Oil Capacity Question/Verification

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Antomn you really do not offer much here.

I can assure you I can read a dipstick just fine and have been doing so for MANY years. I can also count, have been doing this for MANY years as well. You and many of the others here seem to want to make this engine meet to the written spec which maybe fine, but it is just not me, there is evidence that what I am seeing is not so uncommon. Well with 8 quarts of oil in my engine, it barely was on the bottom of the dipstick, not close to the lowest hash mark.

I think if people would stop and actually look at the disptick closely they will find 8 quarts will not be on the full mark. One additional thing everyone should note is the oil level is checked "cold" or at least after the engine has been off for 2+ hours. Checking the oil while fueling the vehicle will likely show a higher level due to fluid expansion. So following the manufactures recommendation, check the oil cold, possibly even after sitting overnight.

I will stated this ONE LAST TIME!!!!

I MATCHED THE OIL LEVEL ON THE DIPSTICK AS IT WAS FILLED FROM THE FACTORY.

8 quarts was below the the lower hash marks on the distick. I am not running an oil level any higher than when the vehicle was delivered to me. So the engine is NOT overfilled with oil as everyone seems to state, even when they have not even checked the oil in my vehicle.

Seems people have blinders on and don't see the benefit on matching the oil level the vehicle was delivered with, at the top of the hash marks on the dipstick. If you blindly put 8 quarts of oil in the engine after a oil and filter change and do not verify the engine oil level, while the engine is cold, not sure what to tell you.

Everyone can and will do what they choose, but again, if I would not have changed the oil, the engine would have had this same level, less any oil consumed until the first oil change based on the OLM which would have probably been somewhere in the range of 6000-7500 miles depending on the vehicle driving conditions. If I would have blindly folllowed the "spec", I would have an engine starting out 1 quart low on oil. Then the first time I checked it (cold) I would have then complained the engine had an oil consumption problem!

Suggest everyone pay a bit more to the oil level on the dipstick, when the vehicle has sat for more than 2 hours and see where the oil level shows up. You may be surprised, but maybe not. Just a word to the wise, pay attention to detail, regardless of what any spec states. I have found typo's, carrry overs and wrong information many times before in the automotive world and with regard to many other things. This is nothing new.

I believe it when I see/confirm it.

There is a possibility you have the wrong dipstick...while not likely, it could happen. You could take your vehicle to the dealer and ask them to compare your dipstick to another one on the lot...

 

[Blackcar]

Wow, this discussion went from the simple (short dipstick?), to the philosophical (metric vs English measurement), to the conspiracy of GM selling us bad design.

My service bill at the Dealer charged me for 8 quarts at $6.99 each. I can assure you that they would have charged me for 9 if they had used 9 quarts. Oil level was right in the middle of the hash marks. But wait, they did charge me $24.99 for a Premium Oil Conditioner that was not mentioned up front. That must have raised the oil level a little right? Maybe there is a conspiracy!

Is there a part number on the oil conditioner they used??


This page is out of 2024 Yukon owners manual the bottom three line says not to use addives or flushes.

318 Vehicle CareWhen to Add Engine OilIf the oil is below the cross-hatched area at thetip of the dipstick and the engine has been offfor at least 15 minutes, add 1 L (1 qt) of therecommended oil and then recheck the level.See “Selecting the Right Engine Oil” later in thissection for an explanation of what kind of oilto use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, seeCapacities and Specifications 3 400.CautionDo not add too much oil. Oil levels aboveor below the acceptable operating rangeshown on the dipstick are harmful to theengine. If the oil level is above the operatingrange (i.e., the engine has so much oil thatthe oil level gets above the cross-hatchedarea that shows the proper operatingrange), the engine could be damaged. Drain(Continued)Caution (Continued)the excess oil or limit driving of the vehicle,and seek a service professional to removethe excess oil.See Engine Compartment Overview 3 314 forthe location of the engine oil fill cap.Add enough oil to put the level somewhere inthe proper operating range. Push the dipstickall the way back in when through.Selecting the Right Engine OilSelecting the right engine oil depends on boththe proper oil specification and viscosity grade.See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants 3 396.SpecificationUse full synthetic engine oils that meet thedexos1 specification. Engine oils that havebeen approved by GM as meeting the dexos1specification are marked with the dexos1approved logo.CautionFailure to use the recommended engine oilor equivalent can result in engine damagenot covered by the vehicle warranty.Viscosity GradeUse SAE 0W-20 viscosity grade engine oil.When selecting an oil of the appropriateviscosity grade, it is recommended to selectan oil of the correct specification. See“Specification” earlier in this section.Engine Oil Additives/Engine Oil FlushesDo not add anything to the oil. Therecommended oils meeting the dexos1specification are all that is needed for goodperformance and engine protection.Engine oil system flushes are notrecommended and could cause engine damagenot covered by the vehicle warranty.

 

[blondie70]

All this dipstick talk reminds me of a guy at work calling me a "dipstick". Wondered what he meant? Should I have gotten angry ? Happy ? or what ???

 

[GMCnewbee]

Dipstick is the polite version of "*******". Not a term of endearment, but still a put down. However, depending on the personal relationships it is normally used as a way to make a joke or as a way of poking fun at someone, like being called an idiot, moron, etc. How do I know this?

 

[GMCnewbee]

Looks like I got edited. Sorry about that Admin. The word I was looking for is dip-sh##.

 

[Dipstick]

You rang?

 

[PG01]

You rang?

Ain’t nothing like lipstick around your dipstick …..

 

[igor2]

Oil was checked on level ground.

8 quarts added after oil change had NO oil on the dipstick hash marks. Yes, I also realize with this dipstick it is tricky to determine the oil level with fresh, clean oil. As mentioned, I checked it before the oil change to see where the oil level was on the dipstick from the factory fill.

Not sure this is an "over fill" condition because with 8 quarts, there was nothing showing in the hash marks on the dipstick. So unclear how this is an "opinion", I have/had no "opinion" I want be able to confirm the amount of oil in the engine, which is what I did.

This post was to question what everyone else is seeing. Putting 8 quarts in the engine and calling it a day could be a problem if the oil level is not verified. At least we still have a dipstick to check the level, many newer cars have no dipstick at all.

Word to the wise, check the oil immediately after an oil change. Verify for yourself the oil level on the dipstick. With all the engine failures and complaints about oil consumption, it would be wise to know EXACTLY where the oil fill is on a fresh oil change.

Will be interested to see over time if others see similar results.

I would check the housing for the dipstick, make sure it's pushed in completely to wherever it goes, the oil pan or the block , second I would measure the length of the dipstick to make sure it's correct for your engine. I'd give you the measurement on mine but I have a 5.3 and it's probably different.

 

[Kpwweb]

I rarely see 4 quart containers readily available, most of what I see are 5 qt containers, but you must buy something special.

While you indicate that you fill your containers with what came out of the engine, the oil filter will not easily and completely drain with the oil drain back valve and the filter media holding oil.

I am starting to wonder if anyone ever really uses and looks at their dipstick closely?

I look at the dipstick every other week, if not every week. Full. If it starts getting below a half-quart low, I top off with a half quart and it is full again. And after oil change with 8qts—full.

And yes, some will be in the filter media. You can (I think you can) estimate that—it will NOT be a full quart.

BTW—you can use a five-quart container if desired. The math really isn’t that hard.

 

[Stbentoak]

If the length of your cross hatch equals roughly a quart, if you are say 1/8th inch above the cross hatch, there is no reason to worry about that. I overfilled mine to the top of the indentation on the stick and not really worried about it in the least.... it's only about 1/4 of a quart max overfilled. That doesn't mean anything to a 7-quart (or 8 qt) engine....

 

[blanchard7684]

I'm getting 8.5 qts on an oil change as well. 8 qts gets oil level to mid range on dipstick and that is with a full oil filter.

I do my oil changes after letting oil drain down all night, then I let it drain and then drip for 20-30 minutes.

I have other vehicles that are the same way. If you do a "quick" oil change you have to add less oil than if you did an extended drain.

 

[jfoj]

So funny how many of the YouTube videos of people doing oil changes on these 6.2l engines install an empty oil filter and then add 8 qts of oil WITHOUT starting the engine before checking the oil level and claim the oil level is fine or even people that fill the oil filter before installing it then add 8 qts of oil and start the engine and claim the oil level is fine. Many indicate the oil level is typically half way on the dipstick hashmarks with 8 quarts and claim the oil level is fine, technically it is, but it is likely at least 1/2 quart low! Even more interesting is how GM actually released a bulletin many years ago for this style engine reducing the oil change oil fill requirement from 8.5 quarts to 8.0 quarts.

I feel this engine really needs at least 8.5 quarts and would have no issue with 9.0 quarts at oil change. AGAIN for anyone that has not read my posts in this thread, I MATCHED the oil level on the dipstick where the vehicle oil level was delivered from the factory. To the TOP of the hash marks or the top full mark on the dipstick on my engine. I do not need a different dipstick or dipstick tube!! I matched the oil level to the factory oil fill level.

Even if the doubters claim this is 1 quart overfilled, it will not hurt anything. The slow drainback from the cylinder heads and lifter galley while the engine is running will minimize and potential problems. Given these engines are buring oil and having fuel contamination issue as well as grenading overall, I feel more than happy to run 9 qts in my engine, so it will take longer to consume oil to a lower level and it will take longer for fuel dilution to become a problem for lubrication dilution.

Each his own, but I would highly suggest everyone to fill the oil level to the top of the hash mark on the dipstick, which will be over 8 quarts IMHO.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Hello, I mentioned earlier that our technicians in Russia seem to have found the reason for the increased oil consumption. I will write in metric units. And so, I have a Yukon 2022 with a 6.2 engine. I change the oil according to the manual, every 12,000 km. Then, after changing the oil, the oil level does not change for the first 4000 km, then every 1000 km my oil level drops to the middle, and I add 0.5 liters. until the oil change. In total, my oil consumption is 8.5 liters when changing. And then for the next 8,000 km it takes approximately 4 liters of oil. A total of 12.5 liters of oil consumption between routine maintenance.
Cars with a 6.2 engine have valve covers with a technological defect. There is a sealant laid there, which in one place is missing by about 1 cm, oil goes into this 1 cm.
Now GM has released new valve covers that eliminate this defect. We decided to change the valve covers on my Yukon, and in addition to missing 1 cm of sealant, my separator was completely loose. you can see it in the video.

The video is in Russian, but you can see everything there.
The technician changed the valve covers, and we began to observe. Immediately after the change, I drove along the toll highway. I drove 170 km/h, 100 km one way, and 100 km at a speed of 170 km/h back.
Previously, after driving like this on the highway, it would have taken me about 100-200 ml of oil. After the trip, the oil level remained unchanged. Then I drove around the city, the oil level did not change, and began to drop slightly after 1500 km after replacing the valve covers.
Now I have already driven 4000 km, and in the end I only added 0.5 liters. Yes, oil consumption has not completely gone away. But replacing the valve covers greatly reduced it. It is clear that we still need to observe, but so far I am very pleased with the effect.

 

[wjburken]

I just spent the last several minutes reading this post and all I got out of it was the OP explained throughly that he is an expert is changing and checking the oil in his vehicle and should never be questioned by others who have also been changing and checking oil for a number of years. Open dialog is great, but saying you’re the smartest guy here and everyone is an idiot is not a good way to foster productive conversation. The point of simply seeing if the dipstick in question matches others is a valid point. Variances in production runs do happen and I’m sure dipsticks don’t face the same level of crotchet a lifter or a piston faces. The idea that the oil level checked at time of purchase was the “factory fill” is ridiculous. As stated, the dealer will do a final look over and top off fluids as needed based on dipstick readings.

I’m glad we have now identified the local expert for checking and changing oil. I need to change the oil in my 2016 F-150 and would love to get any professional recommendations on how to properly do that since the 30+ years that I have been changing oil is definitely not enough experience.

 

[jfoj]

I just spent the last several minutes reading this post and all I got out of it was the OP explained throughly that he is an expert is changing and checking the oil in his vehicle and should never be questioned by others who have also been changing and checking oil for a number of years. Open dialog is great, but saying you’re the smartest guy here and everyone is an idiot is not a good way to foster productive conversation. The point of simply seeing if the dipstick in question matches others is a valid point. Variances in production runs do happen and I’m sure dipsticks don’t face the same level of crotchet a lifter or a piston faces. The idea that the oil level checked at time of purchase was the “factory fill” is ridiculous. As stated, the dealer will do a final look over and top off fluids as needed based on dipstick readings.

I’m glad we have now identified the local expert for checking and changing oil. I need to change the oil in my 2016 F-150 and would love to get any professional recommendations on how to properly do that since the 30+ years that I have been changing oil is definitely not enough experience.

wjburken,

Really appreciate your direct and personal attack on me. I never said I was the smartest guy here, I asked a question if anyone else has seen similar conditions and it does appears to be the case that a few members have seen similar situations as I have..

You and some other members clearly do not understand verifiying and matching the factory oil fill level, assuming you had purchased the vehicle new, when the first and subsequent oil changes were performed. Found my oil level at the top of the dipstick hash marks, ended up setting my oil level at the top of the dipstick hash marks. Garbage Out/Garbage In! Funny how much consternation this thread brought up.

Nobody here knows by background or experience level, but all I will say is it is rather vast.

Seems everyone is freeting over my choice to run the oil level where I choose to, each their own! I am running the oil level in the engine where it was delivered from the factory at the top hash mark on the dipstick, pretty basic principal from my point of view.

 

[jfoj]

Hello, I mentioned earlier that our technicians in Russia seem to have found the reason for the increased oil consumption. I will write in metric units. And so, I have a Yukon 2022 with a 6.2 engine. I change the oil according to the manual, every 12,000 km. Then, after changing the oil, the oil level does not change for the first 4000 km, then every 1000 km my oil level drops to the middle, and I add 0.5 liters. until the oil change. In total, my oil consumption is 8.5 liters when changing. And then for the next 8,000 km it takes approximately 4 liters of oil. A total of 12.5 liters of oil consumption between routine maintenance.
Cars with a 6.2 engine have valve covers with a technological defect. There is a sealant laid there, which in one place is missing by about 1 cm, oil goes into this 1 cm.
Now GM has released new valve covers that eliminate this defect. We decided to change the valve covers on my Yukon, and in addition to missing 1 cm of sealant, my separator was completely loose. you can see it in the video.

The video is in Russian, but you can see everything there.
The technician changed the valve covers, and we began to observe. Immediately after the change, I drove along the toll highway. I drove 170 km/h, 100 km one way, and 100 km at a speed of 170 km/h back.
Previously, after driving like this on the highway, it would have taken me about 100-200 ml of oil. After the trip, the oil level remained unchanged. Then I drove around the city, the oil level did not change, and began to drop slightly after 1500 km after replacing the valve covers.
Now I have already driven 4000 km, and in the end I only added 0.5 liters. Yes, oil consumption has not completely gone away. But replacing the valve covers greatly reduced it. It is clear that we still need to observe, but so far I am very pleased with the effect.

Vladimir,

Thanks for posting your findings. I recal I ran into some info about the 3.0l Diesel valve cover where there was either a missing or broken baffle. I seem to recall that he Diesel may have had a supervised part number, but I did not focus to heavily on the info I ran across as I do not have the Diesel. I will go back and see if I can locate what I was looking at. Seems what you have identfied might be somewhat similar to the Diesel valve cover?

Were the replacement valve covers much different?

Any sort of design change from your observation?

Curious if you are running a catch can or just a stock PCV configuration?

Also what oil weight are you using?

Seems with most DI gasoline engines these days there may be some oil film wash down in the cylinders, but also the lighter weight oils tend to also "cook off" much easier as well, probably leading to more oil being pulled into the PCV system.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Vladimir,

Thanks for posting your findings. I recal I ran into some info about the 3.0l Diesel valve cover where there was either a missing or broken baffle. I seem to recall that he Diesel may have had a supervised part number, but I did not focus to heavily on the info I ran across as I do not have the Diesel. I will go back and see if I can locate what I was looking at. Seems what you have identfied might be somewhat similar to the Diesel valve cover?

Were the replacement valve covers much different?

Any sort of design change from your observation?

Curious if you are running a catch can or just a stock PCV configuration?

Also what oil weight are you using?

Seems with most DI gasoline engines these days there may be some oil film wash down in the cylinders, but also the lighter weight oils tend to also "cook off" much easier as well, probably leading to more oil being pulled into the PCV system.

I did not check the compatibility of the covers of the diesel engine, and the covers from the gasoline engine. But it seems that 5.3 and 6.2 they are the same. No, the only difference is that the separator on the new covers is glued without an elevator. I do not use any additives, the standard oil is 0w20 dexos tolerance, and I change it according to the regulations.

 

[jfoj]

The Diesel valve cover is totally different, I just found some info where the baffles in the Diesel valve covers had some issues and seemed to contribute to more oil consumption until replaced, I think?? with and updated part number. Only seen a few things about this

I do realize sometimes part numbers are not updated, but there may be a revised change in the assembly process, something like you have identified.

 

[Antonm]

I am running the oil level in the engine where it was delivered from the factory at the top hash mark on the dipstick, pretty basic principal from my point of view.

You could be running it at the factory fill level,,,, or,,,, you could be running it at whatever level the mouth breathing meth head the dealership pays to take the plastic off the seats during pre-delivery decided to put it at.

And you have no way of knowing which it is/ was.

For all of us with the normal trucks that’s aren’t 1-of-1 specials, GM fills them on the engine assembly line with an automated machine , and that machine puts in the same amount of oil in every time.

I wonder what volume of oil those assembly line process engineers programmed into the PLC for that machine? I’m sure they wouldn’t just go all Willy- Nilly and program in the value from the GM official published documentation or anything.
…

 

[blanchard7684]

I feel this engine really needs at least 8.5 quarts and would have no issue with 9.0 quarts at oil change. AGAIN for anyone that has not read my posts in this thread, I MATCHED the oil level on the dipstick where the vehicle oil level was delivered from the factory. To the TOP of the hash marks or the top full mark on the dipstick on my engine. I do not need a different dipstick or dipstick tube!! I matched the oil level to the factory oil fill level

Right there with you: I just did an oil change yesterday and again found the same results. 8 qts with full oil filter gets the oil halfway on cross hatch area of dipstick. I added another half quart and it was right at or maybe a tad over the top of the cross hatch.

I checked oil level the night I drove home with new Suburban. It set for about 2 hours on flat ground. (I was looking everything over on the SUV. )

The level was over the top of the cross hatch area.