Steering Rack Replacement

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Dustin Jackson

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I'm going to be replacing my steering rack this weekend, when I was buying the rack the website was saying I should install an inline power steering fluid filter to avoid contamination of the new rack but this isn't mentioned in any of the steering rack replacement guides.

I was planning on just swapping in the new rack and filling the system with new fluid, is there more that I should be doing to make sure my new rack lasts a long time?
 

Marky Dissod

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... when I was buying the rack, the website said I should install an inline power steering fluid filter to avoid contamination of the new rack,
but this isn't mentioned in any of the steering rack replacement guides.

I was planning on just swapping in the new rack and filling the system with new fluid.
Is there more that I should be doing to make sure my new rack lasts a long time?
What harm could there possibly be in adding a filter?
It certainly would not kill the rack any sooner.
 

Foggy

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I'm going to be replacing my steering rack this weekend, when I was buying the rack the website was saying I should install an inline power steering fluid filter to avoid contamination of the new rack but this isn't mentioned in any of the steering rack replacement guides.

I was planning on just swapping in the new rack and filling the system with new fluid, is there more that I should be doing to make sure my new rack lasts a long time?
If the reason for replacement is just a leak, then I wouldn't worry about it.
IF the reason was a trashed rack or ps pump... then yeah, you've got trash in the system.
 

j91z28d1

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I just saw a filter hanging on the wall of a advanced auto parts a few days ago.


are pumps still pretty cheap? maybe just replace the pump as well and call it a day?
 

strutaeng

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You can do a full fluid replacement after replacing it. Simply disconnect the return line and hook up a piece of clear vinyl tubing into bucket. Keep turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock (tires on the air) until the fluid runs clear. Just keep an eye on the pump reservoir, may need a helper for this.

I did that when I replaced the rack on my 99 Silverado about 18 months ago. Now that I think about it though, it may be a good idea to do that procedure before (and after too?) replacing the rack, just to prevent the old fluid circulation through the new rack? PS fluid is cheap. A rack, labor and alignment are not.
 

petethepug

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It’s best to pressurize the rack before everything is 100% reassembled. That scenario of new racks leaking is real if you get a rack that’s been sitting out for a few years in a hot dry warehouse.

It occurred on my VW. The Indi forewarned me of it since I brought my own rack in. It was splat! at start up. Pretty sure he did me a solid though.

It sounded like he got a replacement from his local supplier who exchanged the rack and paid his labor because so may had rotted out.
 
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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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Got the new rack installed, filled it up and turned the wheels back and fourth a few times and refilled it until it stopped going down. Then I started it and turned the wheels and the power steering was groaning and the reservoir was empty so I filled it again and now everything seems good but there’s a lot of foam from the initial start. Will that go away or do I need to drain and feed I’ll the system again?
 

B-train

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Lift up the front and cycle it back and forth by hand, lock to lock a number of times without the engine running. Once or twice won't cut it, do many cycles. Slow and steady back and forth.

The foam will go away after it sits for awhile.....just like a beer
 
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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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Took it on a shake down test drive and man does it feel good. Steering is nice and tight, no rattles or knocking when driving over bumps and dips.

Getting the old rack out was very hard with the tie rods on (diff drop puts the diff right in the way) but I wanted them to stay on for measurement, could probably remove them next time. Tie rod ends were on about 18 turns both sides. I ended up getting the rack down and then pushed it out the driver side a bit to get the passenger tie rod under the control arm and then slide the rack out towards the passenger side on my chest. Installing the new one in reverse order was pretty easy, only weighs like 30 pounds so if I can do it anyone should be able to do it. Just be sure to keep the long mount bolts near by so that you can pin it up when you are lifting it. I had to steer the rack a tiny bit to get it to mount up to the steering shaft. I understand you don’t want to turn the steering wheel to line it up. (?)

My old steering joint was in bad shape and was binding in rotation so I ended up putting in the new Dorman joint.

While the joint was out I pulled the steering shaft out of the firewall all it could and greased the part of the shaft that goes into the firewall boot with some blue synthetic brake caliper grease. This is supposed to help eliminate a lot of chatter in the steering shaft and column.

The reman steering rack looked suspicious on the outside but seems to be operating just fine.

Can’t wait to get an alignment and tire rotation.
 

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lspann3525

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Took it on a shake down test drive and man does it feel good. Steering is nice and tight, no rattles or knocking when driving over bumps and dips.

Getting the old rack out was very hard with the tie rods on (diff drop puts the diff right in the way) but I wanted them to stay on for measurement, could probably remove them next time. Tie rod ends were on about 18 turns both sides. I ended up getting the rack down and then pushed it out the driver side a bit to get the passenger tie rod under the control arm and then slide the rack out towards the passenger side on my chest. Installing the new one in reverse order was pretty easy, only weighs like 30 pounds so if I can do it anyone should be able to do it. Just be sure to keep the long mount bolts near by so that you can pin it up when you are lifting it. I had to steer the rack a tiny bit to get it to mount up to the steering shaft. I understand you don’t want to turn the steering wheel to line it up. (?)

My old steering joint was in bad shape and was binding in rotation so I ended up putting in the new Dorman joint.

While the joint was out I pulled the steering shaft out of the firewall all it could and greased the part of the shaft that goes into the firewall boot with some blue synthetic brake caliper grease. This is supposed to help eliminate a lot of chatter in the steering shaft and column.

The reman steering rack looked suspicious on the outside but seems to be operating just fine.

Can’t wait to get an alignment and tire rotation.
I am about to try to tackle the same job. Can replacement tie rod jam nuts be purchased locally?? I was wanting to pull my rack with the tie rods still on it so I can compare to the new rack. Do your rack come with new o rings?
 
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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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@lspann3525 The new rack came with new PS Orings, it didn't come with tie rod jam nuts I had to reuse them from the old inner tie rod. Just undo it after you get it out and write down how many turns it takes to get the tie rods off and then swap the old jam nuts over
 

89Suburban

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This is on my to do list as well. Thanks for sharing.
 

lspann3525

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I went with the detriot axle rack and pinion it came with new outer tie rods but no o-rings or jam nut...How are yall securing the steering wheel from moving
 

lspann3525

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Today I was prepping to do the rack and pinion and couldnt locate the cup seals locally. I ended up ordering them from autozone.

My rack and pinion came prefilled with some type of red fluid im assuming is power steering fluid. I ended up losing a bit of the red fluid trying to make sure the input shaft was centered. The pressure kept blowing the plugs off even with my hand over it. Im hoping I didn't ruin anything by doing this
 
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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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@lspann3525 You should be ok, just make sure the seals are in there when you get the lines back installed and there is lots of fluid in the reservoir
 

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