2011 Tahoe what to look for

[ddann19]

Wanting some advice on what I need to check out on a 2011 Tahoe LTZ before I purchase it. I am looking for advice specific to the 2011 Tahoe LTZ. Don't need general overall used car buying advice. Looking at around 150K miles on it.

What am I going to need to do for maintenance if it has not been done at that 150k miles mark?

When I look at the air ride suspension are there going to be signs or trouble spots to be aware of?

Is there a specific spots I need to really look for seal leaks?

Is one part of these rusting out underneath quicker than another?

Haven't been around a lot of Tahoe's and am not super mechanically inclined, so need to know if what I am looking is pretty typical or a sign of something to stay away from. Hope that makes sense.

 

[wjburken]

Wanting some advice on what I need to check out on a 2011 Tahoe LTZ before I purchase it. I am looking for advice specific to the 2011 Tahoe LTZ. Don't need general overall used car buying advice. Looking at around 150K miles on it.

What am I going to need to do for maintenance if it has not been done at that 150k miles mark?

When I look at the air ride suspension are there going to be signs or trouble spots to be aware of?

Is there a specific spots I need to really look for seal leaks?

Is one part of these rusting out underneath quicker than another?

Haven't been around a lot of Tahoe's and am not super mechanically inclined, so need to know if what I am looking is pretty typical or a sign of something to stay away from. Hope that makes sense.

Welcome to the forum from Iowa.

What part of the country do you live? That will have a large bearing on any kind of rust issues.

As for things to look for:

1) If you end you buying it, I would plan on replacing all the fluids: Oil, Transmission, Power Steering, Brake, Differentials, Transfer case if 4WD, Coolant.

2) Air suspension, listen to see if the air compressor runs for just a short, 3-5 secs, after starting the vehicle. If you don’t hear it run at all, the compressor may be dead. If it runs for an extended period of time, you could have a bad compressor or a leaky air bladder on a shock. I’d budget for replacing both parts, shocks and air compressor. That’s about $600-$700. Arnott AS2708’s are good options for the shocks and Arnott has a good compressor. Front struts are possibly needed as well.

3) Many folks disable AFM either through a disabled device, or a tune.

4) The transmission may be at a point that it will need some service. At the minimum pan drop and a new filter.

5) I’d make sure the 3rd row seats are able to be folded and tumbled and removed and then unfolded. They can sometimes have plastic clips that break and won’t let you unfold the seats.

6) I’d plan on getting new plugs and wires.

I’m on my 4th one of these and have had all these issues and still would not want to drive anything else.

 

[ddann19]

Welcome to the forum from Iowa.

What part of the country do you live? That will have a large bearing on any kind of rust issues.

As for things to look for:

1) If you end you buying it, I would plan on replacing all the fluids: Oil, Transmission, Power Steering, Brake, Differentials, Transfer case if 4WD, Coolant.

2) Air suspension, listen to see if the air compressor runs for just a short, 3-5 secs, after starting the vehicle. If you don’t hear it run at all, the compressor may be dead. If it runs for an extended period of time, you could have a bad compressor or a leaky air bladder on a shock. I’d budget for replacing both parts, shocks and air compressor. That’s about $600-$700. Arnott AS2708’s are good options for the shocks and Arnott has a good compressor. Front struts are possibly needed as well.

3) Many folks disable AFM either through a disabled device, or a tune.

4) The transmission may be at a point that it will need some service. At the minimum pan drop and a new filter.

5) I’d make sure the 3rd row seats are able to be folded and tumbled and removed and then unfolded. They can sometimes have plastic clips that break and won’t let you unfold the seats.

6) I’d plan on getting new plugs and wires.

I’m on my 4th one of these and have had all these issues and still would not want to drive anything else.

Hey thanks!!!! That was exactly the kind of information I needed. I am in midwestern Illinois. What kind of pitch or sound should the compressor make...made compared to like the fuel pump? Thanks for the third row seat info...had not heard that yet.

I'd like the Yukon Denali also....but wife says she does not want the 6.2L, with the thought the fuel economy is worse. I am saying there probably isn't much difference, is that a fair statement?

 

[wjburken]

Hey thanks!!!! That was exactly the kind of information I needed. I am in midwestern Illinois. What kind of pitch or sound should the compressor make...made compared to like the fuel pump? Thanks for the third row seat info...had not heard that yet.

I'd like the Yukon Denali also....but wife says she does not want the 6.2L, with the thought the fuel economy is worse. I am saying there probably isn't much difference, is that a fair statement?

Go for the Denali. My wife loves the 6.2L. In fact, we went to a 5.3 a suburban and my wife made me get another Denali because she hated the 5.3. Not much difference in MPG. It takes a certain amount of energy to move a certain amount of mass down the road. The 6.2L just lets you get to speed faster.

As for the air compressor, it sounds like, well, an air compressor. It is located under the rear drivers side corner and does not sound like a fuel pump unless you fuel pump is in really bad shape.

 

[Doubeleive]

Hey thanks!!!! That was exactly the kind of information I needed. I am in midwestern Illinois. What kind of pitch or sound should the compressor make...made compared to like the fuel pump? Thanks for the third row seat info...had not heard that yet.

I'd like the Yukon Denali also....but wife says she does not want the 6.2L, with the thought the fuel economy is worse. I am saying there probably isn't much difference, is that a fair statement?

you shouldn't hear the fuel pump, the air compressor noise you will hear it is distinct, to hear it just turn the key to run with the drivers door open wait for 1-2 seconds and then it should run for about 3 seconds or so each time time you turn the key to run.
if you like the Denali have her test drive a Denali and a Tahoe there is a seat of the pants difference. mpg is what it is, most of it depends on how far/fast/often you push the right pedal down.

 

[mikeyss]

I'd like the Yukon Denali also....but wife says she does not want the 6.2L, with the thought the fuel economy is worse. I am saying there probably isn't much difference, is that a fair statement?

I used to own a 05 5.3 Tahoe that I eventually got rid of after buying a 09 Tahoe with a 6.2. The 5.3 got around 1mpg less in the city and highway. I would seriously consider a 6.2 in the SUV, especially if you are going to tow anything. If you get a 09 and up 6.2, you can run E85 instead of premium

 

[ddann19]

Welcome to the forum from Iowa.

What part of the country do you live? That will have a large bearing on any kind of rust issues.

As for things to look for:

1) If you end you buying it, I would plan on replacing all the fluids: Oil, Transmission, Power Steering, Brake, Differentials, Transfer case if 4WD, Coolant.

2) Air suspension, listen to see if the air compressor runs for just a short, 3-5 secs, after starting the vehicle. If you don’t hear it run at all, the compressor may be dead. If it runs for an extended period of time, you could have a bad compressor or a leaky air bladder on a shock. I’d budget for replacing both parts, shocks and air compressor. That’s about $600-$700. Arnott AS2708’s are good options for the shocks and Arnott has a good compressor. Front struts are possibly needed as well.

3) Many folks disable AFM either through a disabled device, or a tune.

4) The transmission may be at a point that it will need some service. At the minimum pan drop and a new filter.

5) I’d make sure the 3rd row seats are able to be folded and tumbled and removed and then unfolded. They can sometimes have plastic clips that break and won’t let you unfold the seats.

6) I’d plan on getting new plugs and wires.

I’m on my 4th one of these and have had all these issues and still would not want to drive anything else.

On the active fuel management, how am I going to know if it has been disabled, or tuned? What are the thoughts on disabling it....I would guess tuning it to specific preferences, depending on what you wanted? Is that the train of thought?

 

[GreyStone]

On the active fuel management, how am I going to know if it has been disabled, or tuned? What are the thoughts on disabling it....I would guess tuning it to specific preferences, depending on what you wanted? Is that the train of thought?

There is a plug-in called the Range device that disables AFM - works excellently!

 

[wjburken]

On the active fuel management, how am I going to know if it has been disabled, or tuned? What are the thoughts on disabling it....I would guess tuning it to specific preferences, depending on what you wanted? Is that the train of thought?

When you drive it, there is a “page” on the DIC that shows fuel efficiency and whether the vehicle is in V-8 or V-4 mode. If you see it change to V-4 mode, it is still active.

As @GreyStone mentioned, the Range AFM disabler is very effective.
https://www.amazon.com/Range-Techno...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

 

[ddann19]

Are we thinking its better to disable the afm? I am not necessarily concerned with performance as I am with longevity and maintenance. This will be wifey daily drive, which is about 12 miles round trip. With some in town but mostly on a US highway at 65 mph. Then in extra circular activities for the kids ball games and what not with 60 miles. We generally put about 20k on a vehicle a year.

 

[iamdub]

The 2011 should have the latest updates GM made for the AFM system- updated AFM lifters, updated VLOM, updated valve cover and shield on the relief valve. Still, I recommend disabling it while it's still 'good' to prolong the life of the mechanicals. You won't miss the ~1 MPG loss. You can get the Range plug-in device or, better yet, get a full custom tune to not only disable the AFM, but clean up the messy factory trans and throttle tuning. It'll make it much more responsive and predictable and prolong the trans life. I see such a tune as a longevity measure and the performance increase is a side benefit. Drive easily and you may even get back any fuel mileage lost from disabling AFM or even get better mileage.

As the others said, listen for the compressor at startup. If you don't hear it, it's probably locked up. If it's locked up, it's probably because the air sleeves on the shocks are blown. The blown sleeves are obvious when you look at the rear shocks. If needed, you can repair the system for around $600-$1000. Or, you can delete it/bypass it with standard shocks for a fraction of that.

At 150K miles, you shouldn't have any major oil leaks. At least, nothing wet. Some grime from a very slow leak would be acceptable. But nothing dripping. Points to check are where the engine meets the trans bellhousing. There's a small half-circle notch (about 1/8") at the very bottom where oil would be leaking from if the rear main seal was leaking.

I can't speak much on rust cuz I don't deal with that.

When you go look at it, take pics and post them up to go along with any questions you may have.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

For longevity it’s an absolute must that you disable the AFM. It’s not a matter of if it’s gonna fail, it’s a matter of when.

 

[avalonandl]

If the rear air shocks are original they are blown. The only way to tell is to get it up on a lift and you will see the rubber bags have holes in them. The sleeves on the rear shocks is what i mean.

 

[ddann19]

For longevity it’s an absolute must that you disable the AFM. It’s not a matter of if it’s gonna fail, it’s a matter of when.

If the rear air shocks are original they are blown. The only way to tell is to get it up on a lift and you will see the rubber bags have holes in them. The sleeves on the rear shocks is what i mean.

Is the front and rear both air ride? I am only finding additional information where they are talking about replacing the rear air ride suspension. Does the rear fail sooner or more often?

 

[ddann19]

The 2011 should have the latest updates GM made for the AFM system- updated AFM lifters, updated VLOM, updated valve cover and shield on the relief valve. Still, I recommend disabling it while it's still 'good' to prolong the life of the mechanicals. You won't miss the ~1 MPG loss. You can get the Range plug-in device or, better yet, get a full custom tune to not only disable the AFM, but clean up the messy factory trans and throttle tuning. It'll make it much more responsive and predictable and prolong the trans life. I see such a tune as a longevity measure and the performance increase is a side benefit. Drive easily and you may even get back any fuel mileage lost from disabling AFM or even get better mileage.

As the others said, listen for the compressor at startup. If you don't hear it, it's probably locked up. If it's locked up, it's probably because the air sleeves on the shocks are blown. The blown sleeves are obvious when you look at the rear shocks. If needed, you can repair the system for around $600-$1000. Or, you can delete it/bypass it with standard shocks for a fraction of that.

At 150K miles, you shouldn't have any major oil leaks. At least, nothing wet. Some grime from a very slow leak would be acceptable. But nothing dripping. Points to check are where the engine meets the trans bellhousing. There's a small half-circle notch (about 1/8") at the very bottom where oil would be leaking from if the rear main seal was leaking.

I can't speak much on rust cuz I don't deal with that.

When you go look at it, take pics and post them up to go along with any questions you may have.

thanks i’ll do that. any thoughts on spending a little more to get down in the 100k mike range or save a little and stay up at 150k miles?

Basically, am i going to be needing to do the same work at either if those miles!?

 

[PG01]

A 2012 -14

 

[wjburken]

Is the front and rear both air ride? I am only finding additional information where they are talking about replacing the rear air ride suspension. Does the rear fail sooner or more often?

Only the rear have airbags. It is part of the auto-leveling system. The front and rear have electronically control shocks that adjust to modify the ride based on conditions. You can delete the Auto Ride while keeping the auto-level or delete both.

 

[iamdub]

thanks i’ll do that. any thoughts on spending a little more to get down in the 100k mike range or save a little and stay up at 150k miles?

Basically, am i going to be needing to do the same work at either if those miles!?

It really depends on how well it was maintained. 100K or 150K doesn't mean much on these things. Generally speaking, if all was well maintained and the truck wasn't abused, then the 100K would put you a little ahead as far as expected required maintenance and repairs. But, a 150K unit may be in just as good of condition or better if the owner has already replaced parts. So, you can't just shop by mileage. The electronic/active suspension components seem to fail around 80K on average. The AFM stuff seems to be in the "questionable" zone around 125K-200K, but this is a very generalized statement. The key to keeping the AFM system alive is keeping clean, quality oil. Do NOT go by the Oil Life Monitor. It'd be ideal if you could look under a valve cover of a vehicle you're interested in. That would give you a pretty good idea of how well it was maintained.

 

[Doubeleive]

you can reach up under the rear wheel area and squeeze the rear air shock bladder with your hand _(before you start it) it should be firm like a balloon, if it is blown out it is easy to tell.

 

[Hrocks]

If it's a clean and well maintained vehicle, I would just do your typical used car due diligence. The GMT900 platform was IMO, the best series that GM produced. The 2kXX platform seemingly finally got the bugs worked out now that they're on their last legs. I have a 2010 LTZ that my son's been driving for the past four years and it continues to be great.

Having stated that, the only "problem" areas have been few:

• Rear window defogger connector has plagued this series.
• water can collect in rear doors if weep holes get blocked--remove rubber drain plugs

I honestly can't really think of any AFM issues that seem to be a hot topic, nor any other perplexing problems. Mine has about 120k on it and it still runs and looks fantastic. I very recently bought a tune up kit, just because.