What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[iamdub]

I guess I should do some stall converter research, but I just know I'm getting close to the top of the budget, and I'm sure other things are gonna come up when I start pulling the engine. I should probably buy motor mounts while it's out, lol

Right. This is why I say to determine your end goal with this particular engine and/or entire vehicle and stick to it. Else, factor in mid-game changes into your budget. Get new mounts for sure. They can be bolted to the block before you drop it in.

Definitely research that cam and stall recommendations. Just cuz people say a cam doesn't need a stall, doesn't mean it shouldn't have one. Vehicle weight, tire size, gear ratios, stall, engine's power band... it's all a system that has to efficiently work together.

 

[MassHoe04]

Found a safe home to keep my Tech 2 scanner in...

I ordered my Tech 2 scanner without the hard case option (order processed before I even knew there was an option with a case). I was all set to get foam-lined hard case from Harbor Freight. Then I spotted something kicking around my basement instead.

I had been given a brand-new Coleman Xpand 30 can backpack cooler from work a few months ago. It was a perfect fit for my Tech 2!

I always felt that the one thing that kills connectors on electronics is constant plugging and unplugging. The whole thing fit inside and there was room enough to leave the main data cable securely attached (with the thumb screws) to the device all the time. The cable tucks on nice and there is more than enough room to leave the CANDI device on there too. Pouches on front and sides can be used for OBDII attachment, documentation, etc.

It is a great grab-n-go size, has shoulder straps and a grab handle. The shell provides decent protection and the inside is padded. I think this works better for me than a bulky hard case.

They are about $39 at Walmart, if anyone is interested.

 

[Jimmyy]

Plus it will keep your beer cold when your working on your ride. Bonus.

 

[Plato442]

Getting ready to add an esky 3rd brake light assembly to the Denali

 

[Tonyrodz]

Had to jump the battery today, which was strange. It only sat for 4 days. Battery is maybe 2 years old.

 

[Walchit]

Today's scope creep includes a couple marks on the pistons that I found while cleaning, and the contemplation of 5.7 pistons...
I really just need to get a couple used pistons, probably

 

[iamdub]

Today's scope creep includes a couple marks on the pistons that I found while cleaning, and the contemplation of 5.7 pistons...
I really just need to get a couple used pistons, probably

Summit has a good price on their forged 5.7 piston sets. It ain't my money!

 

[Walchit]

I was looking at those. Lol. Also thought about 4.8 pistons, but I would prefer to stay on 87 octane gas, it's expensive enough.
#1 almost looks like a crack, but it could just be a scratch I suppose.
#4 has this pit, which I don't know what would have caused it.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I was looking at those. Lol. Also thought about 4.8 pistons, but I would prefer to stay on 87 octane gas, it's expensive enough.
#1 almost looks like a crack, but it could just be a scratch I suppose.
#4 has this pit, which I don't know what would have caused it.

Could've been detonation or maybe a factory defect. I had some similar pits in a cylinder wall on my GN, it was from detonation.

 

[clandr1]

Got home tonight from a 900 mile, 6 day trip to the Branson, MO area. Hit 238,000 on the way home! It snowed while we were there, but overall the weather was great.

 

[mwilson62000]

I also took about a 900 mi. trip (last week) to Gatlinburg, TN. Snowed the last night we were there.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Got this code yesterday. Cleared it and it hasn't come back yet. Now I wonder if it is the battery slowly giving up the ghost.

 

[MassHoe04]

Got this code yesterday. Cleared it and it hasn't come back yet. Now I wonder if it is the battery slowly giving up the ghost. View attachment 365715

Wouldn't hurt to also inspect the wiring and the connector at the TPS. Try the old unplug, spray down with electrical contact cleaner, plug back in trick.
Maybe, repeat that process a couple of times to ensure the contacts and connectors are "scrubbed" clean by working them on and off and hosing out crud with the spray... Could be road-salt corrosion or road grime in the pin connectors interfering with just enough current to throw a code.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Wouldn't hurt to also inspect the wiring and the connector at the TPS. Try the old unplug, spray down with electrical contact cleaner, plug back in trick.
Maybe, repeat that process a couple of times to ensure the contacts and connectors are "scrubbed" clean by working them on and off and hosing out crud with the spray... Could be road-salt corrosion or road grime in the pin connectors interfering with just enough current to throw a code.

This code goes along with that evap code, and another code I've never gotten before either. I replaced that tps connector and a length of the pigtail a few years ago. They're known to get breaks in the copper inside the insulation--which could cause the "Reduced Engine Power" cel.

 

[Sam Harris]

I need help.. I spoke with Performabuilt regarding my transmission upgrade.. I’ll be ordering the level 3, and a 2800 stall TC.. that part was easy..

Next, I want a cam and heads. I’d also like to do the intake, and already have the NNBS intake in storage.

I want a fairly good chop in the cam, so expect that’s pretty easy to accomplish with the correct lsa around 112 or so, but I also want the best low end torque I can get with the stock 5.3. Not necessarily the best top end.

Looking at the TSP PRC head and cam packages, I think this would be a good way to go, and take some of the guesswork out of it. However, even looking at the packages, there are a lot of options..

stainless valves / hollow stem valves / inconel.?

Chamber size? 68cc is standard and I expect I want to stick with this, to avoid and milling, rather than sending brand new heads off to the machine shop.

Pushrod length: defaults to 7.475 I’m assuming that’s factory length. No idea if I’d need a different size until cam is in and heads are on.

Cam: looking at Stage 3 truck 216/220, .600”/.600” (112 lsa)

Timing chain: I think this is wise to replace, but I have no idea what to go with for the replacement. Lot of options..

Oil pump: I think this is also wise to replace, and don’t think there’s any need for higher pressure, but higher volume may be desirable.. so thinking the Melling HV pump.

Rocker arm trunnion upgrade: I definitely want to upgrade these but TSP kits are back ordered..

Any advice is very much appreciated

I also need to determine what is involved and part list what I need to swap the existing intake, for the NNBS intake. Money is less of an object at the moment, than time.

ETA: Any other supporting mods that I haven't listed here will certainly be appreciated, and entertained..

 

[blueinkd]

I need help.. I spoke with Performabuilt regarding my transmission upgrade.. I’ll be ordering the level 3, and a 2800 stall TC.. that part was easy..

Next, I want a cam and heads. I’d also like to do the intake, and already have the NNBS intake in storage.

I want a fairly good chop in the cam, so expect that’s pretty easy to accomplish with the correct lsa around 112 or so, but I also want the best low end torque I can get with the stock 5.3. Not necessarily the best top end.

Looking at the TSP PRC head and cam packages, I think this would be a good way to go, and take some of the guesswork out of it. However, even looking at the packages, there are a lot of options..

stainless valves / hollow stem valves / inconel.?

Chamber size? 68cc is standard and I expect I want to stick with this, to avoid and milling, rather than sending brand new heads off to the machine shop.

Pushrod length: defaults to 7.475 I’m assuming that’s factory length. No idea if I’d need a different size until cam is in and heads are on.

Cam: looking at Stage 3 truck 216/220, .600”/.600” (112 lsa)

Timing chain: I think this is wise to replace, but I have no idea what to go with for the replacement. Lot of options..

Oil pump: I think this is also wise to replace, and don’t think there’s any need for higher pressure, but higher volume may be desirable.. so thinking the Melling HV pump.

Rocker arm trunnion upgrade: I definitely want to upgrade these but TSP kits are back ordered..

Any advice is very much appreciated

I also need to determine what is involved and part list what I need to swap the existing intake, for the NNBS intake. Money is less of an object at the moment, than time.

ETA: Any other supporting mods that I haven't listed here will certainly be appreciated, and entertained..

Oh man. Nice little project. Get closer to Houston so I can look at this thing!! I been meaning to ask you about the transmission cooler you added. I want to so the same to mine as I have noticed during cooler Temps the minor 1-2 jerk has not been present. I want to add the cooler before texas heat rolls back in.

 

[Rocket Man]

I need help.. I spoke with Performabuilt regarding my transmission upgrade.. I’ll be ordering the level 3, and a 2800 stall TC.. that part was easy..

Next, I want a cam and heads. I’d also like to do the intake, and already have the NNBS intake in storage.

I want a fairly good chop in the cam, so expect that’s pretty easy to accomplish with the correct lsa around 112 or so, but I also want the best low end torque I can get with the stock 5.3. Not necessarily the best top end.

Looking at the TSP PRC head and cam packages, I think this would be a good way to go, and take some of the guesswork out of it. However, even looking at the packages, there are a lot of options..

stainless valves / hollow stem valves / inconel.?

Chamber size? 68cc is standard and I expect I want to stick with this, to avoid and milling, rather than sending brand new heads off to the machine shop.

Pushrod length: defaults to 7.475 I’m assuming that’s factory length. No idea if I’d need a different size until cam is in and heads are on.

Cam: looking at Stage 3 truck 216/220, .600”/.600” (112 lsa)

Timing chain: I think this is wise to replace, but I have no idea what to go with for the replacement. Lot of options..

Oil pump: I think this is also wise to replace, and don’t think there’s any need for higher pressure, but higher volume may be desirable.. so thinking the Melling HV pump.

Rocker arm trunnion upgrade: I definitely want to upgrade these but TSP kits are back ordered..

Any advice is very much appreciated

I also need to determine what is involved and part list what I need to swap the existing intake, for the NNBS intake. Money is less of an object at the moment, than time.

ETA: Any other supporting mods that I haven't listed here will certainly be appreciated, and entertained..

Smith Brothers for the trunion upgrade is what I used for both mine except I ended up throwing Yella Terra full roller rockers on my Denali later ($$$ for those lol).

Oil pump…if you have any kind of high mileage the high volume pump is recommended. I used Melling’s HV on the Denali.

Timing chain…I used a Cloyes True Roller set on both trucks. They’re high quality but won’t break the bank.

 

[Sam Harris]

Oh man. Nice little project. Get closer to Houston so I can look at this thing!! I been meaning to ask you about the transmission cooler you added. I want to so the same to mine as I have noticed during cooler Temps the minor 1-2 jerk has not been present. I want to add the cooler before texas heat rolls back in.

I should be migrating to near Ft. Worth around June.

 

[Fless]

I should be migrating to near Ft. Worth around June.

Need an emoji for sad and happy at the same time....

 

[mattbta]

Let my daughter borrow it for a move. I suppose I'll have to help her out tomorrow.

She has driven it twice in recent months and says she wants to trade me for her '14 V6 Camaro. nothxralph