What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[alpha_omega]

Is the tech 2 the only way to lead the abs?

Was just thinking to replace the factory rubber line on the front calipers.
But we shall see I suppose.
I haven't looked into it much, but I don't think anybody even makes stainless lines for these since they aren't track cars by any means.

It’s the only way to fully bleed/flush/purge the system. There are other OBD scanners who claim they can do the ABS bleed. They are also the same ones who claim they can do a throttle body relearn, but I have yet to see one that can do either of them fully/properly like the Tech2.

 

[alpha_omega]

I am doing this right now. I was freaking out because I thought I lost a white plunger. Now I see in your video yours is missing as well. The is the rocker switch for the rear window locks and only moves to one side so that makes sends now. PHEW!!!

My plunger shafts are all also filthy. Scrubbing those up as well. I used a lint free rag dipped in warm soapy water for these.

All my brass contacts look surprisingly clean as a whistle. Except for the last pair at the rear which are for the door locks, which IS the one giving me issues. Curious as to why it's just those two. Because they are at the rear of the switch? Higher current draw? Or because they are hardly ever used? Strange but interesting to learn. I DO notice just a little bit of crud build up on the top side of the white rubber brass contact holder. I am wondering because if this is the rear of the switch and any rain water got in there over the years causing this issue. That is my hunch. Scrubbed that as well with the warm water rag and light blow gun action.

You’ve got me curious now. My uncles Lexus has been having this intermittent problem where he can’t roll up the RH rear window from the drivers seat. I wonder if it’s because he’s left the window down in the past or if it’s gotten crud built up inside there like you mentioned. Thanks for the “lightbulb”.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

It’s the only way to fully bleed/flush/purge the system. There are other OBD scanners who claim they can do the ABS bleed. They are also the same ones who claim they can do a throttle body relearn, but I have yet to see one that can do either of them fully/properly like the Tech2.

Is here any particular tech 2 I should buy?

 

[89Suburban]

You’ve got me curious now. My uncles Lexus has been having this intermittent problem where he can’t roll up the RH rear window from the drivers seat. I wonder if it’s because he’s left the window down in the past or if it’s gotten crud built up inside there like you mentioned. Thanks for the “lightbulb”.

Here's some pics.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Is here any particular tech 2 I should buy?

Cheap GM Tech2/ Saab Tech2 Diagnostic Scanner Full Package

GM TECH2 Scanner Full package comes with free TIS2000 Software, you can choose one kind of software for GM, SAAB, OPEL, SUZUKI, ISUZU, and Holden.

www.chinacardiags.com

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Cheap GM Tech2/ Saab Tech2 Diagnostic Scanner Full Package

GM TECH2 Scanner Full package comes with free TIS2000 Software, you can choose one kind of software for GM, SAAB, OPEL, SUZUKI, ISUZU, and Holden.

www.chinacardiags.com

Thanks!
Do I get it with "GM Tis2000 USBKEY Free Get"?

 

[wsteele]

Is here any particular tech 2 I should buy?

There are basically two options. Buy a genuine Tech 2 (used) or get a China clone. The clones sold retail by a lot of different people (most from China, a few with their cousins here in the US). My personal guess is there is one source of manufacture in China that all these different people get their product from to sell.

The genuine articles I think have better connectors, etc., but also are used. Used in shops, so... The genuine articles always seem to be 2x-4x more expensive than a new clone.

I bought my clone on eBay from a guy in China. I just picked the highest rated seller I could find (probably an oxymoron) who also had a decent price (I think I paid like $330 delivered to my door). When I bought it they quoted like 2 months delivery (which didn't seem strange when I considered how slow boats from China are). Mine came in about 7 days DHL, go figure.

My clone came with cables that had a lot of flashing around connectors that could pose problems. It also came with a few bent pins on the DB25 connector on the bottom of the hand held unit that made the CANdi module not visible (and made my Tech 2 useless). Once I found the bent pins and trimmed a few of the cables of their excess flashing with an Xacto knife, it has worked flawlessly for me.

If you knew all of the above already, my bad, just thought I would throw it out there.

 

[swathdiver]

Is here any particular tech 2 I should buy?

Make sure it has the 33.004 software and all the accessories for self-tests and various ways of powering it up and hooking it up. Your choice on getting the case or not.

I have used mine almost daily since 2017. In that time I have replaced the OBDII adapter a time or two, the cable, the VCI Module and even the PCMCIA card with the software on it. The Real Time Clock quit passing the self-tests years ago and changing the internal battery didn't make a difference. In reading the comments, a lot of dealerships and shops bought the same replacements parts for their "genuine" articles as I did from Amazon. Stuff wears out.

You will also want an adapter to connect the Tech-2 to a modern computer if you want to program modules. Below is the one I purchased and it is plug and play. Since then, another member located another that is plug and play also for much less but I can never remember who or what!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000VYJRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You do not NEED the TIS2000 software and "key". This software will work for updating GMT800 and other vintage vehicles and you can download a "snapshot" from the Tech-2 to view it on a computer screen which is nice. It is a pain to install and requires an older machine running XP or Windows 7. I have videos on my youtube channel showing this.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

There are basically two options. Buy a genuine Tech 2 (used) or get a China clone. The clones sold retail by a lot of different people (most from China, a few with their cousins here in the US). My personal guess is there is one source of manufacture in China that all these different people get their product from to sell.

The genuine articles I think have better connectors, etc., but also are used. Used in shops, so... The genuine articles always seem to be 2x-4x more expensive than a new clone.

I bought my clone on eBay from a guy in China. I just picked the highest rated seller I could find (probably an oxymoron) who also had a decent price (I think I paid like $330 delivered to my door). When I bought it they quoted like 2 months delivery (which didn't seem strange when I considered how slow boats from China are). Mine came in about 7 days DHL, go figure.

My clone came with cables that had a lot of flashing around connectors that could pose problems. It also came with a few bent pins on the DB25 connector on the bottom of the hand held unit that made the CANdi module not visible (and made my Tech 2 useless). Once I found the bent pins and trimmed a few of the cables of their excess flashing with an Xacto knife, it has worked flawlessly for me.

If you knew all of the above already, my bad, just thought I would throw it out there.

No, I appreciate the info. I really don't know much about the tech 2.
I really wanted one back in '07 when I had my supercharged cobalt, but I couldn't find one anywhere at the time. Everybody said only the dealer had them. ‍
Haven't looked at trying to get one since then.

Make sure it has the 33.004 software and all the accessories for self-tests and various ways of powering it up and hooking it up. Your choice on getting the case or not.

I have used mine almost daily since 2017. In that time I have replaced the OBDII adapter a time or two, the cable, the VCI Module and even the PCMCIA card with the software on it. The Real Time Clock quit passing the self-tests years ago and changing the internal battery didn't make a difference. In reading the comments, a lot of dealerships and shops bought the same replacements parts for their "genuine" articles as I did from Amazon. Stuff wears out.

You will also want an adapter to connect the Tech-2 to a modern computer if you want to program modules. Below is the one I purchased and it is plug and play. Since then, another member located another that is plug and play also for much less but I can never remember who or what!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000VYJRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You do not NEED the TIS2000 software and "key". This software will work for updating GMT800 and other vintage vehicles and you can download a "snapshot" from the Tech-2 to view it on a computer screen which is nice. It is a pain to install and requires an older machine running XP or Windows 7. I have videos on my youtube channel showing this.

Thank you very much!
I'll have to look around a bit then.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

The link I shared is where I got mine. Language should be GM-English for the 33.0044 version and get the tis2000 key as well cuz why not?

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

I’m currently using VMware to run windows 7. 32 bit on a virtual machine and a usb to serial adapter to link my tech2 to my virtual installation.

 

[FrankU]

First link www.chinacardiag.com

Trojans are programs that claim to perform one function but actually do another, typically malicious. Trojans can take the form of attachments, downloads, and fake videos/programs and, once active on a system, may do a number of things, including stealing sensitive data or taking control of the device.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Well when you input the correct address
Chinacardiags.com
It goes to the correct website.

 

[a4edwin]

Finally got her inspected. Ny won’t let you register the car unless it passes inspection

 

[Just Fishing]

Hey…it sure beats the two man bleeder method. Which usually ends up being a one man method since one guy up front is lost or not paying attention, smashing the pedal to the floor before, while and after you telling them “ok, slowly pump the brake” right up until just before a lot of cursing pursues (muffled or out loud).

Which vac tool are you using? The Motive or mightyvac whichever name they are using these days.

Its just a cheap one i found on amazon.
Uses air pressure from my air compressor to power it.
Works good, but i threw away the little adapter for the brake bleeders, i just stick the little rubber end right over the nipples.

Iirc they are liks 25 bucks, i also use it to suck fluids out, and to prime a transfer pump i use to drain transmission fluid.

Mine dropped snd it broke off its lil muffler, works waaay better since then!

 

[Trippers99hoe]

The link CaptainAmerica1 shared is where I got m Tech2 clone,It came 2 weeks faster than expected.

 

[Bill 1960]

The Hoe in recent days has developed an occasional stumble / miss at idle. No issues at speed. Probably time for plugs and wires. Any other thoughts?

I did clean the MAF a few thousand miles ago. The only recent work was the brake vacuum booster was replaced. I did have to drive it for about a week with the leaky booster, and of course the idle was affected by the significant vacuum leak in that.

The miss is only occasional. Doesn’t seem to matter hot or cold, and sometimes it’ll drive for hours and not miss a beat.

 

[Doubeleive]

The Hoe in recent days has developed an occasional stumble / miss at idle. No issues at speed. Probably time for plugs and wires. Any other thoughts?

I did clean the MAF a few thousand miles ago. The only recent work was the brake vacuum booster was replaced. I did have to drive it for about a week with the leaky booster, and of course the idle was affected by the significant vacuum leak in that.

The miss is only occasional. Doesn’t seem to matter hot or cold, and sometimes it’ll drive for hours and not miss a beat.

injector cleaner for a few tanks or injector service, usually runs about $80 find a place that has the tool that connects to the fuel rail

 

[Doubeleive]

I put injector cleaner in at least 4/5 tank full's on a regular basis usually buy a 12 pack at walmart for .99 cents each, if the idle even starts to wobble then I clean the intake, filter, maf, throttle body otherwise as a habit about every 3 months only takes a few minutes and the cleaner is cheap $3-4 a can. Keeps the engine happy and while in there I eyeball everything if something is amiss I catch it before it becomes a problem. (or try to anyway). cheap insurance.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

The Hoe in recent days has developed an occasional stumble / miss at idle. No issues at speed. Probably time for plugs and wires. Any other thoughts?

I did clean the MAF a few thousand miles ago. The only recent work was the brake vacuum booster was replaced. I did have to drive it for about a week with the leaky booster, and of course the idle was affected by the significant vacuum leak in that.

The miss is only occasional. Doesn’t seem to matter hot or cold, and sometimes it’ll drive for hours and not miss a beat.

Pull the throttle body and clean the crap out of it if you haven't done that