What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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mikez71

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You're probably just hearing a little rear end/driveline clunk then.
My bad mount was like a nudge/thud because the engine was moving around, then bottoms out.
 

Joseph Garcia

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So the question remains, on your 2007-2014 are you running the solid H2 motor mounts or the liquid filled? Because there’s a noticeable difference in the two when used on these vehicles.
I installed H3 motor mounts (NOT H2) on both sides, and I am very happy with them. I do not notice any increased vibration inside the truck (the purpose for the fluid filled motor mounts), and I know that they will outlast the truck itself. Once and done.
 

Joseph Garcia

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front diff mounts usually if equipped
Yup. I chased that clunk, and even fired the parts cannon to get rid of it. All to no avail. But once on the lift with my Mechanic going over the entire undercarriage with a stethoscope, it ended up being the front differential mounts (metal arms with pre-installed bushings). Once replaced, no more clunk.
 

mikez71

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I installed H3 motor mounts (NOT H2) on both sides, and I am very happy with them. I do not notice any increased vibration inside the truck (the purpose for the fluid filled motor mounts), and I know that they will outlast the truck itself. Once and done.
H3 mounts #25847739, I initially reported some slight vibrations in park/neutral at idle... because I forgot to tighten one motor mount!
Haven't noticed it since. The fact they are more durable, I'm still glad I installed them despite the rip-off prices.

1 at a time is a great way to go! Especially since you save nothing doing them at the same time.
(other than not having to do the other side in the future, which you likely don't need the passenger side anyway)

Great info on the front diff mounts! I better buy new mounts when I swap the front diff...
Planning to do oilpan and o-ring while it's out..
 
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Charlie207

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Guess I better buy new mounts when I swap the front diff!

Planning to do oilpan and o-ring while it's out..
The front diff weighs like 109lbs. So, plan to use a jack or something unless you're dumb and brave. I just muscled it up into position and started threading whatever nut or bolt I could reach with my free hand.

It's shape is so awkward that it kept falling off my jack. A buddy who owes you a favor is probably the best way to get it done.

If you're just doing the bushings/mounts, you can lower one side at a time with a jack, and keep the other side loosened most of the way, but still attached.
 

mikez71

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The front diff weighs like 109lbs. So, plan to use a jack or something unless you're dumb and brave. I just muscled it up into position and started threading whatever nut or bolt I could reach with my free hand.

It's shape is so awkward that it kept falling off my jack. A buddy who owes you a favor is probably the best way to get it done.

If you're just doing the bushings/mounts, you can lower one side at a time with a jack, and keep the other side loosened most of the way, but still attached.
Thanks for that. I need to swap a different ratio I have purchased already.
Feels OK moving it around on the ground, but I was afraid it might slip off a floor jack, because I've seen a pic or two of a broken axle housing..

Will buy a cheap transmission jack if I need to.. ($125 harbor freight)
Looking at other transmission jacks.. they look like an engine stand mount bolted to the floor jack.
I might try and fashion one up, since I have 3 'scrap' engine stands out in the back yard..
Ohh but they have tilt adjustment.. Hopefully not necessary if I make the saddle fit the diff right..

Don't think I'll try muscling anything anymore.
Back still stiff from just swapping wheels.. I need to quit playing call of duty, and work out some I suppose..
 

alpha_omega

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New billet and carbon badge.

IMG_2400.jpeg

Time for a bath and to take the pup for a ride. Anyone with bench seats found a cover that holds up over time? Zippers usually are the first to go.
 

Charlie207

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Swapped out the old Taylor 10mm spark plug wires for some (fire-breathing Amazon specials) 8.5mm Dragon Fire wires.

Here's what the busted coil connector looked like in the Taylor.

1000011714.jpg

1000011713.jpg


In hindsight, I should have ordered wires with straight boots on n the plug-side, and not the 135° boots.

When I have some free time I'll test the resistance on the old wires. There was some weirdness happening with the single wire I tested.
 

Sir_Hiro

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Swapped out the old Taylor 10mm spark plug wires for some (fire-breathing Amazon specials) 8.5mm Dragon Fire wires.

Here's what the busted coil connector looked like in the Taylor.

View attachment 472767
View attachment 472768

In hindsight, I should have ordered wires with straight boots on n the plug-side, and not the 135° boots.

When I have some free time I'll test the resistance on the old wires. There was some weirdness happening with the single wire I tested.
Is that a Catch Can hanging off the Alt?
 

j91z28d1

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I did the Dorman replacement upper dash panel thing. and put some epoxy on the underside of the cracks in the main dash.

man tust got back quickly. I had tired to brace the middle speaker but I guess it didn't hold, that speaker is just way to heavy to be hanging from old brittle plastic. so I removed it.

cracks still look bad but at least it got rid of the rattles over bumps. I really don't want to do that glue on dash pad, but looking like I'll have to at some point.
 

alpha_omega

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Thanks for that. I need to swap a different ratio I have purchased already.
Feels OK moving it around on the ground, but I was afraid it might slip off a floor jack, because I've seen a pic or two of a broken axle housing..

Will buy a cheap transmission jack if I need to.. ($125 harbor freight)
Looking at other transmission jacks.. they look like an engine stand mount bolted to the floor jack.
I might try and fashion one up, since I have 3 'scrap' engine stands out in the back yard..
Ohh but they have tilt adjustment.. Hopefully not necessary if I make the saddle fit the diff right..

Don't think I'll try muscling anything anymore.
Back still stiff from just swapping wheels.. I need to quit playing call of duty, and work out some I suppose..
Like you I attempted the same foolishly. A chunk of 4x4 and a bungee cord kept it precariously stable while I fumbled for the fasteners.
 

alpha_omega

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Is that a Catch Can hanging off the Alt?
Yesir. One of the easier places to mount them when the time comes to clean them out. Gives you plenty of space to put a collection pan or spill it all over everything if you’re good at making a mess. Hopefully you don’t have that much oil in there.
 

the_tool_man

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So the question remains, on your 2007-2014 are you running the solid H2 motor mounts or the liquid filled? Because there’s a noticeable difference in the two when used on these vehicles.
When my DS mount failed, I bought two H3 mounts (PN 25847739) and a transmission mount, intending to replace all three. After replacing DS, and seeing how much more effort it would take to do the PS one, I put that off. Almost five years later, it's still in the box. At some point, I'll need to replace the starter, or get tired of the exhaust leak from the broken manifold bolt, and I'll dig in there and fix it all at once. Or at the rate prices are rising, I'll sell the unused one for 4X what I paid. As others have said, the PS one just sees compression (even in reverse!).
 

the_tool_man

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Those of you with the tall Escalade looking rear brake/tail lights, what brand are you using and has it required and modification, or was it plug and play?
I bought aftermarket Escalade taillights on Amazon (the OG LED style, not the ones that run all the way up the D pillar). They came with plug-n-play 4-pin plugs and plugged right in. They also included resistors for the turn signals so they wouldn't hyper-flash. OEM Escalade taillights use a five-pin connector that won't fit Tahoe or Yukon without modification. The ones I got six years ago are NLA. But you get the idea:


Be advised, the shape of Escalade taillights is different. To really complete the look, you need to replace the D pillar appliques above them. The mismatch isn't terrible, but it is noticeable. After buying used from here and having my DIY paint fade too quickly, I ended up finding a used OEM pair from an Escalade the same color as my Yukon.

Yukon vs Escalade Taillight.jpg
 

Sir_Hiro

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I bought aftermarket Escalade taillights on Amazon (the OG LED style, not the ones that run all the way up the D pillar). They came with plug-n-play 4-pin plugs and plugged right in. They also included resistors for the turn signals so they wouldn't hyper-flash. OEM Escalade taillights use a five-pin connector that won't fit Tahoe or Yukon without modification. The ones I got six years ago are NLA. But you get the idea:


Be advised, the shape of Escalade taillights is different. To really complete the look, you need to replace the D pillar appliques above them. The mismatch isn't terrible, but it is noticeable. After buying used from here and having my DIY paint fade too quickly, I ended up finding a used OEM pair from an Escalade the same color as my Yukon.

View attachment 472808
I like these more than the Full D-Pillar one. I also like the 2015 Yukon Style ones to.
 
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