What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Some of you are making the motor mount swap harder than you need to. It can be done completely from above if you pull the steering shaft. I used an engine hoist to lift the engine. But careful use of a jack works, too. Don't be afraid to cut off the heat shield on the old mount, which is in the way of the mount-to-block bolts. It took me 2 hours with help from a tall, long-armed buddy to reach the rear bolts.
Yeah, break or cut that heat shield off before even trying to remove the block bolts. I spent more time trying to get to those bolts with that shield there, then realized I'm not reusing that shield and cut it off and was able to easily access the block bolts.

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the_tool_man

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...I do have an engine hoist, but figured the jack was easier than pulling the hoist out then figuring a way or where to hook it...
In my case, I was at my buddy's house, with a gravel driveway. So rolling the hoist was easier than a jack. We used a small tow strap wrapped around the front accessory drive. You have to pull the intake tube from the TB, but that's easy enough. You have to pull the engine cover off to make enough room to rock it over anyway. So access is as easy as it gets.
 

swathdiver

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I have a z71 with the aluminum plate. I didn’t remove it. I put a 4x4 block under the pan near the oil filter and bell housing.

if you remove the liner maybe you can remove the mount from the wheel well. The issue from the top tho was getting to the third chassis bolt near the firewall. The angle is really tough unless you’re using more than one swivel.

Yep, we'll be going in from the wheel well, liner is out as are the control arms.
 

Just Fishing

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Empty like my dreams of a fun spring/early summer.

upload_2021-5-4_17-0-24.png




:okay2:
 

Just Fishing

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Machine shop told me "I'll try and get it done by Wednesday, and I'll call you when done"

I of course heard: "so I'll call you on Thursday right?"

Otherwise, I'm doing the every other day I need call them.

working on the 4th week now, when i was quoted a max of two weeks.




:okay2:
 

Just Fishing

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Oh and i took a 50 cal rifle brush to the oil passage ways.

Found white floofs.
You know, cotton trees @%^$!!$^

:yuno:
 

Rocket Man

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Also doing thinking today...
My radiator.
original i believe.
probably fine.

But i really never did figure out the cause of the sparkles...

:hmmm2:


ugg
:yaoface2:

staring at a cold case radiator right now...
I might just block off the oil cooler passage way for now.
Why block it off? Just use a can of transmission cooler flush and blow that stuff out of it. The factory oil and transmission coolers are separate from the rest of the radiator unless they’re leaking internal of the radiator. Or are you thinking the radiator oil cooler might be the cause of the sparkles?
 

Rocket Man

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Just Fishing

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Why block it off? Just use a can of transmission cooler flush and blow that stuff out of it. The factory oil and transmission coolers are separate from the rest of the radiator unless they’re leaking internal of the radiator. Or are you thinking the radiator oil cooler might be the cause of the sparkles?

Always the chance.
I doubt it since i never saw milky, or signs of oil in the coolant
 

Just Fishing

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I remembered that when I replaced my radiator with an OEM one I dissected the one I removed. This was at 150k and I was doing preventative maintenance. The old one wasn’t leaking. There’s pics of the internal coolers in my build thread. Not sure what they made of but they’re ferrous. Were the sparkly bits ferrous?
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ali-build-thread-aka-the-beast.83457/page-247

Sparkles were a copper/ brassy color mixed with silver glitter.

Almost like the cam bearings...

Sorta looks like the oil cooler, not very magnetic, but some of it was.
 

iamdub

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osidesurfer365

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Anyone upgrade the factory rear flip down monitor to a larger one? Want to retain factory audio and video. Looking for any suggestions.


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Just Fishing

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Great idea on the magnet in the end of the plug!!
I never thought of drilling the plug out to fix my drain plug.
:beer:

Just to add to the idea,
I buy these Samarium Cobalt (SmCo) magnets for use in transmission drain pans, and any other use i can find where i need it to survive in heat.
(and thanks, i was trying to remember "SmCo" as my search term in ebay. i need more!!)

I used to put magnets from old hard drives into my transmission drain pans, but one time i pulled it out for a cleaning.
Found it lost almost all of it's magnetic power.

They are not as powerful as the Neodymium type but they last much longer when exposed to heat.
I'm too lazy to look up specs, but i was surprised to find that most of those type will loose their magnetism under the expected operating temp of engine and transmission fluid.

Totally fine if you expect to replace the magnet every so often.

I would expect that they would retain enough of their magnetism to remain useful, especially when they have a heatsink like an oil plug that can wick heat off via an oil pan.

but if you plan on gluing on the inside of say an oil pan long term: SmCo!

And i was thinking about putting a ring magnet (or 4) on my pickup tube, with a wire attached to it for easy extraction during engine break-in.

But I doubt it will work as smoothly as I would like. :jester:


And i ordered this to stick on the bottom of my oil filter, just for break-in tho. :D
500LBS Pulling Force Round Double Sided Fishing Magnet Super Strong Neodymium US | eBay

I'm sure it's going to make my life a living hell, but what the heck!
I'm expecting it to find anything magnetic and get stuck to that instead, and probably make my finger black and blue.
:yaoface2:


It also might offer some entertainment with my boat this year.
Free fishing lures!
Or maybe, an expensive magnet lost!
:okay2:


:hmmm2:
 

iamdub

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Great idea on the magnet in the end of the plug!!
I never thought of drilling the plug out to fix my drain plug.
:beer:

Just to add to the idea,
I buy these Samarium Cobalt (SmCo) magnets for use in transmission drain pans, and any other use i can find where i need it to survive in heat.
(and thanks, i was trying to remember "SmCo" as my search term in ebay. i need more!!)

I used to put magnets from old hard drives into my transmission drain pans, but one time i pulled it out for a cleaning.
Found it lost almost all of it's magnetic power.

They are not as powerful as the Neodymium type but they last much longer when exposed to heat.
I'm too lazy to look up specs, but i was surprised to find that most of those type will loose their magnetism under the expected operating temp of engine and transmission fluid.

Totally fine if you expect to replace the magnet every so often.

I would expect that they would retain enough of their magnetism to remain useful, especially when they have a heatsink like an oil plug that can wick heat off via an oil pan.

but if you plan on gluing on the inside of say an oil pan long term: SmCo!

And i was thinking about putting a ring magnet (or 4) on my pickup tube, with a wire attached to it for easy extraction during engine break-in.

But I doubt it will work as smoothly as I would like. :jester:


And i ordered this to stick on the bottom of my oil filter, just for break-in tho. :D
500LBS Pulling Force Round Double Sided Fishing Magnet Super Strong Neodymium US | eBay

I'm sure it's going to make my life a living hell, but what the heck!
I'm expecting it to find anything magnetic and get stuck to that instead, and probably make my finger black and blue.
:yaoface2:


It also might offer some entertainment with my boat this year.
Free fishing lures!
Or maybe, an expensive magnet lost!
:okay2:


:hmmm2:

I just replied in your build thread. I never once considered temperature affecting the magnetism. I just assumed the engine oil never reached a temperature that'd affect it. I was wrong. Oh well. I'll know in about 10 months how they hold up!
 

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