Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
Im constantly searching Facebook sales and offer up in vegas and southern cal for a set of decent used ones with tires for under 1000.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Im constantly searching Facebook sales and offer up in vegas and southern cal for a set of decent used ones with tires for under 1000.
mikeyss
Full Access Member
Its under output control, then throttle position. You can command it to open at certain percentages. Of course this is with the engine off, lol.
dszx13
Full Access Member
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Nothing new.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Ordered up a belt tensioner and idler pulley. I noted a noise from under the hood that seemed like a whirring or slight squealing. I also noticed there was belt rubber residue on the alternator. Looking at the idler I can see there is what appears to be a groove from the belt. When I messes with the tensioner it seemed wimpy so they are both getting replaced.
tried to hook up resistors for the front led blinkers, that was a fail for the most part the resistors work if the running lights are not on, in the case of the yukons the blinker is also a marker/running light, I tried a variety of different ways which resulted in me blowing a courtesy light fuse (somehow the fuse also runs the front right blinker) and then the front left HID ballast decided it was a great time to develop a bad connection making me think I had somehow screwed the left low beam up at the same time, so after checking every fuse I finally decided to check the ballast for power and found the problem, meanwhile it had decided to continue raining like hell. but I wasn't giving up lol, fixed all that and back to normal hyperflash, I guess I will have to have the bcm programmed after all. The new gas cylinder for the hood arrived and got that put on. Battery's are only charging up to 12.26v that was a hot voltage so I will check it again in the morning and I think I will be making some changes either run a single new charging wire from the alternator to 1 battery or maybe disconnect the voltage monitor for a few days and see if that makes any difference and if not then getting new battery's.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I am not familiar with the Yukon wiring since I don't own one but doesn't it use a dual filament bulb for parking/running lights and turn signal?
If so, why would the parking light (low beam) filament have anything to do with the turn signal (high beam) filament?
It only needs a resistor on the turn signal side of the bulb.
on the yukon the marker light and blinker wires join together, (at the bulb connector) then from there 2 wires lead off to the small corner light, I can single out the blinker wire just fine, however there is just too much power when the marker light is on and the resistor is not strong enough, I could probably make only the small corner light a marker light and keep the larger blinker bulb just a blinker that was about the only combo I didn't try after I blew the fuse and it was raining I just fixed it and put everything back together, I have a spare harness that is already hacked up I may try again when the weather clears up. I don't know if the original incandescent was dual filament or not I still don't think it would make any difference with the voltage on the resistor.
I will have to do some more testing I am assuming the ground is cut for the blinker function but not sure now.
You’re running the resistor from the ground wire to the truck body, right? It shouldn’t matter if you’re adding resistance to one bulb or two or three, if they share the same ground wire then so be it.
on the bulb connector it has 5 wires, blinker/marker/side marker/2 grounds how it is configured inside I don't know, I can get it to work if only the blinker is going, with the marker lights on it wont work.
I tried grounding it to the body didn't make any difference
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
When you say it won't work with the marker lights on... what does it do or not do exactly?
goes back to hyperflashing again.
I kind of expected it to happen given how the harness is weird I could have just made it work as a blinker only but I wouldn't have had any marker lights, i will have to play with it some more I figured when I tried the last combo it was going to blow a fuse and sure enough, lol
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
That makes no sense... something isn't right.
On my truck I ran the resistor between the turn signal positive and negative/ground.
I would be curious to see a wiring diagram for the Yukon.
it starts out as 3 wires blinker/marker/ground, then it goes into the bulb connector and 2 more wires exit to the corner marker for a total of 5
if I connect just the blinker portion it works, until the marker lights are turned on
if i connect the marker and blinker it works until the marker lights turn on
kind of weird
if I connect just the blinker portion it works, until the marker lights are turned on
if i connect the marker and blinker it works until the marker lights turn on
kind of weird
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I wonder if the side marker is in that circuit in series not parallel. When the running lights are on does it flash opposite the turn signal?
BTW what year Yukon?
BTW what year Yukon?
avalonandl
Full Access Member
You need Digital Blinker Fluid....
Derick
Full Access Member
hey yall, remember me?! I got my truck back! (FINALLY)
I took it down to Kentucky for a trans rebuild, and dropped it off on 12/9.....got it back 4/3. Lightening service!!
Ultimately, 3 of the 4 months, I didnt really mind it being down there and taking so long. But I really started NEEDING my truck and starting pressing the mechanic a little harder.
So, just before that time, I asked that ya'll pray to the car gods and sing kumbuyah......and it seems it worked!
Here's what happened;
I found this guy on craigslist, who rebuilt and 'improved' 4L60 and 4L80 transmissions. I talked with him for quite some time, did as much research as I could on him and his shop. He is small, and doesnt have a huge footprint, so there wasn't a lot out there. A lot of my decision was done on trust and hope. Since the trans needed to be torn down to diagnose the exact cause of failure, I wanted it rebuilt because it would already be torn down. He agreed to help work through the insurance/extended warranty and I dropped off the truck.
He got it torn down, and there was no real evidence of any sort of failure outside of the pump failing. Which is why I originally took it to him. The torque converter had let go and there was debris throughout the entire trans. The insurance company, tried as they might, battled the diagnoses. Kept saying it was caused by a shift solenoid. Well, if they do that, the solenoid is an electronic part and thereby the failure would not be covered by warranty. The mechanic basically told them, "listen the customer drove it from Indiana down to [Lexington] Kentucky. It couldn't be a shift solenoid." After about 3 weeks of back and forth, they approved the claim.
We did all the final paperwork, and again after more back and forth, he was paid and the transmission work was completed. For the trans work, I paid $550 out of pocket, insurance paid ~2400, and then I paid $300 for a heavy duty custom torque converter. Not bad! This also included a new external transmission cooler, flushing the entire trans system, new lines, and a new 160 degree tstat.
Because the budget opened quite a bit, I had him work on a variety of other things, since he claimed to be a master mechanic. I had him replace the oil pan gasket and pickup tube oring. He also replaced the fan clutch. With all this new work done, I dont want the motor or trans toasted because of a worn $50 part.
I am an untrusting cynic. Do I KNOW he did all the work he claimed to have.....no. He sent me pics of the transmission torn down and all that......but I have no idea if it was even my transmission. I have to have faith that the work was done as outlined (and paid for). I'm hoping that my cynicism is false in this case.
Overall, it made the return trip home. I've been driving it daily to test it, make sure its not leaking, and it seems pretty good. Trans temp hovers between 120 and 140. Highest was on Saturday on the return trip. 80 mph on the highway in 75 degree and sunny weather, it was at 153. Fingers crossed that she holds, because if it really fails, I'd have no idea how to get it to KY.
I took it down to Kentucky for a trans rebuild, and dropped it off on 12/9.....got it back 4/3. Lightening service!!
Ultimately, 3 of the 4 months, I didnt really mind it being down there and taking so long. But I really started NEEDING my truck and starting pressing the mechanic a little harder.
So, just before that time, I asked that ya'll pray to the car gods and sing kumbuyah......and it seems it worked!
Here's what happened;
I found this guy on craigslist, who rebuilt and 'improved' 4L60 and 4L80 transmissions. I talked with him for quite some time, did as much research as I could on him and his shop. He is small, and doesnt have a huge footprint, so there wasn't a lot out there. A lot of my decision was done on trust and hope. Since the trans needed to be torn down to diagnose the exact cause of failure, I wanted it rebuilt because it would already be torn down. He agreed to help work through the insurance/extended warranty and I dropped off the truck.
He got it torn down, and there was no real evidence of any sort of failure outside of the pump failing. Which is why I originally took it to him. The torque converter had let go and there was debris throughout the entire trans. The insurance company, tried as they might, battled the diagnoses. Kept saying it was caused by a shift solenoid. Well, if they do that, the solenoid is an electronic part and thereby the failure would not be covered by warranty. The mechanic basically told them, "listen the customer drove it from Indiana down to [Lexington] Kentucky. It couldn't be a shift solenoid." After about 3 weeks of back and forth, they approved the claim.
We did all the final paperwork, and again after more back and forth, he was paid and the transmission work was completed. For the trans work, I paid $550 out of pocket, insurance paid ~2400, and then I paid $300 for a heavy duty custom torque converter. Not bad! This also included a new external transmission cooler, flushing the entire trans system, new lines, and a new 160 degree tstat.
Because the budget opened quite a bit, I had him work on a variety of other things, since he claimed to be a master mechanic. I had him replace the oil pan gasket and pickup tube oring. He also replaced the fan clutch. With all this new work done, I dont want the motor or trans toasted because of a worn $50 part.
I am an untrusting cynic. Do I KNOW he did all the work he claimed to have.....no. He sent me pics of the transmission torn down and all that......but I have no idea if it was even my transmission. I have to have faith that the work was done as outlined (and paid for). I'm hoping that my cynicism is false in this case.
Overall, it made the return trip home. I've been driving it daily to test it, make sure its not leaking, and it seems pretty good. Trans temp hovers between 120 and 140. Highest was on Saturday on the return trip. 80 mph on the highway in 75 degree and sunny weather, it was at 153. Fingers crossed that she holds, because if it really fails, I'd have no idea how to get it to KY.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Glad everything seems to have worked out Derick!
Worst case scenario, you could do what I had to do when my trans failed under warranty. Mine was done by Performabuilt in Kentucky and Im in Oregon. I chose them because they have a great reputation building 4l60’s to handle high hp applications- up to 1000hp -and I run a blower on my 6.0. I decided to race a Subaru sTi off the line and it disintegrated shifting into second. (I had him beat lol) I pulled it, removed the bell housing and tail, boxed it up and shipped it to them via UPS. They rebuilt it and shipped it back. They had it 2 days. Shipping took most of a week each way due to the distance (2700 miles) Pretty good service though. Just wanted to mention that it’s possible to ship a trans through UPS if you pack it right. You need to drain it and then double wrap it in plastic. Hope you never have to go through that, sounds like you should be ok.
