What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Scottydoggs

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Nope. Not unless they either take the time to destroy the steering column or remove the front prop shaft. You can’t get to the shift linkage on the trans because propshaft. The one time someone did try to steal it, they spent their effort on the ignition cylinder and switch. Passlock stopped them. They never got it into neutral either. Besides, if someone want’s something bad enough they can get it. I’m pretty sure the idiots in this town will still be trying to get the thing to start when I break their necks.
ive seen security vids. 20 seconds and gone. you can see em rip it out of park. then another truck pushed it off.
 

03catburban

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ive seen security vids. 20 seconds and gone. you can see em rip it out of park. then another truck pushed it off.
this would help with that issue but they are pricey.
 

Walchit

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Hindsight is always 20/20 isn’t it? :gathering:
I actually had the foresight, but I didnt wanna use the boards I have cause they are pretty decent looking, lol. I'll probably round up a sheet of plywood or something for the install.

I ended up wiggling it out enough to get a strap on the front leg and pulling it out like the anchor guy in a tug of war, lol
 

ncalvo

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Replaced heater hoses and tees yesterday, they were the original to the truck I figured it was a good investment. Vice grips with a sawzall blade became my friend to get the old ones out. Also replaced coolant temp sensor, steam pipe gaskets up front, radiator, expansion tank. Then did the efan conversion, replaced the electrical box cover, got the new harness to fit in the OEM location but had to do some moving around there was a harness right there in that spot already.
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Tonyrodz

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Replaced heater hoses and tees yesterday, they were the original to the truck I figured it was a good investment. Vice grips with a sawzall blade became my friend to get the old ones out. Also replaced coolant temp sensor, steam pipe gaskets up front, radiator, expansion tank. Then did the efan conversion, replaced the electrical box cover, got the new harness to fit in the OEM location but had to do some moving around there was a harness right there in that spot already.View attachment 395058View attachment 395059
How will you activate your fans?
 

ScottyBoy

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Just realized how bad my truck looks with the turn signals looking like crap. Water has been getting in, and it ate away at the chrome finish in the inside of the light, so the light now looks all d and black and nasty looking, yet the passenger side light still looks new.
Does anyone know where I can get some GOOD quality all clear bumper lights/turn signal lights for a NBS? I don't like the ones with orange reflectors, not even the small tiny reflectors. I prefer completely chrome and clear or if possible a clear/white reflector. Haven't seen any with clear/white reflectors for sale in well over 10 years now. I have gone through a few sets of cheap Egay clear turn signals and they ALL end up leaking. Some leak after 6-8 months, some have lasted 2-3 years before leaking, but they ALL end up leaking.
 

ncalvo

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How will you activate your fans?
I had my truck tuned already and he turned the fans on when he did that, which motivated me to do the conversion.
My only regret is not knowing enough ahead of time about the settings, my ac system settings are maxed out so the fans only respond to coolant temp. I don't get cold AC until my truck warms up to 184 and they kick on.
 

Tonyrodz

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Just realized how bad my truck looks with the turn signals looking like crap. Water has been getting in, and it ate away at the chrome finish in the inside of the light, so the light now looks all d and black and nasty looking, yet the passenger side light still looks new.
Does anyone know where I can get some GOOD quality all clear bumper lights/turn signal lights for a NBS? I don't like the ones with orange reflectors, not even the small tiny reflectors. I prefer completely chrome and clear or if possible a clear/white reflector. Haven't seen any with clear/white reflectors for sale in well over 10 years now. I have gone through a few sets of cheap Egay clear turn signals and they ALL end up leaking. Some leak after 6-8 months, some have lasted 2-3 years before leaking, but they ALL end up leaking.
Whenever I buy a new lens--aftermarket or oem, I always run a thin bead of silicone around the inside edge where the clear and black come together. I then put some dielectric (sp?)grease on the bulb gasket. I haven't had a leaky lens yet.
 

mattbta

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I had my truck tuned already and he turned the fans on when he did that, which motivated me to do the conversion.
My only regret is not knowing enough ahead of time about the settings, my ac system settings are maxed out so the fans only respond to coolant temp. I don't get cold AC until my truck warms up to 184 and they kick on.
So the fan turn-on AC pressures were not changed, only ECT temps set?
 

MassHoe04

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Just realized how bad my truck looks with the turn signals looking like crap. Water has been getting in, and it ate away at the chrome finish in the inside of the light, so the light now looks all d and black and nasty looking, yet the passenger side light still looks new.
Does anyone know where I can get some GOOD quality all clear bumper lights/turn signal lights for a NBS? I don't like the ones with orange reflectors, not even the small tiny reflectors. I prefer completely chrome and clear or if possible a clear/white reflector. Haven't seen any with clear/white reflectors for sale in well over 10 years now. I have gone through a few sets of cheap Egay clear turn signals and they ALL end up leaking. Some leak after 6-8 months, some have lasted 2-3 years before leaking, but they ALL end up leaking.
I am not sure if they offer any options without orange reflectors, but I got TYC brand from RockAuto. They were stock replacements. I can tell you they were same build quality, fit and finish as the originals. All the adjustment hardware (i got headlight and turn signal assemblies) and everything was identical to the factory ones I was replacing. They look great and no leaks of fogging. I did not add any sealer anywhere on them and they are holding up great.

If they do offer one that matches the style you are looking for, I would say get them.

But for strictly stock replacements, I have been more than happy with TYC.
 

ncalvo

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Also - with the temp settings where they are and the disable speed at 0, they might be running all the time when warmed up. (You might want that specifically)
Thanks for the info guys, looks like I am going to want these settings changed.
My tuner was all about running my truck cold and more power.
 

Scottydoggs

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this would help with that issue but they are pricey.
cables can be cut in 10 seconds. lets just say, if they really want it they are going to take it.
 

ncalvo

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Does anyone have a screenshot of their e-fan settings so I can compare mine. I am thinking adjusting ac pressures, and disable speed of 65mph. Not sure if I should change delays/min run time.
 

Scottydoggs

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Does anyone have a screenshot of their e-fan settings so I can compare mine. I am thinking adjusting ac pressures, and disable speed of 65mph. Not sure if I should change delays/min run time.
05 tahoe fan settings. all stock, dont think i messed with em. i turn on my ac and the fans just come on.
 

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Rocket Man

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I’ve been waiting on a Cardone MC reservoir for 6 months, they’re backordered. I just want to replace my old stained one. So I found a cheap MC complete with the reservoir and plan on swapping the reservoir onto my MC without removing it and hopefully not need a flush. I have heard of someone else doing this with no bleed necessary. I’m thinking as long as there is a bit of fluid in the bottom of the MC I’ll be gtg. Anybody done this?
 

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mattbta

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05 tahoe fan settings. all stock, dont think i messed with em. i turn on my ac and the fans just come on.
AC pressures look stock but the ECT parameters are lower than factory. I am slightly higher than you but not as high as factory.

@ncalvo i think the general feeling these days is LS motors don’t need to run super cool. When they first landed in the f-bodies back in 1998, we did everything we could to prevent heat from being a possible problem. TB bypasses, resistors in the IAT sensor, fans on all the time, 160* thermostats. None of it made a difference and heat soak wasn’t an issue with composite intakes and aluminum heads/block. Granted if you hotlapped it at the track you might see a small ET penalty. And our 5.3 blocks are iron, but too cool can be detrimental.

Opinions, I know.
 
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RAMurphy

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I’ve been waiting on a Cardone MC reservoir for 6 months, they’re backordered. I just want to replace my old stained one. So I found a cheap MC complete with the reservoir and plan on swapping the reservoir onto my MC without removing it and hopefully not need a flush. I have heard of someone else doing this with no bleed necessary. I’m thinking as long as there is a bit of fluid in the bottom of the MC I’ll be gtg. Anybody done this?
Ha Ha. So you did decided to change the brake reservoir after changing the coolant reservoir. I was going to do that but thought it would be to much work. Let us know your step by step process. I might follow your lead.
 

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