2010 Yukon XL Transmission/Gearing Questions.

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WinterStone

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So i just purchased a 2010 Yukon Xl that has a 6 inch lift and 35x12.5 wheels and tires all the way around. I know the transmission and torque converter and completely cooked. My question i keep being told by a couple shops is to go with a stage 2 transmission. But i was also told to go with an oem or stage one and change the rear gear ratio as it would make it much easier on the transmission with changing the gear ratio and would allow for better mpg in the long run. I don't know a lot about transmissions so i figured this would be the best place to get information/figure out which parts or gear ratio to go with. Thank you for reading and any help is greatly appreciated.
 

Foggy

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You will need some transmission tuning for sure to make the new trans
and new torque converter live. It's a hard life pushing 35's.. So Heavy

3.73 is the minimum gear if you plan on running 35" tall tires
4.10 would be better
Either way, You need to plan on somebody with knowledge of HPTuners
and the 6L80E transmission or it'll be a short lived experience
 
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WinterStone

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You will need some transmission tuning for sure to make the new trans
and new torque converter live. It's a hard life pushing 35's.. So Heavy

3.73 is the minimum gear if you plan on running 35" tall tires
4.10 would be better
Either way, You need to plan on somebody with knowledge of HPTuners
and the 6L80E transmission or it'll be a short lived experience
Okay thank you on the transmission tuning side is there anything i should ask or be looking towards other than just HPTuners?
 

Foggy

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Okay thank you on the transmission tuning side is there anything i should ask or be looking towards other than just HPTuners?
Not really. Get a high quality billet face converter from a reputable company.
Do all the upgrades available that your builder suggests
The "tuning" part isn't about having racing shifts or anything.
It's about changing the shift patterns AND the torque converter strategies
to help the new trans last ! And with 35" tires and probably 3.42 gear ratio
you currently have (if it's 3.08 , whew... change it) you need all the help
the trans can get to live a happy life. With HPTuners you can turn off
the dod/afm...which affects the transmission strategies as well. It's kind of
a package deal that GM had to do to meet epa/noise/harsh/vibration standards.
So everything in the DOD and TC lockup stuff is a compromise
 

Joseph Garcia

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This is going to cost you more than a few bucks, but if you want to get the most of your truck for reliability and usable performance, do the following, and you will be amazed with the results.

If you have a quality transmission rebuilder in your local area, purchase a used transmission from LKQ, and have it delivered directly to your transmission rebuilder. They will rebuild it, using the Sonnax and other known aftermarket upgrade parts that will strengthen and improve the mechanical functioning of the transmission.

Have your transmission rebuilder add a known brand billet torque converter, like Circle D or equivalent, and they will know what specific torque converter to use.

Convert your rear differential and your front differential to 4.10 gears, particularly in light of your using large tires. This change will be the single largest factor (huge difference) in improving your truck's reliability and performance. Your local transmission rebuilder will most likely be able to make this gear ratio conversion for you.

Replace your universal joints on both the front and rear driveshafts, while the axles are out of the truck.

Get a BlackBear or equivalent ECM and TCM modules tune. This tune will electrically eliminate the AFM, a know source of eventual engine failure. It will improve the longevity of the transmission, by adjusting the shift points to better align with the motor's torque curve, and eliminate rpm lugging, which damages both the motor and the transmission. A BlackBear tune is not a canned tune, but rather a custom tune for your truck, based on your desired parameters, and the tune can be done remotely by email, without removing any modules from your truck.

Again this will cost you some serious bucks, but it will transform your truck in ways that you can now only imagine.

EDIT: I've been advised that you have a 2WD truck. Even better, as you will only have to convert the rear differential to the 4.10 gear ratio.
 
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strutaeng

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H O Lee Molee! 3.08 and 35" tires! 70 MPH and your engine is lugging at 1400 RPM, where it is barely after idle and much, MUCH lower in the powerband range:

1789407397908.png


Even with 4.56s, you are cruising at around 2,000 RPM in 6th gear (still too low for passing power; transmission will want to downshift often).
1789407642046.png


The LS engines are pretty happy at 2300-2500RPM+ for moving a heavy, lifted vehicle or towing. This is 4.56 ratio running in 5th gear (if you do occasional highway cruising, this may be fine).
1789407768641.png


4.10s would be the absolute minimum ratio I would want to use. Play around with the numbers here before committing to something: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

 

Marky Dissod

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EVERY GMT800 GMT900 & GMTK2xx pickup truck & suv that came with anything less than 3.73 was shortchanged by GM OE.
CAFE MpG testing & scoring are heavily biased toward axle gears that are barely sufficient for anything other than unladen commuting on flat roads.
With tires over 32" tall 4.10 / 4.30 / 4.56 protect the engine & the transmission.
 

swathdiver

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So i just purchased a 2010 Yukon Xl that has a 6 inch lift and 35x12.5 wheels and tires all the way around. I know the transmission and torque converter and completely cooked. My question i keep being told by a couple shops is to go with a stage 2 transmission. But i was also told to go with an oem or stage one and change the rear gear ratio as it would make it much easier on the transmission with changing the gear ratio and would allow for better mpg in the long run. I don't know a lot about transmissions so i figured this would be the best place to get information/figure out which parts or gear ratio to go with. Thank you for reading and any help is greatly appreciated.

The term "stage 2 transmission" is meaningless. Have them spell it out EXACTLY what that entails and put it in writing.

When your truck had stock size tires on it, she was cruising at about 1,575 rpms at 70 mph. Now, with the 35s, she's cruising at about 1,422 rpms at 70 mph!

In stock trim, these trucks run great with 3.42 gears and turn about 1,749 rpms at 70 mph. That's your standard, not 1,575 @ 70.

So, having said that, 4.10 gears will have the engine turning 1,895 rpms at 70 mph. That like 3.73 gears on stock tires. A little more oompf off the line.

4.56 gears will have you turning 2,106 rpms at 70 mph. Once the engine and transmission are tuned for that gear, there's a good chance she'll smoke the tires off the line with 4.56s.

I have a truck with a 6.5" lift on 35s with factory 3.73s which are like running 3.42s. I mean to change it to 4.10s but it's not been a priority after 13 years!

In order to change gears in your current carrier, you'll need an adapter. I know people that have used them without issue, or they never fessed up. I believe the better option is to change to the larger carrier that runs 3.42 gears and lower (higher numerically) since you are running those heavy 35s.

If yours were mine, I'd ditch that little 8.6" axle and use the 9.5" 14-Bolt axle from a RWD Denali or Escalade with the "AXN" RPO Code. I did this with my Yukon XL a few years and swapped from 3.42 gears to 3.73s. They can often be purchased for about $200-300 from LKQ salvage yards and most don't need much more than new seals and the gear swap. Mine was zero timed.

Every pound of reciprocating weight you add to the tire/wheel assembly is like adding 8.4 pounds to your payload. For example, your 35s may weigh 30 pounds more than the stock setup and that's like adding almost 1,000 to your payload. My pickups at the track with their stock 6.2s put down 375 rear wheel horsepower through the traps in the quarter mile. With the heavier tires they lost 50 horsepower (325 RWHP)! Now image the kind of power lost to your 5.3 at the wheels because of all that weight. As my daughter used to say, "smiles per gallon, Dad!" Yeah, I was paying for her fuel back then! LOL

Stock Size Tires and Current Gears Example:
1789436745300.png


35s and 4.10 gears Example:
1789436639822.png
 
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WinterStone

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Yeah see i just purchased the yukon from a gentlemen i work with who purchased it with the 35's already on it. He couldn't figure out why the transmission and torque converter kept going out. They went through 2 transmissions and 3 torque converters in the span of 3 months and had no idea why so he was at a loss and just wanted it gone, however he was told by the original buyer that the gear ratio was a 3.73 so he never questioned it but he didn't know what the rpo codes were or how to look them up. So i'm basically coming into this trying to fix everybody else's screw ups and get this thing up and running nicely for my wife. Which is when i checked the RPO code and realized it was a 3.08 and thats probably what was killing it so fast. But i do greatly appreciate all the help and will defiantly be putting the time and money into fixing it up right and taking the time to do all the repairs that were advised while having everything taken apart. But thankfully i'm currently only into this thing for $300 so i have the money to fix it up nicely so as long as my wife has the patience
 
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WinterStone

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So, running boards, stepladder, or leap of faith to get in and out?
I really need some good running boards that sit a bit lower if yall know any good ones? But no this girl is used to climbing into tractors and lifted trucks she does fine it’s the kids and everybody else who can’t get into it
 

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