*Update: Engine Down* Cam/lifter upgrades?

[RLC2020]

Make sure they disable the DOD once they install the kit and fire it back up. Just putting the plugs in place isn't enough. The kit from Glenn's Performance is awesome.

Hopefully these guys know what they are doing. They are LS performance specialists. He assured me there will be no DOD components left in the motor. I will of course make sure of that before I pick it up. He confirmed that he engine looks alright internally, they are going to do the new lifters, plugs, wires, oil change, then test it out for me. Should be done by the end of the week or early next week.

 

[joe_joe]

Good luck with the build. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Rocket Man]

Hopefully these guys know what they are doing. They are LS performance specialists. He assured me there will be no DOD components left in the motor. I will of course make sure of that before I pick it up. He confirmed that he engine looks alright internally, they are going to do the new lifters, plugs, wires, oil change, then test it out for me. Should be done by the end of the week or early next week.

So you didn’t opt for the upgrades?

 

[RLC2020]

^ no, he said with all the labor involved it would be an extra $3k to swap the cam and associated parts and it would only be about a 40hp increase. I guess on 2015+ there's a lot more labor to change the oil pump, motor has to come out since I'm 4wd and the pan can't be dropped without pulling the motor. I'm going to do an air intake and maybe some exhaust work instead. I can have 15-20hp for a few hundred and be happy.

 

[joe_joe]

^ no, he said with all the labor involved it would be an extra $3k to swap the cam and associated parts and it would only be about a 40hp increase. I guess on 2015+ there's a lot more labor to change the oil pump, motor has to come out since I'm 4wd and the pan can't be dropped without pulling the motor. I'm going to do an air intake and maybe some exhaust work instead. I can have 15-20hp for a few hundred and be happy.

Yeah, it was easier pulling the motor and replacing all the supporting hardware and gaskets then trying to do it while still in the vehicle. Look at the Volant intake. I added a Magnaflow muffler and am happy with the sound.

Dang, an extra $3k? I am glad I was able to do this install in my buddies shop. I do think the grand total for all the parts I ended up buying was about $3k, but not having to pay for labor was clutch lol.

 

[Rocket Man]

^ no, he said with all the labor involved it would be an extra $3k to swap the cam and associated parts and it would only be about a 40hp increase. I guess on 2015+ there's a lot more labor to change the oil pump, motor has to come out since I'm 4wd and the pan can't be dropped without pulling the motor. I'm going to do an air intake and maybe some exhaust work instead. I can have 15-20hp for a few hundred and be happy.

That’s kind of ridiculous imo. For one thing, you don’t need an oil pump at 70k and it has nothing to do with a different cam so the engine doesn’t need to come out. Second, you’re already buying a new cam and lifters so the only difference would be new springs for a higher lift cam. Labor would be the same. A tune is normally $500 which should add up to less than $1000. Oh well, glad to hear you’re getting it done and you should be good to go.

 

[RLC2020]

yeah, I'm getting nailed cost wise, but that's what happens when I can't do the work myself. I would do this, but my new garage isn't built yet and my wife and I just welcomed our 3rd child this week so I do not have the time to deal with anything, let alone a project this involved.

I'll just be happy that I have no more DOD and a running engine again, I was pretty sure I was in for a new engine so I feel that I'm getting off easy.
$3k out the door for lifters, dod block offs, plugs, wires, pushrods, oil change. I feel like that's not the end of the world.

My buddy's wife was just quoted $5k for new cats and mufflers on her Honda Pilot to put it in perspective, lol.

 

[Rocket Man]

yeah, I'm getting nailed cost wise, but that's what happens when I can't do the work myself. I would do this, but my new garage isn't built yet and my wife and I just welcomed our 3rd child this week so I do not have the time to deal with anything, let alone a project this involved.

I'll just be happy that I have no more DOD and a running engine again, I was pretty sure I was in for a new engine so I feel that I'm getting off easy.
$3k out the door for lifters, dod block offs, plugs, wires, pushrods, oil change. I feel like that's not the end of the world.

My buddy's wife was just quoted $5k for new cats and mufflers on her Honda Pilot to put it in perspective, lol.

Congrats on the new kiddo!

 

[RLC2020]

Well, It's done! It's running great other than a slight rpm fluctuation at idle. he said they'll take a look at it this weekend for me. It feels great though, better than before the lifter failed. Nice smooth power now and it's in V8 all the time. I'll attach pics of the invoice so you can see what they did. I feel that they did a good job and got me out of there in less than a week. The other shop said new motor, these guys seem to have pulled it off without having to resort to that.

 

[joe_joe]

Glad you're back on the road. I too noticed it ran so much better than factory once I fixed mine. It is legit a brand new vehicle.

 

[ThisIsLivin]

I made it to 176k before a non-DOD lifter failed. I had them replace all lifters valve springs, seals and rebuild rocker arms with bushings. You want to replace the oil pump as the stock pump is designed for DOD which requires more flow. I had them replace the cam with a non-DOD stock spec cam as I do a lot of towing and the stock cam gives me good torque in my towing range. I needed cooling lines and a motor mount. They also tested all injectors

 

[RLC2020]

I think I have an injector stuck open at the moment. It's idling like crap, but fine one you get on the throttle. I also had a bank 2 too rich code pop up. It's going back in thursday for that to be fixed. I kind of wish I did the cam, but the budget did not really allow that at the moment. As it sits now, I have the stock cam still in place, he just replaced the lifters for non dod ls7's and put it back together. Rods were done as well, but only because 1 was bent. Everything else is still stock.

 

[rbromm]

FWIW I have a ‘15 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2 L86. I bought CPO with 23K on it, I installed a Range AFM disabler at 30K and at 78K I still had a failed AFM lifter. The repair was covered under the power train warranty at the time. After the repair I put the Range AFM disabler device back in and it’s been in since. Currently at 140K with no lifter issues…

Just thought I’d share some food for thought. I personally do not think that just a tune or AFM disabler is enough to add longevity.

It’s really a dice roll in my opinion. TO be honest if you’re considering going through a mechanical delete of the AFM with cam, lifters, etc. you would be good for far more than an additional 100K miles.

Plenty of threads on here with AFM delete parts list, different experience/results with different cams, etc.

What weight and type of oil are you running preceding lifter failure? Was there any excess varnish on the failed lifters?

 

[CMoore711]

What weight and type of oil are you running preceding lifter failure? Was there any excess varnish on the failed lifters?

Just the mfg recommended 0W20 for the 6.2 L86. Most oil early on was synthetic dexos from the dealer or Mobile 1.

Now I use all Amsoil Signature 0W20 and filters and change every 4K miles. Usually when I change my oil my oil life gauge still says 30%+/-.

Not sure exactly how the lifters looked at the time of the repair as it was done at the dealer.

 

[rbromm]

Just the mfg recommended 0W20 for the 6.2 L86. Most oil early on was synthetic dexos from the dealer or Mobile 1.

Now I use all Amsoil Signature 0W20 and filters and change every 4K miles. Usually when I change my oil my oil life gauge still says 30%+/-.

Not sure exactly how the lifters looked at the time of the repair as it was done at the dealer.

Thanks. I have been using Amsoil 0-20 Signature oil since new but only change mine once a year. I rarely drive more than 12k a year. Amsoil has amazing detergents and does a great job capturing and suspending contaminates. Do you also run 93 octane? I do and mine doesn’t cycle in and out of the 4cyl mode as often and pulls better on 4. Guess it is just a crap shoot on when they will fail. I can do the repair work myself but I sure dread pulling the heads off in that engine bay. 72 yrs old and just not as physical as I used to be.

 

[CMoore711]

@rbromm Yes all I run is 93 octane; Typically all Top Tier gas unless I find myself in a desperate pinch. I also have a Range AFM disabler device that keeps mine in V8 mode all the time. Not a “permanent solution”, but I like to think it helps. I drive quite a bit more than you, easily do 25-30K miles a year.