What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

for that center break you could get a piece of rectangular aluminum or mild steel, cut it into (2) 4" strips, drill a hole on each end and use it as a brace for that break right in the center, drill corresponding holes on each side of the break and bolt it on. That will be stronger than trying to bond it back together, which you could apply also with some epoxy.
i'm poor I have always figured out ways to fix things if it is at all possible.
you can do whatever to it right there as nothing will be touching it.
with the inside being curved you could bend a couple washers the same angle and use a couple stand-offs or short sleeves, unless you can round off the bracing metal with some kind of tool for the inside. or just use a couple big bent washers on the inside I don't think it is critical area that will continue to come apart just needs to be braced to keep from wiggling at all.
View attachment 455189

McGyver it!

 

[Charlie207]

for that center break you could get a piece of rectangular aluminum or mild steel, cut it into (2) 4" strips, drill a hole on each end and use it as a brace for that break right in the center, drill corresponding holes on each side of the break and bolt it on. That will be stronger than trying to bond it back together, which you could apply also with some epoxy.
i'm poor I have always figured out ways to fix things if it is at all possible.
you can do whatever to it right there as nothing will be touching it.
with the inside being curved you could bend a couple washers the same angle and use a couple stand-offs or short sleeves, unless you can round off the bracing metal with some kind of tool for the inside. or just use a couple big bent washers on the inside I don't think it is critical area that will continue to come apart just needs to be braced to keep from wiggling at all.
View attachment 455189

Just get the hot staple kit.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just get the hot staple kit.

I have one of those, I think I paid $20 on Amazon. Works great, I stapled my dash back together.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

for that center break you could get a piece of rectangular aluminum or mild steel, cut it into (2) 4" strips, drill a hole on each end and use it as a brace for that break right in the center, drill corresponding holes on each side of the break and bolt it on. That will be stronger than trying to bond it back together, which you could apply also with some epoxy.
i'm poor I have always figured out ways to fix things if it is at all possible.
you can do whatever to it right there as nothing will be touching it.
with the inside being curved you could bend a couple washers the same angle and use a couple stand-offs or short sleeves, unless you can round off the bracing metal with some kind of tool for the inside. or just use a couple big bent washers on the inside I don't think it is critical area that will continue to come apart just needs to be braced to keep from wiggling at all.
View attachment 455189

Yeah, that's minor. I'm not worried about it. Good idea, I'll come up with something.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Just get the hot staple kit.

I think the china tool store sells those

 

[CMoore711]

Picked up some OEM ‘12-‘14 Premium tail lights and purchased an OEM 3rd brake light as well. Had the day off for Good Friday and weather was good so swapped them out.

3rd brake light is retrofitted with LEDs. Turned out great, only gripe is the LEDs in the 3rd brake light don’t seem nearly as bright as the brake lights on the tail lights…

Before:

After:

Night time shot:

 

[DurrtyBurB]

Scored a cheap set of Tundra wheels , added some hub centric spacers . I’ll be replacing the center caps with some Chevy bow ties

 

[Geotrash]

Finally got the second fan shroud delivered...
This one's covered in mud, but everything looks to be in good shape otherwise. So I'll give it a good wash and put my brand new motors in with my fan blades. Should be all set after that.

So now I have two sets of used motors and blades and pigtails... Technically three sets of motors except one of mine was making bad noises which is why I bought new ones.

I installed a RockAuto aftermarket one in my 2012 last year but it was for the K5L package. It's working great (confirmed with heavy towing last summer) and was brand new. Just something to think about if the muddy one 5hits the bed.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

Did another oil change.
Was at 3k miles but this oil had a 16 hour each way trip to So Cal, an 11 hour round trip to Laramie and a 13 hour round trip to Missoula.
I've done far too much driving in the last 30 days.

 

[Charlie207]

Just replaced the original 2008 LY6 TPS with a new AC Delco part. Engine fired right up to a normal idle. Doubt this will resolve my sporadic throttle-lag issue, but at least I got to go outside for a bit.

 

[Geotrash]

Just replaced the original 2008 LY6 TPS with a new AC Delco part. Engine fired right up to a normal idle. Doubt this will resolve my sporadic throttle-lag issue, but at least I got to go outside for a bit.

How are you liking the power and performance of that 6.0 overall, now that you've had it in there a while?

 

[Charlie207]

How are you liking the power and performance of that 6.0 overall, now that you've had it in there a while?

Overall, I like it. It definitely has move OOMPH than the mechanically stock 5.3 that was in it last summer. It's certainly quicker off the line, especially the odd time I had it in 4WD Hi, and tried a hard-launch. I really try to NOT beat on my DD, but I had to try it once. On the highway, I notice much less downshifting to 5th gear on long hills that would normally require it with the 5.3, but I doubt I gained much fuel economy, especially with the 33" tires. I did notice a slight bump in MPGs when running my winter 31" tires.

I do feel like the email tune has kind of reached it limit to fine-tune the cam and throttle, and basically all other stuff. It's been very helpful to just datalog, and do the email stuff, but I believe there's a level of polish that isn't possible with it. I have been desperately searching for a "local" dyno-tuner who can do LS stuff in person, but the search is not going well.

The other issue is the occasional warm-start/no start scenario. Again, I believe it's a tuning thing that has been mentioned in previous file revisions, but still not worked out.

Mechanically, the engine has been reliable, doesn't leak a drop (yay!), and sounds good. I'm trying to be financially responsible with a long-tube header plan, but adding cats. to the Speed Engineering headers (at least in my BrainCAD v1) seems to be holding me back. If I had a time machine, I would have just burned up a credit card a bit more, and bought them to install when the engine was out, but I was under an extreme time-crunch to get my daily-driver on the road.

 

[Geotrash]

Overall, I like it. It definitely has move OOMPH than the mechanically stock 5.3 that was in it last summer. It's certainly quicker off the line, especially the odd time I had it in 4WD Hi, and tried a hard-launch. I really try to NOT beat on my DD, but I had to try it once. On the highway, I notice much less downshifting to 5th gear on long hills that would normally require it with the 5.3, but I doubt I gained much fuel economy, especially with the 33" tires. I did notice a slight bump in MPGs when running my winter 31" tires.

I do feel like the email tune has kind of reached it limit to fine-tune the cam and throttle, and basically all other stuff. It's been very helpful to just datalog, and do the email stuff, but I believe there's a level of polish that isn't possible with it. I have been desperately searching for a "local" dyno-tuner who can do LS stuff in person, but the search is not going well.

The other issue is the occasional warm-start/no start scenario. Again, I believe it's a tuning thing that has been mentioned in previous file revisions, but still not worked out.

Mechanically, the engine has been reliable, doesn't leak a drop (yay!), and sounds good. I'm trying to be financially responsible with a long-tube header plan, but adding cats. to the Speed Engineering headers (at least in my BrainCAD v1) seems to be holding me back. If I had a time machine, I would have just burned up a credit card a bit more, and bought them to install when the engine was out, but I was under an extreme time-crunch to get my daily-driver on the road.

Thanks for the details. I'm glad it's working out well overall!

 

[Charlie207]

Thanks for the details. I'm glad it's working out well overall!

I'd honestly love to do another engine rebuild, but don't have anything to put it in. But, before I do that I need a garage & space to work.

 

[Geotrash]

I'd honestly love to do another engine rebuild, but don't have anything to put it in. But, before I do that I need a garage & space to work.

Yeah, it was pretty impressive grit to have done that work outdoors and away from where you normally store your tools.

I've had a similar thought - it would be awesome to do a full engine and transmission workup on the bench and have it ready for when one of our Yukons needs it, but I haven't had either the time or the storage space to do so.

 

[SpareParts]

What door pins/bushings are people using?
I do not see a listing for them on Cunningham Machine and i don't want to install Doorman.
Going on the buddies 2008 Yukon XL.

 

[SpareParts]

Ya either love 'em or hate 'em, but i absolutely love the new tail lights i installed today.

 

[Geotrash]

What door pins/bushings are people using?
I do not see a listing for them on Cunningham Machine and i don't want to install Doorman.
Going on the buddies 2008 Yukon XL.

OEM or Dorman. Dorman is better than they used to be.

 

[Doubeleive]

me too lol

 

[Doubeleive]

I wouldn't mind the exterior of a escalade, but the interior to me is gaudy and the console is not well designed at all
it's like wearing a ring with a giant stone on it, useless can't get in your pocket, gets caught on everything, ugh