Let's sift through every square inch of a 2013 Tahoe PPV

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Caddylack

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Okay... Let's talk about ride height and stance and wheel well gap.

While I am very pleased with the way the PPV handles, I can't leave "good enough" alone.

I'm still not entirely sure if I want the car to be lower, or if I just want bigger wheels.

Eventually, I figure I will add 22-24" rims, as well as an aftermarket front bumper. I probably need to do those things first, before deciding to lower.

I need new shocks, at minimum. I'd like to keep the PPV springs, I think.

I read something about removing a 1" block in the rear, but I don't know if this applies to the PPV. What about drop spindles with stock PPV suspension?

I might have to go with the Belltech adjustable setup, just to make sure I end up happy.

Thoughts?
 

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Okay... Let's talk about ride height and stance and wheel well gap.

While I am very pleased with the way the PPV handles, I can't leave "good enough" alone.

I'm still not entirely sure if I want the car to be lower, or if I just want bigger wheels.

Eventually, I figure I will add 22-24" rims, as well as an aftermarket front bumper. I probably need to do those things first, before deciding to lower.

I need new shocks, at minimum. I'd like to keep the PPV springs, I think.

I read something about removing a 1" block in the rear, but I don't know if this applies to the PPV. What about drop spindles with stock PPV suspension?

I might have to go with the Belltech adjustable setup, just to make sure I end up happy.

Thoughts?

Welcome back!

The shocks are tuned to complement the springs, so you might like or dislike the ride after changing them. I've never known SUVs to have a block (spacer?) in the rear. The trucks, with their leaf springs, do.

Drop spindles would maintain the ride characteristics, but be 2" lower. 1.75" if you go with McGaughy spindles. For the rear, all you can do to lower it is get different springs. You might be able to use regular Tahoe coils and trim them. This would lower it but also increase the spring rate, possibly back to around that the PPV coils. You'd have to experiment with how much to cut off, so you'd take off a little at a time, install and see where it sits. Stop when you get it a little higher than where you want it to sit cuz they'll settle a hair after some driving. At least they're really quick and easy to take in and out.
 
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Welcome back!

The shocks are tuned to complement the springs, so you might like or dislike the ride after changing them. I've never known SUVs to have a block (spacer?) in the rear. The trucks, with their leaf springs, do.

Drop spindles would maintain the ride characteristics, but be 2" lower. 1.75" if you go with McGaughy spindles. For the rear, all you can do to lower it is get different springs. You might be able to use regular Tahoe coils and trim them. This would lower it but also increase the spring rate, possibly back to around that the PPV coils. You'd have to experiment with how much to cut off, so you'd take off a little at a time, install and see where it sits. Stop when you get it a little higher than where you want it to sit cuz they'll settle a hair after some driving. At least they're really quick and easy to take in and out.
Ah, okay. I must have been reading about a Silverado and not realized it.

Given this info, I think I will keep my stock PPV ride height. Bigger wheels and a more aggressive front bumper should do it for me.

I got up to a full 130 mph the other day, and for a moment I thought that the 3.08 gears were kinda nice. BUT, if I get bigger wheels, that will result in 3.73s.

I'm definitely going to be doing the MIT at some point, as well as getting my muffler and tip installed. The muffler and tip might be soon.

I want to do something about my busted upper dash panel; either repair it or cover it. I also need a couple of nice floor mats, because I have a heel hole on the driver's side.
 

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Ah, okay. I must have been reading about a Silverado and not realized it.

Given this info, I think I will keep my stock PPV ride height. Bigger wheels and a more aggressive front bumper should do it for me.

I got up to a full 130 mph the other day, and for a moment I thought that the 3.08 gears were kinda nice. BUT, if I get bigger wheels, that will result in 3.73s.

I'm definitely going to be doing the MIT at some point, as well as getting my muffler and tip installed. The muffler and tip might be soon.

I want to do something about my busted upper dash panel; either repair it or cover it. I also need a couple of nice floor mats, because I have a heel hole on the driver's side.

The PPV tire, as calculated by the advertised specs on the sidewall, is 29.5" tall. The civilian Tahoe, whether it has the 17", 18" or 22" wheels, have tire sizes yielding a 32" tall tire, plus or minus a few tenths. So, the PPV has a rather large 2.5" diameter difference. Between that and the 2009+ having the 6-speed trans, the 3.08 gear isn't "bad".

Mine has 3.73s and the 4-speed. It'd probably be at least half a second quicker in the quarter mile just by having the 6-speed.

If you get a wheel and tire combo around 32", you'll likely feel the difference in acceleration. You'll also be sitting 1.25" higher. A 2" drop spindle would lower it while maintaining the PPV ride characteristics. If 2" is too much front drop, you can use a thin strut spacer to fine-tune it. For the rear, I'm sure there are some firm 2" drop coils that would be close enough to the PPV spring rate. Same applies for the rear- if 2" is too much, slip in a spacer.

3.73s with the 6-speed would feel pretty nice accelerating from a stop.
 
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My wheel plans just finalized.

I'm doing the 22x9 transport steelies with chrome caps, to keep the police theme.

The below picture shows the wheels I'm talking about, but without caps. Credit goes to whoever owns the car.

cd0de256-86b6-483b-94e9-fb170b0369fd-jpeg.jpg
 
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Every time I've seen a set they were $1500+




That didn't take very long.
 
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That didn't take very long.
No need to be a jerk about it. I made a simple comment.
 
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No need to be a jerk about it. I made a simple comment.
I apologize, I didn't mean it like that. Tone of voice is everything.

My point was just that you posted here instead of googling, which would have been faster.
 

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My wheel plans just finalized.

I'm doing the 22x9 transport steelies with chrome caps, to keep the police theme.

The below picture shows the wheels I'm talking about, but without caps. Credit goes to whoever owns the car.

View attachment 388069

They're so damned hard to find for a fair price. I saw a set on my local MarketPlace a couple months back. I think he wanted $800.
 
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Why are they still hard to find after 3 links were posted?
 
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How do I turn off stabilitrak? It was messing with my snow drifting. I had no idea it would actually cut engine power.
 

iamdub

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Why are they still hard to find after 3 links were posted?

My point was that they're hard to find for a fair price these days. Really, the ones in that first link you posted wouldn't be bad at $720 shipped. It's the market and what you're willing to pay that determines the deal. My feelings are from the perspective that, a few years ago, they were $400-$500 any day.
 

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How do I turn off stabilitrak? It was messing with my snow drifting. I had no idea it would actually cut engine power.

Press and hold the traction control button for about 10 seconds. On the DIC, "Traction Control Off" will display. After about 10 seconds, it'll read "Stabilitrak Off".

IIRC, it'll turn itself back on beyond a certain level of hooning. I think you could remove the ABS fuse to fully disable it.
 
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Press and hold the traction control button for about 10 seconds. On the DIC, "Traction Control Off" will display. After about 10 seconds, it'll read "Stabilitrak Off".

IIRC, it'll turn itself back on beyond a certain level of hooning. I think you could remove the ABS fuse to fully disable it.
Oh, okay. I think I read that it turns back on after 35 mph.
 

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