2012 Denali Front & Rear Suspension

[Pointer 21]

Good Morning - I'm in pursuit of rebuilding the front suspension (and likely rear) on the following:

2012 GMC Yukon Denali AWD
VIN:1GKS2EEF0CR167640

I've gotten several bids and from what I gather the shops either want to put all new MOOG assembled parts OR another has proposed to replace just the ball joints, struts, and stablizer links to keep me with my oem equipment that doesn't appear to have issues in their opinion.

The vehicle has 157,000 miles on it and I'm thinking I'll order the parts and have all OEM parts installed. It's been a headache figuring out exactly what I need with accurate parts numbers.

I got this from @swathdiver :

I'm doing my best to get all the cross references correct as his build wasn't for a Denali.

Is this effort going to make much of a difference or am I overworking myself and should consider an easier route?

Also, any guidance on parts I can feel confident will fit my unit would be much appreciated.

As always thanks for all the support/guidance you gurus provide!!

 

[Geotrash]

I did this job in my driveway on our 2007 Yukon XL Denali at around 190K. If you're having a shop do the work then the only advantage I see to replacing the control arms instead of just the ball joints is that you'll get new control arm bushings, which also do wear out. Also, I only replaced the outer tie rod ends instead of the inners as well, as mine were still quite snug. In all, I replaced:

-Upper and lower control arms with ball joints included
-Outer tie rod ends
-Sway bar links and bushings
-Brake pads and rotors
-Had a shop perform an alignment afterwards

I did not replace:
-Springs
-Struts (the previous owner had already replaced the front struts and they looked great)
-Inner tie rods
-Wheel bearings (mine still rolled quietly and had no play)

Since then, I've put about 30K on it and the front end is still tight and the tires are wearing evenly. I used all Moog parts, by the way. They're excellent.

 

[Pointer 21]

I've been sitting on this for a while....my front end is TRASHED. I hear good things about MOOG but i've also heard really good things about not having pre assembled parts. I guess it comes down to the money. I'm not afraid to spend a little extra to get it perfect, so long as its reasonable. I am however getting exahusted with matching the parts and ensuring I'm on the right path...

EDIT: The steelership provided me with the attached parts info to coordinate with what I had proposed reposted as follows:

Any guidance on the correct parts to identify to likely purchase through Rock Auto? Gets a little hairy.
Any and all advice is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.

Thanks!

 

[swathdiver]

I've been sitting on this for a while....my front end is TRASHED. I hear good things about MOOG but i've also heard really good things about not having pre assembled parts. I guess it comes down to the money. I'm not afraid to spend a little extra to get it perfect, so long as its reasonable. I am however getting exahusted with matching the parts and ensuring I'm on the right path...

EDIT: The steelership provided me with the attached parts info to coordinate with what I had proposed reposted as follows:

View attachment 369263

Any guidance on the correct parts to identify to likely purchase through Rock Auto? Gets a little hairy.
Any and all advice is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.

Thanks!

Can you provide me with your 6XX and 7XX codes from your RPO sheet? I'll try to take a crack at this later if my eyes cooperate.

 

[Pointer 21]

Can you provide me with your 6XX and 7XX codes from your RPO sheet? I'll try to take a crack at this later if my eyes cooperate.

Here's the dash service parts identifier. Is this what you need and/or do you need additional info? Thank you VERY MUCH @swathdiver

 

[swathdiver]

Here's the dash service parts identifier. Is this what you need and/or do you need additional info? Thank you VERY MUCH @swathdiver

Perfect!

 

[Pointer 21]

Thanks again - These parts sales guys are not helpful! I'm determined to get this right, I'd think I would've caused more damage by driving it like this but then again I haven't been driving a lot, so maybe not.

 

[swathdiver]

Ok, this is what I've come up with. All parts were first checked over at ACDelco's website using your VIN and RPO Shock Codes, Then I triple checked with GMPartsGiant, GMPartsDirect and the supplied PDFs, again using your VIN only.

For the rear springs, the combination numbers listed are for ACDelco. GM OE is 25783732 and probably discontinued.

Where conflicts exist, I'm inclined to defer with ACDelco's website but you have to decide for yourself on that.

Are your upper controls cast iron or stamped steel? If stamped, then a different part number will be required.

 

[Pointer 21]

@swathdiver - Apologies on the late reply. This vehicle was broken into over the weekend and....they got me good (possessions but no damage to the vehicle).

THANK YOU very much for putting this together. I did a similar search and came up with variables that were slightly inconclusive (discontinued parts and not much help from the parts guys at the local dealership). It appears that rock auto (assuming I entered 75% of the right part numbers is MUCH cheaper than the AC delco/GM parts giant/etc).

I'll be ordering soon and hoping I don't mess it up.

Also, I believe my uppers are forged? It's an AWD and a magnet will stick to them......

 

[swathdiver]

@swathdiver - Apologies on the late reply. This vehicle was broken into over the weekend and....they got me good (possessions but no damage to the vehicle).

THANK YOU very much for putting this together. I did a similar search and came up with variables that were slightly inconclusive (discontinued parts and not much help from the parts guys at the local dealership). It appears that rock auto (assuming I entered 75% of the right part numbers is MUCH cheaper than the AC delco/GM parts giant/etc).

I'll be ordering soon and hoping I don't mess it up.

Also, I believe my uppers are forged? It's an AWD and a magnet will stick to them......

You're welcome and sorry to hear about the truck being broken into.

While I have purchased from GMPartsDirect and GMPartsGiant, their shipping costs usually price them out of the game but they are a great resource for looking up parts.

It is my own intention to defer to RockAuto over Amazon, the latter does not give out cool car magnets! Scrutinize your orders, RA has left out parts from larger orders before but they are good about making things right.

 

[Millennium Falcon]

I just had the bulk of the front end of my '09 rebuilt using a collection of Delco, Moog, Napa, and Timken parts. I've been sitting on these parts for a while trying to find time to do it, and ultimately, I just paid a shop to get it done. I got myself bent over a barrel to the tune of $1400 for the job. The biggest issue with doing it myself (aside from time) was that I live 30 miles from the nearest alignment shop, and I didn't want to drive that far on a maybe close eyeball alignment in my driveway.

I sourced the parts from Amazon, Napa, and RockAuto. I used Moog for the control arms because I wanted to be able to grease the joints. I used Timken hub assemblies because I've had good luck with them. Everything else I based on reviews.

The guy I use as my mechanic for the things for which I don't have the tools suggested I should have bought a new rack and pinion unit with the inner tie rods/bellows already installed. I didn't think about that, and with 200k miles, it was a good suggestion.

 

[Pointer 21]

@swathdiver I'm actually doing this same exercise on a older polaris I am working on...In other words it gets FRUSTRATING getting these parts in and THE RIGHT PARTS.
The shipping is what made the orders costly from other sources aside from RA.

On the uppers are we going with forged? I believe the mechanic said "the magnet" was the way to tell?? Any input there?

 

[Pointer 21]

I just had the bulk of the front end of my '09 rebuilt using a collection of Delco, Moog, Napa, and Timken parts. I've been sitting on these parts for a while trying to find time to do it, and ultimately, I just paid a shop to get it done. I got myself bent over a barrel to the tune of $1400 for the job. The biggest issue with doing it myself (aside from time) was that I live 30 miles from the nearest alignment shop, and I didn't want to drive that far on a maybe close eyeball alignment in my driveway.

I sourced the parts from Amazon, Napa, and RockAuto. I used Moog for the control arms because I wanted to be able to grease the joints. I used Timken hub assemblies because I've had good luck with them. Everything else I based on reviews.

The guy I use as my mechanic for the things for which I don't have the tools suggested I should have bought a new rack and pinion unit with the inner tie rods/bellows already installed. I didn't think about that, and with 200k miles, it was a good suggestion.

I hear you - There are mixed reviews/feeling on assembled parts. I could've done this a longgg time ago and been out pain free.

I'll let the gurus advise to this point; however, with this board as a resource it's more assuring. I owe @swathdiver and a few others gift cards and personal handshake for the advice through these projects where these mechanics are trying to get over on you (happens way too much).

 

[Doubeleive]

unless you live in the rust belt you don't need 1/2 of that stuff, nuts and bolts and several other parts can be re used.
rear control arms probably do not need to be replaced unless you can see the bushings wiped out otherwise they are very stout, same with the panhard, even the springs are questionable to be replaced front or rear. I would stick with the guts of the system. shocks front/rear, air compressor (if operation is questionable), upper lower controls (front)
front struts can be rebuilt using all the original parts except the shock it's self, again inspect the old parts first if they are not cracked or show other signs of distress then they are fine. Steering parts do wear out so those can/should be replaced.

 

[Pointer 21]

unless you live in the rust belt you don't need 1/2 of that stuff, nuts and bolts and several other parts can be re used.
rear control arms probably do not need to be replaced unless you can see the bushings wiped out otherwise they are very stout, same with the panhard, even the springs are questionable to be replaced front or rear. I would stick with the guts of the system. shocks front/rear, air compressor (if operation is questionable), upper lower controls (front)
front struts can be rebuilt using all the original parts except the shock it's self, again inspect the old parts first if they are not cracked or show other signs of distress then they are fine. Steering parts do wear out so those can/should be replaced.

I live close to the coast (about an hour from Galveston).

Mechanic A: "All I needed was":

Ball joints: $961.96 (INSTALLED MOOG)
Front Stabilizer Links: $177.93 (Installed Moog)
Front Struts: $1,407.84 (I think OEM)
Shocks REAR: $1,295.45 (I think OEM)

Total = $3,843.17

Mechanic B:

ALL MOOG ASSEMBLED- Upper and Lower Control Arms = $1250.00
Front Struts: Originally quoted Dorman at $850.00 (SAID I WANTED OEM AND HE SAID SAME PRICE) **SOUNDS FISHY**

FRONT END TOTAL = $2100.00

Mechanic C:

An Actual Referral that hasn't scene the vehicle but knows I'm particular)

I supply parts:

Front end:
Struts = 1.6 hrs = $148.80
Lower Ball Joints = 4.2 hrs = $390.60

I'm inclined to get the parts and let Mechanic C do everything knowing what is going on the vehicle and that he is at $93.00/hr. which I would think would be the cheapest but still running numbers.....

 

[swathdiver]

On the uppers are we going with forged? I believe the mechanic said "the magnet" was the way to tell?? Any input there?

They listed welded uppers and forged. If you don't see weld marks near the bushings, use the forged ones. I do not know if they are both compatible with the same or use different knuckles, otherwise I would prefer forged. Unless we're jumping berms or running through the Baja Peninsula at 60 mph, does it really even matter? LOL

 

[swathdiver]

I live close to the coast (about an hour from Galveston).

Mechanic A: "All I needed was":

Ball joints: $961.96 (INSTALLED MOOG)
Front Stabilizer Links: $177.93 (Installed Moog)
Front Struts: $1,407.84 (I think OEM)
Shocks REAR: $1,295.45 (I think OEM)

Total = $3,843.17

Mechanic B:

ALL MOOG ASSEMBLED- Upper and Lower Control Arms = $1250.00
Front Struts: Originally quoted Dorman at $850.00 (SAID I WANTED OEM AND HE SAID SAME PRICE) **SOUNDS FISHY**

FRONT END TOTAL = $2100.00

Mechanic C:

An Actual Referral that hasn't scene the vehicle but knows I'm particular)

I supply parts:

Front end:
Struts = 1.6 hrs = $148.80
Lower Ball Joints = 4.2 hrs = $390.60

I'm inclined to get the parts and let Mechanic C do everything knowing what is going on the vehicle and that he is at $93.00/hr. which I would think would be the cheapest but still running numbers.....

The trouble I would have is which Moog parts? Which "OE"? Moog has the better CK line and the economy, I'm going to sell it tomorrow, RK line and along the same lines, there is GM Original Equipment, ACDelco Professional/Gold (sometimes same as OE) and then there is ACDelco Silver. All different levels of quality and pricing and unless specified, which do you think a shop would use to maximize its profits?

 

[Pointer 21]

The trouble I would have is which Moog parts? Which "OE"? Moog has the better CK line and the economy, I'm going to sell it tomorrow, RK line and along the same lines, there is GM Original Equipment, ACDelco Professional/Gold (sometimes same as OE) and then there is ACDelco Silver. All different levels of quality and pricing and unless specified, which do you think a shop would use to maximize its profits?

I had a mechanic a few months back cuss me for asking which MOOG parts he was putting on.....Guess I'm a control freak and/or have trust issues because I don't believe them at all.

That said - I do think I found the right guy in Mechanic C (referenced above) that will let me supply the parts and has been verified as an honest person.

Just need to get the parts in!!!

 

[Pointer 21]

Considering I have OEM 22 inch rims that were an upgrade item when I built the vehicle, should I upgrade any parts to compensate for the rims?

 

[swathdiver]

Considering I have OEM 22 inch rims that were an upgrade item when I built the vehicle, should I upgrade any parts to compensate for the rims?

I wouldn't know.