Best budget upgrades on a 5.3L rebuild?

[iamdub]

I get that... I don't know that anyone local is going to give me a "better" rebuilt engine than a national company with a long track record? Yes, this is a big project, and if I'm committing to keeping the truck another 3-5 years or more, this is a good investment, I'd think?

Considering the cost of vehicles now and that the devil you know is better than the devil you don't- I'd think so. A warranty is huge when it comes to this type of investment.

It's an evolving situation - but I was hoping to get the swap for under a grand and the rebuild for under a grand. It looks like that's unrealistic in my local market. These guys are local part-time guys who do rebuilds regularly and are quoting higher number than I'd hoped. The one shop with supposedly a great reputation I got a real and solid quote from was about $3700 tax included (with my exchange) out the door and that guy acted like he'd never heard of a problem with the 706 heads - not too confidence-inspiring, if you ask me, from a professional full-time rebuilder. Adding another grand-plus to that and I could get a major national brand rebuilt motor and trans, installed.

I agree with all the above. All said and done for $2,000 is 'good' used engine and install labor range. Nothing for the trans. But, chances are, you'd just have another stock engine with ~150K and Castech heads.

Am I being unrealistic? Silly? Stupid? I don't know, that's why I'm coming here for advice, too. Warranty and turnaround don't trump all, but they are factors in a truck that has been sitting 3 months, with family vacation season coming up. In just over 8 weeks I have a 10-day trip to New Mexico planned driving around to Santa Fe and Four Corners, etc. If I have to rent a vehicle for that, it's gonna cost me probably an additional $1200-1500. That would suck major balls if my truck weren't ready by then.


<edit> The 285 HP Scoggin-Dickey reman LM7 mentioned in another thread is $4560.59.

I didn't mean to sound like you were doing anything wrong- you're not. You just shifted the entire train of thought is all. Honestly, reliability and a sound warranty should be priority. I doubt you'll find anyone from a nationally accredited rebuilder willing to warranty an engine modified for performance. It'd definitely be fun to throw in some upgrades "while you're in there". But, sometimes you just gotta make adult decisions.

 

[iamdub]

I'm not overly worried about more power. I don't EVER put my foot to the floor, and it's rare I put my foot IN it. Seriously, it's not a hotrod machine to me, it'll drink gas like an alcoholic and I've got a 370Z for my "I wanna have fun driving" days.

Do I NEED to get a whole rebuild or replacement? No, I don't, but I really don't feel comfortable with a top-half rebuild and a 275k lower end and transmission. Not in a vehicle I'm going to be doing family vacations 1000 miles or more from home. Maybe it's silly, I don't know, but it's just a comfort level thing for me. For this vehicle, reliability and comfort is much more important than performance.

Guy just trailered it off... he's gonna talk to his rebuilder and get a 'ballpark' for the rebuild. My main concern with the LM7 swapout (this is an L59) is a tiny bit of loss in power. Not much, but ~20HP might very well make it feel a bit anemic - especially since I have 3 alternators which already will sap a bit of power. I think the transmission rebuild for a grand is probably fine, don't need to spend $1600 on a factory reman - the warranty is one thing, but honestly, if something like the motor or trans is gonna crater, I'd expect it in the first few thousand miles or month or three.

The LM7 and L59 long blocks are identical- same heads, same cam, same compression ratio, etc. The only difference in the two is yours is FlexFuel. Just keep your intake manifold and use it on the LM7. I doubt any rebuild you get is gonna include a manifold, anyway. E85 is where the extra power rating comes from. But, unless you're currently running E85, you're not getting that extra power so you should be at LM7 levels, anyway. Even still, on E85, it's only like 10HP.

 

[tRidiot]

That's good to know. My guy is gonna check the rebuilder's estimate and of course boring out the block something like 30 over and new pistons, I might end up with a few extra ponies, which isn't bad, in and of itself.

Or if I go with the pro rebuilt, throw on a better air intake, maybe do some exhaust while I'm at it, can't hurt. Maybe some Flowmasters or something, open up the exhaust, end up with a little better sound, too.

Guess I'm just talking my way through the options. But I'm really uncomfortable with the idea of just rebuilding the top half only.

 

[fasteddy]

I'm not overly worried about more power. I don't EVER put my foot to the floor, and it's rare I put my foot IN it. Seriously, it's not a hotrod machine to me, it'll drink gas like an alcoholic and I've got a 370Z for my "I wanna have fun driving" days.

Do I NEED to get a whole rebuild or replacement? No, I don't, but I really don't feel comfortable with a top-half rebuild and a 275k lower end and transmission. Not in a vehicle I'm going to be doing family vacations 1000 miles or more from home. Maybe it's silly, I don't know, but it's just a comfort level thing for me. For this vehicle, reliability and comfort is much more important than performance.

Guy just trailered it off... he's gonna talk to his rebuilder and get a 'ballpark' for the rebuild. My main concern with the LM7 swapout (this is an L59) is a tiny bit of loss in power. Not much, but ~20HP might very well make it feel a bit anemic - especially since I have 3 alternators which already will sap a bit of power. I think the transmission rebuild for a grand is probably fine, don't need to spend $1600 on a factory reman - the warranty is one thing, but honestly, if something like the motor or trans is gonna crater, I'd expect it in the first few thousand miles or month or three.

OK....
Well now your communicating.
Usage and requirements are important.

Current state is very high mileage
You have 3 alternators? Please post picture of that. Is that for aux batteries somewhere like in a trailer? Towing a trailer on vacations would be a requirement.
Does not have to be a hot rod
Needs to be Ultra-Reliable for long distance family vacations (Or fun will turn to grief)
Have an short window before family vacation

You requirements KINDA POINT to stock 5.3 except for the unknown requirement of 3 alternators? On same belt? That does suck power. Maybe pointing 6.0.
I would suggest asking your buddy how soon the rebuilder can deliver and how long for the install
-engine R&R is 3 days, working fulltime slowly. Engine Rebuild is like 2 days when parts are ready....Shit goes wrong here all time.
-Trans is two days including rebuild
You should allow 2 weeks for testing and refinements.

Call autozone and ask when is the soonest they can deliver 5.3 or 6.0.
There has been a nationwide shortage of 6.0s BTW so that may nix that when autozone says 4 months or unknown.
But if it 5 days and $2088 then 3 days for install, there's not really a decision is there. Especially when autozone gives a 4 year warranty.
Plug and Play!
Stay Simple!


370Z? Very Cool ..... NISMO?
Does it look like this?
I have too many cars but Zs handle like a gocart....not very fast but handling is XLNT and it pretty.

 

[fasteddy]

OK
I called my local autozone LOL
Lead time on either engine is 2 weeks.
He said that was fairly consistent

Can pick up at local store or they will deliver it for FREE...OMG making it harder to say no.
$10 off coupon if you order it now. LOL

BTW....I had a reputable builder build a 6.0/with CNC Ported LS3 heads and big cam for a camaro.
He said 1 week.....it turned into 2 months.....Geez
Buying complete is best....plug and play.

 

[tRidiot]

You have 3 alternators? Please post picture of that. Is that for aux batteries somewhere like in a trailer? Towing a trailer on vacations would be a requirement.

You requirements KINDA POINT to stock 5.3 except for the unknown requirement of 3 alternators? On same belt? That does suck power. Maybe pointing 6.0.
I would suggest asking your buddy how soon the rebuilder can deliver and how long for the install
-engine R&R is 3 days, working fulltime slowly. Engine Rebuild is like 2 days when parts are ready....Shit goes wrong here all time.
-Trans is two days including rebuild
You should allow 2 weeks for testing and refinements.

Those were the questions I posed to him this evening. Hope to hear back soon.

Call autozone and ask when is the soonest they can deliver 5.3 or 6.0.
There has been a nationwide shortage of 6.0s BTW so that may nix that when autozone says 4 months or unknown.
But if it 5 days and $2088 then 3 days for install, there's not really a decision is there. Especially when autozone gives a 4 year warranty.

I went in last evening, they told me 3-4 days for the 5.3L.
I would count on a week.

370Z? Very Cool ..... NISMO?
Does it look like this?
I have too many cars but Zs handle like a gocart....not very fast but handling is XLNT and it pretty.

Mine is the Sport, a few little upgrades, but no major power.

I put most of my "upgrades" here:

 

[iamdub]

That's good to know. My guy is gonna check the rebuilder's estimate and of course boring out the block something like 30 over and new pistons, I might end up with a few extra ponies, which isn't bad, in and of itself.

Or if I go with the pro rebuilt, throw on a better air intake, maybe do some exhaust while I'm at it, can't hurt. Maybe some Flowmasters or something, open up the exhaust, end up with a little better sound, too.

Guess I'm just talking my way through the options. But I'm really uncomfortable with the idea of just rebuilding the top half only.

If you do end up rebuilding and get it bored, even if just a clean-up bore to get fresh metal, you may as well bore it to 5.7 and make it an iron LS1. Stock replacement pistons are cheap, so keeping it to OEM sizes benefits you here. You'll have a little more torque from the extra displacement. Just know that it won't be optimal until you get a custom tune. Pretty much anything you do beyond stock (other than bolt-ons) will require aa custom tune, and that's an easy $500 extra expense. Also, I've never heard of a machine shop having something ready when they estimate it will be, unless you pay them something ridiculous to move you to the front of the line.

 

[fasteddy]

If you do end up rebuilding and get it bored, even if just a clean-up bore to get fresh metal, you may as well bore it to 5.7 and make it an iron LS1.

I agree with that especially since you're dragging extra alternators and maybe a few hundred pounds in audio equipment. Geez, that looked like serious power. Maybe you fried the head from all that power wash LOL.
And if you go the rebuild route on 5.7, ask em for a set of 243 heads, then you'll kinda have an LS6 engine.

BTW according to Autozone 5.3 description details the lower priced engines come with the infamous 706 heads.

I still think you should go 6.0. The Tahoe is a big heavy vehicle and it needs the torque. I've had 6.0s like in an escalade that got better gas mileage than the 5.3.
Because of the torque differential you're just lighter on the throttle under normal driving conditions. And with the 6.0, the standard head is the 317 which is a good strong head.

 

[tRidiot]

I agree with that especially since you're dragging extra alternators and maybe a few hundred pounds in audio equipment. Geez, that looked like serious power. Maybe you fried the head from all that power wash LOL.
And if you go the rebuild route on 5.7, ask em for a set of 243 heads, then you'll kinda have an LS6 engine.

BTW according to Autozone 5.3 description details the lower priced engines come with the infamous 706 heads.

I still think you should go 6.0. The Tahoe is a big heavy vehicle and it needs the torque. I've had 6.0s like in an escalade that got better gas mileage than the 5.3.
Because of the torque differential you're just lighter on the throttle under normal driving conditions. And with the 6.0, the standard head is the 317 which is a good strong head.

If I go with the 6.0 from AutoZone, I'm assuming it won't be warrantied, since it's not matching OEM - we all know it's BS, but my VIN wasn't offered with a 6.0L. In fact, AutoZone's description says "Silverado SS only," I think.

Again... not a terrible thing.

As for boring my block to a 5.7, I'm not sure what that means, honestly, how do I tell the rebuilder that? And I would definitely need new pistons, new cam, too? Definitely a new tune, etc.? I don't know how to go about that. I mean I'm not even in touch with the guy who would be doing the rebuilding, he's 60 miles away, the guy doing my pull & replace would be the one talking to him about it.

I wanted to do the LQ9 6.0L anyways, I was looking at them on Ebay and from my understanding it's a direct drop-in, bolts right up, same external everything. So it's BS the warranty would be void, I think.

<edit> 243 are the same as 799 and are from the L33 engine, right?

Looking at Ebay, a good set of those would run like $500-700 probably, I think.

<edit2> In addition I just thought, part of the problem with doing a 6.0 swap was that I would need a new computer, I think, right? None of the Ebay motors I could find came WITH the computer, and I don't know that my computer can be reprogrammed for a 6.0L, can it? I mean I was thinking of sending it off to Black Bear for a reprogram anyways, but can they just upload a 6.0L profile to it?

 

[Mudsport96]

Yes they can tune for the 6.0.

 

[Tonyrodz]

If I go with the 6.0 from AutoZone, I'm assuming it won't be warrantied, since it's not matching OEM - we all know it's BS, but my VIN wasn't offered with a 6.0L. In fact, AutoZone's description says "Silverado SS only," I think.

Again... not a terrible thing.

As for boring my block to a 5.7, I'm not sure what that means, honestly, how do I tell the rebuilder that? And I would definitely need new pistons, new cam, too? Definitely a new tune, etc.? I don't know how to go about that. I mean I'm not even in touch with the guy who would be doing the rebuilding, he's 60 miles away, the guy doing my pull & replace would be the one talking to him about it.

I wanted to do the LQ9 6.0L anyways, I was looking at them on Ebay and from my understanding it's a direct drop-in, bolts right up, same external everything. So it's BS the warranty would be void, I think.

<edit> 243 are the same as 799 and are from the L33 engine, right?

Looking at Ebay, a good set of those would run like $500-700 probably, I think.

<edit2> In addition I just thought, part of the problem with doing a 6.0 swap was that I would need a new computer, I think, right? None of the Ebay motors I could find came WITH the computer, and I don't know that my computer can be reprogrammed for a 6.0L, can it? I mean I was thinking of sending it off to Black Bear for a reprogram anyways, but can they just upload a 6.0L profile to it?

This is the route I went with my 03 Tahoe-- Lq9, cammed with dual beehive springs, long tubes and a 3000 stall. I'm on my 2nd motor, but same exact specs as this.

1st motor went because 0 oil pressure, but my oil pressure sensor was bad, so I didn't know til it was too late. Running on my stock pcm--original motor was 4.8. She runs like a beast. Btw I'm running the stock 317 heads.

 

[fasteddy]

This is the route I went with my 03 Tahoe-- Lq9, cammed with dual beehive springs Btw I'm running the stock 317 heads.

Nice...Holiday Cam Kit Special....LOL

What were your power numbers after the tune? Do you have a PIC of the dyno run from the final tune?

 

[Tonyrodz]

Nice...Holiday Cam Kit Special....LOL

What were your power numbers after the tune? Do you have a PIC of the dyno run from the final tune?

Nope. Guy was an A1 a$$hole, so I didn't get what I was supposed to. No idea what the numbers are, but it's got some balls to it.

Smoking the 22's. Of course after the motor work I had to upgrade the trans. Listen to those shifts.

 

[fasteddy]

If I go with the 6.0 from AutoZone, I'm assuming it won't be warrantied, since it's not matching OEM - we all know it's BS, but my VIN wasn't offered with a 6.0L. In fact, AutoZone's description says "Silverado SS only," I think.


<edit2> In addition I just thought, part of the problem with doing a 6.0 swap was that I would need a new computer, I think, right? None of the Ebay motors I could find came WITH the computer, and I don't know that my computer can be reprogrammed for a 6.0L, can it? I mean I was thinking of sending it off to Black Bear for a reprogram anyways, but can they just upload a 6.0L profile to it?

I would just give them the VIN of any 2003-06 sub 2500 6.0, but that's just me. I don't think they send VIN police out to check.

On a 6.0 you don't need a new computer, runs the same computer. Same fuel system, same injectors, same intake. Plug and Play.
If you buy HP Tuners you can download a stock 6.0 tune from their library for FREE. Free is good.

BTW Where is the third alternator? down below somewhere? .....I think alternators suck 5-10hp per unit.

 

[fasteddy]

Nope. Guy was an A1 a$$hole, so I didn't get what I was supposed to. No idea what the numbers are, but it's got some balls to it..

Gee, Not a very nice holiday special, Bad Santa.
How do you know your tune is good?
Maybe you want to take it to a dyno day somewhere and check the numbers....especially the AFR. Do they have those in Jersey? Dyno Days?
Sounds healthy.

6.0L's rule!

 

[Tonyrodz]

Gee, Not a very nice holiday special, Bad Santa.
How do you know your tune is good?
Maybe you want to take it to a dyno day somewhere and check the numbers....especially the AFR. Do they have those in Jersey? Dyno Days?
Sounds healthy.

6.0L's rule!

As soon as I update my BB tuner(bought it used off tyf)I'm gonna send the tune to them and get it tweaked. I know there's room for improvement on it. Runs good but I know it can run better. I'm pretty sure places in Jersey have dyno days, but honestly I don't want to be around the morons that visit those places.

 

[tRidiot]

Third alt is down below, yes. Right now the third alt is a dummy, essentially - it's not hooked up, just there as a placeholder for the belt. My electrical system is totally stock with the 145A alt for the truck and batt, then the stereo system runs off the 300A Ohio Generator alt in the #2 position with an Odyssey AGM battery on the pass side of the engine compartment. If I delete my factory airbox and go with a downtube for air intake, I may put a 3rd battery in that spot.

I still LIKE the idea of a 6.0L - but I called AutoZone, they did confirm my warranty would likely not be valid if not installed by an ASE Certified mechanic. So that isn't going to be much of a factor, anyways (warranty). I'm not going to lie to them about things, that's just not my style. But if I get a 6.0L somewhere in good shape, or have mine bored out or whatever... that's not so bad.

 

[fasteddy]

As soon as I update my BB tuner(bought it used off tyf)I'm gonna send the tune to them and get it tweaked. I know there's room for improvement on it. Runs good but I know it can run better. I'm pretty sure places in Jersey have dyno days, but honestly I don't want to be around the morons that visit those places.

I was just trying to give you cheap way of getting a printout and an AFR reading....
Out west here is usually 2 pulls for $25 bucks as opposed to individual schedule which is $200 for a few pulls.

You should get some of these
Then the Raptors will tremble...LOL

 

[fasteddy]

Third alt is down below, yes. Right now the third alt is a dummy, essentially - it's not hooked up, just there as a placeholder for the belt. My electrical system is totally stock with the 145A alt for the truck and batt, then the stereo system runs off the 300A Ohio Generator alt in the #2 position with an Odyssey AGM battery on the pass side of the engine compartment. If I delete my factory airbox and go with a downtube for air intake, I may put a 3rd battery in that spot.

I still LIKE the idea of a 6.0L - but I called AutoZone, they did confirm my warranty would likely not be valid if not installed by an ASE Certified mechanic. So that isn't going to be much of a factor, anyways (warranty). I'm not going to lie to them about things, that's just not my style. But if I get a 6.0L somewhere in good shape, or have mine bored out or whatever... that's not so bad.

OMG...I knew I was going to have the read this
Surefire Warranty.....There is NO condition of the warranty stipulating that install has to be performed by any skill type of mechanic.
There is a provision for claims in case of break down requiring repairs have to be done by a "licensed mechanic"
Max claim amount is $800.
Otherwise you bring it back and they replace.....
But there are many exclusions in the warranty...of course right?

I don't know how to attach a file but you can review in the description of the item on the web. Its the Surefire warranty. 4 pages long.

 

[tRidiot]

Ok, well that's good to know. I can look at it, but ultimately, I never 'count' on any warranty. I want a good product, then hopefully I never need the warranty.