What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Wes
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On second thought, it's gonna take some more enginerding than I want to get into right now, bummer.

The crossover pipe that runs along the transmission cross member is not parallel to the cross member, so there's not enough space to install the vband where I want to.

Plus, I'd have to pull the headers off the block, and I'm too lazy to do that today.
I had the muffler shop install one of those on the exit end of the y-pipe because the factory flat band one suckz ballz leaks and doesn't hold the pipe sturdy, the v band works great
 

Charlie207

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Defided to swap the big boy back in for now. The smaller diameter QW muffler and the bullet sound great, but are too loud. I'll keep messing around for a way to keep the good tone, but lower the roar. (Disregard the booger welds.)

1000010567.jpg
 

the_tool_man

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any chance you can link them? Amazon has so many I don't know which would fit

Technically, they don't fit. The existing holes in the factory bezel aren't quite big enough. This is easily fixed by wrapping a piece of sandpaper around a dowel and opening up the hole slightly. The more challenging part is cutting out the partition to allow the nut to fit without getting cockeyed in there. See the pics in my post. I used a small drill bit to make some holes. Then I used a hobby knife to cut between them and make the rough opening. I finished it off with a small file. If you're really good with a Dremel, you could use that. Or if you have a hot knife, that's probably the easiest way to do it. Mine's in a box somewhere, so I did it a different way. Just go slow. Keep in mind the nut only needs to sit straight when fully tight. So the opening only needs to be slightly thicker than the nut. You don't want to take out too much and lose structural integrity.
 

j91z28d1

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Technically, they don't fit. The existing holes in the factory bezel aren't quite big enough. This is easily fixed by wrapping a piece of sandpaper around a dowel and opening up the hole slightly. The more challenging part is cutting out the partition to allow the nut to fit without getting cockeyed in there. See the pics in my post. I used a small drill bit to make some holes. Then I used a hobby knife to cut between them and make the rough opening. I finished it off with a small file. If you're really good with a Dremel, you could use that. Or if you have a hot knife, that's probably the easiest way to do it. Mine's in a box somewhere, so I did it a different way. Just go slow. Keep in mind the nut only needs to sit straight when fully tight. So the opening only needs to be slightly thicker than the nut. You don't want to take out too much and lose structural integrity.


cool. I'll see what I can do. seems nice to have fast charging and the black cover on the stock stuff is broken and just sticks on somehow haha.
 

j91z28d1

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Defided to swap the big boy back in for now. The smaller diameter QW muffler and the bullet sound great, but are too loud. I'll keep messing around for a way to keep the good tone, but lower the roar. (Disregard the booger welds.)

View attachment 466515


exhaust is so hard to get a good sound and not be annoying in the morning on the way to work. I feel like. everything should be valved by now that opens under a set load and closes when idling around.
 

John18A

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Picked up a 2013 Suburban Z71 in Houston two weeks ago. Didn't do all this today, but i replaced the front armrests (both were broken all the way through), oil and filter change, replaced the front exterior door handles (paint chipped and worn off), and swapped in a Sony head unit so I have CarPlay. I really love this truck, it's perfect for what I need.

Transmission seems to run a little hotter than I would like, I've hit 210 just running down the interstate at 70mph with no load. And the suspension feels terrible so I need to figure that out. I feel every single bump in the road,, pretty harsh. It has Bilstein 5100s all the way around, but I'm unsure what springs.

But I am having a blast driving it and wrenching on it.
 

j91z28d1

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Picked up a 2013 Suburban Z71 in Houston two weeks ago. Didn't do all this today, but i replaced the front armrests (both were broken all the way through), oil and filter change, replaced the front exterior door handles (paint chipped and worn off), and swapped in a Sony head unit so I have CarPlay. I really love this truck, it's perfect for what I need.

Transmission seems to run a little hotter than I would like, I've hit 210 just running down the interstate at 70mph with no load. And the suspension feels terrible so I need to figure that out. I feel every single bump in the road,, pretty harsh. It has Bilstein 5100s all the way around, but I'm unsure what springs.

But I am having a blast driving it and wrenching on it.


best mod I did for better ride over these washboard tx roads was went from the older Michelin Defender tires that was on it when I got it to the new Continental's people recommended here and it helped a ton. I don't even feel stuff that would rattle the plastic before.

but I do have the 18in wheels not 22s, so more sidewall and the oem 2011 mag ride. not apples to apple, but if you're on old tires, before dumping lots into replacing shocks and springs. don't ruel out a nice new set of tires.
 

Sir_Hiro

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I'll be attempting some of these after painting and packing for the new house. 3" V-bands, to try and solve the problem of accessing the ATF pan easier.

View attachment 466491

Nothing like getting knee-deep into a side-project, while already drowning in a bigger project!
How does the quality feel on those? I'm redoing the exhaust on my C10 and wanna make the backhalf removable but I've never messed with V band clamps before.
 

Sir_Hiro

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exhaust is so hard to get a good sound and not be annoying in the morning on the way to work. I feel like. everything should be valved by now that opens under a set load and closes when idling around.
Magnaflow Magnapaks are the only Mufflers I'll run. They IMO have the perfect balance between tone and loudness. Ofc length or pipe diameter of pipe also makes a difference to.
 

Charlie207

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How does the quality feel on those? I'm redoing the exhaust on my C10 and wanna make the backhalf removable but I've never messed with V band clamps before.
Great question. They appear to be decent, heavy, and perfectly mate with the 3" tubing from the Speed Engineering headers. I do like how these V-bands come with male >> female flanges. I've had V-bands on turbo cars in the past that didn't have the lips, and relied 100% ok n the clamps to keep the sections of exhaust supported.

Dave Chappelle (from the old Dirt Everyday, and now Dirt Daily YT channel) mentioned them in some of his videos, and he's a fairly legit baller on a budget, so if he thinks they're an ok brand, that's good enough for me to try.
 

j91z28d1

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Technically, they don't fit. The existing holes in the factory bezel aren't quite big enough. This is easily fixed by wrapping a piece of sandpaper around a dowel and opening up the hole slightly. The more challenging part is cutting out the partition to allow the nut to fit without getting cockeyed in there. See the pics in my post. I used a small drill bit to make some holes. Then I used a hobby knife to cut between them and make the rough opening. I finished it off with a small file. If you're really good with a Dremel, you could use that. Or if you have a hot knife, that's probably the easiest way to do it. Mine's in a box somewhere, so I did it a different way. Just go slow. Keep in mind the nut only needs to sit straight when fully tight. So the opening only needs to be slightly thicker than the nut. You don't want to take out too much and lose structural integrity.




not bad install. left one side keyed power other side always on with the switch. Hopefully I don't regret that haha. get left on, put the black cover on and not know it's on haha. phone days rapid charging on all the USB c ports. should be helpful on trips
 

Sir_Hiro

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Great question. They appear to be decent, heavy, and perfectly mate with the 3" tubing from the Speed Engineering headers. I do like how these V-bands come with male >> female flanges. I've had V-bands on turbo cars in the past that didn't have the lips, and relied 100% ok n the clamps to keep the sections of exhaust supported.

Dave Chappelle (from the old Dirt Everyday, and now Dirt Daily YT channel) mentioned them in some of his videos, and he's a fairly legit baller on a budget, so if he thinks they're an ok brand, that's good enough for me to try.
If they good for Dirt Head Dave I might have to order me some for the C10
 

mikez71

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got some suspension bits in..
IMG_0573.jpeg


Planning on:

Delphi control arms
timken hubs
kyb monomax shocks

edelmann steering rack (3.0 turns lock to lock) and delphi tie rod ends..

need to send a delphi control arm back because the plastic cap cut into the dust boot..
IMG_0572.jpeg
 

kbuskill

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got some suspension bits in..
View attachment 466628

Planning on:

Delphi control arms
timken hubs
kyb monomax shocks

edelmann steering rack (3.0 turns lock to lock) and delphi tie rod ends..

need to send a delphi control arm back because the plastic cap cut into the dust boot..
View attachment 466627
Just got through installing the KYB Monomax struts and shocks on all 4 corners of the Burb. I like them pretty good so far.

I just bought the bare struts and swapped my springs over with new rubber insulators and what not.
 

mikez71

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Good to hear!
The instructions claim the springs could look different, and be a different material than stock, so it's a little gamble as to how they will feel..

Greaseable joints felt crude on the moogs, and I knackered a couple balljoints while swapping lift spacers, so I'm going to give delphi arms a whirl.
Will update with pics when I get a complete set in front of me..
 

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