Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
synthetic blinker fluid and a new canooder valve with get you another 5 to 10 hp
I’ll have to try this!
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synthetic blinker fluid and a new canooder valve with get you another 5 to 10 hp
I just go by the trip computer, either the Garmin or pioneerEh. Little ol' 5.3, small cam and crippling 4L60...
Although, after watching it some more, I guess it does seem to still be climbing half-decently well up to around 117. Maybe I'm expecting a little too much from the brick.
I determined the "wall" to be around 125-130ish. I let off when it looked like the RPM climb stalled around 5,600.
Running the math just for fun:
5,600 RPM engine speed
1:1 Third gear trans ratio
3.73 Diff gear ratio
32" Tire (16" radius)
= 142.9 MPH
I know I wasn't going over the low 130s. Hard numbers don't account for slip in the unlocked torque converter.
Have you still got pictures/diagrams of those handy? This seems like the lowest and easiest solution
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Does that loooooooong and slow WOT RPM climb after 100MPH give y'all anxiety, too?![]()
Yes, it used to be anyway. When I did mine back in ‘14 chevy did me the same dirty way... sold me the filter then I had to source the door. Pretty sure Amazon had just the door and I probably paid 2x the amt but meh, it is wut it was....Is the retrofit door itself available separately? It's not a difficult job to perform. Or, get the whole retrofit kit and you'll have a replacement filter on hand already.
Yes, it used to be anyway. When I did mine back in ‘14 chevy did me the same dirty way... sold me the filter then I had to source the door. Pretty sure Amazon had just the door and I probably paid 2x the amt but meh, it is wut it was....
Can you check that 6+ year-old pile of parts in your garage for that door to get a part number, please?

Here’s the entire kit.Can you check that 6+ year-old pile of parts in your garage for that door to get a part number, please?
Goin through something, took a quick trip to Canada to blow off some steam:
It hasn't blown up yet!
Not today but over the course of the weekend. No pictures because phone was busy playing music Friday night, and put the tip on today so ther is that today [emoji2373].
But the ****** is back on.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
3/4 Drop, Denali 22's and SLP Resonator Delete.
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although driveshaft problems have occurred as reported by other members, the question arises about the ppv's I don't think they use a special driveline and they are usually programmed for almost max speed. I have driven a multitude of miles at max speed and never batted an eye at the driveshaft, tires on the other hand should be speed rated.No scared of driveshaft explosion?
It's steel. Now I'm trying to think of what vehicle I had or at least was under a lot that had an aluminum shaft.
Oh well, I rarely ever visit Mexico and I doubt I'll ever take this rig above the 120s. But I'll be sure my U-joints are of good quality and in top shape regardless.
some are, my Silverado has a big fat ass cigar shaped aluminum one, the one in my Yukon is steelI just checked mine it's rusted to shit and a magnet sticks to it. I thought these were aluminum.
Can you check that 6+ year-old pile of parts in your garage for that door to get a part number, please?
I have been finding that i can source the door and the filter, but i haven't seen a good listing for just the filter.
Also adding the cabin filter was an awesome addition.
now when i go off-road, i don't get dust blowing through the vents.![]()