pwtr02ss
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Exactly what I had in mind
2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
- Thread starter Dantheman1540
- Start date
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Dantheman1540
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Oh man I genuinely didn’t expect this much of a power difference, with the old heads it was difficult to break the tires loose once rolling even in the rain. Now, in second gear at 45mph it will blitz the tires and start slinging sideways like it’s a drift truck. It starts to pull so hard above 6k it’s pretty savage I’m in love again. I actually re-raced a RCSB V6 non turbo f150 that I raced in the past and won with a decent gap. This time it was Yukon XL lengths on him and he had no hope to hold even from a dig or a roll.
The tune is definitely not even close to being finished and I think it wants a good bit more timing in the mid range, I’m hoping I can tune some mpg back into it because it’s been getting 11.5-12 so far. But the crazy rich idle and idle swings must play a big part in that.
pwtr02ss
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I'm pumped to hear that! I'm was worried that it wasn't going to be worth the hassle. Gives me hope for when I finally get off my lazy ass and mess with mine. I'd love to find some more power because mines just a few clicks above stock lol
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Dantheman1540
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I wasn’t so sure if even feel the difference with the heads but it’s night and day. You need to tune your shit! If your AC is working and it drives like it should, it will be cake to tune all you have to do is play with fueling and spark non of the frustrating stuff.
iamdub
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I can't hide that in my butt.
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Dantheman1540
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Barrel is only 3.1” long, must be the girth your concerned about.
pwtr02ss
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It runs and drives fine. Just has the weird "whoooosh" at start up we're it takes a deep breath, exhales and then comes back to normal idle. It also hangs the throttle if I rev it after it's warm. Oh, and has a dead spot in the powerband from like 1800-23/2500 ish. Lol
I can attest to him consuming at least 3.1". Girth, that's a whole other conversation. Although, I do recall a "jar" incident that I found quite intriguing
iamdub
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Long and thin slides right on in. Short and thick makes it rip.
iamdub
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So, all around your cruising RPM range?
I totally would've guessed 3.768" at a minimum.
pwtr02ss
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Yea, pretty much...So, all around your cruising RPM range?
I totally would've guessed 3.768" at a minimum.
Next round, we'll break out the precision instruments to verify. I know how the multiple decimal places get you going.
I will need you to break out those fancy new croc replacements though
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Dantheman1540
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Words to live by.
Yea, pretty much...
Next round, we'll break out the precision instruments to verify. I know how the multiple decimal places get you going.
I will need you to break out those fancy new crock replacements though
I couldn't sleep all night knowing your gonna cruise to work in a truck whos potential has not been tuned or unleashed.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
If I only use 10-15% the throttle, I don't even notice. Thats how I've been justifying it anyway.
I did get that fancy wideband you recommended a while back though. It looks nice in the box
I keep finding excuses to not mess with it. I'm honestly afraid I'll **** it up. I feel I know about 10% of what I need to know and I have a hard time getting passed that mental hurdle. I've been trying to avoid talking about it a whole lot because I know you effers are tired of hearing it and I need to get off my lazy ass and either screw it up or fix it I suppose. I did decide to just run the wideband off the rear o2 bung, post cat. Keeps me happy by not adding a hole to the exhaust that I won't need for very long. I honestly wish you you were closer so I could sit down and go over a few my procedure before I do it. I have no problem learning everything else Ive done, but tuning seems to be that one thing. Sucks :sadface:
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Dantheman1540
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If I only use 10-15% the throttle, I don't even notice. Thats how I've been justifying it anyway.
I did get that fancy wideband you recommended a while back though. It looks nice in the box
I keep finding excuses to not mess with it. I'm honestly afraid I'll **** it up. I feel I know about 10% of what I need to know and I have a hard time getting passed that mental hurdle. I've been trying to avoid talking about it a whole lot because I know you effers are tired of hearing it and I need to get off my lazy ass and either screw it up or fix it I suppose. I did decide to just run the wideband off the rear o2 bung, post cat. Keeps me happy by not adding a hole to the exhaust that I won't need for very long. I honestly wish you you were closer so I could sit down and go over a few my procedure before I do it. I have no problem learning everything else Ive done, but tuning seems to be that one thing. Sucks :sadface:
You literally only need to touch VE and MAF tuning which is essentially a copy and paste procedure as long as the histograms are setup correctly. Might want to add a touch of air to the Base Idle Airflow table but if its already idling fine I don't think I'd touch it. Then if you really wanted to you could sprinkle a tad bit of timing on the high octane table but its probably not worth it if you only do 10-15% throttle. BTW you really need to bump that percentage up!
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Dantheman1540
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Something that just seems so weird to me is how the VE table is not very linear or smooth, its like there's a huge wall coming off idle where the fueling jumps up and then it almost wants less fuel before wanting more fuel again. No matter how many adjustments I make it still wants significantly less fuel at idle then at one more column ahead. The truck is running great but it seems weird to me to have such a huge jump.
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swathdiver
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That is the most obscene arrow indicator I've ever seen!
LOL
pwtr02ss
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I was being funny with the 10-15% throttle. You can't notice the dead spot if you never get out of it :taps head:
The plan was to start with dialing in the MAF. Then follow step 2 on the GRG videos and do speed density. I believe I made it to step 3 in the series but I can't recall what that was. So I'm on the right track, no?
WTF does the wide band come in to play? VE table? Also, remember, I have the virtual VE table but it seems pretty much the same as gen 3.
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Dantheman1540
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I aim to pleaseThat is the most obscene arrow indicator I've ever seen!
Step 3 is either spark tuning or enable both the MAP and MAF and give it a test then do spark.
The wideband is what you use to figure out how much correction is needed to the MAF and VE table. Basically if the maf is saying it needs 60 fuel to achieve 14.7afr but then Wideband is showing that at 60fuel the AFR is 13.23 Then its going to show you that at 60 in that cell its 10% too rich so you need to remove 10% fuel from 60 meaning drop the cell to 54. It sounds way more complicated than it is, you legit just take this histogram that you should have set up and copy the entire chart then paste it multiplied by percent over the appropriate table. Then you just need to make sure theres no crazy spikes from outliar data. For example, if a cell shows it suddenly needs 30% more fuel than all the cells around it then its probably not accurate data since the engine is gonna want a smooth table.
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pwtr02ss
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Totally following you now. In the video, it wasn't really mentioned that he was losing the x or y axis as the wideband input, or maybe I just missed it. Thank you for explaining that.I aim to please
Step 3 is either spark tuning or enable both the MAP and MAF and give it a test then do spark.
The wideband is what you use to figure out how much correction is needed to the MAF and VE table. Basically if the maf is saying it needs 60 fuel to achieve 14.7afr but then Wideband is showing that at 60fuel the AFR is 13.23 Then its going to show you that at 60 in that cell its 10% too rich so you need to remove 10% fuel from 60 meaning drop the cell to 54. It sounds way more complicated than it is, you legit just take this histogram that you should have set up and copy the entire chart then paste it multiplied by percent over the appropriate table. Then you just need to make sure theres no crazy spikes from outliar data. For example, if a cell shows it suddenly needs 30% more fuel than all the cells around it then its probably not accurate data since the engine is gonna want a smooth table.
I'm familiar with the copy and paste and multiply by half. The process he is using seems like it takes a really long time. So part of my fear that I'm overthinking everything.
example: The dude did the tune on @iamdub tahoe in an hour or so. Its done. Does great. The dude tuned my camaro in about an hour. Its not perfect but its good enough (has surging issues after start up and things with ac too). After watching the GRG videos, it seems like it should take hours to do what these guys are doing in one. Am I misunderstanding the process and the time it takes? Do they have a better understanding of what it will take and are juts faster and cut out steps?
Spark, yes. I need to watch that video. My stock spark table is completely different looking than Chris's. I have a TON of timing where he's at like 24 or something.
EDIT: After talking with @Dantheman1540 I'm a dumbass and was looking at the wrong part of the graph. My shit is way low on timing, lol
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Dantheman1540
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Its very possible to tune something in an hour if you have everything setup correctly in the scanner and there are no weird issues. For your basic build one correction of the MAF and one of the VE table should be all that is needed since its not a radical build. GRG really likes to perfect every tiny thing which is great but will it make a noticeable difference? Probably not. I like to mess with every little thing like he does, mostly because I'm trying to get a better understanding of some of the options in the system that nobody seems to share info about. Plus I change stuff on my truck weekly it seems lol.
Your Camaro probably needs a cold start Russ K method Base Idle airflow log done. Very simple process once you have the scanner setup but it must be done when the engine is as cold as possible and you have to let it warm up to full temp with NO accessories on, not even E fans.
