What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Charlie207]

did you break the clip off? you should have to reach inside the splash guard with a 10mm and loosen the bolt up to get them out (each side)
View attachment 446278

That's a good question. I didn't have to undo any lower bolts to remove the housings, which also means the shop who messed with them last year didn't either.

 

[Doubeleive]

That's a good question. I didn't have to undo any lower bolts to remove the housings, which also means the shop who messed with them last year didn't either.

it's not a critical part but does help keep them aligned and from wiggling around while driving, if the piece is still there inside and is just broken off you can try pulling the lights out and the broken piece and try some gorilla glue, if there is room you could drill some small holes and use a short dowel with the glue to make it more secure. cheaper fix than new $200-300 housings. gorilla glue is awesome stuff water doesn't affect it and it holds like crazy.

 

[Tonyrodz]

That's a good question. I didn't have to undo any lower bolts to remove the housings, which also means the shop who messed with them last year didn't either.

Or they're the ones who broke them.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Replaced headlight bulbs to help melt the ice/snow over the winter. LEDs are great, but don't produce heat.

Also, replaced both rear O2 sensors with some GM (NTK manf.), and swapped in a new transmission mount while I was under there... preventative maintenance.

I picked up some new oil g a filter, but will wait until I hit 5k miles to change it.



Not sure about Tahoe, but Yukon lights are quick/easy to pop out, contrary to whatever crack the shop was smoking the last time they quoted me an hour's labor to do, for one side. It took 5 minutes to do both front bulbs.

Tahoe headlights are a PAIN IN THE ASS!!! its terrible haha. and there is basically zero clearance behind them for anything. Doing a retrofit was a pain, but worth it

 

[Grady_Wilson]

This is the tool to remove LS crank pulls/harmonic balancers, after you blast the bolt out.

Orion Motor Tech Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit, Adjustable 3-Jaw Puller Set for Removing Harmonic Dampers & Balancers, 3-Jaw Pulley Puller Set Compatible with Chevy GM Chrysler Cadillac Ford More

Amazon.com: Orion Motor Tech Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit, Adjustable 3-Jaw Puller Set for Removing Harmonic Dampers & Balancers, 3-Jaw Pulley Puller Set Compatible with Chevy GM Chrysler Cadillac Ford More : Automotive

Amazon.com: Orion Motor Tech Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit, Adjustable 3-Jaw Puller Set for Removing Harmonic Dampers & Balancers, 3-Jaw Pulley Puller Set Compatible with Chevy GM Chrysler Cadillac Ford More : Automotive

a.co

AutoZone also rents it, but they call it a Chrysler pulley tool. Same thing.

Very handy info, thanks.

 

[Runfor5]

Orion Motor Tech Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit, Adjustable 3-Jaw Puller Set for Removing Harmonic Dampers & Balancers, 3-Jaw Pulley Puller Set Compatible with Chevy GM Chrysler Cadillac Ford More
https://a.co/d/h86p8JC

AutoZone also rents it, but they call it a Chrysler pulley tool. Same thing.

EDIT: For install, I used a 1/2" torque wrench that went up to 250 lb/ft. on an ARP bolt set to 235lb/ft. in one hand, and jammed a long breaker bar through the spokes of the balancer in the balancer in the other hand, and just push/pulled until it went "click" 2x.

Thanks for all this! Great info. For $28 i don't mind buying the removal tool myself, can pass around to relatives too for their own trucks.
Those torque specs you used on this same ARP bolt too I'm assuming?
I have that same exact torque wrench lol, so will use this same method once getting around to it.

 

[Charlie207]

Very handy info, thanks.

Additionally, this set from HF is perfect for pulling the lower timing chain sprocket from the crankshaft.

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html

Also, circling back to the harmonic balancer, once you pull it off you don't need a special tool to get it back on. Just heat the center section up with a torch (even a blue propane worked fine) for a solid 2-3 minutes, and then quickly jam it on. (It won't hurt the timing cover seal one bit.)

After that it should be on enough to use an old crank bolt (or just reuse the ARP bolt) to zip it in with a 1/2“ impact, then finish with a torque wrench, although I've seen lots of cases when people just crank the ARP bolt on until it stops spinning.

 

[Charlie207]

Thanks for all this! Great info. For $28 i don't mind buying the removal tool myself, can pass around to relatives too for their own trucks.
Those torque specs you used on this same ARP bolt too I'm assuming?
I have that same exact torque wrench lol, so will use this same method once getting around to it.

Yes the ARP crank bolt spec is 235 ugga-duggas. The nice thing is that you can reuse the bolt over and over again.

 

[mikez71]

Comparison of factory driver mirror defroster vs kool vue passenger mirror. Just dew droplets, but that is how it looks with frost as well..

 

[Grady_Wilson]

With the single digit weather, I have developed a squeak from the drive belt tensioner.
Ordered a kit that has both belts, tensioner and idler.
RA had a Gates kit for $104 so I ordered that one.
Gates belts and hoses have always been good to me.

 

[89Suburban]

Mine looks like Han Solo frozen in carbonite and soaked in road salt/brine.

 

[t_bergman]

Took the 2500 out to do some towing; bought a ‘21 XT5 with 0 and I mean 0 tread left at a Genesis dealer.

Clearly was a miss by their intake team but otherwise the XT5 is solid and still under the factory warranty. Had to tow it over to the Cadillac dealer I mainly work with as the ice is still on the roadway from the previous nights storm and 0/32” isn’t exactly road legal.

Ended up making a killer deal as they wanted to at least sell 1 car that night.

 

[t_bergman]

Finally got around to adding an airtag in the 2500; working on some other measures to ensure it doesn't go anywhere but if it does at least this will let me find it.

Too bad OnStar didn't supply a 3G to LTE/5G module for the older cars, would have certainly upgraded.

It's up in the dome lights for anyone wondering; I wanted to ensure it was high enough that phones in the vicinity could contact it and also make it difficult for someone to find.

For others who may have implemented something similar; just found this product which claims a 10 year battery life for the AirTags.

10-Year Battery™

Over 14x more battery capacity than AirTag's CR2032 coin cell. Uses two AA batteries (Not Included). We recommend Energizer Ultimate Lithium for longest life (25yr life, no leaking, flat voltage). We do not recommend alkaline batteries. Easy assembly: Discard AirTag's battery and door, place on...

www.elevationlab.com

While I haven't had to replace the battery in my 2500 yet I've ordered a set and plan to hide the tag a bit deeper in the vehicle. The key is to get the AirTag as high as possible without the possibility of it being found.

 

[mattbta]

For others who may have implemented something similar; just found this product which claims a 10 year battery life for the AirTags.

10-Year Battery™

Over 14x more battery capacity than AirTag's CR2032 coin cell. Uses two AA batteries (Not Included). We recommend Energizer Ultimate Lithium for longest life (25yr life, no leaking, flat voltage). We do not recommend alkaline batteries. Easy assembly: Discard AirTag's battery and door, place on...

www.elevationlab.com

While I haven't had to replace the battery in my 2500 yet I've ordered a set and plan to hide the tag a bit deeper in the vehicle. The key is to get the AirTag as high as possible without the possibility of it being found.

Thanks for the link!

 

[Geotrash]

Passed state inspection today on the '07 and I'm thankful to have an honest shop. I thought for sure I had a failing lower ball joint because the dust boot has been cracked a while, and I saw grease around it the last time I crawled under there. So I'd asked him to get his eyes on it and give me an estimate to have it replaced. He called and said it was just grease that got squished out the last time I had an oil change and lube, and that the boot was still intact with no play in the joint. Thank goodness for small wins because we've had some other expenses lately and I didn't feel like doing the job this time around, either.

 

[Charlie207]

Dropped of my rig for the yearly state safety inspection (only 2+ months late this time... im getting better). Had to fix the torn driver's side underseat airbag sensor harness, and tighten up my parking brake. But, let's see what they come up with to try and fail me this time.

I'm also toying around with the Tech2 clone I have, and learned about the idle speed adjustment options. That was neat.

 

[swathdiver]

I'm also toying around with the Tech2 clone I have, and learned about the idle speed adjustment options. That was neat.

Can you show us or tell us how you did that?

 

[Charlie207]

Can you show us or tell us how you did that?

Yes, I'll go out later today and take some photos and/or videos.

Keep in mind it could be a fluke. I connected the Tech2 to my ECU using the 2008 6.0 LY6 option. I didn't use the OEM 2014 5.3 LMG option (well, 2013, because my Tech2 software only goes up to 2013... must be a Silverado thing) and perhaps that's why?

Either way I'll take some pics. It wasn't very complicated. I was messing around with trying to do the crank sensor relearn, but got distracted, and still have the warm/hot start stumbling issues.

 

[swathdiver]

Yes, I'll go out later today and take some photos and/or videos.

Keep in mind it could be a fluke. I connected the Tech2 to my ECU using the 2008 6.0 LY6 option. I didn't use the OEM 2014 5.3 LMG option (well, 2013, because my Tech2 software only goes up to 2013... must be a Silverado thing) and perhaps that's why?

So the Tech-2 talks to the 2014 if you change the year to 2013? Have always wondered but never had the opportunity to test it out.

 

[Charlie207]

So the Tech-2 talks to the 2014 if you change the year to 2013? Have always wondered but never had the opportunity to test it out.

Yes, and also when I select 2008, GMC, Truck/light duty, C, 6.0 LY6...

I believe the 2013 and 2014 Yukon SLT 5.3 are functionally identical.