2005 Z71 Full body wiring diagram / replacement harnesses.

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kylebnoris

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Happy new year guys. Just joined.

Searched around and couldn't find the straight answer so I figured I'd make an account here and ask the enthusiast.

I have a good friend of mine whom just inherited a 2005 Tahoe Z71 from his father that passed away. We are in the process of un-rigging the truck, and the entire front and rear suspension is being rebuilt.

His father had a drug problem, so the rest of this should make sense as to why it ended up this way.

The truck has some sort of bypass or replacement for the ignition system. It has what appears to be a rotary switch installed that takes the place of the regular ignition. The switch is just a rotary gear that can rotate left or right a specific amount, two clicks to the left and then hold and it's basically the same operation as the key in the ignition. Now I know, we thought the truck was stolen too, however we checked the vin in multiple places, and the title with local LEO and it's all legit. Title is legit to the truck etc.


The radio is on a switch too for some reason. Anyways I'm looking for a complete diagram for the body of the truck. it's a fully loaded out Z71 and we are going to rip the entire interior out to replace it anyway so we'll have full access to the body control module and all the attached harnesses. If I can purchase a complete replacement harnesses that would ideal, but I have been searching marketplace for a donor truck, as that could handle the harness and the interior all in one shot.


If anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate it. Before we load up the money shotgun and buy a $3,000-$6,000 parts truck.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

I cannot personally assist you with your issue, but other members of this Forum much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in. Perhaps a subscription to the AllData DIY vehicle information site would be a place to start.
 
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kylebnoris

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

I cannot personally assist you with your issue, but other members of this Forum much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in. Perhaps a subscription to the AllData DIY vehicle information site would be a place to start.
I can get him to take some pictures when he gets off work tomorrow, he's a Firefighter so he's working a 24. But it's a White Tahoe, Z71 5.3 4x4.
 
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kylebnoris

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Only have a picture of it on jack stands. Yesterday it was getting some brand new 315/75/16 BFG A/T KO2's mounted. Will post a better one tomorrow.
1000007824.jpg
 

OR VietVet

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon. These links should get you started. Just go to ebay and do a search for 2005 Tahoe wiring harnesses and all kinds of them come up for several pages.





 
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kylebnoris

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Thanks for the info,

here's a picture of the ole girl, working on diagnosing it trying to overheat when we drove it last night. Swapped the trans pan and gasket and all the sudden it was getting to 230.

Edit: idk why but for some reason it says this .png is too large of a file.
 

OR VietVet

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I am confused. The engine was trying to o-heat or the transmission? 230 degrees at the engine or transmission?
 
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kylebnoris

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I am confused. The engine was trying to o-heat or the transmission? 230 degrees at the engine or transmission?
Transmission pan gasket was just the work that had just completed.

When going down the road to test for function and leaks it tried to overheat. Hit 220-230 and the E fans went full blast.

Right now we just discovered his dad has straight water in it. We are currently going to replace the thermostat and housing gasket.

Side question, Dexcool correct?
 

OR VietVet

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Transmission pan gasket was just the work that had just completed.

When going down the road to test for function and leaks it tried to overheat. Hit 220-230 and the E fans went full blast.

Right now we just discovered his dad has straight water in it. We are currently going to replace the thermostat and housing gasket.

Side question, Dexcool correct?
Dexcool, correct. Either buy the "concentrate" and mix 50/50 or you can buy the pre mix and just pour that in.

I am not saying, "do not replace the thermostat", but you can test the old one easily. When you get out, use a pan of boiling water. If the old one is closed when you take it out, if is open it is a bad thermostat, dip the old one in the water and see if it opens up. That would indicate that there is a possibility that the new thermostat may not fix the problem. Plus, the temp gauge may not be accurate.
 
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kylebnoris

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Dexcool, correct. Either buy the "concentrate" and mix 50/50 or you can buy the pre mix and just pour that in.

I am not saying, "do not replace the thermostat", but you can test the old one easily. When you get out, use a pan of boiling water. If the old one is closed when you take it out, if is open it is a bad thermostat, dip the old one in the water and see if it opens up. That would indicate that there is a possibility that the new thermostat may not fix the problem. Plus, the temp gauge may not be accurate.
Understood. Filled with hose water for now to diagnose.

So new T stat is in. Water topped off and the T stat hasn't seemed to open yet because the lower rad hose is still cold.

Dash temp says 210°
OBD Reader "ETC(F°) 199
Unsure if ETC is transmission temp or Coolant temp.

Either way cap is back installed. Want to drive it and see but I'm afraid to overheat it.
 

Marky Dissod

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Dash temp says 210°F
OBD Reader ETC (F°) 199
Unsure if ETC is transmission temp or Coolant temp.

Dash coolant temp sender is NEVER exactly the same as the H2Opump coolant temp sensor; they are not in the same place.
(ATF temp is yet another different measurement.)

Also, check your oil for coolant, and vice versa.
 
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Fless

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Understood. Filled with hose water for now to diagnose.

So new T stat is in. Water topped off and the T stat hasn't seemed to open yet because the lower rad hose is still cold.

Dash temp says 210°
OBD Reader "ETC(F°) 199
Unsure if ETC is transmission temp or Coolant temp.

Either way cap is back installed. Want to drive it and see but I'm afraid to overheat it.

Any better definition for "ETC?" Engine Coolant Temp would be "ECT."
 
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kylebnoris

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Brakes are brand new, no issues for three days then all the sudden this. Hitting the brakes it doesn't pull at all at any speed except, coming to a complete stop from like 4mph to 0mph, and then when accelerating from 0mph to about 5mph it seems like it's got a stuck caliper. but the slide pins are new and greased, the caliper moves freely and the pistons all seemed fine.

both times this happens it sounds like electric servo gears grinding on each other.

The calipers are not stuck on the rotors, I have confirmed that, and again the trucks brakes were literally perfect, better than they ever have been for three days AFTER the rebuild. That noise at the beginning of the video sounds like dragging pads on the rotors but my phone's not doing it justice, it's not.

Any help is appreciated. Been a long two weeks rebuilding this truck.
 
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kylebnoris

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Brakes are brand new, no issues for three days then all the sudden this. Hitting the brakes it doesn't pull at all at any speed except, coming to a complete stop from like 4mph to 0mph, and then when accelerating from 0mph to about 5mph it seems like it's got a stuck caliper. but the slide pins are new and greased, the caliper moves freely and the pistons all seemed fine.

both times this happens it sounds like electric servo gears grinding on each other.

The calipers are not stuck on the rotors, I have confirmed that, and again the trucks brakes were literally perfect, better than they ever have been for three days AFTER the rebuild. That noise at the beginning of the video sounds like dragging pads on the rotors but my phone's not doing it justice, it's not.

Any help is appreciated. Been a long two weeks rebuilding this truck.
So we pulled the ABS and the issue is gone, must be an ABS sensor or something else ABS related
 

Tonyrodz

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So we pulled the ABS and the issue is gone, must be an ABS sensor or something else ABS related
You should check for any and all codes. Have a scanner for abs codes? Could be as something as simple as an abs sensor, or it could be the abs module itself. They're known to go bad.
I was gonna say that noise sounded like the abs kicking in.
 
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kylebnoris

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You should check for any and all codes. Have a scanner for abs codes? Could be as something as simple as an abs sensor, or it could be the abs module itself. They're known to go bad.
I was gonna say that noise sounded like the abs kicking in.
It must be the ABS sensor, that got moved around and such and was unhooked for two weeks. We cleaned em but you know how it goes.

I was like, why the hell does that sound like electric servos with busted teeth on the mesh gears lol.

I had to head back to Work back in SC so he's good to drive round town for now. If I could have I'd have rebuilt the whole damn truck but when all know how that goes.
 
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kylebnoris

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1000007940.jpg

She's a little rough around the edges but he says it rides best it ever had. Bilstein shocks all around and all Moog upper and lower control arms front and rear, Track bar, inner and outters, pitman and idler bracket and arm, new Fabtech sway bars and bushings front and rear, (OG lift is a 6in Fabtech) New Rough Country rear springs, torsion keys, new torsion bar bracket ( royal pain in the ass, the old one looked like his pop smashed a tree stump, junkyard truck had a brand new one and RC leveling keys) New tires, 315/75/16, new lock cylinder, key fobs, new transmission shift cable assembly, new transmission pan and gasket, and we tried to fit a new bumper but the mounts are all smashed up so that's too do amongst all the interior issues and the exterior issues.

Rear main leaks, the brake lines in the rear are little weird lol but they are "extended" and work for now. Interior is bout how you'd expect and it needs headlight housings and the new fogs harness repaired. A/C blower motor and Radio is on a switch for some reason so that needs to addressed as well. RC leveling keys have the truck squatted slightly but he doesn't mind it, however the alignment shop had difficulty with the adjustments, so eventually I'll have it leveled out by adjusting the key bolts and realignment.

Tons of work but man it's nice to see him smile his ass off getting to drive his pops truck. Can't wait to get more wrench time, learned a lot and I definitely wanna kick General Motors engineers in the balls lol.
 
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kylebnoris

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Thanks for those links,

We gutted the interior to find replace the carpet with vinyl flooring and ran across what may be a lot of our issues.

I appears that his dad cut into this harness,
(pictured the harness from the dash, as well as the connector that it plugs into under the console, the blue one)
And I think this might be the cause of some of his A/C issues too.

Just wondering if you know if this Part number tag on the console side is the part # for the harness coming from the dash.

I'm gonna attempt to find a pin out diagram for the black connector to repair the chopped harness there.

Thanks again for all your help!
 

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