What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Yeah that's the plan, lower the rear 2" to level it. On the cheap.

It'd be cheaper (about $25) to raise the front if all you really want is to be level. It'd make more sense being a 4WD that does boat launching duties. But, if you'd rather lower it and it'll still function to your liking, then rock on.

Oh- keep in mind that the rear hatch will be 2" lower when fully opened. That's my one annoyance about dropping mine. I had to learn to duck or tilt my head sideways when accessing the rear cargo area. I still forget at times, but am immediately reminded every time.
 

89Suburban

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Yeah I definitely want to lower it, not raise it. I hear that about the rear hatch, I'm 6'1 on bare feet. Miss my barn doors bad. I'm sick of climbing up into this all the time, so any changes at all will be on dropping it.

I parked in a spot at work that had a dip in it and went I went to get in it was SO nice to sit "down" into it for once. I'm gonna compare some measurements using that spot.


Any ideas where this oil is coming from? All over the starter area and leaking down. Hard to get good pics.



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89Suburban

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Also investigated this rear heater line patch job from the PO. Down by that green plastic thing I can feel through the hose where the hard line was cut.



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Rocket Man

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Yeah I definitely want to lower it, not raise it. I hear that about the rear hatch, I'm 6'1 on bare feet. Miss my barn doors bad. I'm sick of climbing up into this all the time, so any changes at all will be on dropping it.

I parked in a spot at work that had a dip in it and went I went to get in it was SO nice to sit "down" into it for once. I'm gonna compare some measurements using that spot.


Any ideas where this oil is coming from? All over the starter area and leaking down. Hard to get good pics.



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Maybe passenger side valve cover gasket. Might check the torque on the bolts first but be careful, they’re easy to over torque and snap. I forget the spec.
 

Sparksalot

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Rocket Man

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iamdub

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Any ideas where this oil is coming from? All over the starter area and leaking down. Hard to get good pics.



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It looks like it's been a slow leak for a long time. I'd say to clean it off and monitor for fresh oil. But, that pic showing it up high, behind the head and all over the top of the bell housing leads me to suspect VLOM or oil pressure sensor.

...Wasn't it you that found your VLOM bolts loose not long ago?
 

Rocket Man

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It looks like it's been a slow leak for a long time. I'd say to clean it off and monitor for fresh oil. But, that pic showing it up high, behind the head and all over the top of the bell housing leads me to suspect VLOM or oil pressure sensor.

...Wasn't it you that found your VLOM bolts loose not long ago?
Isn’t the oil pressure sensor on the driver side like the previous generation?
 

89Suburban

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Yes Vlom, OP sending unit and screen, valve cover gaskets all replaced. I'm wondering if it is a weep from the damn right/rear steam vent seal. Mixing with a lower oil leak on the way down.
 

iamdub

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Yes Vlom, OP sending unit and screen, valve cover gaskets all replaced. I'm wondering if it is a weep from the damn right/rear steam vent seal. Mixing with a lower oil leak on the way down.

That'd be the luck! Looks too grimy up there to be coolant. You'd have a nuisance coolant loss if it were that much. If it were such a tiny amount, it'd evaporate before it ran down enough to mix with oil.
 

the_tool_man

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Replacing rotors, pads and brake fluid this weekend. Opened the box for my brand new Motive pressure bleeder, only to discover the GM specific cap and hose were missing. After $30 in parts and two hours of driving/fiddling, it still won't hold pressure. The pump leaks internally. What a piece of junk. I guess I'm gonna teach my wife how to manually bleed brakes tomorrow. Meanwhile it looks like I parked in a bad neighborhood.

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Rocket Man

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Replacing rotors, pads and brake fluid this weekend. Opened the box for my brand new Motive pressure bleeder, only to discover the GM specific cap and hose were missing. After $30 in parts and two hours of driving/fiddling, it still won't hold pressure. The pump leaks internally. What a piece of junk. I guess I'm gonna teach my wife how to manually bleed brakes tomorrow. Meanwhile it looks like I parked in a bad neighborhood.

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Are you sure the pump is leaking and not the adapter you bought? Did you buy the Motive adapter or something else to make it work? The pump just has a rubber flap on the bottom to seal, I don’t see how it would fail unless it’s deformed. In fact, I think it would only leak fluid out the top since that’s submerged in the new brake fluid that you put in the bleeder. You did put fluid in it, correct? It fills the MC automatically.
 

the_tool_man

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Are you sure the pump is leaking and not the adapter you bought? Did you buy the Motive adapter or something else to make it work? The pump just has a rubber flap on the bottom to seal, I don’t see how it would fail unless it’s deformed. In fact, I think it would only leak fluid out the top since that’s submerged in the new brake fluid that you put in the bleeder. You did put fluid in it, correct? It fills the MC automatically.
The adapter is homemade from a Dorman reservoir cap, some rubber gasket material, brass fittings, epoxy and hose. I can understand the skepticism. But I bench tested my thread seals successfully. I've only pressurized it with air, so far. I didn't want it leaking brake fluid everywhere. By the time I get Motive on the phone after the holiday, I hope to already have this done. So it'll be a quick conversation about getting a refund.
 

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