- Joined
- May 9, 2018
- Posts
- 7,137
- Reaction score
- 13,928
Where did you stop when you took the picture?
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I had my camera ready to take the picture because I knew it was coming. It worked out with me stopping at a red light.Where did you stop when you took the picture?
- Joined
- May 9, 2018
- Posts
- 7,137
- Reaction score
- 13,928
Ah, yes.... Those cop cars have red lights.....
HahahAh, yes.... Those cop cars have red lights.....
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Checked out the Tahoe today--finally. Pulled the plugs. Cylinder 2 was discolored(black)and ever so slightly wet--not much. All other plugs were great. There's probably 500 miles on them since they were changed.
Cylinders 2,4,6 and 8.
Cylinders 1,3,5 and 7.
Looked great, as they should.
I tightened 3 loose exhaust manifold bolts on the driver's side. That's where I was having an issue with stf/ltf, bank 1. I guess that was the issue. Runs 100 times better, but I still heard a little popping from the exhaust. Nothing loud or anything, but I heard it.
I saw some antifreeze drip out of the right side heater core line. I guess I leaned on it when I was trying to pull that last plug. I pushed it in and gently wiggled it, and it seemed fine. I let it run for awhile, then took it for a ride. System didn't pressurize, so idk what to think about that. Needle didn't move a lot past 160 degrees. Heat worked. Guess I'll keep an eye on it. No more leaks tho.
Cylinders 2,4,6 and 8.
Cylinders 1,3,5 and 7.
Looked great, as they should.
I tightened 3 loose exhaust manifold bolts on the driver's side. That's where I was having an issue with stf/ltf, bank 1. I guess that was the issue. Runs 100 times better, but I still heard a little popping from the exhaust. Nothing loud or anything, but I heard it.
I saw some antifreeze drip out of the right side heater core line. I guess I leaned on it when I was trying to pull that last plug. I pushed it in and gently wiggled it, and it seemed fine. I let it run for awhile, then took it for a ride. System didn't pressurize, so idk what to think about that. Needle didn't move a lot past 160 degrees. Heat worked. Guess I'll keep an eye on it. No more leaks tho.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Unfortunately that fuse is good. I'm wondering if a wire melted or came unplugged. I used that rear pwr port for my air pump, which got hot a few times.
@iamdub regarding the fuel pump
So after driving a day I pulled the taped down panel off the floor to check for any fuel connection leaks and everything looked good to go. I deburred the cut metal areas, cleaned off any rust spots bets I could. Treated any exposed/rusty metal areas with some combination spray primer/paint. Cut up some aluminum mounting tabs to mount to the access panel using aluminum rivets. Sealed everything up with Sikaflex 1A adhesive/sealant. I then used some stego tape to cover that to protect it from the carpeting/padding. Reinstalled all the interior. I'm sorry I didn't get any pics. Frigid ass cold out here.
So after driving a day I pulled the taped down panel off the floor to check for any fuel connection leaks and everything looked good to go. I deburred the cut metal areas, cleaned off any rust spots bets I could. Treated any exposed/rusty metal areas with some combination spray primer/paint. Cut up some aluminum mounting tabs to mount to the access panel using aluminum rivets. Sealed everything up with Sikaflex 1A adhesive/sealant. I then used some stego tape to cover that to protect it from the carpeting/padding. Reinstalled all the interior. I'm sorry I didn't get any pics. Frigid ass cold out here.
- Joined
- May 9, 2018
- Posts
- 7,137
- Reaction score
- 13,928
I feel that my Yukon drives fine..... smooth...... But, I wonder if getting a fresh set of plugs ( even coils?)... Might make it better? I have no idea how old my stuff is....
F_Uck I posted in the wrong thread again.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Plugs can't hurt. How's your wires?
- Joined
- May 9, 2018
- Posts
- 7,137
- Reaction score
- 13,928
I can relate..... Hard to keep track of all this fun 'chit'.
pimpdout98gt
TYF Newbie
knocked out the oil pump pickup tube o-ring and oil pan gasket
Were you getting low oil pressure ?
iamdub
Full Access Member
The stock plugs and wires of an LS are generally "good" for 100-150K. But, it depends on the condition of the engine and its operating environment, which, as you know, inspecting the plugs can specify. With an LS, I'd definitely inspect the plugs if I had never done so. Not so much to replace, but to compare the cylinders due to the PCV system. Coils tend to either work or not. If you were so inclined, you could spark test every cylinder to look for a variance to identify a weaker coil. Otherwise, it's just the plugs and wires that are the wear items.
- Joined
- May 9, 2018
- Posts
- 7,137
- Reaction score
- 13,928
Thanks for the coaching...... What were those REALLY nice wires? ( round coils)..
....and I suppose to replace plugs with OEM? ( plug numbers?)
I guess I'm a bit lazy to search the recent posts. My bad....
Attachments
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
OEM plugs are AC Delco 41-962
iamdub
Full Access Member
Are those wires original? I can't make out the lettering. They look blue.
You can't beat OEM wires and plugs. They last +100K miles and, if they're good enough for modded Corvettes, etc., they're more than sufficient for a stock 5.3 in an SUV. Surely you'd know better than to fall for the gimmick plugs. I believe yours came from the factory with platinum plugs. In all honesty, old-fashioned copper plugs perform best as far as producing spark. They just require more voltage to spark and don't last nearly as long as the platinum, iridium, etc. variants. With the platinums, etc., the loss in sparking power is a small compromise when you don't have to replace them every ~30K miles.
As for aftermarket wires, I've never been let down by Taylor. On past vehicles, I've had issues with MSD (I think a few of us here have) and Accel. I'd stick with OEM, but would get Taylor if I wanted a pretty color. Last I checked, they tended to be the same price, if not cheaper than AC Delco Original. Actually, I've been wanting to replace my wires but just haven't bothered.
- Joined
- May 9, 2018
- Posts
- 7,137
- Reaction score
- 13,928
Thanks... " If it ain't broke..".... I'll check out Taylor....
As for MSD..... C R A P....... Unless they are from the specialty racing plant. ( My buds in the NHRA world world will never use MSD standard junk in their personal cars.
My old '88 GMC truck, MSD caps & wires failed 3 times in 3 months as I replaced them each time.
As for MSD..... C R A P....... Unless they are from the specialty racing plant. ( My buds in the NHRA world world will never use MSD standard junk in their personal cars.
My old '88 GMC truck, MSD caps & wires failed 3 times in 3 months as I replaced them each time.
SRQYukon
Full Access Member
Cool LEDS. You finally gave those useless slots a purpose.
They actually do have a purpose. They’re there to let the pressurized cabin air out so that when you slam a door it doesn’t pop your ear drums. There’s rubber flaps behind them on the body that act as a one-way valve. Air can come out but not in.
Similar threads
