What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Fless

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So I hooked up the Tech2 this evening and it showed a 3% ethanol content. I then unplugged it and plugged my OBDLink MX+ Bluetooth dongle in and started the Torque app and it showed 3.1%.

I guess yesterday it was still calculating after she filled it up. She did it right after leaving work and drove about 25 miles home. Then she drove it to work and back today and I checked it after she got home.

Still surprised that it's only 3%. The last 3 tanks have been Mobil premium, Mobil premium, and Quick Trip premium.

Was it the Torque PID that was working for you?
 

alpha_omega

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My parents have a rental, good to have someone else pay the mortgage for you while it builds equity.

Yes some renters suck, like the time that one renter decided to remove a fruit tree with out checking with us first.

My dad brought that thing back from japan, it was a gift from a dear friend.

He was not happy, nope not happy.

Good news is my house came with one, a Japanese pear tree.
59878A49-4E38-4E2D-8DF8-AA2840705FC4.jpegB37D278C-8792-4601-AE39-1A80C1DE4CC2.jpeg
That would piss me off too…almost as bad as what these renters did. Brand new walnut cabinets were painted like some mixture between fiesta-ware and a bad psychedelic trip at the carnival.
There’s no amount of equity that will make up for these kind of bad life decisions.
 

avalonandl

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Had a new Delphi fuel pump installed today, seems to have cured her of the idle miss. And hopefully the stalling that happened a while back.

Paying the bill caused me to reflect a bit on shop billing practices. Don’t get me wrong, I was satisfied to pay the bill and put the problem in the rear view mirror. Yet it comes across as greedy to me when there’s a labor charge that’s probably 5x what the tech is being paid, AND the parts are marked up WAY above what anyone can pay across the counter at a retail parts store.

Yeah, I understand overhead, profit margins, and all that. But it leaves the taste of double dipping every time.
They're making overhead and all they sell is candles.....

 

Bill 1960

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So I hooked up the Tech2 this evening and it showed a 3% ethanol content. I then unplugged it and plugged my OBDLink MX+ Bluetooth dongle in and started the Torque app and it showed 3.1%.

I guess yesterday it was still calculating after she filled it up. She did it right after leaving work and drove about 25 miles home. Then she drove it to work and back today and I checked it after she got home.

Still surprised that it's only 3%. The last 3 tanks have been Mobil premium, Mobil premium, and Quick Trip premium.
Is my understanding correct, this generation -mine’s an 08- uses the virtual sensor that calculates ethanol from fuel trim data?
 

wsteele

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Is my understanding correct, this generation -mine’s an 08- uses the virtual sensor that calculates ethanol from fuel trim data?
Correct, no physical sensor, the software calculates it. In my 07, which also has an 06 style fuel pressure management scheme, my virtual sensor is usually between 15-20% off the actual number in the tank.

FWIW- According to the shop manual, +\- 15% is within spec.
 

Rocket Man

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View attachment 346784View attachment 346785
That would piss me off too…almost as bad as what these renters did. Brand new walnut cabinets were painted like some mixture between fiesta-ware and a bad psychedelic trip at the carnival.
There’s no amount of equity that will make up for these kind of bad life decisions.
Looks like they did a good job of painting! :devilfinger:
 

the_tool_man

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Had a new Delphi fuel pump installed today, seems to have cured her of the idle miss. And hopefully the stalling that happened a while back.

Paying the bill caused me to reflect a bit on shop billing practices. Don’t get me wrong, I was satisfied to pay the bill and put the problem in the rear view mirror. Yet it comes across as greedy to me when there’s a labor charge that’s probably 5x what the tech is being paid, AND the parts are marked up WAY above what anyone can pay across the counter at a retail parts store.

Yeah, I understand overhead, profit margins, and all that. But it leaves the taste of double dipping every time.
I do most of my own work, partially to avoid the high shop rates in my area. When I do take it somewhere, I have one shop that will let me supply the parts, and just charge me labor. Had them do a fuel pump swap on my Expedition a few years ago. I figured $165 labor to rnr the full fuel tank and swap the pump was a great deal, since about the only way to do it is to use a lift.

Every other reputable shop I've tried to use, won't allow me to supply my own parts, undoubtedly because parts markup is a nice chunk of their revenue stream. Aside from the money savings, I like to KNOW that the right part, from the right OEM supplier, was installed. I don't want cheap substitutes that might cause issues. I guess a crooked shop could always eBay what I bring, and still swap in a cheap knockoff. But I assume they wouldn't go to that much trouble.
 

pwtr02ss

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Had a new Delphi fuel pump installed today, seems to have cured her of the idle miss. And hopefully the stalling that happened a while back.

Paying the bill caused me to reflect a bit on shop billing practices. Don’t get me wrong, I was satisfied to pay the bill and put the problem in the rear view mirror. Yet it comes across as greedy to me when there’s a labor charge that’s probably 5x what the tech is being paid, AND the parts are marked up WAY above what anyone can pay across the counter at a retail parts store.

Yeah, I understand overhead, profit margins, and all that. But it leaves the taste of double dipping every time.
Tell me about it. Yesterday i had the dealer do a transmission fluid and filter change on the Denali (10 speed). They first did a fluid exchange and fill, THEN pulled the pan, replaced the filter and topped off with 8 more quarts of the dexron ulv fluid. Total of 20 quarts of fluid I paid for

My fault because steph took it up there and they asked before the fluid exchange. She said to change the fluid and filter and that’s what they did. $631.79 later, the fluid and filter is changed lol. The fluid on rockauto is about $6 a quart and the filter is around $30. I would’ve done all this at home but it has no dipstick and I haven’t found any good info on doing it myself. Oh well, it has all new fluid and is rid of the break-in material. Hopefully it lasts a long time and I will prob push the next service to 100k miles. Currently has 38k
 

Rocket Man

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Tell me about it. Yesterday i had the dealer do a transmission fluid and filter change on the Denali (10 speed). They first did a fluid exchange and fill, THEN pulled the pan, replaced the filter and topped off with 8 more quarts of the dexron ulv fluid. Total of 20 quarts of fluid I paid for

My fault because steph took it up there and they asked before the fluid exchange. She said to change the fluid and filter and that’s what they did. $631.79 later, the fluid and filter is changed lol. The fluid on rockauto is about $6 a quart and the filter is around $30. I would’ve done all this at home but it has no dipstick and I haven’t found any good info on doing it myself. Oh well, it has all new fluid and is rid of the break-in material. Hopefully it lasts a long time and I will prob push the next service to 100k miles. Currently has 38k
ouch
 

89Suburban

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I hate AFM
Yep definitely loading up with oil when the AFM crap is active. I mean enough to see at night with a tailgater up my ass. Sucks for them though. Need to run a week with out the RTD for inspection which is due in a few months. Just did a trial run for 20 minutes and did not like it. The 'ol girl doesn't either.
 

Monz11

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Mine is completely gone on the trunk line next to the alternator (can see it in my sig pic). It's still hanging on most everywhere else, but can easily be cracked and chipped away. I wanna replace it either with new of that same type or the mesh style that @Monz11 has. I like the fully-encapsulating aspect of the factory loom but the mesh would look more modern and would match how I did my Big 3 wiring.

I intermittently research brands and materials of the convoluted style to see what holds up as good or better than the factory stuff, but quickly lose interest due to inconclusive findings. I'll likely get the mesh since I see that it's split. I thought it wasn't, which would require unpinning of every connector too large to fit.
I got the summit mesh and used the painless accessories to loom it on. It was pretty painless! LOL
 

iamdub

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I have trust issues, I try to do everything myself. At least I know who to blame if something is effed up.

Same here. I can't even trust myself. I crushed a vent hose when reinstalling my tank even after I did it correctly just months before. Still, I'd rather be at fault for an eff-up than someone I'm paying to not eff up.
 

Monz11

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Ok guys sorry, I haven't posted in awhile, been in CA at Tokyo Prep Camp. I leave 22AUG, so I will post race dates & times when it gets closer. In the meantime, you can help support me and my Paralympic journey, by grabbing a Tshirt, from the TEAMUSASHOP:
sereda T.jpg
 

Rocket Man

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Same here. I can't even trust myself. I crushed a vent hose when reinstalling my tank even after I did it correctly just months before. Still, I'd rather be at fault for an eff-up than someone I'm paying to not eff up.
Those stupid hard plastic vent hoses are easy to crush. I did it too and ended up having to cut it out and replace it with a rubber section. The fittings on them are a real PIA so I always leave them connected to the canister and inevitably I end up messing them up. :mad:
 

iamdub

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Those stupid hard plastic vent hoses are easy to crush. I did it too and ended up having to cut it out and replace it with a rubber section. The fittings on them are a real PIA so I always leave them connected to the canister and inevitably I end up messing them up. :mad:

They are fragile, but perfectly fine if routed properly where it just safely lays on top of things. You're supposed to raise the tank up close to the crossmembers, then route this one hose OVER the crossmember, then raise the tank all the way into position. I did this the first time I R/R'ed the tank. Not the second time. The hose was pinched 100% flat and airtight between the top of the tank and the crossmember that it should've gone over.

I wanted to replace it with a hose just to ensure that it didn't leak, but it's a convoluted hose so I would've had to epoxy something onto it. I also didn't wanna have to track down fuel vapor-rated hose. It didn't appear to have any pinholes in the creases so I sent it. So far, so good.
 

Geotrash

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Ok guys sorry, I haven't posted in awhile, been in CA at Tokyo Prep Camp. I leave 22AUG, so I will post race dates & times when it gets closer. In the meantime, you can help support me and my Paralympic journey, by grabbing a Tshirt, from the TEAMUSASHOP:
View attachment 346829
Done!!
 

FrankU

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Ok guys sorry, I haven't posted in awhile, been in CA at Tokyo Prep Camp. I leave 22AUG, so I will post race dates & times when it gets closer. In the meantime, you can help support me and my Paralympic journey, by grabbing a Tshirt, from the TEAMUSASHOP:
View attachment 346829
I couldn't check out , no Visa and no PayPal.
 

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