2012 yukon xl slt, none of my tire pressures are reading on the display. It says service tire pressure monitor system. And at the same time my key fobs don’t work to lock and unlock the doors. I looked at my fuses and all that have to do with the locks look fine. Are these two problems tied together somehow. They both quit working right at the same time so I thought they might share a fuse or something. I don’t see any fuse labeled related to the tire pressure monitor, thanks.
Tire pressure monitor error and fob not working at the same time?
- Thread starter oldskier
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I looked at the dsm fuse and it looked good but I changed it anyway. Still have the same problem. Is there a receiving module or controller that gets the signal from the tires and fob that might be bad that I could replace without to much hassle.
it's the module in that pic.. you might search RCDLR and see what you find. I would guess it would be have to be flashed when replaced.
I don't know much about it. I don't even know where it's at. if you find it, you might check the connections and for power at it.
I don't know much about it. I don't even know where it's at. if you find it, you might check the connections and for power at it.
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When was the last time that you changed the battery in your key fob?
Have 2 fobs and both don’t work and the tire pressure monitor is malfunctioning at the same time, I’m pretty sure it has to do with the dsm from what I’ve seen so far.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) module is used for the remote fobs as well as the TPMS sensors. It is located in the drivers rear quarter panel behind the rear wheel well.
I would suggest having someone with a Tech 2 or equivalent type scanner check the module.
So is it accessed from under the vehicle or is it accessed from taking off some of the interior molding. Also is there a way to try and reset this module? Can I do what I have seen on YouTube where I disconnect the battery and short the neg and pos cables together for 10 min. Would that do any good or does that mess stuff up.
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kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
You have to remove interior panels to access it. Removing the cables and shorting them together won't hurt anything but also probably not necessary. Just disconnect the positive and then turn the key to the on position for a few minutes, it will accomplish the same thing. You are essentially just draining any residual power from capacitors in the modules.
I doubt that it will fix anything, but it doesn't cost anything to try. Just be sure you turn key off before reinstalling the battery cable.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
The RCDLR module is under the D-pillar speaker on the driver's side and a new one must be programmed to the vehicle.
To get at it, you pull down the upper trim panel in the rear door and then pop the little cover off the D-pillar to get at the 7mm screw and then gently pry it out. Of course there are some wires attached to it for the speaker.
It's number 1 in the picture.
5StarG3neral
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I had this issue a few months ago and thought it was the RCDLR. Replaced it with a new one, still no communication to it.
Turned out to be some broken wiring going through the drivers side door jam that supplied that module with power. My mechanic just ran a new power wire back to it and reprogrammed the new module and it worked. I would suggest getting the wiring checked as well if you've tried replacing the module already.
Turned out to be some broken wiring going through the drivers side door jam that supplied that module with power. My mechanic just ran a new power wire back to it and reprogrammed the new module and it worked. I would suggest getting the wiring checked as well if you've tried replacing the module already.
Thanks I will probably check it with a meter to make sure it has 12v going to it before I bring it in. How much did it end up costing you. Did you replace the part or your mechanic?
5StarG3neral
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Got the part from rockauto. I believe it was something to the tune of 50 to 60$.
He charged me $100 TO diagnose and run a new power wire
I don’t know how to link a post, but if you can search for my 1st post from June 12th of this year titled “Long time lurker…”, you may find it helpful.
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