There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[OR VietVet]

I personally would start by checking to verify that each wheel has a TPMS in it, and that its broadcasting.

In my area, you can take it to a local Discount Tire, and they will setup the TPMS for free, as long as they dont have to put it on a lift.

Sorry, should have said this. When I checked the air pressure, I did verify that there is a sensor in each wheel. Plus, at one time, there was no light on at the dash. Unfortunately, the owner of truck just passed so I have no way to get a timeline but the general consensus is that the door locks and the windows and the TPMS problems, all started happening at the same time or at least the windows and locks problems did.

 

[TollKeeper]

You verified there is a sensor, but is it broadcasting when activated?

Manual relearn procedure, Keyless Entry (2008-2014):​

• OBDII connector is not required
• Confirm TPMS sensors are properly installed
• Adjust tire pressures to placard value
• Inflate all tires
• Turn ignition ON
• Push and hold unlock and lock button on key fob until horn sounds
• Use tool to activate LF sensor
• Single horn sounds
• Repeat for RF/RR/LR
• Turn ignition OFF

Manual Relearn Procedure, DIC Button (2008-2014):​

• Inflate all tires
• Apply parking brake
• Turn ignition ON
• Push the DIC information button until PRESS TIRE LEARN is displayed
• Push (✓) to confirm
• Horn sounds 2x and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE is displayed
• Use tool to activate LF sensor
• Single horn sounds
• Repeat for RF/RR/LR
• Turn ignition OFF
• Release parking brake before driving vehicle

Manual relearn procedure, Odometer Reset (2008-2014):​

• Inflate all tires
• Apply parking brake
• Turn ignition ON
• Push and hold the trip odometer reset stem on instrument panel until PRESS (✓) TO RELEARN TIRE POSITIONS is displayed
• Push (✓) to confirm
• Horn sounds 2x and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE will display
• Use the tool to activate the left front sensor
• Single horn will sound
• Repeat for the RF/RR/LR sensors
• Turn ignition OFF
• Release parking brake before driving vehicle

I believe you can also press the valve core at each wheel and start deflating each tire, until the horn sounds.
Start Left Front, Right Front, Right Rear, Left Rear

 

[OR VietVet]

I did the manual relearn procedure with no positive results.

 

[OR VietVet]

On the 2009 K1500, they believe they are going to sell the truck and don't want to go any deeper. I finished what they approved and gave the truck back to them this morning. It was the first time I had used the stretch belt install tool and it worked flawlessly. I have a great MAC tool 1/2" ratchet, long handle, and a 24mm socket and the belt went right on and there is no more noise at the a/c belt. When I did the oil change, I did identify 2 leaks. One from a loose old oil filter and the other from the oil cooler line block off flange. I explained to them what the repair would take and they will think about it. It is seepage leak and not a steady drip leak. Rest of the engine is dry.

 

[TollKeeper]

I did the manual relearn procedure with no positive results.

Check the 10A DSM fuse in the cab fuse panel.

Also, are the tires factory to the truck? Newer truck? etc? It may have sensors, but are they the correct ones? I know they changed the frequencies a couple times over the years.

 

[OR VietVet]

Check the 10A DSM fuse in the cab fuse panel.

Also, are the tires factory to the truck? Newer truck? etc? It may have sensors, but are they the correct ones? I know they changed the frequencies a couple times over the years.

I did check the fuse you mentioned and any fuses in there that had to do with windows and door locks and all looked good. I looked in the fuse/relay box under the hood with all looking good.

 

[OR VietVet]

The 2007 Lexus got dropped at the detail shop today. Getting the full meal deal. Interior, exterior, engine compartment and polishing the headlights. When pick it up, am gonna do the work I listed in a previous post in this thread and put it up for sale.


On the way back with my AL friend he mentioned another retired friend is assisted living that is a vet and has a GM truck for sale and he asked if I was interested in going to look at it. We did. It is a 2005 GMC Sierra HD2500 Duramax crew cab 6.5 foot bed and is a 4x4. 194k miles on it. Has a cracked and non functioning power adjustable manual extension d/s mirror problem, dent at the left rear chrome bumper on the corner and a dent in the p/s rear bed area under the taillight. No rips or tears and starts right up and plan on in the next couple days getting it here to do a full on inspection. The center he is at is about 1 mile away. I am aware that by 2005 the injector problems had been addressed on the Duramax but it has it's own weaknesses on the LLY engine. The concerns that it has mainly happen under heavy load conditions or tuned high horsepower/torque conditions. I had a 2003 Duramax and loved it.

 

[OR VietVet]

Picked up the 05 GMC Sierra Duramax today and brought here for inspection. Gobs of the Duramax power and smooth transmission shifts. Looked under hood and found slight seepage at the hydro-boost where the master cylinder bolts on. The master cylinder looks dry but the booster does have some wet on it. Steering gear has slight seepage at the shaft. Rear diff cover lower half shows seepage and has the dark brown wet dirt. Both front axle seals leak at the stub shafts. One is a leak, the other is seepage. Rock chip at upper 1/3 of p/s w/s.

Was all set to take it back and tried all the windows. The left rear went right down but stopped 1/2 way up. Went back down easy and then 1/2 way up and stopped but could hear a grinding crackling noise. No matter how I tried to help it up, it was stuck. Called him. said what I expected, "Worked fine the last time I used it". That could have been years ago. Back window of a crew cab and he can only get around with a rolling walker. Removed the inside door cover and tried it again and narrowed down the noise to where the cables go in and out of the motor housing. Then I found it. The cable is coming apart. See pics. I unhooked the window and taped it up so would no rain in and showed the guy the pics. He is having me fix that. I estimated the parts and labor for the rest of the work and with the broken mirror, the dent in chrome at left rear bumper and the dent under the right rear taillight. I explained that at best it is FAIR condition at KBB and figuring in the cost of the listed repairs, I offered him $4k cash. He does not get around and may likely get more at CL but then he has to deal with the crazy buyers and no shows and and and.......His son does not want the truck either.

 

[OR VietVet]

The window as it sits now.

 

[OR VietVet]

Saturday at 10 am the son of my neighbor across the street is coming in with a 2005 Lexus RX330 with brakes that make a grinding noise when driving and is worse when apply the brakes. Golly, I wonder what that is?

Tomorrow get the Lexus IS350 back from detailer and I have the engine hood and trunk struts here to install and do an oil change and do the engine air filter and the cabin air filter.
Then it goes up for sale.

 

[Tonyrodz]

The window as it sits now.

View attachment 410740

Careful when you pull that tape off, it might pull some of the clearcoat with it.

 

[OR VietVet]

Careful when you pull that tape off, it might pull some of the clearcoat with it.

Yep, thought of that. The passenger side, above both doors, shows clearcoat problems but none at driver's side.

 

[OR VietVet]

The driver's side outside mirror looks to be very expensive when buying new. Best price I can find is a dreaded Dorman mirror at RA for $592.79. Genuine GM is way up there. I reached out to @915_Tahoe and am waiting to hear back.

Does anyone know of a used mirror option? Thanks.

 

[OR VietVet]

Got the 2007 Lexus IS350 back from detailer yesterday. In about an hour, I replaced the engine air filter, the cabin air filter, the engine hood struts and the trunk struts and did the oil change. Took 24 pics and posted it at CL. Had a call about it 15 minutes later. Road test, I drove. The 22 year old did not have his license or insurance cards with him but had in his phone but that phone pic does not mean it is current. I drove and he bitched. I said can the bitching or go away. He settled down. We settled on $8k and then he balked when I said I was taking the Ca. license plate off. I told him if gets in accident before he transfers title, I could be liable back to that license plate. He flashed the $8k at me and I stood my ground. He drove away with his girlfriend. It will sell soon. Not worried about it.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ordered the two rear door window regulator/motor assemblies for the 2005 GMC Duramax and will be installing them. I also figured out the d/s outside mirror application and price of just under $600. Crazy price. Only one at RA is a Dorman and is more than a Genuine GM part at GM Parts Direct. I think the RA one is where I am gonna go. easier for return if needed and the GM part may not be in stock and on back order with all the supply problems. I am not gonna buy the truck but he is paying me to get it ready and I will sell for him. He is an old vet and has to have a rolling walker to get around. The truck would make a great trailer puller or work truck but myself and my girl have just decided to slow down when it comes to trailering on the road. Travel yes, stay at a hotel or motel yes, stay at a camp model at campgrounds yes, deal with the purchase price and insurance and upkeep of owning a trailer.....NO.

If anyone is looking for a 2005 GMC Sierra SLE crew cab 6.5 bed Duramax/Allison combination in the PNW, let me know. Guarantee you, I can get you a good price.

 

[OR VietVet]

Just talked to the Duramax owner. He does not want to pay for a new mirror and does not want to fix it before sale. Whoever may want this, will get a reduced price for that mirror. It is cracked and does not move with the inside adjustment switch but you can see out of it while driving. It is set at the right spot for viewing beside and behind the driver. Could likely get a salvage yard mirror someplace.

 

[OR VietVet]

My 10:00 appointment showed this morning for brake inspection. was complaining of noise and vibes. I heard the dragging noise going slow thru the neighborhood, where noises bounce back off the homes. At highway speed and on exit ramp, has severe pulsation. Can feel in steering wheel and seat of pants. The pads are all wearing even and are very thin and brake fluid was low from displacement. I ordered in 2 new front rotors, 2 new rear rotors, front pads and rear pads, from RA.

When I went to tear it down, each wheel had a theft lug nut and I had to use the special tool for that. I told him I don't want to put them back on and then repeat when we do brake work. He gave me money and I went to the local AZ and with my military discount, 4 shouldered chrome cap lug nuts were $12.14. He paid with his c/c for the brake parts and gave me a $20 for the lug nuts and $30 for the inspection. He will pay me $240 for the labor when I do the work.

Both front and rear pads come with shims and all hardware/clips.

So....next week I will be doing the brake work and the 2 window regulators on the 2005 GMC Duramax.

 

[iamdub]

Was all set to take it back and tried all the windows. The left rear went right down but stopped 1/2 way up. Went back down easy and then 1/2 way up and stopped but could hear a grinding crackling noise. No matter how I tried to help it up, it was stuck. Called him. said what I expected, "Worked fine the last time I used it". That could have been years ago. Back window of a crew cab and he can only get around with a rolling walker. Removed the inside door cover and tried it again and narrowed down the noise to where the cables go in and out of the motor housing. Then I found it. The cable is coming apart.

View attachment 410738View attachment 410739

I'm quite familiar with that exact sound you described! The cable frayed and got wrapped up in itself inside, on that spool. My driver window did this five years ago. I took it apart to see what I needed to order to replace it. Ended up taking the assembly apart and replacing the cable. Then put the money I would've spent towards H3 mounts: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1283960

 

[OR VietVet]

The driver's side outside mirror looks to be very expensive when buying new. Best price I can find is a dreaded Dorman mirror at RA for $592.79. Genuine GM is way up there. I reached out to @915_Tahoe and am waiting to hear back.

Does anyone know of a used mirror option? Thanks.

@915_Tahoe got back to me with the correct mirror part number. It was what I thought it was but was blown away by the almost $600 Dorman price at RA and wanted to be sure.
Owner is still not gonna spring for the part.

Does anyone have a link or 5 for used GM truck parts like this mirror?

 

[OR VietVet]

I'm quite familiar with that exact sound you described! The cable frayed and got wrapped up in itself inside, on that spool. My driver window did this five years ago. I took it apart to see what I needed to order to replace it. Ended up taking the assembly apart and replacing the cable. Then put the money I would've spent towards H3 mounts: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1283960

At my age, I am more of a parts replacer than opening components up and replacing a part inside. Plus, it is the customer's money.