6.2l DOD Delete parts list

[Enoob]

I've reviewed the other posts on what some have done for this, however I am an engine novice. I had a lifter collapse, so I am now in progress with this job. Here is a list of parts I am looking to go with. I am not looking for any real increase in power, etc., but something reliable and retaining VVT. I'm at about 180k with a body in very good condition and plan to keep this a while. Generally just used for family travel with occasionally pulling a boat. I was told this cam will be fine, but would like some confirmation of that. The heads are being gone over, but looked pretty good when removed. Do I need to do anything with the pressure relief plug in the oil pan? I was thinking of plugging the oil ports under the valley cover and cannot find what someone else used for this - like a roller from an A-37 bearing? Am I correct in being able to use standard length rods with the cam change? Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.

GM LS2 lifter Trays (ahh yes, GM only)
Comp Cam lifters 4-850-16 LS/LT
GM Cam 1262660 Non DOD, Retains VVT
GM intake rockers (8) 1296105
GM exhaust rockers (8) 12681275
GM LS2 chain Dampener
Cloyes timing crank sprocket S827
Cloyes timing Chain 94205
TSP timing cover gasket like 12633904
TSP front crank seal like 12585673
GM LS1/LS6/LT1 wet sump balancer bolt (12557840?)
GML92 valley cover, no pcv
TSP gen IV head bolts TSPHB0568
TSP head gasket TSPHG0046
GM oil pump standard volume 12710304
Melling pickup tube bracket M29500
GM oil pan gasket 12612350
ACDelco VVT solenoid Actuator 12682000
Fel-Pro valve cover gasket VS50504R
Mahle valve cover grommets GS33466
Dorman exhaust flange stud & nuts 03133
Mahle exhaust manifold gaskets MS16124
Mahle camshaft thrust plate MF127
ACDelco plugs 41162
ACDelco wires 748UU

 

[alpha_omega]

Have you checked out https://www.crazedperformancerepair.com/ or any of his YouTube videos? If not, there might be some good info on there for you. He has a breakdown list of parts and a few videos going through the delete on a couple different years/engines.

If someone doesn’t get to it before I do, I’ll take a look at your parts list once I get home to see if it all jives. I’m pretty sure there are a couple guys on here who already have the breakdown on their build page. It may however be a different setup than what you have.

 

[Enoob]

I have not see what you mentioned before and am reviewing them. Main concern is that I have the correct cam/lifter set up. Checked with TS earlier and asked if the GM cam would work with the lifters I got from them and was told that any stock GM cam would work. That seemed a little vague to me and was not real comfortable with that answer. Appreciate anyone with that knowledge to comment. Have the oil pan off/cleaned up and will be getting the oil pump off tomorrow and hopefully the cam out. Would like to start re-assembly soon. To get this back on the road sooner than later, would it be good to get the ECM sent off to a place like LT1swap and get the DOD deleted out? No local tune shop where I am. Considering an actual tune down the road if that might help performance. Thanks.

 

[Enoob]

Looks like I had a broken tensioner and not sure what would have caused the squarish spot on one of the lobes? Looking the crank sprocket over as I am not sure I want to try and tackle that if not needed, based on what others say about getting it off.

 

[Enoob]

Should I replace the VVT Sprocket if it looks okay?

 

[Geotrash]

Looks like I had a broken tensioner and not sure what would have caused the squarish spot on one of the lobes? Looking the crank sprocket over as I am not sure I want to try and tackle that if not needed, based on what others say about getting it off.

Classic spalling on the lobe. My guess is a lifter binding up.

Tensioner breakage is a common problem as well. Yes, you can reuse sprocket.

 

[swathdiver]

GM Cam 1262660 Non DOD, Retains VVT

What camshaft is this? Never seen that number before.

An L9H camshaft is or was 12623065 and is spec'd 198-209 .500-.500 115

Gwatyney sells a 6.2 bumpstick that retains VVT and increases power.

 

[Enoob]

Classic spalling on the lobe. My guess is a lifter binding up.

Tensioner breakage is a common problem as well. Yes, you can reuse sprocket.

Thank you. I had one lifter collapse.

What camshaft is this? Never seen that number before.

An L9H camshaft is or was 12623065 and is spec'd 198-209 .500-.500 115

Gwatyney sells a 6.2 bumpstick that retains VVT and increases power.

Texas Speed lists that as an option for a factory non-dod cam when looking at their package options for my vehicle. Specs look to be:
Chevrolet GM OEM Camshaft - L96 - NON-DOD - Retains VVT - 12626660
196/208 .467"/.479" 116 LSA

I do not really know anything about the difference in specs. Learning as I go. Going with what you mention, does that typically require a change in springs, rods or other things?

 

[swathdiver]

Thank you. I had one lifter collapse.


Texas Speed lists that as an option for a factory non-dod cam when looking at their package options for my vehicle. Specs look to be:
Chevrolet GM OEM Camshaft - L96 - NON-DOD - Retains VVT - 12626660
196/208 .467"/.479" 116 LSA

I do not really know anything about the difference in specs. Learning as I go. Going with what you mention, does that typically require a change in springs, rods or other things?

Boy I'd be fuming if I put that thing in my truck and it runs slower! That's a 6.0 camshaft, not the L9H. By deleting AFM, you are basically converting your truck to an L9H, so those knuckleheads ought to give you that camshaft. You don't have to change anything.

 

[Geotrash]

Boy I'd be fuming if I put that thing in my truck and it runs slower! That's a 6.0 camshaft, not the L9H. By deleting AFM, you are basically converting your truck to an L9H, so those knuckleheads ought to give you that camshaft. You don't have to change anything.

Agreed. And @Enoob, I believe you’re going to need a tune to get it running without the AFM system physically in place. You might as well get a cam that can give you a power bump. But, if you’re really after the stock profile, you can use a standard factory L92 cam. It’s designed specifically for the 6.2.

2007 GMC YUKON XL 1500 6.2L V8 Camshaft | Shop Now at RockAuto

Engine Parts and More for Your 2007 GMC YUKON XL 1500 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[Enoob]

Boy I'd be fuming if I put that thing in my truck and it runs slower! That's a 6.0 camshaft, not the L9H. By deleting AFM, you are basically converting your truck to an L9H, so those knuckleheads ought to give you that camshaft. You don't have to change anything.

Ok, well I sure as heck don't want slower. You've got me convinced I do not want to use the cam I noted and not excited about the L9H. TS did not seem very helpful when I was asking about what I needed. Maybe they don't want to sell things.....

Agreed. And @Enoob, I believe you’re going to need a tune to get it running without the AFM system physically in place. You might as well get a cam that can give you a power bump. But, if you’re really after the stock profile, you can use a standard factory L92 cam. It’s designed specifically for the 6.2.

2007 GMC YUKON XL 1500 6.2L V8 Camshaft | Shop Now at RockAuto

Engine Parts and More for Your 2007 GMC YUKON XL 1500 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

So if I go with something other than stock, am I in need of replacing springs, etc., or what cam could I go with that does not require those modifications? I guess at this point, I still have time to do those mods, but just need to know what matches up. Looks like the Melling cams list what I am looking for as a class/stage 1? As I noted, I do some towing, so that would be the mod that I would be most interested in. And also likely doing your Derale cooler mod when I can get to it. Read through the 50+ pages on here about that.....thank you both.

 

[swathdiver]

...and not excited about the L9H.

Why not? Gwatney also makes a camshaft or two that retain VVT. Someone on here has one and I contacted a guy in the comments section on Gwatney's website and he loves it and has been driving it for several years now with no issues. Lifts over .510 require new springs. The L9H camshaft does not.

 

[Geotrash]

Ok, well I sure as heck don't want slower. You've got me convinced I do not want to use the cam I noted and not excited about the L9H. TS did not seem very helpful when I was asking about what I needed. Maybe they don't want to sell things.....

So if I go with something other than stock, am I in need of replacing springs, etc., or what cam could I go with that does not require those modifications? I guess at this point, I still have time to do those mods, but just need to know what matches up. Looks like the Melling cams list what I am looking for as a class/stage 1? As I noted, I do some towing, so that would be the mod that I would be most interested in. And also likely doing your Derale cooler mod when I can get to it. Read through the 50+ pages on here about that.....thank you both.

Replacing the valve springs on an engine with 180K is a good idea anyway. Lots of guys on here have suffered broken valve springs on the 6.2, so I consider it normal maintenance. I really like the Brian Tooley beehive valve springs for these. They can handle more lift than stock springs can (up to .560) and everything I've read from people who have them has been positive. I have about 20K on mine now and they've been great.

You can also give Cam Motion a call and give them your priorities: Truck cam, Durability, drivability (smooth idle), retain VVT, less than .560 lift. and see what they can offer you. They are great consultants and they grind many of the cams for Brian Tooley and others. They can literally do anything you want but they will give you a couple of recommendations. If you do that, you can post the specs here and we will give you feedback on the pros/cons of each and what to expect.

 

[Enoob]

Why not? Gwatney also makes a camshaft or two that retain VVT. Someone on here has one and I contacted a guy in the comments section on Gwatney's website and he loves it and has been driving it for several years now with no issues. Lifts over .510 require new springs. The L9H camshaft does not.

Thank you. Spoke with them and they were helpful. Looking into that one now and yes, he said to do springs. Will post what I end up with.

Replacing the valve springs on an engine with 180K is a good idea anyway. Lots of guys on here have suffered broken valve springs on the 6.2, so I consider it normal maintenance. I really like the Brian Tooley beehive valve springs for these. They can handle more lift than stock springs can (up to .560) and everything I've read from people who have them has been positive. I have about 20K on mine now and they've been great.

You can also give Cam Motion a call and give them your priorities: Truck cam, Durability, drivability (smooth idle), retain VVT, less than .560 lift. and see what they can offer you. They are great consultants and they grind many of the cams for Brian Tooley and others. They can literally do anything you want but they will give you a couple of recommendations. If you do that, you can post the specs here and we will give you feedback on the pros/cons of each and what to expect.

Checked with Cam Motion and they told me they do not offer a cam that retains VVT any longer. Still checking options and will report back. Thanks.

 

[Enoob]

Looks like I am going with the Gwatney L92 (to retain VVT) specs at 212/226 and .547 lift. Had to match up springs from BT beehive springs (up to .560 lift) as Gwatney was out.

Should I plug the pressure relief valve in the oil pan or replace it? If plugging, what is best?

 

[donjetman]

I put the relief valve shield/deflector, gm#12639759-$8,
on when I was in the pan doing the pickup o-ring.

 

[Foggy]

Looks like I am going with the Gwatney L92 (to retain VVT) specs at 212/226 and .547 lift. Had to match up springs from BT beehive springs (up to .560 lift) as Gwatney was out.

Should I plug the pressure relief valve in the oil pan or replace it? If plugging, what is best?

Please report back when you get the work all done. I used the VVT truck stage 1 cam from
gwatney as well... My base idle is pretty rough... i didn't really think a cam this small would
"sound" lumpy at all.. Maybe I did something wrong, so I'm curious about others' experiences with it

 

[Enoob]

Please report back when you get the work all done. I used the VVT truck stage 1 cam from
gwatney as well... My base idle is pretty rough... i didn't really think a cam this small would
"sound" lumpy at all.. Maybe I did something wrong, so I'm curious about others' experiences with it

Will do. Cam just arrived but I cannot get to it til next week. Looks like I have the same grind that you do. Springs are at the shop as the heads are being done.

I plan to do the Derale cooler as well. Did you mount under the front bumper and are you good with it?

 

[Foggy]

Will do. Cam just arrived but I cannot get to it til next week. Looks like I have the same grind that you do. Springs are at the shop as the heads are being done.

I plan to do the Derale cooler as well. Did you mount under the front bumper and are you good with it?

I did mount the derale cooler behind the bumper with the fan .. I just use a toggle switch
that I put at the center console to turn it on .. I really only need it when towing.. And
since i pulled the supercharger everything runs a little cooler anyway

 

[Enoob]

Is this looking like it should? Have cylinder 1 at TDC at this point. There is a little bit of slack in the chain.