What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

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Doubeleive

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the oem one's lasted me about 3 years from when I bought it, I then had them replaced with some magnaflows and those lasted me about 2 years, then I had these "catco" put on and they don't last a year. they run around $650 each, the magnaflows were $650 but have since doubled in price and are now $1200 each. Oem is around $4000+ for a "set" plus a core charge.
I have a history of making cat's go bad, they don't melt they just stop working. I don't even know how many I replaced on my 00 (several)
wierd thing is it only happens on my suv's, pickups seem to be setup different I guess
these are my options aside from a catco, has to be carb compliant they get under there and check the numbers
View attachment 429836
what sucks is AP has the market pretty much cornered on cat's they do business as API/Catco/Eastern, so magnaflow is basically there only competitor
 

j91z28d1

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I should do a claim for mine as well, ordered them thru summit and it shows 5 years warranty.
are they requiring you to send them back? I still have that huge @ss box they came in


2 options, you can either send them back and when they get them and inspect them, they'll send you new ones. or they can bill you for new ones, when they get the old ones back refund the card. I went that way but I made sure to ask judging by the pics these aren't going to be denied after I pay for a 2nd set right? he said the damage in the pics are definitely covered. so I hope so.

I got mine thru the retrofit source.

I'll keep you updated.
 

blondie70

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Just ordered a new steering position sensor, genuine GM.
Mine went out and now the traction control and stabilitrak is erroring out.
How did you find out it was the steering sensor? My stabilitrak etc is erroring out.
 

blondie70

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Just ordered a new steering position sensor, genuine GM.
Mine went out and now the traction control and stabilitrak is erroring out.
Hi Grady...how did you find out it was the steering position sensor causing the stabilitrak to error out? Thanks
 

Grady_Wilson

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Hi Grady...how did you find out it was the steering position sensor causing the stabilitrak to error out? Thanks
I used my Launch OBD II scanner and it came up with 3 codes related to the steering position sensor.
Those codes, combined with the fact that on initial startup, there are no errors on the DIC or the dash until the steering wheel is turned.
As soon as the steering wheel is turned at all, even without moving, the errors show on the DIC and the Traction Control light is lit on the dash.
A little bit of reading up on the codes, online, and some YT vids confirmed that a bad steering angle sensor will cause both systems to error out.

Hope this rambling explanation helps.
 

Doubeleive

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2 options, you can either send them back and when they get them and inspect them, they'll send you new ones. or they can bill you for new ones, when they get the old ones back refund the card. I went that way but I made sure to ask judging by the pics these aren't going to be denied after I pay for a 2nd set right? he said the damage in the pics are definitely covered. so I hope so.

I got mine thru the retrofit source.

I'll keep you updated.
i might hold off on doing a return, mine are not all that bad and I still have some warranty time left I would rather wait and get some fresh ones at the end of the warranty
 

blondie70

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I used my Launch OBD II scanner and it came up with 3 codes related to the steering position sensor.
Those codes, combined with the fact that on initial startup, there are no errors on the DIC or the dash until the steering wheel is turned.
As soon as the steering wheel is turned at all, even without moving, the errors show on the DIC and the Traction Control light is lit on the dash.
A little bit of reading up on the codes, online, and some YT vids confirmed that a bad steering angle sensor will cause both systems to error out.

Hope this rambling explanation helps.
Yes it does, thank you. I don't have anything happen when I turn the steering wheel. Just got the constant "stabilitrak/traction control warning. Having no problems at all that I can detect...and it has been like this a long while.
 

j91z28d1

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i might hold off on doing a return, mine are not all that bad and I still have some warranty time left I would rather wait and get some fresh ones at the end of the warranty


probably a good idea.

I don't see any bad reviews for other Morimoto replacement lights, the corvette guys buy them all the time and complain about everything. I feel like I'd see a lot of bad reviews if it was common for their products.


mine won't be parked in the sun as often now and I have some ppf wrap for them I never installed. so I might try that and see how they last.
 

j91z28d1

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Yes it does, thank you. I don't have anything happen when I turn the steering wheel. Just got the constant "stabilitrak/traction control warning. Having no problems at all that I can detect...and it has been like this a long while.

easiest is to look at the steering angle data on the scanner and see if it moves with the wheel.

a decent scanner to see all the modules in the trucks can be had for under 100$ these days. it's really worth having something as these age.
 

Grady_Wilson

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Yes it does, thank you. I don't have anything happen when I turn the steering wheel. Just got the constant "stabilitrak/traction control warning. Having no problems at all that I can detect...and it has been like this a long while.
Also, my scan tool showed no codes for the suspension system so it really is just that steering angle sensor.
 

Grady_Wilson

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the oem one's lasted me about 3 years from when I bought it, I then had them replaced with some magnaflows and those lasted me about 2 years, then I had these "catco" put on and they don't last a year. they run around $650 each, the magnaflows were $650 but have since doubled in price and are now $1200 each. Oem is around $4000+ for a "set" plus a core charge.
I have a history of making cat's go bad, they don't melt they just stop working. I don't even know how many I replaced on my 00 (several)
wierd thing is it only happens on my suv's, pickups seem to be setup different I guess
these are my options aside from a catco, has to be carb compliant they get under there and check the numbers
View attachment 429836
Boy, am I glad I will no longer need to worry about that nonsense when I am in Wyoming full time.
My Yukon is already registered in WY, it's my other cars that I will not need to worry about.
Zero smog tests and zero state inspections.
 
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looks like I'm getting my headlights warranted out. so that's nice.

but how to keep the next set from going to crap in 2 years.

blah.

View attachment 429834View attachment 429833View attachment 429832


looks like that plastic crazing inside not just the normal fading
I purchased some of this McGuires Keep Clear spray I'm planning on trying on my lenses.

I have aftermarket one's I installed about 5 years ago that show some of the clear coat pealing off across the top. They're only $300 a set, so I'm either going to repair the clear on these ones or just buy new ones and then try that McGuires stuff on them.

I thought about buying those Morimotos, but looks like they might have UV problems with the lenses also.

Screenshot_20240607-070454_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 

j91z28d1

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never heard of the keep clear stuff. huh


yeah these are a bit expensive to not last a year before showing signs of getting eat up. the brand makes a tons of light for cars and trucks and is considered not the ebay stuff even thou I'm sure it's all China made. I expected better. we'll see how the new ones do.

when I bought a weather tech mat for the back I tossed these ppf in the cart just never got around to installing them. I think I'll put them on before replacing the lights and see if it helps with the uv.

 

Tonyrodz

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never heard of the keep clear stuff. huh


yeah these are a bit expensive to not last a year before showing signs of getting eat up. the brand makes a tons of light for cars and trucks and is considered not the ebay stuff even thou I'm sure it's all China made. I expected better. we'll see how the new ones do.

when I bought a weather tech mat for the back I tossed these ppf in the cart just never got around to installing them. I think I'll put them on before replacing the lights and see if it helps with the uv.

This is the uv protector I used in my business. You mix a cap full each of the 2 small bottles. It's enough to do 1 set of headlights. You apply with a lint free towel. I gave a 1 yr guarantee on yellowing. Never got a call back. I actually used it on my aftermarket headlights on my Tahoe about 6-7 yrs ago and they still look good.

Screenshot_20240608_173901_Samsung Internet.jpgScreenshot_20240608_174130_Samsung Internet.jpg
If your headlights aren't new, you'd need to restore them 1st before applying it.
 

j91z28d1

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This is the uv protector I used in my business. You mix a cap full each of the 2 small bottles. It's enough to do 1 set of headlights. You apply with a lint free towel. I gave a 1 yr guarantee on yellowing. Never got a call back. I actually used it on my aftermarket headlights on my Tahoe about 6-7 yrs ago and they still look good.

View attachment 429971View attachment 429970
If your headlights aren't new, you'd need to restore them 1st before applying it.


so the first kit is the refeb stuff and the 45$ is the uv sealer?


lights showed up today, they would be fresh out of the box.
 

Tonyrodz

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so the first kit is the refeb stuff and the 45$ is the uv sealer?


lights showed up today, they would be fresh out of the box.
Sorry I was a little confusing on my explanation. The large bottle is used 1st to clean as much of the yellowing off the headlights as possible, you then sand with different grits of sand paper with a palm sander, then buff with some plastic polish using a power buffer. After all that you then mix a bottle cap of each 4 Oz bottle--Clear Wipe and Clear Slicker--in a small cup, which you then apply on the lenses with a lintless cloth/towel being careful leaving no drops. Let it dry a few hours and they'll be good for a few years. Of course if you're doing new lights, you'll just need to mix the cap fulls and take it from there.
 

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