Brake pad cost….

[Chickensandwich]

I’m amazed at what a dealership charges for brake pads for my 21 Ppv. $500 per set! What???

I tried getting them from an online GM source who were supposed to be “Giants”, well, I ordered 2 sets or rotors, 2 sets of pads, GREAT prices, however…. The rear rotors did not fit (correct part number), and they never sent the brake pads. The truck is at the dealership taken apart, in the air, so I’m stuck with their prices. All prices were DOUBLED at the dealership. This disturbed me. Even the rotors were 2x the price. I will say that the hassle of this whole event was NOT worth the savings. I tried to save a couple bucks, and it backfired. Now I have RMAs to deal with, rotors to ship back, and nothing but a migraine to show for it. The whole cost was going to be $300 to install everything, now my bill is $1500 thanks to that GM GIANT screwing up my order. Rant over.

 

[SpareParts]

Rock Auto is your friend!

 

[Doubeleive]

I’m amazed at what a dealership charges for brake pads for my 21 Ppv. $500 per set! What???

I tried getting them from an online GM source who were supposed to be “Giants”, well, I ordered 2 sets or rotors, 2 sets of pads, GREAT prices, however…. The rear rotors did not fit (correct part number), and they never sent the brake pads. The truck is at the dealership taken apart, in the air, so I’m stuck with their prices. All prices were DOUBLED at the dealership. This disturbed me. Even the rotors were 2x the price. I will say that the hassle of this whole event was NOT worth the savings. I tried to save a couple bucks, and it backfired. Now I have RMAs to deal with, rotors to ship back, and nothing but a migraine to show for it. The whole cost was going to be $300 to install everything, now my bill is $1500 thanks to that GM GIANT screwing up my order. Rant over.

whats even worse is you could have drove to autozone and bought everything you need for a decent price and left with a lifetime warranty on the pads and never have to pay for them again.
just because it is ppv doesn't mean anything,. you just use semi metallic pads for the same results as oem ppv pads, although ceramic will last longer and make less dust.
one initial investment and future brake jobs are virtually free unless you mess up the rotors.

 

[swathdiver]

whats even worse is you could have drove to autozone and bought everything you need for a decent price and left with a lifetime warranty on the pads and never have to pay for them again.
just because it is ppv doesn't mean anything,. you just use semi metallic pads for the same results as oem ppv pads, although ceramic will last longer and make less dust.
one initial investment and future brake jobs are virtually free unless you mess up the rotors.

How long do the AutoZone pads last? We get 80K plus on OE pads on the Yukon XL and over 100K on the pickups with the exact same pads.

 

[Doubeleive]

How long do the AutoZone pads last? We get 80K plus on OE pads on the Yukon XL and over 100K on the pickups with the exact same pads.

for me less~~~~
but that's not because of the pads it's because of how I drive, they equal or outlast oem in that regard by a smidge.
The Silverado pads of course last me longer as well because of the weight distribution
I have to break it down into brake pad type
composite pads last me around 6 months
semi-metallic pads last me approx 1 year
ceramic pads pads last me around 1.5 year's
thus I buy the autozone pads because I go thru them so quickly, replacement pads are free
those $499 brake jobs are ludicrous for me, my rear pads I just did cost me $0.0 and 20-25 minutes of my time.

*didn't have to go sit in a room for 2 hours or god knows how long...
*didn't have to shell out $500 (that's a conservative dealer price based on if the dealer could turn the rotors or not, because they can't legally just slap pads on)
*** win/win

 

[ReaperHWK]

You can also get powerstop pads and rotors. They seem to be a good aftermarket option and they are ceramic with very little dust.

 

[swathdiver]

For those running aftermarket pads, it would be great to know what your stopping distance is so we can compare it to the OE pads.

Last time I checked, the Yukon XL was still stopping from 60 mph between 130 and 140 feet if memory serves.

 

[Doubeleive]

For those running aftermarket pads, it would be great to know what your stopping distance is so we can compare it to the OE pads.

Last time I checked, the Yukon XL was still stopping from 60 mph between 130 and 140 feet if memory serves.

your going to get mixed results... so many variables
tires, psi, temperature, weight, road type, reaction time, brake pedal pressure.
new pads, used pads, brake fluid, hydroboost? so on so forth
all I can say is I haven't read-ended somebody in a really long time, knock on wood.....
*pro tip don't be rubber necking looking at the cute chicks in the car next to you in heavy traffic........

 

[Tonyv__]

I’m amazed at what a dealership charges for brake pads for my 21 Ppv. $500 per set! What???

I tried getting them from an online GM source who were supposed to be “Giants”, well, I ordered 2 sets or rotors, 2 sets of pads, GREAT prices, however…. The rear rotors did not fit (correct part number), and they never sent the brake pads. The truck is at the dealership taken apart, in the air, so I’m stuck with their prices. All prices were DOUBLED at the dealership. This disturbed me. Even the rotors were 2x the price. I will say that the hassle of this whole event was NOT worth the savings. I tried to save a couple bucks, and it backfired. Now I have RMAs to deal with, rotors to ship back, and nothing but a migraine to show for it. The whole cost was going to be $300 to install everything, now my bill is $1500 thanks to that GM GIANT screwing up my order. Rant over.

Aren’t the 21 ppvs the big brakes though? So assuming the dealer is selling you Brembo brakes? I could be wrong

 

[swathdiver]

your going to get mixed results... so many variables
tires, psi, temperature, weight, road type, reaction time, brake pedal pressure.
new pads, used pads, brake fluid, hydroboost? so on so forth
all I can say is I haven't read-ended somebody in a really long time, knock on wood.....
*pro tip don't be rubber necking looking at the cute chicks in the car next to you in heavy traffic........

Right, they would have to check and write that stuff down. I know my pedal pressure is over 1000 pounds and the reaction time is taken care of by the VC-2000 I use and can also use the feature in the Torque Pro app. Tires also play a huge roll in stopping distance too.

 

[Marky Dissod]

For those running aftermarket pads, it would be great to know what your stopping distance is so we can compare it to the OE pads.
Last time I checked, the Yukon XL was still stopping from 60MpH between 130 and 140 ft, if memory serves.

Problem with this idea, is that tires are a MAJOR variable.
I find the following generally true (although mine tend to last longer because NYC traffic is developmentally challenged):

... to break it down into brake pad type
composite pads last me around 6 months
semi-metallic pads last me approx 1 year
ceramic pads pads last me around 1.5 years ...

Found that ceramic pads have almost no initial bite, more like they're initially 'gumming' the rotors,
which makes it almost too easy to avoid complaints from riders.
Carbon metallic pads (ppv-type) initially chomp down hard enough to make riders think I'm even more of a jerk than I actually am,
even when I'm trying very hard to be gentle and progressive with my braking.

Willing to bet that carbon metallic pads would have slightly shorter stopping distances compared to ceramic pads.

 

[Doubeleive]

Problem with this idea, is that tires are a MAJOR variable.
I find the following generally true (although mine tend to last longer because NYC traffic is developmentally challenged):

Found that ceramic pads have almost no initial bite, more like they're initially 'gumming' the rotors,
which makes it almost too easy to avoid complaints from riders.
Carbon metallic pads (ppv-type) initially chomp down hard enough to make riders think I'm even more of a jerk than I actually am,
even when I'm trying very hard to be gentle and progressive with my braking.

Willing to bet that carbon metallic pads would have slightly shorter stopping distances compared to ceramic pads.

They make carbon-fiber but there god awful dusty and noisy

 

[vcode]

your going to get mixed results... so many variables
tires, psi, temperature, weight, road type, reaction time, brake pedal pressure.
new pads, used pads, brake fluid, hydroboost? so on so forth
all I can say is I haven't read-ended somebody in a really long time, knock on wood.....
*pro tip don't be rubber necking looking at the cute chicks in the car next to you in heavy traffic........

If you are activating the ABS during a panic stop, it is pretty much up to the tires grip I would think. Now if you are hauling 5000 lbs down a steep grade and fade is an issue, well then other things would come into play.

 

[Doubeleive]

If you are activating the ABS during a panic stop, it is pretty much up to the tires grip I would think. Now if you are hauling 5000 lbs down a steep grade and fade is an issue, well then other things would come into play.

ABS activation is going to depend on speed, angle, detected wheel slip and who knows what else.

 

[Chickensandwich]

I prefer to stay OEM

 

[vcode]

ABS activation is going to depend on speed, angle, detected wheel slip and who knows what else.

All I am saying is that if ABS is activated during the entire duration of a stop, brake size or pad composition will have no (or very little) effect on stopping distance. Tire traction is the limiting factor. All bets are off however if brake fade due to repeated stops or high speeds are involved and ABS can't be activated for all or part of the stop.

 

[Doubeleive]

All I am saying is that if ABS is activated during the entire duration of a stop, brake size or pad composition will have no (or very little) effect on stopping distance. Tire traction is the limiting factor. All bets are off however if brake fade due to repeated stops or high speeds are involved and ABS can't be activated for all or part of the stop.

sorry but you are incorrect, go try it with barely any to no pad (any type) and then again with new fresh pads.
ABS isn't magic, same with fresh tires versus bald tires. ABS is a factor but not the only one by far.

 

[vcode]

sorry but you are incorrect, go try it with barely any to no pad (any type) and then again with new fresh pads.
ABS isn't magic, same with fresh tires versus bald tires. ABS is a factor but not the only one by far.

This has been discussed numerous times on many forums. If the brakes are strong enough to activate the ABS, it's the coefficient of friction of the tires to the pavement that is the only thing that determines stopping distance. At that point nothing else matters. The only other variable is the time it takes from stomping on the brake pedal to activating the ABS, which yeah could be a factor if your pads are gone and you are running steel on steel.

 

[Marky Dissod]

If the brakes are strong enough to activate the ABS, it's the coefficient of friction of the tires to the pavement that is the only thing that determines stopping distance.
At that point nothing else matters.

This is why tire selection is at least as important (if not moreso) as brake pad choice.

The only other variable is the time it takes from stomping on the brake pedal to activating the ABS,
which yeah could be a factor if your pads are gone and you are running steel on steel.

There are an increasing number of vehicles that use different techniques to either:
bringing the 'pad' (assuming it has not worn down to the rivets / bonding) closer to the rotor,
so that the rotor gets a head start (also keeps the rotor drier)
increase the rate of speed at which the gap is closed -
some brake systems can determine that you did not brake hard / fast enough, and make up the difference

 

[vcode]

This is why tire selection is at least as important (if not moreso) as brake pad choice.

There are an increasing number of vehicles that use different techniques to either:
bringing the 'pad' (assuming it has not worn down to the rivets / bonding) closer to the rotor,
so that the rotor gets a head start (also keeps the rotor drier)
increase the rate of speed at which the gap is closed -
some brake systems can determine that you did not brake hard / fast enough, and make up the difference

Putting different pads or bigger brakes on a new Tahoe isn't going to magically decrease your stopping distance by 10 or 20%. As any braking engineer will tell you, the brakes stop the tires but the tires stop the car.