GM - 15741217 (camber plate)
GM - 11601736 (bolt & plate)
*if you have a different p/n by all means, please share the knowledge.
The camber plate for mine is the same part#, the bolt alone is GM - 15654866
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GM - 15741217 (camber plate)
GM - 11601736 (bolt & plate)
*if you have a different p/n by all means, please share the knowledge.
Are Koi carp? Be careful of the raccoons--they love to eat fish.I lost the set of keys yesterday for the Tahoe that had my Boost Auto key fob along with a house and mailbox key. I went to order a new 2015 style fob (price has gone way up it seems) and saw they now sell the 2020 style for the GMT900 platform only so I ordered the new version. On an unrelated note… bought these 2 Koi to add to my collection. My pond is filling in nicely. The fish are in Hawaii and will be shipped after they don’t eat for 2 weeks, poor guys. View attachment 459289View attachment 459290View attachment 459291
Boost Auto link
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2020 Style GM Key Fob Retrofit (2007.5-2014 Trucks & SUV's)
2020 Style GM key fobs retrofitted to fit 2007-2014 GM full-size trucks. Direct replacement for your factory fobs. Chrome shell, user-programmable, a HUGE upgrade over OEM fobs. Fitting Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra as well as Tahoe, Yukon, and Suburban. Upgrade your key fob today!boostautoparts.com
fancy carpAre Koi carp? Be careful of the raccoons--they love to eat fish.
What are the advantages over a stock replacement fob? Being able to program it yourself (if you buy the programmer)? I'm not rough on gear, so the sturdier construction wouldn't be a major draw by itself.I lost the set of keys yesterday for the Tahoe that had my Boost Auto key fob along with a house and mailbox key. I went to order a new 2015 style fob (price has gone way up it seems) and saw they now sell the 2020 style for the GMT900 platform only so I ordered the new version.
Boost Auto link
![]()
2020 Style GM Key Fob Retrofit (2007.5-2014 Trucks & SUV's)
2020 Style GM key fobs retrofitted to fit 2007-2014 GM full-size trucks. Direct replacement for your factory fobs. Chrome shell, user-programmable, a HUGE upgrade over OEM fobs. Fitting Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra as well as Tahoe, Yukon, and Suburban. Upgrade your key fob today!boostautoparts.com
Thank you!The camber plate for mine is the same part#, the bolt alone is GM - 15654866
I lost four babies and my oldest butterfly Goldie to a Great Blue Heron this spring. Right after I cleaned the pond. I even had line set up to thwart them off. Since then, I have invested in a “pond tent” and a solar powered motion sensors automatic sprinkler. If it were legal to shoot them, he would already be in the freezer. The dober got close to eating him once already.On an unrelated note… bought these 2 Koi to add to my collection. My pond is filling in nicely. The fish are in Hawaii and will be shipped after they don’t eat for 2 weeks, poor guys.
Another possibility is given the fact they can be a bear to reinstall at times, maybe it was removed at an earlier time and someone tried to turn the wheel a little to get it to seat and it with barely any of the....shaft in the coupler, it could have cracked the end.Is it just me or does this female end for the lower steering shaft look a little unsquare? Must have been Friday and someone forgot to QC the finished product. The bad part - this is OEM
It’s brand new, never been used. I’m installing it on a brand new steering rack.Another possibility is given the fact they can be a bear to reinstall at times, maybe it was removed at an earlier time and someone tried to turn the wheel a little to get it to seat and it with barely any of the....shaft in the coupler, it could have cracked the end.
I guess it's hard to tell by the pic, but the area in the circle looked rough and not uniform so I thought a piece had chipped off in that gap area. It's been awhile since mine was removed so I forgot exactly what it looked like.Also, you lost me a little there at the end. What would be cracked?
I was going to suggest filing it but looks like you got it figured out.I guess it's hard to tell by the pic, but the area in the circle looked rough and not uniform so I thought a piece had chipped off in that gap area. It's been awhile since mine was removed so I forgot exactly what it looked like.
View attachment 459342
Gotcha. No, that’s both what the keyed/stepped portion looks like and the shadowing from the lighting. There might be some overspray from copper anti-seize in that area as well, adding to that chipped look.I guess it's hard to tell by the pic, but the area in the circle looked rough and not uniform so I thought a piece had chipped off in that gap area. It's been awhile since mine was removed so I forgot exactly what it looked like.
How much of a pain were those fuel lines? I’ve done brake lines, and will never do them again.Finally got around to doing some needed items. Had to replace fuel lines from filter to tank. Since had to drop tank also replaced fuel pump (kept old one as backup). If this fuel pump goes then I will be cutting the floor and making a little door. While tank was off replaced rusted brake lines (just used OEM line). Paid local shop to do lines ....was not about to do that laying on my back in the front yard. Did AC Delco plugs and wires. Also did the intermediate steering shaft and bushing...laying under dash so might as well do both. Damn my back is getting old.
I tried repairing my hard line that feeds into my steel braided brake line on my ds rear caliper(03 Tahoe). Someone used a compression fitting to repair it--it was leaking like a mf'er. Bought a double bubble flaring tool from HF. Very long story short--I bought a length of flexible pre-made hard line from Advance Auto. Was so much easier.How much of a pain were those fuel lines? I’ve done brake lines, and will never do them again.
Maybe with the right double bubble flair tool and the new style flexible lines it wouldn’t be so bad, but the old hard lines with zero give were a nightmare. The new ones you can damn near bend by hand, whereas the old ones wouldn’t budge using a conduit bender. Then all of a sudden 170° with a hairline crack. Or it would blow out a foot from the location you repaired.
By "The new ones you can damn near bend by hand," I take it you mean nickel-copper/NiCopp/Cunifer. I started using it for every hard line about five years ago, and it's a pleasure to work with. Easy to fabricate and easy on the tooling.How much of a pain were those fuel lines? I’ve done brake lines, and will never do them again.
Maybe with the right double bubble flair tool and the new style flexible lines it wouldn’t be so bad, but the old hard lines with zero give were a nightmare. The new ones you can damn near bend by hand, whereas the old ones wouldn’t budge using a conduit bender. Then all of a sudden 170° with a hairline crack. Or it would blow out a foot from the location you repaired.
Original plan was to actually open the new lamps and install a proper HID projector, however I discovered a very nice replica of the HELLA E55 projector that is in the original housings done very well with a clear lens and very sharp cutoff and the hot spot is centered at the cutoff line so they are very OEM like projectors and they are DOT certified and I am not surprised given these are DEPO lamps and they are used as repairs post accidents by certified body shops.What brand black housing headlights do you have there? DEPOT from Ebay, they were around 210$. Those seemed to have been bought the most and the reviews were quite ok if I dare say good. Most other housings seem to always complain of bad beam and water intrusion.
How long have you had them? They have been on the car for 3months and have not had the fogging or water injestion issue. I was going to reseal them but was impatient and decided to swap them and see who they look and to my surprise they did not leak.
Any issues with condensation? None at all.
What’s your opinion on the light output of the HID projector compared to OEM headlights?
They do look nice, I think this is a good set up for decent price to swap old aged lenses and projectors. my old housings will not adjust at all and that was enough reason for me to throw them out of the truck.I love the look of the black trimmed housing on the GMT900 Escalade but am so hesitant to go with an aftermarket headlight housing…
Raccoons don’t stand a chance in my backyard with a 110 lb Malamute at the ready. Besides, it’s 4’ deep and if they can’t stand up they can’t do shit. A swimming raccoon is only trying to get to where he can stand up. Also, nearly all my Koi including those new ones are around 18-20” already and growing fast so they might scare the raccoons themselves. The Koi eat anything after all, they might eyeball them.Are Koi carp? Be careful of the raccoons--they love to eat fish.

You can program any of the factory or aftermarket fobs without a programmer for this platform. I personally love the look and feel of the 2015 style that I was using on 3 of my trucks over the stock style for their respectable years (2002 and 2008)and since I have to replace the one I lost, I figured since they came out with the 2020 style, I’d upgrade for a few more bucks. I’m also one of those guys who does a lot of modifications to my vehicles, I never leave them stock.What are the advantages over a stock replacement fob? Being able to program it yourself (if you buy the programmer)? I'm not rough on gear, so the sturdier construction wouldn't be a major draw by itself.