What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Geotrash]

I replaced the Gruven heater hose tees with OEM tees. Got sick of the constant drips from the worm drive hose clamp connections and having to snug them up every 3-4 months. Impossible to get to the clamps once installed so it would take me an hour every time.

 

[the_tool_man]

These contract automatically, and are easy to install/remove with the right tool. There's a reason OEMs use them.

I grab a handfull every time I visit the U-pull-it. But the Helps section of every car parts store has them, too. I will say buying them online is hit-or-miss, as the size is frequently listed incorrectly.

 

[Just Fishing]

Thinking that it's on maybe?

I do know that if the rear seat passengers plug in headphones it disables rear speakers or if the rear entertainment screen is on and I'm still listening to music up front the music only come out the front speakers

Yeah that tv never turns off unless i turn off the truck.

Always hit me as weird.
I have also noticed the tv gets super hot when displaying nothing.
Outputs for my after market radio off, but it's still on.

Still wondering if its the control unit for the rear seats.

I had noticed that it looks like the prior owner tried to fix the rear speakers, or at least dissembled the driver side rear door, and did a terrible job putting it back together.

I'm fine with dumping the rear screen.
Had the inlaws kids in the back for a long trip in the wifes buick.
It has the exact same setup...

They didn't give two fks about the screen and head phones.

They were happy as long as they could keep their phones charged.

I might try an ebay screen later on.
At a minimum, it would plug the hole and not rattle like the screen i have.

My screen had some internal screws fall out, and rattle around.
Good chance they damaged something.

 

[Just Fishing]

I replaced the Gruven heater hose tees with OEM tees. Got sick of the constant drips from the worm drive hose clamp connections and having to snug them up every 3-4 months. Impossible to get to the clamps once installed so it would take me an hour every time.

Look at a clamptite.

There is a slight learning curve, but it uses wire to form a clamp.
No little gaps!

I got mine off of ebay for like $30 or less.

 

[Geotrash]

These contract automatically, and are easy to install/remove with the right tool. There's a reason OEMs use them.

I grab a handfull every time I visit the U-pull-it. But the Helps section of every car parts store has them, too. I will say buying them online is hit-or-miss, as the size is frequently listed incorrectly.

View attachment 363574

Thank you, yes I have a whole box of these, but I had to destroy the old connecting hoses taking them off of the tees, so I just didn’t feel like dealing with reinstalling them. I was also racing against the darkness yesterday evening, and need to use the truck for a camping trip this afternoon, so since I had a full set of OEM tees in my toolbox, I just went that route.

Also, the reason they leaked is because there is no barb on the aluminum tubes that go into the heater core at the firewall, and that’s where the leak would always come from which also meant that they were the most difficult clamps to reach. So, I was skeptical that spring clamps would do much better

 

[89Suburban]

So my Hoe has been sitting up on a lift all week at a shop with her ass hanging out. Having a hell of a time trying to get a decent used axle. He found had one shipped in for $1600 with a lifetime warranty. It showed up and he said it looked like it was pulled from a river and rusted to shit. He told them to take it back and stick it up their ass.

He was able to track down on of his former guys he did business with transmissions and axles. He can rebuild it with all new parts for about the same price and upgrade to an Auburn LS instead of the G80 govbomb. Supposed to get the parts in by next Tuesday. This pandemic has everything fu*ked up the ass trying to find stuff. Plus the inflation going on.

So I'm sure by the time everything is said and done I'll be over $2K parts and labor. Praying I have it back by the end of next week. I miss it SO bad. My work loaned me a '17 F-150 EC and I can't stand it. Hate it. But it's wheels. Miss my comfy baby.

 

[Tonyrodz]

So my Hoe has been sitting up on a lift all week at a shop with her ass hanging out. Having a hell of a time trying to get a decent used axle. He found had one shipped in for $1600 with a lifetime warranty. It showed up and he said it looked like it was pulled from a river and rusted to shit. He told them to take it back and stick it up their ass.

He was able to track down on of his former guys he did business with transmissions and axles. He can rebuild it with all new parts for about the same price and upgrade to an Auburn LS instead of the G80 govbomb. Supposed to get the parts in by next Tuesday. This pandemic has everything fu*ked up the ass trying to find stuff. Plus the inflation going on.

So I'm sure by the time everything is said and done I'll be over $2K parts and labor. Praying I have it back by the end of next week. I miss it SO bad. My work loaned me a '17 F-150 EC and I can't stand it. Hate it. But it's wheels. Miss my comfy baby.

Probably better off going the rebuilt route--plus you'll know what you have.

 

[iamdub]

These contract automatically, and are easy to install/remove with the right tool. There's a reason OEMs use them.

I grab a handfull every time I visit the U-pull-it. But the Helps section of every car parts store has them, too. I will say buying them online is hit-or-miss, as the size is frequently listed incorrectly.

View attachment 363574

And this is why I'm rocking clamps from GM, Ford and Honda. All from the salvage yard.

My "special" clamp tools:

 

[iamdub]

So my Hoe has been sitting up on a lift all week at a shop with her ass hanging out. Having a hell of a time trying to get a decent used axle. He found had one shipped in for $1600 with a lifetime warranty. It showed up and he said it looked like it was pulled from a river and rusted to shit. He told them to take it back and stick it up their ass.

He was able to track down on of his former guys he did business with transmissions and axles. He can rebuild it with all new parts for about the same price and upgrade to an Auburn LS instead of the G80 govbomb. Supposed to get the parts in by next Tuesday. This pandemic has everything fu*ked up the ass trying to find stuff. Plus the inflation going on.

So I'm sure by the time everything is said and done I'll be over $2K parts and labor. Praying I have it back by the end of next week. I miss it SO bad. My work loaned me a '17 F-150 EC and I can't stand it. Hate it. But it's wheels. Miss my comfy baby.

Why not the Detroit Truetrac? I thought that was the cat's ass for these things.

 

[89Suburban]

Why not the Detroit Truetrac? I thought that was the cat's ass for these things.

Cause I am a broke retard that lives paycheck to paycheck.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Cause I am a broke retard that lives paycheck to paycheck.

Don't feel bad, that's the majority of the working poor--me included.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Cause I am a broke retard that lives paycheck to paycheck.

$2k for a rear end ain't nothing to sneeze at. I want to learn how to rebuild one at some point. Just not wanting to learn from mine breaking. Hope they get you back on the road soon. I hate spending money on things like that.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Cause I am a broke retard that lives paycheck to paycheck.

Same…

 

[Doubeleive]

So my Hoe has been sitting up on a lift all week at a shop with her ass hanging out. Having a hell of a time trying to get a decent used axle. He found had one shipped in for $1600 with a lifetime warranty. It showed up and he said it looked like it was pulled from a river and rusted to shit. He told them to take it back and stick it up their ass.

He was able to track down on of his former guys he did business with transmissions and axles. He can rebuild it with all new parts for about the same price and upgrade to an Auburn LS instead of the G80 govbomb. Supposed to get the parts in by next Tuesday. This pandemic has everything fu*ked up the ass trying to find stuff. Plus the inflation going on.

So I'm sure by the time everything is said and done I'll be over $2K parts and labor. Praying I have it back by the end of next week. I miss it SO bad. My work loaned me a '17 F-150 EC and I can't stand it. Hate it. But it's wheels. Miss my comfy baby.

for that kind of money just get a eaton detroit and call it a day, the auburn wont last

 

[Doubeleive]

Cause I am a broke retard that lives paycheck to paycheck.

for the money you are paying already that is what should be put in there, shouldn't be more than $1800 and some change, using the auburn the guys making a couple hundred extra in his pocket

 

[Just Fishing]

And this is why I'm rocking clamps from GM, Ford and Honda. All from the salvage yard.

View attachment 363658


My "special" clamp tools:

View attachment 363659

I'm going to get some while i have the engine out for the second time.
These are the same size for both of them, correct?

 

[Doubeleive]

@89Suburban
look at this page, and figure out what you have on the rear end, then click on the link and price up the eaton you need, it should be around $600, on his page it's $559

Filthy Motorsports | King Shocks and Off-Road Racing Parts

 

[Just Fishing]

$2k for a rear end ain't nothing to sneeze at. I want to learn how to rebuild one at some point. Just not wanting to learn from mine breaking. Hope they get you back on the road soon. I hate spending money on things like that.

I did the bearings and seals on my old S10 with the G80 in there.

I didn't mess with the ring gear and crap, but i replaced every bearing and seal except for the ones in the spider gears.
Not hard, Youtube was my best friend.

What I want to learn is how to do the gearing stuff.
Doesn't look too hard, just very fiddly.
From what i gathered, you want two pinion bearings.
One to destroy (make it so you can take it off easily in order to set depth), and one to use in the final assembly...

When i did mine, the bearings were all shot.
Cages were paper thin.
I think it was a combo of too much gear oil (I thought it was a good thing)
and running it a good half quart low for an 800-mile road trip..

 

[Doubeleive]

I broke a couple auburns but I guess i'm "special".....

 

[Just Fishing]

And hoe disassembly begins in a few minutes.
Garage warming up...

Planning to get the intake and crap off first.
then I go under the truck.

Last night I used my suction tool to remove the transmission fluid...

I still need to drain the coolant.
Planning to do it from the block drains, I'm going to try and catch as much of my brand-new AC Delco coolant as possible...