Sparksalot
Elite Member
Doh! I forgot that was a separate warning.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I got all sorts of lights when i touched my throttle body butterfly for cleaning.
Gave me service traction, i don't recall if the abs came on as well.
re-learn via the tech 2 and i was gtg.
ETA: wait i also did a DOD delete, but didn't disable the sensor codes.
It might have been related.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I keep going back and forth.
Option 1: When i pull the pan, pull bearing caps to see if bearings are failing
If yes, see if it's possible to just "roll" the bearing into position to get me on my way.
Option 2: Suck it up, pull the fkn engine and rebuild it.
While engine is out, do the fkn converter before it blows up and takes out the trans.
Ugg!
I want the easy way out, but i also just want this fkn thing to work so i don't have to mess with it any longer.
I think it's time to pick up a engine hoist, engine stand, and suck it up.
Did a basic ballpark pricing, looking at something like $400-$500 for pistons, rings, crank bearings, rod bearings, and new bolts.
Not including gaskets and stuff.
I won't need everything, and i think the intake gaskets are reusable (since i replaced them back in Dec or Jan), and i already did the heads.
So just a new head gasket, front and rear cover gaskets, and rear main seal...
Machining might be what $300-$400 to have it bored/honed?
Option 1: When i pull the pan, pull bearing caps to see if bearings are failing
If yes, see if it's possible to just "roll" the bearing into position to get me on my way.
Option 2: Suck it up, pull the fkn engine and rebuild it.
While engine is out, do the fkn converter before it blows up and takes out the trans.
Ugg!
I want the easy way out, but i also just want this fkn thing to work so i don't have to mess with it any longer.
I think it's time to pick up a engine hoist, engine stand, and suck it up.
Did a basic ballpark pricing, looking at something like $400-$500 for pistons, rings, crank bearings, rod bearings, and new bolts.
Not including gaskets and stuff.
I won't need everything, and i think the intake gaskets are reusable (since i replaced them back in Dec or Jan), and i already did the heads.
So just a new head gasket, front and rear cover gaskets, and rear main seal...
Machining might be what $300-$400 to have it bored/honed?
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
It doesn’t matter. Black lines matter!! I try to leave em wherever I go!One issue with that frame of mind, you don't know if I'm full of shit.
My one bad neighbor tells people how bad I am, and what a victim he is.
and in return people then treat me like shit for it, drive real slow in front of my house after visiting him etc.
Something i realized after i took the side of my sister in law one night, with out even knowing the whole story.
However, i appreciate it.
Eta: well i can show you the footage, and i recorded the conversation i had with the guy afterwards.
I can also proove i took the pew off before i walked over to chat with him.
So i retract my statement.
Just something to keep in mind.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Found the other end of my dangling pigtail. One of the fans. I had noticed the cooling was different since the recall and fan upgrade last year. Darn plug won't stay in, and since it plugs in from the bottom gravity is not my friend. A few well placed auxilliary retainers and all should be good.
iamdub
Full Access Member
"Auxiliary retainers". I'll have to remember this one.
5strmtrp
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2019
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Pssst in my world ZIP TIES!
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Auxiliary retainers sounds more technical. Lol.
avalonandl
Full Access Member
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Auxiliary retainer!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UGSH4
They sell lots of different thicknesses of this stuff.
I love it.
The wifes catch can is installed with this stuff right now...
I found a spot i think, but i might need to pull a bunch of stuff out of the engine bay.
So that's an "after the Tahoe is fixed" chore.
Wrapped it up with insulation to keep it rattling/banging.
Total ghetto/redneck install, but it's solid!!!
gooffeyguy
Tom
Replaced the serpentine and a/c belt, along with the tensioner and idler pulley. Bought it as a kit last month because in cold weather my tensioner/belt makes a funny noise.
The belts actually looked decent, no cracks in the ribs, so I'm keeping them as backups. Who knows when they were replaced last. I bought the vehicle in August 2018 with 105k on it. One owner trade-in on new vehicle at GMC dealership, so they might've replaced them before they put it up for sale.
Took me a while to figure out the Lisle stretch belt tool to get the old belt off and new belt on. I was just going to cut off the old belt, but the numbers stamped on it indicating the length was about 2" longer than the new one, so I wanted to save it in-case the new one didn't fit and I could put the old one back on.
Also replaced the autoride air compressor. Those metal wire clips that secure the air lines are little bitches to get back on the connector if it pops off. I had two of them do that and after spending about 20 mins f*ing with it finally figured out a way that worked well and was able to do the other one in like a minute...lol.
All total took about 2 hours
The belts actually looked decent, no cracks in the ribs, so I'm keeping them as backups. Who knows when they were replaced last. I bought the vehicle in August 2018 with 105k on it. One owner trade-in on new vehicle at GMC dealership, so they might've replaced them before they put it up for sale.
Took me a while to figure out the Lisle stretch belt tool to get the old belt off and new belt on. I was just going to cut off the old belt, but the numbers stamped on it indicating the length was about 2" longer than the new one, so I wanted to save it in-case the new one didn't fit and I could put the old one back on.
Also replaced the autoride air compressor. Those metal wire clips that secure the air lines are little bitches to get back on the connector if it pops off. I had two of them do that and after spending about 20 mins f*ing with it finally figured out a way that worked well and was able to do the other one in like a minute...lol.
All total took about 2 hours
I just replaced all my compressor air lines. I didn’t have a problem with the clips, but getting the new hose connectors to seat was hard. I had to use dish soap. Once the connectors are all the way seated, I just popped the clips on.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Wireless charging dock.
gooffeyguy
Tom
How does it hold the phone while vertical like that?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Perfectly!
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I just rotate the little metal clips out of the groove to remove them, then spin them back into the grooves before reinstalling them.
you sure.. it’s an awfully big piece of plastic carry on patrol to the next thread and thank you
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Its a magnetic charger. I have an iPhone 12 mini in a life-proof case.
I bought this charger but came with a vent clamp. All the balls for these mounts are the same so I picked up these and swapped the stick on base to the charger and mounted it to the side of the head unit. I needed to add a magnet ring to the back of my case so I used one of these on the back of the case. I am powering this setup with this 21w adapter.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I was wondering if it's magnetic or what. Then was wondering how the phone magnetically stuck to it and was still able to charge. Those stick on metal rings answer my question.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Last edited:
gooffeyguy
Tom
Yes, when the clips are on the ends, but when the clip is off, totally out of the slot, it's a bit more difficult.
I still had the factory white plastic clips that slide off, but ended up breaking because of being brittle from age, so I had to attach the metal clips.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
