What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[iamdub]

Yesterday: Took it to a friend's birthday/July 4th shindig while running the tank down until the "FUEL RANGE LOW" message came on. As planned, I stopped by the RaceTrac on the way back to get half a tank of E85. Also added 2.5 ounces of 2-stroke oil.

Then, stopped by a few fireworks stands and went home to light up the sky.

 

[Rocket Man]

Haven't driven the dirty girl for a day walked out and saw a little puddle under the bumper in front of the drivers wheel. Took her to the store and noticed "window washer fluid low". Cant see in there.
Is there a hose that could have dry rotted?

Another bit of randomness, my rear speakers used to work but, for the longest time they stopped working all together. That was until I went out and hit a bump, didn't realize my radio was so damn loud haha, scared the chit outta me. I was getting ready to order new speakers because of what others have experienced but now it got me thinking. Is there a connection somewhere that could be loose? If so where the heck is it?

Thanks

Hope everyone had a Happy 4th

The washer fluid reservoir has 2 hoses, for front and rear. You’ll need to pull the wheel and fender liner to check the hoses where they go into the pumps at the reservoir. The rear speakers have at least 2 connections- at the back of the head unit and the amp if you have one plus at the speakers themselves but if both are cutting out it might be the fader in your head unit. Try banging on the dash around the stereo to see if they cut in and out and try moving the fader back and forth. You didn’t specify what your stereo consists of- stock HU or aftermarket, Bose or not etc.

 

[Doubeleive]

sometimes the factory amp can develop a short, as for the washer fluid sometimes the lines crack or a pump motor will crack, you will probably have to take the splash guard off the drivers front wheel well to get a close look or try with a flashlight from underneath.

 

[swathdiver]

due to covid 19 the annual trip to Yerrington was canceled the Indian reservation is on lockdown until July 6th, one Vendor opened but they are 2 hours south of the Reservation effectively making the trip 5.5 hours each way. I still have about 50+ 50gram mortar rounds from the last trip and I bought some cake's and misc stuff from the veterans booth that sell's here in town

View attachment 251522 View attachment 251523

Last night in Lake Worth was glorious! The whole neighborhood was sending bombs into the air and it was beautiful. We left after curfew and was surprised by one, the amount of cars on the road ignoring the curfew and two, all the smoke hanging in the air until we crossed the county line heading home! Never seen that much smoke before, except on a battlefield!

 

[lowh07]

Needs wiper delete. [emoji6].

But looks great man!

I’ve actually been wanting to do that for years... never use it anyways

 

[kbuskill]

Yesterday: Took it to a friend's birthday/July 4th shindig while running the tank down until the "FUEL RANGE LOW" message came on. As planned, I stopped by the RaceTrac on the way back to get half a tank of E85. Also added 2.5 ounces of 2-stroke oil.

Then, stopped by a few fireworks stands and went home to light up the sky.

Ok, I'll bite.... why the two stroke oil???

 

[PG01]

Ok, I'll bite.... why the two stroke oil???

Lube , dub likes lube.....

 

[Doubeleive]

Lube , dub likes lube.....

 

[Tonyrodz]

View attachment 251594

WTF???

 

[Doubeleive]

WTF???

 

[cfmistry]

hmm, I would check your motor mounts and front diff mounts also

So the front diff mounts look solid - not sure how to test them. The motor mount on the other hand, seems like my driver's side is gone. Could that be the source of this strange clunking on acceleration?

 

[Doubeleive]

So the front diff mounts look solid - not sure how to test them. The motor mount on the other hand, seems like my driver's side is gone. Could that be the source of this strange clunking on acceleration?

Yep, to check the front diff mounts I would jack it up so the front wheels are off the ground and then stick a crow bar or pry bar up in there and try to move the diff up & down, the rubber mounts should give a little but be firm. the motor mounts you can check with the hood open (so you can see the engine) and get in with your foot on the brake and put it in drive and give it some gas with the brake applied firmly and the same with it in reverse, the motor will move but you should be able to see if it just slams or has some tension, bad motor mounts are pretty common on the gmt900's the fix is to replace them with the hummer motor mounts which are solid rubber instead of a liquid filled. there is a couple of lengthy threads on here about it.

 

[iamdub]

Ok, I'll bite.... why the two stroke oil???

Two-stroke oil, particularly TC-W3 rated, has been known to clean the fuel system and protect against corrosion from the elevated alcohol content in modern gasolines. It's also a protectant for the hard parts and is used in rotaries for the apex seals, which would be equivalent to our piston rings. Yes, mine is a FlexFuel so the fuel system is designed for alcohol. But running it still satisfies my mind and it's cheap and harmless, especially at the one ounce per five gallon ratio it is used at. I had been running it for a few months before I modded the motor and I might have noticed smoother idling. But I didn't run it long enough nor do I drive it enough to really be able to tell. Surely can't tell anything now with the cam's idle. My cruising MPG on 93 now is better than before I disabled AFM, so I can't compare anything there, either.

 

[cfmistry]

Yep, to check the front diff mounts I would jack it up so the front wheels are off the ground and then stick a crow bar or pry bar up in there and try to move the diff up & down, the rubber mounts should give a little but be firm. the motor mounts you can check with the hood open (so you can see the engine) and get in with your foot on the brake and put it in drive and give it some gas with the brake applied firmly and the same with it in reverse, the motor will move but you should be able to see if it just slams or has some tension, bad motor mounts are pretty common on the gmt900's the fix is to replace them with the hummer motor mounts which are solid rubber instead of a liquid filled. there is a couple of lengthy threads on here about it.

So paying real close attention, the clunk is when I let off the brakes after moderate-hard braking. Before I even touch the accelerator. Makes the engine mounts a less likely source right?

 

[Doubeleive]

So paying real close attention, the clunk is when I let off the brakes after moderate-hard braking. Before I even touch the accelerator. Makes the engine mounts a less likely source right?

Not sure on that one, mine was clunking on acceleration and it turned out to be the front differential mounts

 

[Tonyrodz]

So paying real close attention, the clunk is when I let off the brakes after moderate-hard braking. Before I even touch the accelerator. Makes the engine mounts a less likely source right?

Have you checked your caliper sliding pins? Sounds brake/caliper related to me.

 

[wjburken]

WTF???

x2!

 

[wjburken]

So paying real close attention, the clunk is when I let off the brakes after moderate-hard braking. Before I even touch the accelerator. Makes the engine mounts a less likely source right?

How are your CV joints?

 

[Tonyrodz]

How are your CV joints?

Would that be more like a clicking noise?

 

[wjburken]

Would that be more like a clicking noise?

Usually, but worth checking. Something is going slack and then taking up slack when slowing and going. If the front differential mounts are good, motor mounts are good, and calipers seem to be sliding, I’d be looking at all other parts of the drive train just to be sure.