Front CV-Axle Replacement Question

Continuing previously posted thread regarding front CV axle (grease leak) replacement as it was not quite done.

Question is regarding replacing 2008 4wd Tahoe, Z-71 front cv axles.
There seem to be differing videos regarding replacing them regarding what, if any, nearby parts need removing to change the axles.
The information seen ranges from just removing the bolts at the junction of the stubs at the differential case plus the spindle nut, to another removing the struts and others showing taking apart suspension parts.

Hopefully looking to get first hand accounts on what is really needed.

Thanks.

There was a thread in the past few days that covered your question in detail, and the folks who posted had actually done the work firsthand. One takeaway was that the type of suspension trim dictated how many components needed to be removed to get the CV axle out.

best approach is to probably go his route
have a spare jack handy
1. remove the outer axle bolt (wheels on the ground), crack lugs loose if you do not have a impact
2 jack up the front so both wheels are off the ground, remove wheel
3. unbolt both sway bar end links and let the sway bar hang down from D bushings
4. unbolt brake caliper (optional)
5. remove rotor (optional)
6. remove inner axle bolts
wiggle axle out, it should pivot down and out from the knuckle once the outer threaded shaft has moved enough.
if it won't move much, use the spare jack to lift the knuckle a little bit. if the knuckle needs to drop more or move more easily unbolt the 2 lower strut bolts
if that is still not enough wiggle room you can loosen the 3 upper strut bolts and this will allow you to move the strut around enough for more room
**removing the sway bar end links and 2 lower strut bolts effectively allows the control arms to move up/down with no force on them at all.

install is the reverse, but I would tighten the outer axle bolt up as much as possible first before putting wheels back on the ground, then do a final torque on the outer axle bolt with wheels on the ground.

overall it is easy to do just a process, if your end links are worn now is a good time to install new ones

How come brake caliper and rotor need to be removed?

Could be the z71 strut is too long to loosen, (for sure if you have a spacer).
In that case you will need to pop the upper balljoint from knuckle, to lower suspension further.

mikez71 said:

How come brake caliper and rotor need to be removed?

Could be the z71 strut is too long to loosen, (for sure if you have a spacer).
In that case you will need to pop the upper balljoint from knuckle, to lower suspension further.

Click to expand...

i guess they don't really need to be if all you are doing is the axle but sure does make more room to work if it won't come out easily.
I think I have just been in the habit of doing brakes too much lol
when I rebuilt the front end last year I had to pull the axles out to do the lower control arm, so just habit I guess of having the brake out of the way
same if you have to change the hub the axle has to come out, brake have to come off also

might even need to remove the tie rod in order to pivot the knuckle if needed. just depends on how much it is fighting you.
the tie rods are generally pretty easy take the nut off and then just smack it with a hammer and it should pop right out.

Thanks for the input.
Looking at the struts today it seems they run pretty good interference with the axles but now I have an idea what to expect.
It looks like GM cv axles are at a tolerable price on RA. Aftermarket brand feedback doesn't give me confidence.

I did this 6 mos. ago on 4wd Yukon. I tried with the strut in place and there is not enough room and I had to pull the strut assembly. I did not remove the tie rod but did remove the sway bar link.

Always replace the axle nut - it's one time use.

To update, I did the driver's side axle and I needed to remove the sway bar link, the tie rod end connection to the steering knuckle and all but one fastener on the shock/spring assembly to allow it to rock out of the way.
Go Rock Auto for providing oem GM axle.
I don't want to revisit the job so aftermarket savings didn't appeal.

Resurrecting this to ask a stupid question because I think I got a stupid answer from one of the on-line GM Parts vendor's agents (or so I think it was).

The question was "Does the same front half-shaft (cv) axle fit both sides as there is only one part number shown (which I provided)?"
That was in reference to 2008 Tahoe LT 4wd and GM part 84842044 .
The agent's answer was "No, because they are different lengths."
I pointed out that only one part number was shown on their site and the answer to that was "Even though there is one part number there is a LH and RH added".

There was no such thing (LH or RH) in their or other listings, thus the reason I say I got a stupid answer.

When I pressed the issue the agent closed the chat. Perhaps he realized that he was talking out of his butt.
Or maybe I got an AI agent with a name and that would explain the suspected contrary answer.

Anyone who has done both sides, was it the same axle on both?

In the mean time I can getting back under there with a tape measure to get an approximation.

Changed both CV shafts and wheel bearing hubs on my previous 2008 Tahoe Z71 and current 2019 Yukon SLT and both vehicles used same shaft for both sides. Rockauto or AutoZone or similar should confirm

The half shafts are the same, L or R. There's a newer model number.

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-shaft-asm-frt-whl-drv-half-84842044.html (I wouldn't recommend purchasing from this dealer)

Fless said:

The half shafts are the same, L or R. There's a newer model number.

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-shaft-asm-frt-whl-drv-half-84842044.html (I wouldn't recommend purchasing from this dealer)

View attachment 487742

Click to expand...

Thanks.
I ordered one of the old model number and received a different number shown on the label above. I did run across a site that had quite a few superseded numbers.
I presume it's just a number change but not sure. It installed and works fine.
The dealer's price that you shared is up there compared to what I paid.

Seems like both questions on this thread are resolved but I just did this job last week so I'll chime in -- Just take out the strut and you can get the CV in and out without much of a fuss. It looked to me like you could do the job by removing the sway bar endlinks as well but the strut gives you the most clearance. Plus it's 5 bolts... little bit of kroil on them and you're good.

dsciulli19 said:

Seems like both questions on this thread are resolved but I just did this job last week so I'll chime in -- Just take out the strut and you can get the CV in and out without much of a fuss. It looked to me like you could do the job by removing the sway bar endlinks as well but the strut gives you the most clearance. Plus it's 5 bolts... little bit of kroil on them and you're good.

Click to expand...

I had to remove the sway bar link, the tie rod end connection to the steering knuckle to get the strut to even wiggle. At that point loosening the upper 3 nuts on the strut and the bottom 2 bolts allowed it to sway out of the way to deal with the axle.

It seemed that the tie rod connection and sway bar link just kept the strut tight in there.

I replaced the boots on my 2008 Yukon this past year. Pulled both CV axles and reinstalled after the boot job. I fought the first one a little and ended up removing the Strut. The bolts come out easy and quick, once removed you have lots of room to do the CV axle replacement. I know you can get them out with the Strut in place but the time spent removing the extra 3 nuts was minimal to drop the strut out and gain all the extra space.

once the outer axle nut is removed you just have to smack the axle (from the outside) to break it free/loose from the hub so you can pivot it out from the back it will pivot to around 60deg or so.

Doubeleive said:

once the outer axle nut is removed you just have to smack the axle (from the outside) to break it free/loose from the hub so you can pivot it out from the back it will pivot to around 60deg or so.

Click to expand...

I wish min went that easily.
Perhaps the passenger's side will.

EddieC said:

I wish min went that easily.
Perhaps the passenger's side will.

Click to expand...

Use a dead blow on it once the nut is off, if that doesn't work there should be a center spot to hit it with a center punch and sledge, that's just to break it loose from the hub so you can wiggle it out from the back

Doubeleive said:

Use a dead blow on it once the nut is off, if that doesn't work there should be a center spot to hit it with a center punch and sledge, that's just to break it loose from the hub so you can wiggle it out from the back

Click to expand...

The hub had previously been changed so the axle was fairly easy to get moving in the hub.
The issue was the clearances, first to get the axle to clear the stub axle flange from the differential but moreso to remove it from the surrounding hardware.