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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Do you have a part number? There's quite a few to choose from and I don't want to buy the wrong one.
Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread
- Thread starter Tonyrodz
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That’s awesome! Way to go @Scottydoggs!@Scottydoggs came by today to give me a hand with this beyotch. COOL ASS CAMARO--btw. Scott was able to scan my tune with his hp tuners. One of the O2 sensors looked a little "lazy" on the tune. I'd like to go with an AcDelco if the price is right. I googled but got a few different part numbers. Anyone know which would be a correct number? They are a little expensive, so I'd be willing to look at a Denso or NGK--possibly. Anyone have any suggestions? Something affordable. @Dantheman1540 @Rocket Man @915_Tahoe @Doubeleive ?
Oh yeah X2!
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I got this one--
That should be the right one.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
What was the verdict on the tune?
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Everything was pretty much ok, but bank 2 upstream O2 sensor was a little questionable. 1st it looked like it might've been bad, but when warmed up the numbers started moving, but very slowly, then while driving and when getting on it, the numbers were moving ok. So it was lazy. Better to just rule it out and to grab one.
So no smoking gun as to what your problem is?
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Of course not. This ***** ain't giving it up that easy! She makes me work hard for it.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Makes a guy wonder if a compression test would be good. Given what we know about the guy that pit it in. What if a pushrod is long or something causing a valve to hang open? IDK just thinking out loud.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
He used the matching pushrods for the aftermarket cam. I hope internally it's ok.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Thats good. I was just spitballing.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I appreciate that. All good ideas.
Scottydoggs
Full Access Member
that b2 o2 was like dead when cold, ltft were like a -4.5 on b1 and +14 on b2, voltage was very slow on b2 as well. but once driving the ltft started to match, then once back at idle the mismatched trims came back. voltage also picked up and about matched b1. seems like a the heater is dead and the sensor is lazy for sure. just not dead enough to set a code for it.
other then the o2 nothing jumped out at me as bad. no KR or any thing looked out of place. engine actual sounds pretty solid. we never got it to make that sound either.
we did try to read his pcm, but it timed out real fast, didnt want to push our luck and something go wrong, so i just quit. was not going to tell me to much really.
other then the o2 nothing jumped out at me as bad. no KR or any thing looked out of place. engine actual sounds pretty solid. we never got it to make that sound either.
we did try to read his pcm, but it timed out real fast, didnt want to push our luck and something go wrong, so i just quit. was not going to tell me to much really.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Thx Scott. Explained it way better then I ever could've.
So maybe there’s actually no real problem?
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
That's what I'm hoping. This is the 1st real answer I've gotten since this whole bs started.
Scottydoggs
Full Access Member
lets hope the o2 fixes up the fuel trims, and that should make the engine happier id think.
whats funny is his truck is way louder at idle then my SS is. his cam even sounds like its got more chop to it. mines rather mellow sounding but you can feel the engine doing a chop when you sit in the car. then once you get on it, im way louder lol
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Good dude too. I really appreciated his help. Not many people today go out of their way to help a stranger nowadays.
