What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Geotrash

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the craftsmans line went to crap long before the name was sold off. big difference between vintage craftsman and the later stuff. there's a market for the old stuff if you have it. the newer stuff wasn't made as well.) it's noticeable side by side.
I still have my dad's 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar from the 1950's. It's nigh unbreakable.
 

Grady_Wilson

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man, just had a derp moment, for whatever reason I thought I had bought mobile 1, tossed my receipt but I used my phone number maybe I can exchange them, grr
What would be the difference?
As long as they are the same formula the Valvoline should be fine.
Most of what I've seen for Mobil1 is like Monster Cable for audio stuff, just the name.

Unless you've seen real world testing from someone like Dana that proved a tremendous difference, I wouldn't think there would be a difference.
 

Doubeleive

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What would be the difference?
As long as they are the same formula the Valvoline should be fine.
Most of what I've seen for Mobil1 is like Monster Cable for audio stuff, just the name.

Unless you've seen real world testing from someone like Dana that proved a tremendous difference, I wouldn't think there would be a difference.
probably no difference, I just thought I had grabbed m1 lol. I will just use this
 

Grady_Wilson

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probably no difference, I just thought I had grabbed m1 lol. I will just use this
Only case I have seen where Mobil1 made a significant difference is with Nissan VQ engines.
Someone had some repeated Blackstone testing done and with Mobil1 there was an increase of brass in the used oil.
Other synthetic oils didn't show this so Blackstone surmised the Mobil1 wasn't protecting something as well as other oils.
They guessed cam bearings.
Granted, this was back around 2004 so things may have changed with their oils.
 

Geotrash

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Only case I have seen where Mobil1 made a significant difference is with Nissan VQ engines.
Someone had some repeated Blackstone testing done and with Mobil1 there was an increase of brass in the used oil.
Other synthetic oils didn't show this so Blackstone surmised the Mobil1 wasn't protecting something as well as other oils.
They guessed cam bearings.
Granted, this was back around 2004 so things may have changed with their oils.
Not surprised, though I used to run it exclusively back then and got 300K out of an Isuzu V6 that usually threw rod bearings at around half that mileage. Mobil1 was also marketed in a shady way. The base oil stock was actually dino juice that they re-processed and labeled as "synthetic". Not sure if that's still the case but I stopped using it and started using Walmart real synthetic oil instead.
 

Grady_Wilson

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Yesterday, I installed some new rear hatch supports.
After they were both in, when the lift gate would go up, it would clunk at the top like it was being pushed too far by the new lift struts.
The gate would go up and stop like normal, then clunk and jump just a little more.
I removed the new struts and reinstalled the old ones because I didn't want to damage the lifting mechanism.
Guess I'll have to order genuine GM struts and see if the same thing happens.

Only reason I ordered the new ones is the auto lift function doesn't work when it's near zero degrees or colder and I wanted to see if new struts would and make any difference.
 

Geotrash

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Yesterday, I installed some new rear hatch supports.
After they were both in, when the lift gate would go up, it would clunk at the top like it was being pushed too far by the new lift struts.
The gate would go up and stop like normal, then clunk and jump just a little more.
I removed the new struts and reinstalled the old ones because I didn't want to damage the lifting mechanism.
Guess I'll have to order genuine GM struts and see if the same thing happens.

Only reason I ordered the new ones is the auto lift function doesn't work when it's near zero degrees or colder and I wanted to see if new struts would and make any difference.
My guess is that either the ones you ordered may have been spec'd to fit but in reality were too short, or they have an internal fault preventing them from moving smoothly through their full range of motion.

I've used aftermarket struts on these many times and had great results. The only ones that didn't work right were the ones I got at Autozone.

These worked well for me last time and are still on the vehicle.

 

Grady_Wilson

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My guess is that either the ones you ordered may have been spec'd to fit but in reality were too short, or they have an internal fault preventing them from moving smoothly through their full range of motion.

I've used aftermarket struts on these many times and had great results. The only ones that didn't work right were the ones I got at Autozone.

These worked well for me last time and are still on the vehicle.

It's almost like the new struts were pushing the lift gate up too far.
The lift gate would go up as far as the motor would take it then after it stopped the new struts would push it up further.
I even looked into the slit where the lift arm comes out and you can see the mechanism jump after everything stops when the motor stops lifting.
 

Doubeleive

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I was messing around with my GPS's I have and discovered I trim 2 hours off of a 700 mile drive
a 700 mile drive should take roughly 11 hours, I do it in 9 hours :driver: based on 27,000 miles of data
weird that it is only about 14 mph difference
 
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j91z28d1

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reminds me of an old mitch headburg bit about oatmeal. something about making instant oatmeal and then sitting around for and hour not doing shit. makes me think I could make normal oatmeal and feel productive.
 

Doubeleive

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reminds me of an old mitch headburg bit about oatmeal. something about making instant oatmeal and then sitting around for and hour not doing shit. makes me think I could make normal oatmeal and feel productive.
I was just trying to figure out why my tread (off-road gps) showed so much travel time difference, because that stupid thing has "adventurous mode" level 1-4 which it calculates a route based on on-road/off-road on it's own some weird thing it does, I like it because it has newer features but takes some different paths sometimes.
I guess my 10+ year old garmin just say's yep you'll get there sooner lol
 

Rocket Man

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I was messing around with my GPS's I have and discovered I trim 2 hours off of a 700 mile drive
a 700 mile drive should take roughly 11 hours, I do it in 9 hours :driver: based on 27,000 miles of data
weird that it is only about 14 mph difference
You do realize it’s the journey, not the destination? :p
 

Doubeleive

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Got my new tires put on today and these clips arrived in the mail from mouser, when I was doing the front end work I had to take the abs harness off at the frame because I didn't want to unscrew it from the hub, the plastic clips where the harness connects on the frame were brittle and broke right off, I was looking at ones out at the junkyard and they were all brittle too and broke when I tried to take them off, figured out how to detach the clip from the harness and used google lens and found these for 0.56 cents each on mouser. I don't think gm sells these separate. 100% identical part made by hellerman tyton
heller.jpg
heller1.jpg
 
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Grady_Wilson

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Got my new tires put on today and these clips arrived in the mail from mouser, when I was doing the front end work I had to take the abs harness off at the frame because I didn't want to unscrew it from the hub, the plastic clips where the harness connects on the frame were brittle and broke right off, I was looking at ones out at the junkyard and they were all brittle too and broke when I tried to take them off, figured out how to detach the clip from the harness and used google lens and found these for 52 cents on mouser. I don't think gm sells these separate. 100% identical part made by hellerman tyton
View attachment 452530View attachment 452531
How about a link?
I already have a Mouser account so I could preemptively order some.
I recently order two new PSUs for my cousin's audio interface in his studio.
They were direct replacements for his old one and got his $3k piece of gear back up and running.
 

Grady_Wilson

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Replaced the VLOM and oil sender unit. Here’s a good video link that I followed to easily DIY it and a few pictures of a 162k VLOM with regular oil changes.

View attachment 452574View attachment 452575View attachment 452576View attachment 452577
Wow, that thing was nasty.
What type of oil was used throughout the engine's life, do you know?
I've only used synthetic oil in my Nissan and after 250k miles the valve train was very clean when I removed the valve covers to replace the gaskets to fix some leaks.

1742056103955.jpeg
 

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