alpha_omega
Full Access Member
More like a Yukon L.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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Update: just had my father-in-law come out and put a prybar under the front tire while I looked at the ball joint, and there’s just a tiniest little bit of upward movement in the joint. But no play is permissible, unfortunately, so I will replace them.
Took the 2012 to the shop today for state inspection and they called and said it needs both lower front ball joints, and that they would be happy to do it for $1200. So I picked it up and brought it home and checked the ball joints. I can find no evidence of play by hand or with a pry bar. I think they’re smoking crack. It has 145,000 Mostly Highway miles on it, and it’s mostly only been driven on long trips. Dry country until 2019 and has never seen road salt in Virginia. The whole undercarriage is clean and the dust boots are all intact. I’m calling ******** on the shop and heading back there tomorrow to ask them to show me the method they used to find play.
I first got suspicious because I drove over as soon as they called without telling them I was coming, and asked to see the truck. They said it’s all buttoned up, so I asked if I could take it home and they said no it’s not ready.
I’m a little pissed because this is a shop that has been good to work with in the past.
Took the 2012 to the shop today for state inspection and they called and said it needs both lower front ball joints, and that they would be happy to do it for $1200. So I picked it up and brought it home and checked the ball joints. I can find no evidence of play by hand or with a pry bar. I think they’re smoking crack. It has 145,000 Mostly Highway miles on it, and it’s mostly only been driven on long trips. Dry country until 2019 and has never seen road salt in Virginia. The whole undercarriage is clean and the dust boots are all intact. I’m calling ******** on the shop and heading back there tomorrow to ask them to show me the method they used to find play.
I first got suspicious because I drove over as soon as they called without telling them I was coming, and asked to see the truck. They said it’s all buttoned up, so I asked if I could take it home and they said no it’s not ready.
I’m a little pissed because this is a shop that has been good to work with in the past.
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shops are so scumy.
a friend of mine sent his wife in with her car for a recall done. they did the recall but sent a video of walking around the car pointing out everything they found wrong. the estimate was going to be 1700$. I had never seen the video thing done. it's hard to understand but they guy was selling a ac cleaning, something about cowl area and foam that fills the ac lines to clean the condenser. and then a small valve cover gasket seep, just enough to collect dust. he said that's a ASAP fix because another customer has oil get into their electrial connections and basically short them out and blow up the engine.
craziest thing I've ever seen.
a friend of mine sent his wife in with her car for a recall done. they did the recall but sent a video of walking around the car pointing out everything they found wrong. the estimate was going to be 1700$. I had never seen the video thing done. it's hard to understand but they guy was selling a ac cleaning, something about cowl area and foam that fills the ac lines to clean the condenser. and then a small valve cover gasket seep, just enough to collect dust. he said that's a ASAP fix because another customer has oil get into their electrial connections and basically short them out and blow up the engine.
craziest thing I've ever seen.
I hate alarmists.
ivin74
05 NBS Nali
Post the pics of the cosmoline coating
Keeping the 4wd/awd and stock suspension to start out with. Here are the wheels/tires I’m going with.
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Charlie207
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Faux
Both shocks look good with no leaks and have been performing well, so I'm just going to replace the control arms and outer tie rod ends. Already did the sway bar links in 2021 and they still look good. Went with Mevotech Supreme parts. I have a lifetime alignment on this rig at Firestone so I'll have them do the alignment. $457.32, all in.
The shop was just going to do the lower balljoints...for $1,200. This way I get to refresh the whole front end for a little more than 1/3 the price, plus an evening of my time. I did the same job a few years ago on my '07 so I know what I'm in for, at least, and I have all of the tools.
The shop was just going to do the lower balljoints...for $1,200. This way I get to refresh the whole front end for a little more than 1/3 the price, plus an evening of my time. I did the same job a few years ago on my '07 so I know what I'm in for, at least, and I have all of the tools.
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I just had both upper & lower complete control arms & then the inner tie rods ( part charge only )... last week.... ( $1,700 ) ..Plus a 4-wheel alignment.
Boy, does it drive nice !!
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lot of front end rebuilds lately, including myself
I would beware of those mevotech, just have seen some reports of the rubber going bad after not too long, I have considered using there parts a few times and did use there end links for a year or two but the bushings seemed to not be all great after 2 years, replaced with a duralast lifetime endlink of 99% identical design.
I decided to spend the extra money and get oem for the rest of it. I am probably going to be owning this thing for quite some time still.
still have another 2 1/2 years payments on the wifes rig before I can even consider looking for a 2020 which is the newest I will likely ever buy
I don't want something that is going to require all kinds of crap work just to get it to roll should it break down, I don't care how pretty they look, the engines are breaking and I can't quit believe that going with 0-40 is going to cure that, no thanks
I would beware of those mevotech, just have seen some reports of the rubber going bad after not too long, I have considered using there parts a few times and did use there end links for a year or two but the bushings seemed to not be all great after 2 years, replaced with a duralast lifetime endlink of 99% identical design.
I decided to spend the extra money and get oem for the rest of it. I am probably going to be owning this thing for quite some time still.
still have another 2 1/2 years payments on the wifes rig before I can even consider looking for a 2020 which is the newest I will likely ever buy
I don't want something that is going to require all kinds of crap work just to get it to roll should it break down, I don't care how pretty they look, the engines are breaking and I can't quit believe that going with 0-40 is going to cure that, no thanks
RooTBeeRthe1st
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I've had mevotech lower arms for 4 years now 50,000 miles, no issues that I know of... I'm due for a front end check though.
that's good to hear, I have seen mixed reviews over time
Sir_Hiro
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Happy to Report that Betty did great on her first of many camping trips. Developed a clunk on the drivers front i gotta look at but other than that. Factory Trailer Brakes work as intended. Didn't do terrible at 70 pulling the 3K camper. It needs more tounge weight IMO its a bit squirrely above 70. But very happy overall.
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Sir_Hiro
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I'll never use Mevotech again. I had their balljoints on my 79 T/A and used their supplied cotter pin which broke within 6 months causing the balljoint to exit the control arm at about 60 MPH. Everything was torqued to spec and checked. They barely had 300 miles on them. The upper balljoint wasnt far off from leaving the chat either. Never Again. Spend the extra money or get better cotter pins.
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Move your case of bourbon to the front of the camper....
Sir_Hiro
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I wish. But I think I am going to upgrade to 30Lb propane tanks. I only use them for heating but when it hits sub 40s I'll burn through half a tank a night and nothing is worse than running out in the middle of the night. lol
didn't get my temp sensor in this weekend had to tackle some yard work that was getting out of hand, sometime this week.....
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
It’s just the same black wax coating that originally comes on the vehicle. You can buy cans of it by the case. I changed out the spray head with one from a large bottle of brake clean and “hose”. It can make a mess so be sure to wear gloves, have rags handy for any overspray. I taped off areas where I didn’t want to spray, which helps with cleanup. Although brake clean and a rag will eat through most overspray. Having cardboard down was a help, because obviously it’s going to drip down. I wiped any access to prevent as many of those drip points you’ll often see.
Also, since I live in the rust belt - prior to spraying the cosmoline, I hit some of the areas with a rust preventer. I will still go back and atomize (mist spray) inside the frame and some of body areas with either trans fluid or something like fluid film.
The only other area of concern that I have is finding something to help cover the inner side of the rear air compressor. For whatever reason it’s wide open to all road debris, water, dirt, salt…etc. I’m thinking I should be able to use a piece of coroplast (yard sign) that other guys have used to replace the front baffles. I tried using an old baffle cover but I believe I need something stronger.
alpha_omega
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Anyone had luck replacing their camshaft position sensor? Or are they all a real SOB to replace?
