Can someone help with trailer braking?
- Thread starter TahoeLT10
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Thanks. What is year range I am looking for? I am assuming 9th Gen are all good 2000-2006?
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Thanks everyone for your input, public and via DM. Picked up 2008 F250 5.4L gas owned by elderly couple who recently passed away and their son sold it to me. I hope it was a good purchase. Clean in and out for its year. 123k miles for 10k. Well maintenanced as well.
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George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Happy Camping!Thanks everyone for your input, public and via DM. Picked up 2008 F250 5.4L gas owned by elderly couple who recently passed away and their son sold it to me. I hope it was a good purchase. Clean in and out for its year. 123k miles for 10k. Well maintenanced as well.
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I checked and seems that sparkplug issue is still there, but Does issued a bulletin on how to mitigate potential sparkplug damage once removing.
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Ah. Check out this guy. https://www.youtube.com/user/FordTechMakuloco
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Derick
Full Access Member
My mechanic told me the exact opposite. I had a 4.0 V6 explorer and he thats the one you want. Which made no sense to me because I had a crown vic with the 4.6.... But he did have a sport track with the v8 that needed a new motor in his lot so I guess there's that.
Derick
Full Access Member
That suuuuucks.. Damn those 5.4s. My buddy talked me out of doing plugs on his expedition with a 5.4...i can't say I didn't call him a little ***** a few times until i started seeing the truth of those spark plugs..... Shudder.
Ford's 4.0, from what I hear, is great until you have to do tensioners. Then you pretty much have to remove the engine because one chain fits under the rear cover. The 4.6 has everything up front. I, too, had a 1992 Grand Marquis for 22 years. I only sold it because I bought my Trailmanor and needed the space. That 4.6 was truly bullet proof. The only weak points of the newer ones are the tensioners and phasers, not overwhelming to do. I thing your going to like your F250. That doesn't work for us because we need the 3rd row sometimes, and we like to have our camping stuff easily accessible from inside. Too bad they don't make a 3/4 ton Tahoe.
Well boys, I took to a local park today to practice backing up and I have to tell you that you were right. I did not even feel the trailer behind me as I was driving. What a difference. I did get the Tahoe configured with P3 brake controller, air shocks, e-rated tires, and the equalizer hitch just in case as I don't know this truck and we will be traveling 3k miles with two cars (ditching one half way and then picking it back up).
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avalonandl
Full Access Member
Equalizer hitch will help easing the load. Take some time to adjust the P3 and find the best setting. Use 89 octane when towing...it will help.
Derick
Full Access Member
How so? I pulled about 6k a few weeks ago on the 4th weekend, and I generally only use 87...I didnt have any knocking or anything....
You have an anti-knock sensor that retards timing and other adjustments to prevent knock. That's why you didn't get any knocking. 89 octane will allow the computer to make better use of the energy in the 89 octane giving you more power, especially when towing.
Derick
Full Access Member
Interesting...I'll have to give it a shot next time. Though, I dont think anything I've got would really stress this 2500 in any way.
I read this thread all the way through, along with about a dozen others on towing a trailer on this site and others. Y'all are terrific, so if I may humbly ask your thoughts on whether or not to get a WDH for the following scenario:
We picked up a Keystone Springdale 1800BH (21.6' total length, 3200 empty weight, 440 hitch weight, single axle), and will tow it with our 2012 Yukon XL Denali, which has the factory trailer brake controller. I've pulled industrial and cargo trailers for years, so maneuvering and backing is fine, but this is the first travel trailer I've owned. And yes, I'm going to replace the China-made tires that came on the trailer with Goodyear Endurance's, first thing.
With all of that out of the way, here is my question: Should I bother with a weight distribution hitch for such a small trailer? If so, would a cheaper one like this Husky be sufficient? Thanks for any and all input.
Cheers,
Dave
We picked up a Keystone Springdale 1800BH (21.6' total length, 3200 empty weight, 440 hitch weight, single axle), and will tow it with our 2012 Yukon XL Denali, which has the factory trailer brake controller. I've pulled industrial and cargo trailers for years, so maneuvering and backing is fine, but this is the first travel trailer I've owned. And yes, I'm going to replace the China-made tires that came on the trailer with Goodyear Endurance's, first thing.
With all of that out of the way, here is my question: Should I bother with a weight distribution hitch for such a small trailer? If so, would a cheaper one like this Husky be sufficient? Thanks for any and all input.
Cheers,
Dave
It's not so much how big or heavy your trailer is, it's what you will put in it. Remember that dry weight does not usually include propane, the battery, water, filled holding tanks, and all your junk. I think, though, that the Husky you linked may be too stiff for the trailer you are towing. That Husky is designed for a tongue weight of 800-1200 lbs and your tongue weight is only 440 lbs. This Husky might be more appropriate for your trailer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCP368/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
You may also wish consider a WDH with sway control. I was checking out accidents caused by sway and was surprised to see that small trailers could sway cause comparatively large tow vehicles to roll. Presumably, a lot of this sway was probably caused by improper loading.
I tow a Trailmanor which has about the same dry weight, and I use a medium weight Reese WDH. It does make a difference. I was surprised that the first time we towed, even though we were under the GCWR we were over the GAWR for the rear axle. This was primarily because of the way we packed, but I was surprised how easy it was be overweight on the axle. People and stuff adds up!
You may also wish consider a WDH with sway control. I was checking out accidents caused by sway and was surprised to see that small trailers could sway cause comparatively large tow vehicles to roll. Presumably, a lot of this sway was probably caused by improper loading.
I tow a Trailmanor which has about the same dry weight, and I use a medium weight Reese WDH. It does make a difference. I was surprised that the first time we towed, even though we were under the GCWR we were over the GAWR for the rear axle. This was primarily because of the way we packed, but I was surprised how easy it was be overweight on the axle. People and stuff adds up!
Thank you, Larry. Picking up the trailer tomorrow from Camping World and will see what they have on hand for a WDH and sway control. Your comments made me smarter for having that discussion with them, so thank you.
And you're right about the weight adding up. We have probably 200 lbs of camping gear and chairs, and another probably 200 lbs of clothes, food, beer and wine, not to mention a 100 lb harbor freight generator that we'll mount on a rack over the propane tank on the tongue for travel. We'll travel with the water tanks empty and hook up to water at the camp sites whenever possible.
I have an airplane that we also use for camping so I'm pretty good at knowing what things weigh and managing weight and balance, so that'll help.
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