off. Plus I can hear it ticking and hissing.

I'm not a lifted truck person so it'll probably remain stock height with better suspension or I may lower it a little for an even clean look but not lowered to the ground.

But yes this weekend I am going through all the standard protocol of restoring a car and start with the brakes/cooling/suspension and emissions parts and replace what needs to be replaced for normal operating conditions first. Thanks for the advice. Only picture I have of it right now is attached.

I have to say I am by no means a fan of chevy but love the Tahoe's so damn cool.
That Tahoe is about as good of a restore 4x4 as you will find. I owned one exactly like and still own an 04 SLT Yukon w/ 300K. I drive it everyday and trust it more than my 2017 Tahoe. 2004 was a strong year. Solid design, easy to work on/modify and parts are comparatively cheap. I will never trade my 04 Yukon simply because 22+ yrs EVERTHING still works!
 

Fless

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That Tahoe is about as good of a restore 4x4 as you will find. I owned one exactly like and still own an 04 SLT Yukon w/ 300K. I drive it everyday and trust it more than my 2017 Tahoe. 2004 was a strong year. Solid design, easy to work on/modify and parts are comparatively cheap. I will never trade my 04 Yukon simply because 22+ yrs EVERTHING still works!

The OP hasn't been on here since late 2021...
 

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