What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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89Suburban

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Kind of curious, @89Suburban why you had to cut the nylon lines. I take it you weren't able to remove the metal pump lines from the (not-so-quick) connectors?
Because they were rusted into oblivion.


I love you guys too much, I have to show you how I attacked this out of mutual respect. Not proud of it but doing what I have to do. :(

I mean, I am proud, but not in the eyes of the word as it is today. :(



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I used a Sawzall and drill bits to keep sparks from flying. :(


And the tie wire is strictly to keep the lines from blowing off the non barbed connections. :(
 

iamdub

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Because they were rusted into oblivion.


I love you guys too much, I have to show you how I attacked this out of mutual respect. Not proud of it but doing what I have to do. :(

I mean, I am proud, but not in the eyes of the word as it is today. :(



View attachment 360825View attachment 360826View attachment 360827View attachment 360828View attachment 360829





I used a Sawzall and drill bits to keep sparks from flying. :(


And the tie wire is strictly to keep the lines from blowing off the non barbed connections. :(

Please get this fixed properly ASAP!

3.4 Bar is less than 50 psi. I know there's a safety margin for the hose rating, but it's still risky as the fuel system operates around and above 50. You deserve to go out in a better way than being roasted in an old Tahoe.
 

alpha_omega

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Sorry to say that they're fuel pump lines, not evap.
Even worse…

@89Suburban
Aha! See…your problem is all that rust. You just have to scrub that stuff out of there an viola! Shouldn’t take more than a couple of minutes, then they will come apart…after lots of cursing, a drill bit and sawzall blade.

I’m glad you were able to get a temp fix done. Damn rust belt!
 
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randeez

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Please get this fixed properly ASAP!

3.4 Bar is less than 50 psi. I know there's a safety margin for the hose rating, but it's still risky as the fuel system operates around and above 50. You deserve to go out in a better way than being roasted in an old Tahoe.
damn why'd yall let him do that shit. surely we couldve come up with a better way

at this point i would look into trying to find those quick disconnect fittings looks like 3/8? that hard plastic hose if you put just a little (little heat slowly like heat gun on low - NOT A TORCH) heat into it it will go over a hose barb i would still put a hose clamp on it though.
 

randeez

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pwtr02ss

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Y'all are worried about the hose clamps, but what about the zip ties?

Zip ties don't make good hose clamps!

At least you didn't have to drop the tank :oops:
I didn't even see the zip ties the first round!

I started typing as soon as I saw the standard clamps. I remember specifically having to buy FI clamps when I did my 74 as no one make a push lock style fitting for the 87 sending unit.
 

Doubeleive

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I need help. Is there any repair fix or adapters for replacing this? Without replacing the whole fuel hose assembly? These are off my rotted out fuel pump. :(


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i'm wondering why you didn't just cut the metal line and then you could have probably just crushed the rusted metal line where the plastic tabs are (like the heater hose t connectors) and then removed the remainder of the lines and put the new pump on and been on your way. regardless you can just buy a couple fuel line repair kits the correct size they run less than $20 each and have everything you need to do a proper repair. yes they make a kit for just this kind of thing. dorman, napa, maybe some others
 

randeez

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i'm wondering why you didn't just cut the metal line and then you could have probably just crushed the rusted metal line where the plastic tabs are (like the heater hose t connectors) and then removed the remainder of the lines and put the new pump on and been on your way. regardless you can just buy a couple fuel line repair kits the correct size they run less than $20 each and have everything you need to do a proper repair. yes they make a kit for just this kind of thing. dorman, napa, maybe some others

yep thats kinda what i was thinking...even if you ruined the plastic retainer getting the rusted pipe out, you could still buy the repair kit and just steal the retainer out of them
 

pwtr02ss

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i'm wondering why you didn't just cut the metal line and then you could have probably just crushed the rusted metal line where the plastic tabs are (like the heater hose t connectors) and then removed the remainder of the lines and put the new pump on and been on your way. regardless you can just buy a couple fuel line repair kits the correct size they run less than $20 each and have everything you need to do a proper repair. yes they make a kit for just this kind of thing. dorman, napa, maybe some others

yep thats kinda what i was thinking...even if you ruined the plastic retainer getting the rusted pipe out, you could still buy the repair kit and just steal the retainer out of them
I can only guess a level of frustration. I've done some things when I hit a certain point that looking back, I questioned myself lol.

Good thing is, its an easy fix and napa or any local parts store will have what he needs in stock. Thanks to you guys, he knows exactly what he needs, part numbers and all.
 

Doubeleive

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I can only guess a level of frustration. I've done some things when I hit a certain point that looking back, I questioned myself lol.

Good thing is, its an easy fix and napa or any local parts store will have what he needs in stock. Thanks to you guys, he knows exactly what he needs, part numbers and all.
not really related but "frustrated" brought back a memory
I remember way back when I was Super broke and Super broke I had a old mazda to get around don't remember the model but I had just beat out about 10,000 other applicants for a job at DANA corp welding and it had a decent starting wage and I thought my money problems would be solved I just had to make it thru 2-weeks training on time everyday in the next town over, no brainer right? well fate decided different on the 2nd morning of leaving to go to training where the throttle cable passed thru the firewall it was a weak spot and the firewall decided to tear and fall inward towards your feet therefore rendering the throttle cable useless, man I considered everything even tying a string to the throttle lol but there just wasn't enough "force" against the return spring to make it happen, needless to say I lost that job opportunity but I did come up with a novel idea of having a bracket made that held the throttle cable where it passed thru the firewall and just made the outer part bigger so it covered over the tear in the firewall and it actually worked quit well, I just made a rough drawing of what I needed and took it to the local machine shop, later while looking in the junkyard for parts to keep it running I noticed a couple more in the junkyard with torn firewalls that likely ended up there just because of that. I sometimes wonder where I would be today if that firewall had never torn...a simple little thing was a life changing event.
 

89Suburban

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What's got me confused with the dorman parts is basically any website I look them up on it says non of them fit my truck.


1GNFK130X7J144060
 

Fless

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What's got me confused with the dorman parts is basically any website I look them up on it says non of them fit my truck.


1GNFK130X7J144060

It's the same with the fuel tank strap bolts -- Dorman says they won't fit mine but they're an exact replacement part.

For these particular retaining clips I used them on my '04 and the GM ones are pretty much all the same, with that style of quick connect. These are the correct size for your two fuel pump lines.
 

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