2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Spark is best tuned on a dyno so you can see the power change and know if you put too much or too little. There are other reasons to tune spark like @randeez was adding some in the lower/middle part of his table trying to lite the turbo sooner. I noticed with the new heads it makes so much more airflow that at WOT its operating in the spark table cells with less than 12* in the middle of the pulls. Obviously that's not much when at WOT its taking 24* so I'm slowly adding some until I see KR then ill pull back a few *.
 

pwtr02ss

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Its very possible to tune something in an hour if you have everything setup correctly in the scanner and there are no weird issues. For your basic build one correction of the MAF and one of the VE table should be all that is needed since its not a radical build. GRG really likes to perfect every tiny thing which is great but will it make a noticeable difference? Probably not. I like to mess with every little thing like he does, mostly because I'm trying to get a better understanding of some of the options in the system that nobody seems to share info about. Plus I change stuff on my truck weekly it seems lol.

Your Camaro probably needs a cold start Russ K method Base Idle airflow log done. Very simple process once you have the scanner setup but it must be done when the engine is as cold as possible and you have to let it warm up to full temp with NO accessories on, not even E fans.

Spark is best tuned on a dyno so you can see the power change and know if you put too much or too little. There are other reasons to tune spark like @randeez was adding some in the lower/middle part of his table trying to lite the turbo sooner. I noticed with the new heads it makes so much more airflow that at WOT its operating in the spark table cells with less than 12* in the middle of the pulls. Obviously that's not much when at WOT its taking 24* so I'm slowly adding some until I see KR then ill pull back a few *.
Thanks for taking the time dan.

Also, you're welcome for what I sent in return. I think @iamdub will like the new measuring instrument....:angels2:
 
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Dantheman1540

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Ok real talk, who’s redone seats before? I’m going to a U-pull yard tomorrow looking for a driver seat with manual lumbar support. They sell seats for $25 so idc what condition it’s in but I’d prefer all manual controls. Then I’d like to refoam it, add a seat/back heater, and do tan leather. If I can accomplish the driver seat and I like it then I’ll do the passenger.

Also gonna look for a GMT900 jump seat/console.
 

Tonyrodz

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Ok real talk, who’s redone seats before? I’m going to a U-pull yard tomorrow looking for a driver seat with manual lumbar support. They sell seats for $25 so idc what condition it’s in but I’d prefer all manual controls. Then I’d like to refoam it, add a seat/back heater, and do tan leather. If I can accomplish the driver seat and I like it then I’ll do the passenger.

Also gonna look for a GMT900 jump seat/console.
I haven't done a complete seat, but the lower seat cover is held on with metal hog rings. It's pretty easy to do, but I've heard the upper cover is a pita because of the built in seat belt.
 

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Totally following you now. In the video, it wasn't really mentioned that he was losing the x or y axis as the wideband input, or maybe I just missed it. Thank you for explaining that.

I'm familiar with the copy and paste and multiply by half. The process he is using seems like it takes a really long time. So part of my fear that I'm overthinking everything.

example: The dude did the tune on @iamdub tahoe in an hour or so. Its done. Does great. The dude tuned my camaro in about an hour. Its not perfect but its good enough (has surging issues after start up and things with ac too). After watching the GRG videos, it seems like it should take hours to do what these guys are doing in one. Am I misunderstanding the process and the time it takes? Do they have a better understanding of what it will take and are juts faster and cut out steps?

Spark, yes. I need to watch that video. My stock spark table is completely different looking than Chris's. I have a TON of timing where he's at like 24 or something.


EDIT: After talking with @Dantheman1540 I'm a dumbass and was looking at the wrong part of the graph. My shit is way low on timing, lol

I second what Dan replied to this with:

Its very possible to tune something in an hour if you have everything setup correctly in the scanner and there are no weird issues. For your basic build one correction of the MAF and one of the VE table should be all that is needed since its not a radical build. GRG really likes to perfect every tiny thing which is great but will it make a noticeable difference? Probably not.

It's a mild cam so it didn't need a ton of tweaking. Like yours, it drove pretty well. I drove it over an hour to get to him. The more radical the cam or mods, especially boost, the more tuning and time will be needed.

We made an initial pull, he tweaked it and it was a night and day difference like he nailed it right off the bat. Obviously, his experience helps to speed things along. He kept tweaking it, advancing the timing, etc. and stopped when it didn't pull any more. I'm sure there's room for some improvement. But, I'm not expecting any massive gains, if even noticeable.


I like to mess with every little thing like he does, mostly because I'm trying to get a better understanding ...

This. I would like to learn this stuff so I could do the GRG thing and super-fine-tune it just to get experience without adversely affecting it.
 
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Dantheman1540

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I haven't done a complete seat, but the lower seat cover is held on with metal hog rings. It's pretty easy to do, but I've heard the upper cover is a pita because of the built in seat belt.

Didn’t think about the seat belt, man that would really suck but I guess I’ll try my best!

I would like to learn this stuff so I could do the GRG thing and super-fine-tune it just to get experience without adversely affecting it.

No way to learn it without messing with stuff, just save that base line so when you make stuff worse you can revert and drive to work lol.
 

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Ok real talk, who’s redone seats before? I’m going to a U-pull yard tomorrow looking for a driver seat with manual lumbar support. They sell seats for $25 so idc what condition it’s in but I’d prefer all manual controls. Then I’d like to refoam it, add a seat/back heater, and do tan leather. If I can accomplish the driver seat and I like it then I’ll do the passenger.

Also gonna look for a GMT900 jump seat/console.
I've not done one in a full size but have done upper and lower in an fbody. It's really straight forward. No hog ring clips that I'm aware of. Just make sure the cover is nice and warm so it'll stretch over the cushion easier. They just clip in the frame with plastic clips. In fact, the front lower clip wasn't even fastened on my Yukon when it was brand new. Theseatshop.com has some great videos and from what I hear, their covers and foam are very nice too. Also, from watching bitchin rides, I see them spray silicone spray on the foam sometimes to help with the cover sliding on. I've not done that as I did t really have any issues when I did the two on the fbody. One trans-am and one Camaro

Edit: apparently there are hog ring clips on these based on Tony's reply. I'm sticking with it not being too bad though.

Edit #2: For clarity, I did not watch any of these recently. I looked into about 4 years ago to replace my buddy Casey's. He never ordered the shit so we never did it.

 
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Dantheman1540

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I've not done one in a full size but have done upper and lower in an fbody. It's really straight forward. No hog ring clips that I'm aware of. Just make sure the cover is nice and warm so it'll stretch over the cushion easier. They just clip in the frame with plastic clips. In fact, the front lower clip wasn't even fastened on my Yukon when it was brand new. Theseatshop.com has some great videos and from what I hear, their covers and foam are very nice too. Also, from watching bitchin rides, I see them spray silicone spray on the foam sometimes to help with the cover sliding on. I've not done that as I did t really have any issues when I did the two on the fbody. One trans-am and one Camaro

Edit: apparently there are hog ring clips on these based on Tony's reply. I'm sticking with it not being too bad though.

Edit #2: For clarity, I did not watch any of these recently. I looked into about 4 years ago to replace my buddy Casey's. He never ordered the shit so we never did it.

Good info! I’m excited about it, should be a semi budget project with good results. Been driving a different truck at work lately an early 2000s super doody and it has really nice leather lariat seats that are firm with good lumbar adjustment. When I switch back to the Tahoe I feel like I fall into the seat lol. I wouldn’t be surprised if I had many springs broken in the Tahoe it has 280k on these seats.
 

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I used the lower leather and the pad from the seat shop in my NBS. It was an easy swap and well worth it. The end result sat me higher in the truck but I dealt with it. I’m 6’4” and my head is not far from the roof.
 
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Dantheman1540

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Make sure you wear gloves. The metal frame is extremely sharp.

I would not have guessed that, apparently Hummer H2 seats bolt right in I might find a set of those seems like they can be found for $750-$850 in good shape. That’s for fronts and rears. Also looking at doing a GMT900 or newer center console/flip down split bench dude.

I used the lower leather and the pad from the seat shop in my NBS. It was an easy swap and well worth it. The end result sat me higher in the truck but I dealt with it. I’m 6’4” and my head is not far from the roof.

Wow surprised it’s that tall, mine is crazy low like im sitting in a bucket not on a bucket if you know what I mean lol.
 
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Finally got my Amazon TPMS sensors installed yesterday and spent the last half hour messing with the $12 amazon reset tool. Looks like the tool is telling me all the sensors have low batteries and won’t connect. Kinda hard to know for sure but the green transmit light flashed and then the low battery light will flash and the truck doesn’t honk acknowledging that the sensors are connected. I may have wasted an hour yesterday putting the valve stems in grrrrrr.

Gonna hit discount tire and see if they can activate them before I give up and just let them **** me for $300in sensors.
 

Tonyrodz

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I would not have guessed that, apparently Hummer H2 seats bolt right in I might find a set of those seems like they can be found for $750-$850 in good shape. That’s for fronts and rears. Also looking at doing a GMT900 or newer center console/flip down split bench
If you look really close, those Hummers are based on the Tahoe/Suburban platform. A lot of the interior will bolt in. Seats--no doubt.
 

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Finally got my Amazon TPMS sensors installed yesterday and spent the last half hour messing with the $12 amazon reset tool. Looks like the tool is telling me all the sensors have low batteries and won’t connect. Kinda hard to know for sure but the green transmit light flashed and then the low battery light will flash and the truck doesn’t honk acknowledging that the sensors are connected. I may have wasted an hour yesterday putting the valve stems in grrrrrr.

Gonna hit discount tire and see if they can activate them before I give up and just let them **** me for $300in sensors.

i used some cheap-os on the 35x22s and they worked great, set them with cheap amazon tool also. i think they were like 50bux only because i wanted metal stems
 
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Dantheman1540

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If you look really close, those Hummers are based on the Tahoe/Suburban platform. A lot of the interior will bolt in. Seats--no doubt.
The H2 seats look great too!
i used some cheap-os on the 35x22s and they worked great, set them with cheap amazon tool also. i think they were like 50bux only because i wanted metal stems
I might be doing something wrong so I’ll just let discount tire try, they will attempt for free lol.
 

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