What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

Just talked to the shop. The emissions inspection passed and is ready (even with my BT Dieselworks AutoSync plugged into a OBD splitter cable.

They didn't do the alignment because of the bad ball joints and tie rod when doing the before alignment inspection. They quoted me $2100 for all of it including alignment (2 upper arms, 2 lower ball joints, 1 inner tie rod) and needing all day to do it.

I would look at the 1a auto/trq kit you might save a few bucks, I used one on the wife's 05 seems to be a quality kit. got everything uppers, lowers, inner & outer, tie rod ends. pitman, idler and sway end links for $400. I had picked up a remaned steering box as well and had it all installed and aligned $1100 or 1200 one of the two

 

[Geotrash]

What's involved in the inner tie rod replacement? I've done them on other vehicles, does the yukon have pretty much the same setup or is there something special?

Easy peasy. The inner tie rod comes off with a 40mm open end wrench and they also make an inner tie rod removal tool if you're feeling fancy.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I just got back from picking the vehicle up. Parts cost is around $750 and labor is about $1300. They said it's an 8-9 hour job and will probably need it for 2 days and they're scheduling for about a week and a half out (they're currently scheduling apps for next Friday). Said the alignment would take up a lot of time.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I would look at the 1a auto/trq kit you might save a few bucks, I used one on the wife's 05 seems to be a quality kit. got everything uppers, lowers, inner & outer, tie rod ends. pitman, idler and sway end links for $400. I had picked up a remaned steering box as well and had it all installed and aligned $1100 or 1200 one of the two

Those kits look pretty complete and a good price. If I go this route I'll probably get the 15pc kit that includes the hub/bearing. Since I'm doing everything else...... Lol

Is that brand good/reliable?

I quickly priced out 2 uppers, 2 ball joints, and an inner tie rod on RockAuto using GM parts and it came to roughly $265. The TRQ kit with everything but CV shafts is $339. With the axles it's $579

 

[89Suburban]

Well I'm now only getting a misfire code 302 on #2 which of course didn't get the code until almost dark. The problem plug was number 7 snapped a shaft I tighten all up and no error on that side.

Same thing on mine #7 gets fouled up and throws that code, puts the truck in limp mode. I've had to replace that plug twice in the 50K I have owned the truck. 2nd time around we tried a step up in higher heat range to combat it. So far so good.

 

[Doubeleive]

I just got back from picking the vehicle up. Parts cost is around $750 and labor is about $1300. They said it's an 8-9 hour job and will probably need it for 2 days and they're scheduling for about a week and a half out (they're currently scheduling apps for next Friday). Said the alignment would take up a lot of time.

how many miles? I am at about 145k and I have only had the upper control arms replaced and it dials in the alignment dam near perfect still. steering is tight.

 

[Doubeleive]

Those kits look pretty complete and a good price. If I go this route I'll probably get the 15pc kit that includes the hub/bearing. Since I'm doing everything else...... Lol

Is that brand good/reliable?

I quickly priced out 2 uppers, 2 ball joints, and an inner tie rod on RockAuto using GM parts and it came to roughly $265

I can't speak for there hubs but the steering/suspension parts seem to be decent, if you look on amazon they list a bunch of kits and ebay as well. I think I ended up getting it off amazon. the 05 went from dam near scary to drive to like new

 

[Geotrash]

I just got back from picking the vehicle up. Parts cost is around $750 and labor is about $1300. They said it's an 8-9 hour job and will probably need it for 2 days and they're scheduling for about a week and a half out (they're currently scheduling apps for next Friday). Said the alignment would take up a lot of time.

Not a bad savings for a weekend's worth of work. When I did my 2007, I took it to Firestone after I completed the work and paid for lifetime alignment.

 

[gooffeyguy]

how many miles? I am at about 145k and I have only had the upper control arms replaced and it dials in the alignment dam near perfect still. steering is tight.

137k miles. They said the lower joints had lots of play and they wouldn't pass it if doing a safety inspection and the uppers had some and would probably pass.

 

[Geotrash]

Is that brand good/reliable?

Hopefully they're better than Moog's budget line. I had to use one of Moog's budget lower control arms for the left front because their premium line was sold out at the time. 30K later and the ball joint rubber boot is cracking and about to spring a leak. The premium one still looks like new.

This is one of those times when buying OEM or top-of-the-line parts is probably a good idea.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Hopefully they're better than Moog's budget line. I had to use one of Moog's budget lower control arms for the left front because their premium line was sold out at the time. 30K later and the ball joint rubber boot is cracking and about to spring a leak. The premium one still looks like new.

That's why I was looking at GM OE parts. I also noticed RockAuto has GM OE lower control arms with ball joints. I replaced the ball joints on my 2011 Denali a month before it got totaled and it wasn't too bad a job but it wasn't easy getting the old ones out. I have the press, but if I remember correctly there was a lot of hitting it with a 3lb hammer to get it out, then the press to get the new one in. Wonder how much easier/harder replacing the entire control arm would be in comparison.

 

[Doubeleive]

Hopefully they're better than Moog's budget line. I had to use one of Moog's budget lower control arms for the left front because their premium line was sold out at the time. 30K later and the ball joint rubber boot is cracking and about to spring a leak. The premium one still looks like new.

This is one of those times when buying OEM or top-of-the-line parts is probably a good idea.

true, I like to buy oem stuff as long as it not a long list of things then it gets pricey

 

[Geotrash]

That's why I was looking at GM OE parts. I also noticed RockAuto has GM OE lower control arms with ball joints. I replaced the ball joints on my 2011 Denali a month before it got totaled and it wasn't too bad a job but it wasn't easy getting the old ones out. I have the press, but if I remember correctly there was a lot of hitting it with a 3lb hammer to get it out, then the press to get the new one in. Wonder how much easier/harder replacing the entire control arm would be in comparison.

In my opinion, full control arms with ball joints already installed is the way to go. I think it's like an extra $50 each. That way you get new bushings, too.

 

[Amaster]

Same thing on mine #7 gets fouled up and throws that code, puts the truck in limp mode. I've had to replace that plug twice in the 50K I have owned the truck. 2nd time around we tried a step up in higher heat range to combat it. So far so good.

Yours throws a code for number 2 miss fire?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Easy peasy. The inner tie rod comes off with a 40mm open end wrench and they also make an inner tie rod removal tool if you're feeling fancy.

Would a big adjustable (Crescent style) wrench work? Largest open end I have is 35mm

 

[89Suburban]

Same thing on mine #7 gets fouled up and throws that code, puts the truck in limp mode. I've had to replace that plug twice in the 50K I have owned the truck. 2nd time around we tried a step up in higher heat range to combat it. So far so good.

I'm sorry I meant just a regular misfire code. I had to track down which cylinder it was.

 

[swathdiver]

Would a big adjustable (Crescent style) wrench work? Largest open end I have is 35mm

Inner tie rod is 36mm! Use a crow's foot with 3/8th drive for most clearance. Used a 15" adjustable wrench (Tekton 23006) on one side and the crow's foot on the other if memory serves. That's wrong, it is 40mm. Thanks for the correction Dave! @Geotrash

Next time I do this work on a 900, I will purchase the J-43631 and J-45851 to separate the lower ball joint and J-42188-B to separate the upper ball joint. Spent hours last time going out to the store to buy a separator and then several more hours modifying it to work and still had to use a dremel to cut part of the ball joint away so it would work. Lot of time wasted.

 

[Geotrash]

Would a big adjustable (Crescent style) wrench work? Largest open end I have is 35mm

Yes, it should

 

[Geotrash]

Inner tie rod is 36mm! Use a crow's foot with 3/8th drive for most clearance. Used an adjustable wrench (Tekton 23006) on one side and the crow's foot on the other if memory serves.

Next time I do this work on a 900, I will purchase the J-43631 and J-45851 to separate the lower ball joint and J-42188-B to separate the upper ball joint. Spent hours last time going out to the store to buy a separator and then several more hours modifying it to work and still had to use a dremel to cut part of the ball joint away so it would work. Lot of time wasted.

Mine was definitely 40mm. I have the wrench to prove it! It’s also perfect for working on computers.

 

[swathdiver]

Mine was definitely 40mm. I have the wrench to prove it! It’s also perfect for working on computers.

You are correct, I was wrong! 40mm it is. @gooffeyguy