What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Charlie207]

yeah, I read somewhere that Stan bought out everyone and changed the name moto rad or something like that. I have 2 but they felt cheap and I wanted the 170deg stat that no one made. mine was the smaller 08 and down size. so that limited stuff too. I had to combine 2 and tack weld some stuff. not something normal people would do haha.

I agree with the timing thou, everyone says there's no power in a cooler water temp, but the tune definitely shows at least the oem was worried about timing vs coolent temp. I've left the stock 187 in the yukon cause eh, hybrid and all. hp isn't really a big deal. I only went down the rabbit hole for the ls3 car. I didn't want to go full 160 because I do drive it or least did drive it on cold days, but 180 seemed pointless when 187 is stock. 170 seemed about right. rule of thumb seems to be the stat in the inlet side runs about 15deg hotter on adv than the actual head water temp. it was a lot easier with a Gen 2 sbc on the out let side and the engine just ran the temp of the stat.


the Lingenfelter is definitely just a Motorrad. Just reboxed.

Maybe I missed it, but is there a drop-in thermostat for our water pumps that works to prevent timing being pulled?

 

[mikez71]

Motorad has some thermostats in 160, 174, 180, and 187. (And 190)

I tried the 174.. It opens enough to drop temp at 188, and closes at 186.

Today it was 92 out, and I could hold temp at 188 when cruising @30mph.
Don't think it will maintain much lower than that and in hotter weather and more load, who knows.
I'll set my fan to come on at 194 for now.

 

[j91z28d1]

Maybe I missed it, but is there a drop-in thermostat for our water pumps that works to prevent timing being pulled?

hard to say without logging your specific truck but a 180 shouldn't hurt anything and should lower a bit with fan turn on temp change, or if you drive around with ac on all the time, then ac is harder to cold than coolent just cruising around town.

 

[the_tool_man]

I can't bring myself to toss the Chiwanese headlights. Recall the internal harness connector cooked itself a while back. I decided to repair it with a connector kit I bought.

Shorted/melted Molex connector:

New pins crimped:

Female connector done:

Completed replacement connector:

They're a Deutsch connector knockoff, and supposed to be good for 20A, though the pins look a little small for that. It should be good enough for headlights that use less than 10A. I figure I'll put it back together, polish and clear the lenses, and play with some LED bulbs to see if I can live with them. If not, at least they'll be worth more as a functional pair if I sell them.

 

[mikez71]

...rule of thumb seems to be the stat in the inlet side runs about 15deg hotter on adv than the actual head water temp. it was a lot easier with a Gen 2 sbc on the out let side and the engine just ran the temp of the stat.

the Lingenfelter is definitely just a Motorrad. Just reboxed.

Speaking of which, I looked at my receipt, and I actually have the 174 degree Motorad (Lingenfelter spec)
Who knows if it was returned/boxed wrong or whatever, as I didn't look for any markings on the t'stat itself...
But, that might explain why people are disappointed if they wanted the 174 to not equal 188 engine temp.

 

[JoeBlobs]

I can't bring myself to toss the Chiwanese headlights. Recall the harness cooked itself a while back. I decided to repair it with a connector kit I bought.

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They're a Deutsch connector knockoff, and supposed to be good for 20A, though the pins look a little small for that. It should be good enough for headlights that use less than 10A. I figure I'll put it back together, polish and clear the lenses, and play with some LED bulbs to see if I can live with them. If not, at least they'll be worth more as a functional pair.

Definitely a better option with the Deutsch connector. Where'd you find those guys? Amazon?

 

[the_tool_man]

Definitely a better option with the Deutsch connector. Where'd you find those guys? Amazon?

Yeah, I got a kit with crimpers for $30 on Amazon. There are dozens of different ones. I'm picking up some 3M VHB tape to stick the connector to the structure inside the light so it won't flop around.

 

[Doubeleive]

dropped it off at 4wheel parts, something in the rearend they installed is making noise on deceleration just started happening a few days ago, I suspect the pinion.

 

[PG01]

dropped it off at 4wheel parts, something in the rearend they installed is making noise on deceleration just started happening a few days ago, I suspect the pinion.

I suspect they better fix it…

 

[Doubeleive]

I suspect they better fix it…

I bought the 5 yr extended warranty so yep, I will be surprised if it is anything else. the only other thing it could be is the transfer case but the noise is coming from the rear and you can hear it making a slower rhythmic gear noise which I don't think the transfer case would do.

 

[j91z28d1]

Speaking of which, I looked at my receipt, and I actually have the 174 degree Motorad (Lingenfelter spec)
Who knows if it was returned/boxed wrong or whatever, as I didn't look for any markings on the t'stat itself...
But, that might explain why people are disappointed if they wanted the 174 to not equal 188 engine temp.

Definitely, forget where I saw it, but a listing showed one temp, and if I zoomed in on the pick could clearly see it was the not the same. the motorad is way inside down in the hole at the bottom.

 

[SpareParts]

Had this vinyl sitting around for a while and finally got around to this project i wanted to try.
It's an ok match to the original but not perfect. If it lasts, i'll try to find a better match and redo it later. For now its ok with me.

 

[Doubeleive]

confirmed pinion bearing at minimum, confirmed covered under warranty. there still tearing it down to inspect and get a parts list.

 

[j91z28d1]

Had this vinyl sitting around for a while and finally got around to this project i wanted to try.
It's an ok match to the original but not perfect. If it lasts, i'll try to find a better match and redo it later. For now its ok with me.

View attachment 463759

looks better than the factory fuax wood to me.

on that note, buying that 4 cup holding and throwing the stock setup away was one of the best mods lol.

 

[SpareParts]

The factory look is what i want!
The doors were broke on the stock one and it was about useless anyway. Replaced it with a stock Chevy part and added the other cupholder. WAY more useful.

 

[alpha_omega]

I usually reference used or pulled parts from ebay to verify where clips and bolts are located on the backside of things
this listing may help in your case or maybe others I just put in 2012 yukon fuse box into search. not sure what angle you need.

Solid idea. Thank you.
As often as I use eBay it’s funny how easily things slip through the mind such as an idea this simple yet effective. I took photos, but don’t have the wire routing in detail or clips and whatnot.
Obviously the manual (book) and the charm website data is a catch-all and while it has some relevant photos, most of it applies as a blanket for multiple years, makes, models, engine configurations…etc.

 

[alpha_omega]

Installed Dorman aluminium(british accent) heater T's. 1 year old SKP T's came off no problem, but the Dorman hoses left their clip on the T. One spilled its o-rings and spacers. Think I got them back in right... Also replaced small sections of wiring loom that had disintegrated.


Replaced my 2 year old OEM thermostat that seems to stick. Slapped a Motorad 180 deg in there. Old one opened up (fully?) anywhere from 194 to 203 degrees. So far this Motorad seemes to drop temp around 188 deg. I will try a lower fan-on temp like maybe 195. (factory fan 1 on temp is ~201 degF)

Think I found the sticking point on the GM thermostat.

Do you have a p/n for that thermostat?

And you don’t have to use the British accent, some of us grew up pronouncing it that way. The number of strange looks I’ve received over the years. Usually at first people think I’m joking with them. Some have looked it up, others prob think the university degrees hanging in my office are honorary. Ha! Honestly it’s hard to pronounce it like they do in America. I have to slow myself down to pronounce it “incorrectly”.

That OEM stat was sticking from the start. Costs 3x what others cost!
Even though it was within normal operating range, the variability made me worry it might stick for good someday.

So far the Motorad is consistently at 188 degrees where I notice the temp dropping for the first time.


ECT modifier for spark timing shows upto -3 degrees at 212F coolant temp and 0 degrees at 194F.
So at 203F there would be upto -1.5 degree of timing pulled.
Looks like staying between 176-194 should be 0 timing pulled (or added).

I agree with the timing thou, everyone says there's no power in a cooler water temp, but the tune definitely shows at least the oem was worried about timing vs coolent temp. I've left the stock 187 in the yukon cause eh, hybrid and all. hp isn't really a big deal.

Can one of you give a quick run down on that timing and how it’s pulled/added +/- with the temp?

 

[alpha_omega]

I bought the 5 yr extended warranty so yep, I will be surprised if it is anything else. the only other thing it could be is the transfer case but the noise is coming from the rear and you can hear it making a slower rhythmic gear noise which I don't think the transfer case would do.

Think it might be the bearing race for the pinion yoke? Or does it sound more internal?

Edit: looks like you found the answer before we armchair diagnosed it. Disregard the need to respond.

Mine is in need of the same thing. Not something I feel like doing myself. Plus I’m debating going with a different AWD 3.42 ring gear setup.

 

[the_tool_man]

Had this vinyl sitting around for a while and finally got around to this project i wanted to try.
It's an ok match to the original but not perfect. If it lasts, i'll try to find a better match and redo it later. For now its ok with me.

View attachment 463759

That looks pretty nice. I, too, ditched my Denali cupholder and installed the Chevy tray. I used carbon fiber wrap, but it hasn't held up well. I wrapped the side walls of the tray (I'm only using one cupholder), and the summer heat has shrunk the film so that it has pulled away from the inside corners. When I redo it, I may go your route and only wrap the top. Same story on the piece in the center armrest. The recessed area requires a lot of stretching of the film, and it eventually shrinks and pulls loose. I may try hydro dipping. There are plenty of tutorials and DIY kits out there. But getting a match with the rest of the interior will be tough.

 

[SpareParts]

I did not want to even attempt going further with the wrap with my no skill level. The only stretching i did was around the 4 outside corners.
It was actually very easy to do.